Where would you get radiator "necks" ??

[Gary Allan]

More missing links ...

Anyway, my next odd experiment is to "manifold" multiple heat exchangers to the outlet of my engine. Without going into full details, it's obviously NOT the COMMON way that these are used. They typically go on the return/suction/outlet hose of the radiator (read: so save the counter advice = I know exactly what I'm doing

)

My first kink...where can I get the humped inlet/outlet necks? Now I know that most rad repair is a thing of the past, but someone must still provide these items to the trade. These I can solder/braze/cut as needed to make the manifolds.

Now I can use regular "T's" and brass hose barbs ..but this gets expensive (very expensive - and I'm on a very tight budget).

Google only sends me to India or China.

I could run these in series, but that complicates things in other areas.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Chris142]

I work at a radiator shop. We don't have any suppliers for the hose "Bibs". I assume thats what you are looking for. The thing that holds the radiator cap is called the "Neck".

Over the years we have saved bunches of various Bibs and just dig through one of the bucket fulls that we have untill we find one we can use.

Ocasionally we have to get one made. We cut off a piece of Copper pipe and take it to a machine shop down the street that has a machine that will add the rolled edge so that the hose does not blow off.

If you know what size you need I'll dig through our buckets and see what I can find.

 

[Gary Allan]

Thanks for the offer, Chris. I believe that these are 1 3/8+/- ID and about 1 3/4 OD with the "bibs" running just a hair bigger. It had occured to me to play with copper to get this thing made. I would use an expander and then a cone to form the bulge. I can imagine that the learning curve will cost a few cuts (I can practice on plain copper tubing and then braze/solder tees or els together.

However, if you've got 6 of those bibs floating around (tell me how you want the things measured).. hit me via PM and see what we can work out

I could run them inline ..but they would have to be arranged in a series of "switchbacks" and I don't think I can get a tight enough radius out of the hose. With the manifold method, I can just buy shorter or longer flex hoses.

Thanks for the response!

 

[Gary Allan]

Well I'll be ...

Now I really wish this was $29.95 ..

..but @ $400 ..I'll have to just manage without it

 

[Chris142]

Shoot I've been driving around with those things rolling around in my Jeep for 3 days now.

Gary.....We have a slight problem. I'd say that 95% of the hose bibs we have in the buckets are smashed on one end. They do this at the factory before they install them in the tanks.

I don't know if it provides more strength or what.

Have you considered threaded pipe? The threads will prevent the hoses from blowing off.

 

[t-squared]

Check at hrpworld.com...lottsa cool goodies there.

 

[Gary Allan]

I think that I'll go with copper. I may expand the end just a bit ..although with a 16lb system I don't think it's going to be an issue. Aluminum tubing is available, but it's about as expensive (look what hpworld get for it

)..and I can sweat copper easier due to the sweat sleeves.


btw- Chris ..couldn't the bibs be cut beyond the smashed end with a tubing cutter? Would there still be enough to sweat into a joint and have the rolled barb still be "out" enough to fasten the hose properly??

As odd as many of the things that I come up with are conceptually, I like them to be "right" ..no matter how "unright" they are

 

[Chris142]

You may be able to use them. I dunno. Total length before cutting is only about 1.75 inches. Remove about an inch if you cut it.

Wonder if harbor freight sells an inexpensive tool that will make the rolled edge?

 

[Shaman]

Gary, if you are looking for just a bead to keep hose from slipping, why not just find someone with a welder and get some lips put on. Some places even have jigs for this task. If this is not what you are trying to do, my apologies.

 

[Gary Allan]

I think I'll be okay either way. I can have the tubing expanded slightly ..and I think I can form the recurved edge myself. I was just looking for the easy way out

Even without the bead, I really don't think I'll have any issues with a 16lb system. I'll have to do my "endurance/failure testing" before I have any confidence in it either way.

There are alternatives ..but they're expensive. The hot rod sector makes expensive hose ..and has every kind of size adapter that you can think of. It's naturaly the poster item of the "nature's way of saying that you make too much money". I hate to balk at price on most things ..but I don't need any bells and whistles or show quality to this project. As it is ..I get very strange looks when some see my gauges and braided hoses on a minivan.

(visions of julia roberts: "It's all so preta porte")

It just looks too "J.C. Whitney" to them