When is it Time to Trade?

I we would not bet on vehicle prices coming back to reality by 2030.

Is the transmission on the vehicle known to have issues? If so dump the vehicle and move on.
That is more than likely true. Base prices keep going up because of all the electronics and features they keep adding (none of which I would want in a new truck). Cannot stand the 10-speed trans or the auto on-off on our 2019 F150 we have at work so I am not even sure I would stay with Ford if I did purchase.

To keep a long story short, I don't believe the trans was problematic before the rebuild. There was a noise happening during a 5-3 downshift at around 45mph. After both rebuilds and now a new trans installed, the noise can still happen as it did on the way home immediately after the new trans was installed. I have just figured out how to drive and avoid the conditions that cause it to happen. (I have read where others that have the same noise believe it could be the drive shaft needing greasing. IDK)

keep the vehicle,if no to little rust,,repair as needed,the leaky pan,,reach up in there and try to re-torq the bolts on pan,it may help the problem, continue to properly maintain the vehicle.
MO probably falls in the rust belt, but I keep my truck clean. Anytime salt is laid down, I use a special attachment on my pressure washer to rinse underneath our vehicles. I will see if my friend who is the service manager at a Ford dealership can tell me torque specs and give that a shot.

The short answer is if you actually trade, they will under value your trade, and you will over-pay for the new one. In a few years the new one - with post pandemic quality, will be worse.

It is at 150K miles so some repairs are expected. All the thing you have mentioned will be "deducted" from your trade in value. Do you actually have a trade in amount from your dealer or are you using KBB? My guess is you will get $12K trade?
The truck is paid off so I wouldn't be looking to trade. I valued it on KBB, NADA, and then compared listings across CarFax, CarGurus, and local dealers (within 50 miles) to give myself a best estimate on trade and possible Private Sale value. I'm guesstimating trade at $13-15K and Private Sale at $18K for what I have seen in my area.

Out of pocket repairs sting, but the math rarely supports trading to a newer vehicle as an alternative.

You say your truck seems to be the only one depreciating - is that actually true compared to other 2016 pickups? If so, I would suggest figuring out why that is. It makes me think of how 5.4L F-150s are hard to give away, because the engine is problematic. In that sort of case, dump it for what you can get and run.
16's that are very similar in options and mileage to mine seem to be listed for sale anywhere from $20-23K in my area and I'll be honest, I feel like mine looks to be in way better shape than a lot of the listings. I also think my area may be a touch over priced because if I am willing to travel 2 hours to the St Louis area I can find better deals (but of course they do more volume up there).

^This. You're in no hurry to sell. Sell it yourself. List for $18K and take the first $16K offer.
Selling myself would be the plan if we decide to change things up.

Why won’t the lifetime powertrain warranty cover both of those items? Powertrain warranties typically cover anything that oil touches.
I am going to call the company the warranty is through today. Their wording is
"Covered Components: The customer acknowledges that the components covered will be the same as the original Factory Powertrain Warranty with the exception of the items listed herein as not covered under COVERAGES below.

This Warranty Covers:
Engine: Cylinder block and head and all internal parts, intake manifold, timing gears and gaskets, timing chain/belt and cover, flywheel, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, engine mounts, turbocharger housing and all internal parts, supercharger housing and all internal parts, ECM, water pump, fuel pump, seals and gaskets."

So with that wording there may be a possibility that all of the current concerns could be covered since it's original Factory Powertrain plus what they listed. I am not getting my hopes up too high, though.
 
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Thank you all for the responses and thoughts! Always good to see multiple thoughts and sides that I may have not thought of!
 
Have you lost confidence in the truck? No fun driving something you're just waiting for the next thing to fail. Also if you keep driving it as you have been by 2030 you'll be around 250k miles. Will it be what you want you son to have at that point?
 
It depends if it's a rust belt or non-rust belt vehicle though. What scares me about vehicle's today is the control modules and electronics that are quickly no longer produced. I saw a video recently of this exact scenario on a 2014 Jeep grand Cherokee. Road salt corroded the electronic bits.
The salt got to the electronics before the rest of the vehicle on a 2014?
 
