When there are no vehicles you want to buy..

Yeah, I feel you… I find it frustrating nobody makes what I want. For example, I want a new Explorer but it’s not available with the non-hybrid naturally aspirated 3.3 v6 unless you get the police version which does offer that. But, not a cop, so I’d be stuck with the 2.3 EcoBoost that I test drove and didn’t fall in love with. Perhaps I’ll go with the F150 as the base engine there is the 3.3 v6.

I’d say just keep the old vehicle for now. I’m going to keep my old Escape for a while longer. By then maybe I will decide whether I can find what I want used for a reasonable price.
I've had a 2020 and 2022 explorer. Those 2.3 turbos are great. Why don't you like them?
 
I've had a 2020 and 2022 explorer. Those 2.3 turbos are great. Why don't you like them?
I ended up just buying a coworker's old Yukon he was trying to get rid of. Will wait on the new Explorer for another year or two until they come down in price. I just didn't love the feel and sound of the 2.3 during the test drive and I don't want to spend so much on a car I won't love.
 
I ended up just buying a coworker's old Yukon he was trying to get rid of. Will wait on the new Explorer for another year or two until they come down in price. I just didn't love the feel and sound of the 2.3 during the test drive and I don't want to spend so much on a car I won't love.
How much do you think they will come down in price- as Ford is raising the price every year? Don't take my word for it. Head over to blueovalnews.com for enlightenment.
 
How much do you think they will come down in price- as Ford is raising the price every year? Don't take my word for it. Head over to blueovalnews.com for enlightenment.

Well, I want only a current gen Explorer, right now that only leaves me 2020+ so if I wait another year or two there will be more available used.
 
The point being is for 99.9% of owners don't need a ladder on frame. Guys doing anything that's going to stress a ladder frame that much have a " built" truck.Or ignoring a vehicles payload/ towing numbers. Yes you need a ladder frame for towing- and not much else. Not for a CUV/ SUV grocery getter.
I think the only real advantages of ladder frames is that they are cheap to make, (if you don't need extreme lightness or stiffness), relatively tough, and can easily be made different lengths for different body and bed configurations.
Anything used off road in competition needs the strength to weight ratio and ease of custom construction of a space frame, and the next level in strength to weight ratio is a monocoque or unit body frame, which do become cheap once you scale up to make a 100's of thousands.
Given now that 95% of 1/2 ton trucks are now all crewcab short boxes, I would think they could make a 1/2ton unit body truck that would outperform a ladder frame in every almost measure for 99% of buyers. A unit body could be made easily to have a hitch and plow attachment points as strong as a ladder frame.
 
Given now that 95% of 1/2 ton trucks are now all crewcab short boxes, I would think they could make a 1/2ton unit body truck that would outperform a ladder frame in every almost measure for 99% of buyers. A unit body could be made easily to have a hitch and plow attachment points as strong as a ladder frame.
*cough* Ridgeline *cough*

“But that’s not a real truck! No frame! Junk! how do you expect me to do a six inch lift and run super swampers on my mall cruiser? I need something that can tow a house and traverse the Sahara, just in case I ever feel the need to do so.”
 
*cough* Ridgeline *cough*

“But that’s not a real truck! No frame! Junk! how do you expect me to do a six inch lift and run super swampers on my mall cruiser? I need something that can tow a house and traverse the Sahara, just in case I ever feel the need to do so.”
Yeah, if it was right wheel drive, a solid honest axle, and had the engine oriented the way god intended, it would have a half a chance of being a good truck! ;)
 
I was shopping for an SUV this year and my preferences seemed like there wasn't a clear option. I was hoping to tick these boxes:
  • BOF, two-speed 4WD transfer case (4-auto option would be nice)
  • Not a full-size in width
  • I can sleep in the back (6' 1") - fold-flat seating preferred, third row would be nice but not if it was 200" long
  • Independent rear suspension (not for that necessarily, but the space/packaging benefits would be nice versus a tough solid axle)
  • Fuelly average around 17+ MPG, without a reputation for trouble
  • I can't really get with the Wrangler and Bronco styling and aren't especially keen on higher brands.
The bang-on choice would've been a Kia Borrego - being the most modern to come out before the whole segment went the way of the dodo but I missed my shot on a clean one, other examples and R51 Pathfinders seem rare/rusty without significant travel nowadays. I'd consider an Xterra but otherwise the front-runners would have been a 4Runner or GX. I don't fit with the sunroof so SR5 4Runner's only, haven't tried the GX but not sure how I feel about both third row's being stuck on top of the trunk floor along with the GX's side-opening-rear-door. (and it taking premium, on paper at least)

Couldn't justify the prices used and new - especially with resale in the pits with the whole theft thing and mediocre-at-best 4-cylinders, so I decided to shore up the Sorento with a slight lift, new AWD clutch (great system I might add) and security system - it being the devil I know after all. At least unibody dynamics, fuel economy, smaller size, interior space and full-time AWD are there as a consolation prize. Just will have to turn around sooner off-pavement and keep a close eye on the engine + oil, praying it either defies it's heritage (keeps working well) or at least spins a bearing at a convenient time.

If the car split in half tomorrow, I'd probably glance at a newer Xterra, Borrego's nationwide and then ultimately cross-shop a 4Runner and Passport while struggling with which set of compromises to pick.
 
I'm in a similar quandary. Our 2012 Escape just turned over 100k miles and it's starting to rust around the rear wheel wells. It's a 3.0 V6 AWD without all the DI turbo / lane departure / adaptive cruise / heated steering wheel stuff that costs money to fix.

OTOH, a proper rust repair would be about 5k. As much as I hate to drive a rusty car, I don't see any appealing alternative.
 
