Wheel-stud installation/removal -- ball-joint tool

Trav, I absolutely agree that the OTC set would be the far better purchase. I only needed the ball joint tool, so I opted for the HF one as if it didn't work I'd only be out $15. And it was the only one available on a shelf when I was into the job and realized I needed it.

When I know that I'll be buying a tool for more than 1 or 2 uses, I will always go with the higher quality ones. This occasion, I just happen to have issues with the control arm that I installed and they were warrantied a couple of times so the ball joint tool saw more action than I thouhgt it would.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I have my OTC for a long time and done lots of joints some really tough ones too and it never failed. For the whole set there is $17 difference. No brainer.

Thanks for pointing out the OTC set. I believe you that it's of better quality. However, the OTC tool (bought separately) is $48 with shipping, which is twice or more than for the Harbor Freight tool. I think some DIYers will find it too expensive for occasional light-duty jobs.

I didn't realize that there was a 20%-off Harbor Freight coupon that you can find online. It's good to know for next time.
 
That's a good point. It's bad enough on a typical tie rod end, but when you are removing control arms it separates with a vengeance. I would hate to see that nub break off.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Never owned the HF one, just opened one up on the shelf and found this.
You can't make this stuff up. Imagine if it popped when stressing it in use?
 
Bumping an old thread as I have to replace the wheel studs on my Subaru. I bought the Lisle stud tool, and it is NOT just a washer. It is a bearing that allows the seat to rotate with the nut, but not the base of the hub.
 
I tried to push them in with the same type of puller and It didnt work. Every time I tried, the stud went in with an angle and then it stopped going in.... it seems impossible so I just ordred that little black tool from Lisle and I will use my air tool to pull them in.... Such a shame because I was so excited to do this the right way but it really doesn't work.

I have watched some youtube video's and other topics and also talked to some garages but everyone is doing it this way. Many people dont even use that Lisle tool but they use washers.....

To decrease the risk I will heat up the bearing with my heatgun to make the hole a bit bigger and apply some fat on the studs so they go in more easy.

I hope I dont break my 500 dollar wheel bearing again with that heatgun....
 
I just hit the studs out usually and drive them in with two nuts usually. I don’t have a stud removal tool actually never found the need for one.
 
I have both sizes of the Lisle wheel stud tool and installed all 16 wheel studs when I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies on the front end of my 98 Chevy 1 ton and had no issues. The tool worked perfectly. I also replaced a broken stud on a 94 Cavalier with the smaller one and it worked perfectly as well.
 
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