When to replace an "old" car....

went through the same thing with two daughters going to school but not the distance you mentioned.. one was 300 miles the other was 30.. LOL.. A car you have been wrenching on for years you know inside and out for the most part.. you have done a lot of preventive maintenance for sure.. If you think the CV joints need replacing I would get a good set off rock auto and change them out or take them off and rebuild or have rebuilt. not sure if that is a thing nowadays.. main thing is she gets oil changed when needed if find.. and is checking it as well.. Every time I would speak with the one 300 miles away I would ask, have you check the oil level recently?? they had a hat made and sent to me for birthday some years ago.. LOL.. good luck..
 
Or…you could do what I did. Gave both of mine the current car I was driving (no more than 5 years old) and I kept-drove their old beaters that were used during their high school years. When my wife and I traveled on long trips we took her car. She got a car allowance for work and always had something in warranty. Less worries all the way around.
 
I would ask the question this way - why does a college student need a car?
It depends on how far you live.

I know a lot of local students live not in a commutable by bus apartment both for safety and for cost reason. If she lives close enough to campus then she probably doesn't need a car, but if she lives far away then a beater is safer for a more than 15 mins bike ride on high traffic roads.

These days we have uber also for rides and parking is not free.
 
It depends on how far you live.

I know a lot of local students live not in a commutable by bus apartment both for safety and for cost reason. If she lives close enough to campus then she probably doesn't need a car, but if she lives far away then a beater is safer for a more than 15 mins bike ride on high traffic roads.

These days we have uber also for rides and parking is not free.
Thanks - but, after putting six kids through college - I know how it works.

The OP stated that this was to get her there, not for daily commuting.

If the need was for daily commuting, and she lived off campus, then I would have a set of recommendations for a car.

I provided both of my daughters a car while in Medical school. My oldest needed the car to get from her apartments to the various hospitals in St. Louis. That was a requirement.

For my younger daughter, who lives in a city with excellent public transportation, the car actually serves as a means to get out of the city and go skiing/hiking on the weekends.

Both cars are now a similar distance from me as the OP’s daughter will be from him.

I understand the position in which @STL_G8GT finds himself better than just about anyone.
 
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I don't want to spend your money or presume to know your finances or budget...but it's a major buyer's market right now for Ford Bronco Sports. If you look on cars dot com, there are literally thousands of new 2025 new Bronco Sports across the country, and a bunch can be had under $30k, marked down over $7k...

Food for thought, or maybe someone else can use this info.
 
My son's off at college 150 miles away with a 1999 Camry. It was great until the water pump went out. Kinda my fault, it's recommended with a timing belt but I cheaped out. I towed it home on a dolly and DIY fixed it. Tugged at my emotional heartstrings more than I thought. "Thought" the car was in great shape and it was until it wasn't.

But college cars get ignored, trashed, brakes rusted from non-use, dead batteries, paint issues, flat tires (from rim corrosion). I'd hate to send a "nice" one off if it's not getting driven for a purpose, like an internship.

Agree with the others RE public transportation. College is all about that communal experience.
 
So I'm reaching out for advice here....

Our daughters car is a 2004 rx330, has 180kmiles. New battery, new water pump and timing belt 5k miles ago. It does leak a bit of oil from the bottom of the motor, but no drips. Doesn't burn oil after a b12 treatment and Valvoline Restore and Protect. I used a bit of at205 to stop steering fluid loss. Transmission shifts a bit weird sometimes on the 2-3 - I added some transmissionguard red otherwise it may need shift solenoids (I can do this). All fluid changes up to date. Has new front and rear shocks/struts, and good tires (1yr old). All systems and components functional. It starts right up, runs great.

The bad - it's 23yrs old. Has a bit of vibration at high speeds (still original cv axles - I think most likely culprit). The occasional 2-3 shift lurch. The oil leak/seeps. The ac makes a "whoop" sound sometimes (a failing expansion valve). It does occasionally smoke a bit on startup - I'm assuming valve stem seals.

Here's the issue - she graduated and is going very far away for school. 1800 miles away. If she was going 200 miles away, I wouldn't think twice about it.

We're trying to decide if we need to replace this with something newer and less miles. Considering something like 10k for a 2013 Honda crv with 120k miles. But don't want to replace it just because of nerves about hypothetical situations.

Thoughts?
Let me ask an unusual question. What area of the world is she going to school?

Also, do you know the history of maintenance on the transmission? That's the only thing that concerns me. The rest you can overcome by investing in high quality parts and keeping it on the road.
 
Let me ask an unusual question. What area of the world is she going to school?

Also, do you know the history of maintenance on the transmissionmission? That's the only thing that concerns me. The rest you can overcome by investing in high quality parts and keeping it on the road.
I don't, although I've done a few flush/fills and changed filter. The fluid that came out first time wasn't bad. Only transmission issue is a pretty occasional light throttle 2-3 funkiness.

Oh, and going to florida.
 
My son's off at college 150 miles away with a 1999 Camry. It was great until the water pump went out. Kinda my fault, it's recommended with a timing belt but I cheaped out. I towed it home on a dolly and DIY fixed it. Tugged at my emotional heartstrings more than I thought. "Thought" the car was in great shape and it was until it wasn't.

