Another Brake Lubricant Question

JHZR2

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This is for my auction win 1991 350SD.

It was like this:
5000F3AC-C52F-40A5-8649-EF0721A0B64F.jpeg
4E7E0F86-40A3-4787-BF87-8EC581CBEB79.jpeg

Car otherwise runs and drives beautifully. The brake calipers were seized tight, not doing anything. Fronts work perfect.

This is what happened:
C47CD529-8825-468E-B545-568B388BA114.jpeg


So now I’m ready to put it back together. Maybe this evening after work or something. But I want to use the right lubes. FSM doesn’t say much.

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Don’t want to overthink it, but you can see that the pads ride on some little (exposed) pins, and it may make sense to put something on the backs of the pads (which have permanent shims).

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I have plenty of products. Copper and silver antiseize, silicone greases, moly paste, m-77, Toyota rubber grease.

I have to wonder if for new calipers, it would be worthwhile to apply Toyota rubber grease lightly to the exposed piston boot? This would just be a one time thing to help it stay soft and supple. Maybe very lightly apply some silicone or m-77 on the pins that the pads ride on? (Item 41 in the caliper pic above) Maybe some anti seize in the holes that the pins fit into? (The holes that the pins and #42 above go through). And something (silicone? M-77?) on the pad backs where they touch the piston?

Again, don’t want to overthink, but I have new calipers and oe pads, and want to lube it right. Seems like there are so many options, and while usually the slide pins in rubber boots get silicone, these are fixed calipers with a pin that the brake pads ride on… that’s totally exposed.

So what would you do/use?
 
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On exposed to weather friction points I use a high solids moly paste (PasteLube 2400) that has superior water proofness. Unlike many lithium/other based lubes, water simply will not mix with this stuff when a dab is held/mixed under the faucet. I also apply a super thin coat to rotor hats, hubs, etc..

My new tub is a changed formula - time will tell.
 

JHZR2

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On exposed to weather friction points I use a high solids moly paste (PasteLube 2400) that has superior water proofness. Unlike many lithium/other based lubes, water simply will not mix with this stuff when a dab is held/mixed under the faucet. I also apply a super thin coat to rotor hats, hubs, etc..

My new tub is a changed formula - time will tell.
Since I don’t have that and wouldn’t for a while… and since pins and pads are easy to remove….

What else would be a good alternative? I’m thinking a super thin coat of m-77 or marine grade moly/graphite anti seize, essentially wiped on and then almost wiped off?
 
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Those are the same as the old Saab 93. I still do a lot of those, they have a tendency to squeal so it is best to coat the rear of the pads with a membrane product especially in the salt belt.
I use this on the side of the pads and pad pins.


Regular never seize either copper or aluminum is fine for the hubs and hats, this works good on the back of the pads. Just a thin coat on the back of the both pads. It is not for every pad but for these pads in fixed calipers it works great for eliminating noise. I would not bother putting anything on the piston boots, it is common for them to go 20+ years with no issues.

 
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We use AC Delco silicone brake grease on everything. a light coat on the pins and the edges of the pads where they ride in the caliper and a dab on the back against the piston
 
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I have not used the M 77, but imagine it is similar to my PasteLube. Here's some pics of how well it keeps stuff rust free. I also use it on exposed agriculture gate hinges, etc. Sadly, like I stated above, they changed the formula and time is needed to judge it.
Typical Jeep brake ......................................................................................my 9 year old, rust belt Jeep.
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JHZR2

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I have not used the M 77, but imagine it is similar to my PasteLube. Here's some pics of how well it keeps stuff rust free. I also use it on exposed agriculture gate hinges, etc. Sadly, like I stated above, they changed the formula and time is needed to judge it.
Typical Jeep brake ......................................................................................my 9 year old, rust belt Jeep.
View attachment 125375 View attachment 125376
Nice! I may need to buy some. You use it on everything?
 

JHZR2

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Well, I did get to doing the job yesterday after work. I stopped at two parts stores on my way to my other garage and neither had the lube that @Trav recommended. I then figured I’d use what I had since this car isn’t likely to see salt, and access to the brakes is super easy if I need to redo.

I ended up using M-77 on everything. Pad backs, sides, a bit on the pins. I figured that as a moly-silicone product, it should be good.

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Maybe I went way overboard. The piston only touches a small central part of the pad. I figure these are so easy to take out it’s not a big deal.

Of course stupid me didn’t look at how the spring should install, didn’t take a photo, and had a hard time finding a good photo of how it should be installed.

I did it upside down first (of course)… heard the scraping when driving.

99BD45FE-DA0F-4032-9C85-AAF7E6F37A56.jpeg

Thanks to @The Critic for guidance and sanity when stupid things happen (this one was totally on me)…. Flipped the springs and the brakes are perfect. No sound, work well.
 
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I have not used the M 77, but imagine it is similar to my PasteLube. Here's some pics of how well it keeps stuff rust free. I also use it on exposed agriculture gate hinges, etc. Sadly, like I stated above, they changed the formula and time is needed to judge it.
Typical Jeep brake ......................................................................................my 9 year old, rust belt Jeep.
View attachment 125375 View attachment 125376
Outstanding...
 
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