I have a 2016 F150 with the 5.0. I purchased it in 2017 with 49K miles on it and I am just 50 miles short of hitting 150K miles. The truck came with a Limited Lifetime Powertrain Warranty (for as long as I own it) and I also had a Bumper to Bumper warranty that expired at 127K miles. I have taken great care of it and up until a few months ago the plan was to keep the truck long-term, drive it until my oldest son turns 16 (2030) and then it be his. To be honest, I have been happy with the truck until recently thinking about it all and the issues/repairs needed over the last 6 years I have owned it. If I didn't have the Bumper to Bumper warranty while I did, I don't know if I would have owned it past 2019 though.

Trans Rebuild in 2018 (2X) **Second time was on Ford's dime under their warranty (68K miles)
Trans Replacement / Driver Seat Heating Element Replaced in 2021 (116K miles)
Upper Radiator Hose / T-Connector / Drive and AC Belts Replaced in 2022
Water Pump / Idler / Steering Wheel Controls 2022

I looked back through those service receipts and without that Bumper to Bumper warranty, $10K+ would have been spent just on the trans rebuild and the trans replacement combined. Instead I only had to spend a $200 deductible each trip and that does take away a lot of sting and I guess why I wasn't really all that upset with the truck then.

The reason I am contemplating if it's time to trade now is it seems like the new issues are starting to add up.
1) Two oil changes ago I noticed the evidence of a seep at the back of the oil pan. My most recent oil change I just did last week I noticed it's become worse than a seep as oil is able to drip from the rear bolts on the pan, it's very wet down the back of the pan with some drips forming on the bottom, and the sway bar even has oil on it that is able to form drips. This is my third fill of High Milesage oil and I am assuming the gasket has failed and nothing can help it. Have only received one quote so far and it was estimated at $400. $60 for the gasket and the rest for 3.5 hours of labor as it requires removing the sway bar and disconnecting the front diff to drop the pan.
2) The VCT Solenoid Gaskets on both the driver and passenger sides have been progressively seeping worse and worse over the last year. When those eventually get bad enough to need replacing I'll have to decide on what to replace since I could be around 175K miles by that point. If I have the valve covers already off I should probably just consider replacing the VCT Solenoids and instead of purchasing gaskets, spend the extra $$ and just put new covers on since they come with the gaskets I would need otherwise. Of course from what I have researched, labor on all that wouldn't be cheap either.

The final thing is the only vehicle getting cheaper in value these days is mine. Estimated trade-in is down to $15-17K now. I really want to believe that by 2030 (when I had planned on needing to buy my next vehicle) new and used car/truck prices will have come back to reality, but I am worried that won't be the case.

So, help me think this over some more.
Would you guys stick it out and keep fixing what comes up? Or would you lean towards trading if finances allowed?
Any other high mileage 5.0 engine issues I should be watching/looking for?

Thanks in advance for any and all help and thoughts!
If you have a lifetime powertrain warranty are the oil leaks not covered or are they considered wear and tear?
In addition does the contract language have a time limit on lifetime?

Id be hung on the warranty as a bonus for a vehicle this old, especially if its going to become a handme down vehicle. Good luck findinf a replacement thats covered would be my concern'

I'd personally look at replacements in the market, but not move on one till end of summer.
 
Is there any truck you want that is going to be more reliable? It sounds like your transmission is covered forever, which seems to be a big plus these days?
I dunno, I kind of like going with the devil I know already, unless there has been significant improvements in parts quality in the new trucks?
 
Ford, IMO, overkills on electronics. I don't like excessive electronics, so I purposely bought a 2019 RAM Classic. That, and the RAM's great price at that time, and its stellar ride quality.

I hope the OP keeps his F150, it seems most of the issues are worked out. If however he decides to move on, check out the RAM Classic. I love the simpler design and lack of superfluous electronics. BTW the V6 Pentastar is awesome.
 
