When to replace an "old" car....

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Feb 5, 2024
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So I'm reaching out for advice here....

Our daughters car is a 2004 rx330, has 180kmiles. New battery, new water pump and timing belt 5k miles ago. It does leak a bit of oil from the bottom of the motor, but no drips. Doesn't burn oil after a b12 treatment and Valvoline Restore and Protect. I used a bit of at205 to stop steering fluid loss. Transmission shifts a bit weird sometimes on the 2-3 - I added some transmissionguard red otherwise it may need shift solenoids (I can do this). All fluid changes up to date. Has new front and rear shocks/struts, and good tires (1yr old). All systems and components functional. It starts right up, runs great.

The bad - it's 23yrs old. Has a bit of vibration at high speeds (still original cv axles - I think most likely culprit). The occasional 2-3 shift lurch. The oil leak/seeps. The ac makes a "whoop" sound sometimes (a failing expansion valve). It does occasionally smoke a bit on startup - I'm assuming valve stem seals.

Here's the issue - she graduated and is going very far away for school. 1800 miles away. If she was going 200 miles away, I wouldn't think twice about it.

We're trying to decide if we need to replace this with something newer and less miles. Considering something like 10k for a 2013 Honda crv with 120k miles. But don't want to replace it just because of nerves about hypothetical situations.

Thoughts?
 
I wouldn't replace it with a $10k used car. Is it making it the 1800 mile trip once and then she'll be flying back and forth?

Yes, I doubt this car will come back.

Keep driving it. You'll gain nothing by spending more on something used. It could have far more demons just waiting to surface.

That's kind of what I'm thinking... At least this is the devil we know!

How many miles will she drive anually after she moves?

Gosh, she really drives about 5k a year right now. 2 years she'll be on/near campus. We'll fly her back for holidays. I doubt she'll come back for summer.

I've heard the RX330 was the 1st of the good ones... I think I'd keep it.

It is a solid car. There's no rust to speak of... But the age is what makes me nervous. Maybe wrongly....
 
The problem is she's 1800 miles away and mechanic dad can't maintain it. At 23 YO and 180k miles things will need attention and she'll have to take it to a garage and will need something to drive. Dad won't be there to make sure she doesn't get the young woman wallet flush treatment. Legit concern for dad. Member Macarose just posted about CRVs based on lots of experience. You've got to do what you feel best about not what anonymous interweb experts think.
 
So I'm reaching out for advice here....

Our daughters car is a 2004 rx330, has 180kmiles. New battery, new water pump and timing belt 5k miles ago. It does leak a bit of oil from the bottom of the motor, but no drips. Doesn't burn oil after a b12 treatment and Valvoline Restore and Protect. I used a bit of at205 to stop steering fluid loss. Transmission shifts a bit weird sometimes on the 2-3 - I added some transmissionguard red otherwise it may need shift solenoids (I can do this). All fluid changes up to date. Has new front and rear shocks/struts, and good tires (1yr old). All systems and components functional. It starts right up, runs great.

The bad - it's 23yrs old. Has a bit of vibration at high speeds (still original cv axles - I think most likely culprit). The occasional 2-3 shift lurch. The oil leak/seeps. The ac makes a "whoop" sound sometimes (a failing expansion valve). It does occasionally smoke a bit on startup - I'm assuming valve stem seals.

Here's the issue - she graduated and is going very far away for school. 1800 miles away. If she was going 200 miles away, I wouldn't think twice about it.

We're trying to decide if we need to replace this with something newer and less miles. Considering something like 10k for a 2013 Honda crv with 120k miles. But don't want to replace it just because of nerves about hypothetical situations.

Thoughts?
$2000 of parts and a weekend of DIYing can make this car reliable for the next 4 years.

Oil leak: probably needs valve cover reseal. I would also do the valley plate and knock sensor sub-harness since you're more than halfway there.
Steering leak: High Pressure P/S Line is most common, followed by rack and sometimes pump reseal.
Shift issues: There is a flash available for shift quality on the 2004's

Throw in a pair of cheaper CV axles and a fresh pair of lower control arms.

These cars are extremely well built and can last a long time if you're willing to do the work yourself.
 
The problem is she's 1800 miles away and mechanic dad can't maintain it. At 23 YO and 180k miles things will need attention and she'll have to take it to a garage and will need something to drive. Dad won't be there to make sure she doesn't get the young woman wallet flush treatment. Legit concern for dad. Member Macarose just posted about CRVs based on lots of experience. You've got to do what you feel best about not what anonymous interweb experts think.

Problem is a $10k used car will be in the same situation.

@STL_G8GT you might want to look at shipping the car out, 1,800 is a miserable drive and a lot can happen with a trip that long.
 
If the battery is more than 3 yo, maybe put a new Wakmart MAXX in it, pull the starter and replace clean the comutator and grooves between sections of the comutator, replace the brushes, clean and grease all areas of motion that need it, and it should be good for another 100,000 miles.
 
$2000 of parts and a weekend of DIYing can make this car reliable for the next 4 years.