I'm in a similar quandary. Our 2012 Escape just turned over 100k miles and it's starting to rust around the rear wheel wells. It's a 3.0 V6 AWD without all the DI turbo / lane departure / adaptive cruise / heated steering wheel stuff that costs money to fix.

OTOH, a proper rust repair would be about 5k. As much as I hate to drive a rusty car, I don't see any appealing alternative.
How much is a sorta-ok rust repair? Sand and shoot something, expect to do again in a few years. I guess the real question is, what's it like underneath? that is the real killer. If you like the car and it's in good shape, it might be worth the cost. OTOH you might never recoup that cost if you total it the following month--would you be sad if that happened?

[Not that you should follow my advice--my gold colored car is slowly turning Rustoleum Brown as that is what I use to "fix" rock chips.]
 
I'm in a similar quandary. Our 2012 Escape just turned over 100k miles and it's starting to rust around the rear wheel wells. It's a 3.0 V6 AWD without all the DI turbo / lane departure / adaptive cruise / heated steering wheel stuff that costs money to fix.

OTOH, a proper rust repair would be about 5k. As much as I hate to drive a rusty car, I don't see any appealing alternative.
Why not buy another of the same vehicle from a place with no rust? I just sold my 2010 Escape with 0 rust. You could fly out here and get another and drive it home?
 
I'm surprised that nobody here mentioned a 4Runner. They are as near bullet-proof as any vehicle you can buy and they seemingly last forever. Unfortunately, since they are so highly regarded, the prices are high, so you might have to go for something a couple of years older than your target.
 
I'm surprised that nobody here mentioned a 4Runner. They are as near bullet-proof as any vehicle you can buy and they seemingly last forever. Unfortunately, since they are so highly regarded, the prices are high, so you might have to go for something a couple of years older than your target.
A couple years older and a lot more miles than your target price. Not everyone wants a truck that you sit in like a sedan either.
 
I was shopping for an SUV this year and my preferences seemed like there wasn't a clear option. I was hoping to tick these boxes:
  • BOF, two-speed 4WD transfer case (4-auto option would be nice)
  • Not a full-size in width
  • I can sleep in the back (6' 1") - fold-flat seating preferred, third row would be nice but not if it was 200" long
  • Independent rear suspension (not for that necessarily, but the space/packaging benefits would be nice versus a tough solid axle)
  • Fuelly average around 17+ MPG, without a reputation for trouble
  • I can't really get with the Wrangler and Bronco styling and aren't especially keen on higher brands.
The bang-on choice would've been a Kia Borrego - being the most modern to come out before the whole segment went the way of the dodo but I missed my shot on a clean one, other examples and R51 Pathfinders seem rare/rusty without significant travel nowadays. I'd consider an Xterra but otherwise the front-runners would have been a 4Runner or GX. I don't fit with the sunroof so SR5 4Runner's only, haven't tried the GX but not sure how I feel about both third row's being stuck on top of the trunk floor along with the GX's side-opening-rear-door. (and it taking premium, on paper at least)

Couldn't justify the prices used and new - especially with resale in the pits with the whole theft thing and mediocre-at-best 4-cylinders, so I decided to shore up the Sorento with a slight lift, new AWD clutch (great system I might add) and security system - it being the devil I know after all. At least unibody dynamics, fuel economy, smaller size, interior space and full-time AWD are there as a consolation prize. Just will have to turn around sooner off-pavement and keep a close eye on the engine + oil, praying it either defies it's heritage (keeps working well) or at least spins a bearing at a convenient time.

If the car split in half tomorrow, I'd probably glance at a newer Xterra, Borrego's nationwide and then ultimately cross-shop a 4Runner and Passport while struggling with which set of compromises to pick.
Mitsubishi Montero, they quit making them in 2006 though. 2 speed transfer case, 5 speed a/t, folding 2nd and 3rd rows that can also lay out flat to make a sleeping platform of sorts. underpowered and bad gas mileage but no turbos or gdi. the older ones don't have mivec (similar to honda VTEC) and are even slower. similar to an Xterra or 4runner but they're sorta rare and some parts are hard to find stateside.
 
How much is a sorta-ok rust repair? Sand and shoot something, expect to do again in a few years. I guess the real question is, what's it like underneath? that is the real killer. If you like the car and it's in good shape, it might be worth the cost. OTOH you might never recoup that cost if you total it the following month--would you be sad if that happened?

[Not that you should follow my advice--my gold colored car is slowly turning Rustoleum Brown as that is what I use to "fix" rock chips.]
I considered that route. The only durable rust repair is new sheet metal. Between a half hearted repair and the little bit of rust that's showing I'll live with the rust for now. The other concern is that I live in rural northern MI. We are overrun with deer and they are dumb as rocks. Careful driving and understanding their habits only protects a driver until one decides to come flying out of the woods at a dead run. In the last ten years I have hit two. The Escape repair was 5k. Today that would total the car. I would get exactly 0 extra for a 5k body repair.
 
Why not buy another of the same vehicle from a place with no rust? I just sold my 2010 Escape with 0 rust. You could fly out here and get another and drive it home?
That is a thought but I don't have a proper passport to enter the state of Cali. :LOL: Nor do I want one. I know the mechanical condition of mine and the maintenance has been kept up since I bought it. Picking up a clean bodied car that has unseen issues is just trading one expense for another. I can live with rust (grudgingly). I can't live without Reverse gear. Or a timing chain. With a little bit of luck I'll get rear ended by a tourist this summer and the problem will be solved. Some of them are only fractionally smarter than deer and less predictable.
 
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