Have you lost confidence in the truck? No fun driving something you're just waiting for the next thing to fail. Also if you keep driving it as you have been by 2030 you'll be around 250k miles. Will it be what you want you son to have at that point?
I wouldn't say I am not confident in the truck, but I do sometimes worry about what could pop up next just because of age and mileage.

The reason we contemplate keeping it for my son is that from 49K miles on I know exactly what has gone on with the truck. If we were to buy him something at 16 it would not be anything special nor something we would finance, so we figure passing on a vehicle we know the majority of the maintenance done and past repairs on seems to be a better idea than paying cash for something that will more than likely be high mileage and potentially unknown history on.

Is there any truck you want that is going to be more reliable? It sounds like your transmission is covered forever, which seems to be a big plus these days?
I dunno, I kind of like going with the devil I know already, unless there has been significant improvements in parts quality in the new trucks?
I honestly haven't looked deep into trucks in 4-5 years. I do know any F150 with the 10-speed is off my radar.

The LLPW that came with my current truck is for sure a plus and why we initally committed to keeping this truck long term. As long as repairs are covered, I pay a $100 deductible "for covered repairs per covered component" (their wording). So depending on what fails/breaks I could be out more than $100 in a single trip. I just worry about the possible failures/repairs that are not covered by it since it isn't a Bumper to Bumper like the expired warranty I had.

Ford, IMO, overkills on electronics. I don't like excessive electronics, so I purposely bought a 2019 RAM Classic. That, and the RAM's great price at that time, and its stellar ride quality.

I hope the OP keeps his F150, it seems most of the issues are worked out. If however he decides to move on, check out the RAM Classic. I love the simpler design and lack of superfluous electronics. BTW the V6 Pentastar is awesome.
Any Ford '18 and newer and above an XLT is like an airliner cockpit compared to my truck! LOL.

RAM was my truck of choice before this Ford. May look into those again. I've also considered going away from a truck altogether, too as I don't do as many truck things as I used to: towing less, hunting less, etc. Friend of mine is selling a low-mileage Armada with the 5.6L and 8-speed trans and have half considered something like that. Has all the factory essentials in the case I would need to tow on ocassion.
 
My brother had an Armada. Excellent vehicle, excellent tow capacity. In fact, that's exactly why he bought it, it was one of the few gas vehicles capable of towing his XL RV. If you can get it for a good price jump on it!
 
The salt got to the electronics before the rest of the vehicle on a 2014?
In this case it did. Salt laden water wicked it way up into a connector for the front body control module and rotted a pin right of the obsolete BCM. This kind of thing is going to send more and more vehicles early to the crusher as time goes on.
 
And you often regret the last big chunk of money you put into a vehicle.
Just spent right at $575 on it in the last 2 weeks so not keen on the idea of selling at the moment :ROFLMAO:
Front and Rear Diffs and T Case fluids changed and I changed my oil and filter.
 
what brand of oil and viscosity's do you use,,,just curious,,and if you replace the truck,have you considered others as,chevy,dodge,toyotas ??
 
what brand of oil and viscosity's do you use,,,just curious,,and if you replace the truck,have you considered others as,chevy,dodge,toyotas ??
The first 3 years I ran AMSOIL 5W20, mainly SS but did run XL one OCI. Right around 100K on the odometer I quit using AMSOIL and have since used Motorcraft FS (1X), Castrol EDGE (1X), Castrol Magnatec (1X), Valvoline EP (3X), Mobil 1 FS (1X), Valvoline EP HM (2X), and Quaker State FSHM (1X).
Have used 5w20, 5W30, 0W40.
OCI's varied from oil to oil. AMSOIL SS I would take to 9K, Valvoline EP went to about 7K, and all the others were ran about 4.5K to 6K OCI's.

I do like the look of the new Tundra's. Some of the colors they offer are pretty sharp, too!
 
Toyotas are really nice and good trucks,i had a 1985 4X4 ran till 248k till rust took it out (frame),,did very little repairs to it,,highly recommend them,, for oil ,amsoil ss would be my first choice if you got a new truck (i dont sell amsoil),,or even vavoline EP is a great oil,,good luck on your decisions
 
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