Oil leak: probably needs valve cover reseal. I would also do the valley plate and knock sensor sub-harness since you're more than halfway there.
Steering leak: High Pressure P/S Line is most common, followed by rack and sometimes pump reseal.
Shift issues: There is a flash available for shift quality on the 2004's

Throw in a pair of cheaper CV axles and a fresh pair of lower control arms.

These cars are extremely well built and can last a long time if you're willing to do the work yourself.
Critic funny enough - I've done the knock sensor sub harness, and removed & resealed the valley plate (coolant) last year. (I think you helped with recommendations at that time for rtv lol.). Replaced that weird coolant hose at that time also. I replaced the PS hoses at the same time and rebuilt the PS pump. :-). Valve covers are resealed as well during the PCV baffle clean out.

I think any oil leaking is from the upper oil pan unfortunately. Iirc there's a rtv gasket for it and it's given up.

The PS leak, if it still exists (I know the hose was leaking, but I also treated with AT 205 at the same time as I replaced the hoses), is the rack. Although I haven't lost fluid since the replace/treatment.

I'll dig deeper in the transmission flash, lcas, and cvs. I'd like to further diagnose the slight vibration under accel/speed, but I'm leaning cv's.
 
If the battery is more than 3 yo, maybe put a new Wakmart MAXX in it, pull the starter and replace clean the comutator and grooves between sections of the comutator, replace the brushes, clean and grease all areas of motion that need it, and it should be good for another 100,000 miles.
Haven't touched starter, but battery is new last winter. Thank you.
 
The problem is she's 1800 miles away and mechanic dad can't maintain it. At 23 YO and 180k miles things will need attention and she'll have to take it to a garage and will need something to drive. Dad won't be there to make sure she doesn't get the young woman wallet flush treatment. Legit concern for dad. Member Macarose just posted about CRVs based on lots of experience. You've got to do what you feel best about not what anonymous interweb experts think.
Yes - worry about no dad mechanic is what's worrying me.
 
Critic funny enough - I've done the knock sensor sub harness, and removed & resealed the valley plate (coolant) last year. (I think you helped with recommendations at that time for rtv lol.). Replaced that weird coolant hose at that time also. I replaced the PS hoses at the same time and rebuilt the PS pump. :-). Valve covers are resealed as well during the PCV baffle clean out.

I think any oil leaking is from the upper oil pan unfortunately. Iirc there's a rtv gasket for it and it's given up.

The PS leak, if it still exists (I know the hose was leaking, but I also treated with AT 205 at the same time as I replaced the hoses), is the rack. Although I haven't lost fluid since the replace/treatment.

I'll dig deeper in the transmission flash, lcas, and cvs. I'd like to further diagnose the slight vibration under accel/speed, but I'm leaning cv's.
Totally forgot about that.

If the passenger side of the rack is leaking and it's a north america VIN, this could be an option: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10133733-9999.pdf
 
Oil leak is the last of your worry, just top off once in a while like once a month.

Axles you can probably just replace them with OEM rebuild if that bothers you so much, even if you treat it as $2000 parts in the worst case. That car is as close to bullet proof as possible within reason. I do not know how easy it is to roll over but these days you assume they are not worse than most CUV out there. MPG would be a concern if she drives a lot.

I would say if you want to buy her a newer car something better than 10k at least, like a used Camry that is still under warranty or a new one if on sale. A 2003 RX 330 is pretty hard to beat in reliability with only $10k.
 
My laundry list for renewing a good high mileage vehicle is fairly long.

Sparkplugs ( Rock Auto double iridium ngk and use a torque wrench to tighten them ). Waterpump, thermostat, hoses and coolant. ( Do not flush with chemicals or even water, that introduces ions that cause rust. Just drain and fil. ) Tensioner and Serpentine, brake fluid if it is too old. ( I perfer Bosch Extended Service Interval ESI - 6 youl need 2 quarts. Amazon sells it. Trany fluid and filter. Clean where battry gnd. ( - ) wire mounts to the frame and treat with something that prevents corrosion at that junction. And when I really want reliability, I also replace O2 sensors, engine coolant temperature sensors, and knock sensor.
 
I payed for a subscription to an auto club (AMA here in Alberta), when our daughter left for college. That would be AAA or Good Sam’s in the U.S.?
Our daughter did use it a couple of times (locked keys in car, battery boost) and it was a bit of peace of mind for me.
I would keep the old car you know, unless you can upgrade years/miles significantly (by a least half) with the next car.
 
When our daughter in Wisconsin was pregnant with her second baby, while visiting, she mentioned they needed to replace her old car. This was during Covid and we offered to give her our 2018 CR-V with 40k miles. She and her husband wanted to buy a used car on their own, but once they started pricing used vehicles, said they'd accept the CR-V. We had a 2020 Ram 1500 as our second vehicle and both worked from home, so wasn't in a rush to replace the CR-V, but eventually bought a new car for ourselves.

Do you own a car which you have confidence in that she can have? You can drive the RX330 until you find something for yourselves. It gave us great piece of mind knowing she was in a car which was reliable.
 
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