But college cars get ignored, trashed, brakes rusted from non-use, dead batteries, paint issues, flat tires (from rim corrosion). I'd hate to send a "nice" one off if it's not getting driven for a purpose, like an internship.

Agree with the others RE public transportation. College is all about that communal experience.
Most seasoned Honda / Toyota owners of those era know that they are "recommended" because they don't typically last 2 timing belts, and the labor is the expense not the parts. I remember it was $400 labor for 4 cylinder and $600 labor for 6 cylinder back in the late 90s early 2000s, probably double by now.

I remember using my cars back in college but not for going to classes, just grocery shopping, to and from friends, etc. I do live 1 block from campus so I can bike, but I do have friends who live away from bus lines and in a "house" with friends instead of apartments. They would drive to my neighborhood then take the bus (because parking permit doesn't guarantee a spot). Every town is different you you have to check the place out after some months.
 
I think the RX330 is a great choice.

Just to provide a bit more detail on my first “give a car to a daughter that will be 1,800 miles away” - here is the first car. In 2016, I gave her my 2002 Volvo V70 that had about 165,000 miles on it. I made certain that everything was in good repair. It had a fresh timing belt and water pump. Recent suspension rebuild. New brake hoses with fresh pads and rotors. Rebuilt alternator and starter. New battery. New fluids. New filters. Shown here as I left on the road trip from Virginia Beach to St. Louis. Only 950 miles but a similar logistic effort/concern.


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The car is still on the road. The paint isn’t as glossy, and the leather interior is ripped. But at 230,000 miles, it soldiers on. It drives mostly very short trips to the hospital at odd hours. She takes it in to get serviced every 7,500 miles. She recently asked me how much longer she could keep it.

As long as you like. It’s running well, no major issues.
 
Funny. I did not hear anyone mention the issue of safety if she got in a serious crash. For me that is the main issue. Do you want her in a 2004 model or in a vehicle where survivability rate is much higher?

You have been lucky so far. Fly her there without a car.
 
Funny. I did not hear anyone mention the issue of safety if she got in a serious crash. For me that is the main issue. Do you want her in a 2004 model or in a vehicle where survivability rate is much higher?

You have been lucky so far. Fly her there without a car.
I do appreciate this - I trust the rx330 in a serious crash. It didn't rate as well in headrests, but otherwise it tested very well. It's a good point, however!
 
Most seasoned Honda / Toyota owners of those era know that they are "recommended" because they don't typically last 2 timing belts, and the labor is the expense not the parts. I remember it was $400 labor for 4 cylinder and $600 labor for 6 cylinder back in the late 90s early 2000s, probably double by now.
I'm not in love with the idea of replacing a water pump proactively because in the past I've had some with questionable sealing surfaces on older engines and designs. Volvo "red block" is the worst I've had, with a rubbery hole at 12 o'clock for the t-stat bypass that slides against another surface while it's pulled into the block by its fasteners. Then if it leaks there's a bunch to tear apart.

That said, the genuine Aisin water pump and Toyota engine block went together wonderfully without drama, I would definitely recommend the combo.
 
I'm not in love with the idea of replacing a water pump proactively because in the past I've had some with questionable sealing surfaces on older engines and designs. Volvo "red block" is the worst I've had, with a rubbery hole at 12 o'clock for the t-stat bypass that slides against another surface while it's pulled into the block by its fasteners. Then if it leaks there's a bunch to tear apart.

That said, the genuine Aisin water pump and Toyota engine block went together wonderfully without drama, I would definitely recommend the combo.
Older style 90s Toyota and Honda pump are simple, with a flat mounting surface against each other even a Chinese knock off would not screw it up. I haven't ever heard of so many bad pump stories back then, compare to today even the worst Chinese pump would last till the next timing belt job (60k-90k miles). They were cheap and have a lot of good companies making them too, like GMB, Aisin, Gates, Denso (I think), etc. Just a weep hole leaking if things aren't working instead of grenade with broken plastic impellers or housings.
 
I really appreciate all the advice.

We're going to keep the car. I'm going to give her a monthly list (and set reminders so I ask)... Which really is oil, coolant, power steering fluid levels. I'll change the oil before the drive, then after we get there, so she will be good to go. The radiator is the one with metal end tanks, so I'm feeling relieved on that - and was previously replaced by Lexus in service history. We are driving it together.

I ordered transmission solenoids, new radiator shroud with integral coolant tank, a new dessicant/filter and expansion valve, set the appointment to have the AC looked at next week, new lca's, and I'll give the brakes a once over. *I hate all the noise after the first brands bankruptcy and brake products, I feel like I don't know what to go with for quality at standard pricing.* There's also a harness of vacuum lines that's showing some cracking at the ends and I've already cut it back once, so I'm replacing with new.

Her last car was an 04 pilot that she really loved, but lost it in an accident. When we drove it Florida to Colorado a CV axle went bad. With the little bit of vibration in her rx330, I'm kind of thinking whatever is the cause will show up on this trip. Cv axles from OEM are prohibitively expensive and aftermarket is a crapshoot, so I don't think I want to just swap them yet. I know I'll be in there for the lca's, but oh well.

Thanks again for all of the insight and thoughts. I'll come back to this with the experience in August.
 
Do the CV's feel loose? I thought they were more of a lifetime item, or at least until the lifetime of the boot (if not caught). Just wondering if the vibration is something else, tire, strut, bushing.
 
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