When They Say Put Moly On the Lifters

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In my overhaul textbook it says to put MOLY on the new lifters on re-assembly.

Are they talking about Lithium EP Moly Grease in the tube? Like the Walmart Supertech stuff?

I've also seen a very expensive product from Jetlube called MOLY PASTE, it comes in a small anti-seize looking bottle.
 
I know that Redline and others make a specific break-in lube for camshafts that would likely work fine. Probably has moly, but I don't know for sure.

Personally, I think that all the superstition surrounding flat-tappet break-in is nonsense... unless you're dealing with a high-lift camshaft and requisite tight valve springs.

In your situation, I'd just put oil on them and leave it at that. Other opinions will vary.




This likely doesn't apply to your situation... but I think it's an interesting anecdote: A few years ago I overhauled a French-built industrial John Deere diesel engine (in an old 544 loader). The thing had flat tappets. The manual specifically said to coat the entire camshaft with black molybdenum grease. I thought it was really strange- but kinda funny. So I did exactly that- greased the whole thing up with thick, heavy black molybdenum grease. Upon start-up, it immediately turned the oil sort of a cloudy dark gray color... but seemed to work well enough.
 
Here's some other stuff I found on the internet:

"I use 2-stroke oil on the cylinder bores and piston rings. (it's made for this!) I read in a rebuild book once, that you should DUNK the piston/rings in motor oil before installing it in the

block. I tried that, and the engine had carbon in the ring grooves at teardown a year later. I stopped doing that, and no carbon since. /phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif If you

use motor oil on the bores, pistons and rings... that should be fine, just don't go crazy with it. Auto trans fluid also works well if there is no 2-stroke oil available. It also burns away

very cleanly."

Sounds kind of funny - I asked my machinist friend and he said that's dumb, and he would never do it, just put motor oil on the bores lightly and on the rings.
 
On OHV engines, you use the nasty moly cam lube specifically made for that app. Don't ever get that on your hands.

OHC engines I just use lubriplate as they either use roller followers, or are direct cam on bucket setups that don't have a lot of load.

As far as piston/bore assembly lube, I got in the MMO habit with that. I dunk the pistons in half an inch of it and assemble. Really, just about any engine lube will work in that app.
 
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From what I read alot of people use the Lubriplate 105 on the rod and main bearings, but they say don't use globs of it.

The Lubriplate 105 feels very thin, plus once the oil starts circulating warm, wouldn't any of this thin white stuff just dissolve out of the oil gallery?
 
Your book is almost assuredly speaking of special moly assembly lube, not chassis grease.
Go buy real engine assembly lube - it is not rare.
Overfill your crankcase 1/2 qt.
Pre fill your oil filter, if possible.
Don't use a heavy oil in the crankcase.
If she was put together right, you'll have no problems.
 
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Moly assembly lube is available at most auto parts stores. I use in in the bearings and on the cam and lifters. Pistons and rings get straight weight motor oil.

Be liberal with it. If you have to change the oil out quickly, that's fine, better than the alternative. Keep in mind sometimes things happen and it may sit for a while or may not fire or have oil pressure immediately.
 
Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
In my overhaul textbook it says to put MOLY on the new lifters on re-assembly.

Are they talking about Lithium EP Moly Grease in the tube? Like the Walmart Supertech stuff?



I can't speak for the WM Lith grease in a tube, but certain chassis greases are stringy. If you use this stuff as an assembly lube and really overdue it, you oil pickup tube can actually be blocked by this stuff. Avoid chassis grease and use an EP assembly lube that is made just for assembly.
 
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