What's the most important # on oil specs?

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Tough question, because you want enough of everything to get the job done, but not so much as to be a waste.

A good example is M1 V-Twin 20W50 which has a very high HTHS of 6.1 cP and high zinc levels of 1750 ppm, so a great car race oil and motorcycle oil, but too much for the average family car. Not a good winter oil and likely to increase fuel consumption.

However I do like things like HTHS, zinc and TBN in generous amounts. The Euro ACEA A3/B4 oils provide this in a nice balance, with the OEM specs of MB 229.5, BMW LL-01 and Porsche A40 taking it up another notch again.

If I wanted a more resource conserving oil, a typical API SN and ILSAC GF-5 oil, then I would chase Dexos1 or ACEA A5/B5 specs as a good quality balance point. You can expect less TBN, zinc and HTHS than the typical A3/B4 oil; but still more than enough to get the job done for the general driver on the road.

So first I decide the type of oil I want ( eg A3 or GF-5), then I chase a few good specs in that oil class (eg Porsche A40 or Dexos1 respectively) then I see what is around as a name brand oil at a good price.

Finally once my above filter has produced a short list, I then look for the oil with the lowest NOACK volatility (%). You need a well balanced package, but once you have that, I think low Noack volatility reflects a quality product with good base stock and low polymer VII load.
 
I'd also argue the most important number is The Price.

I can tell you from bitter experience that when oils are being formulated, whether they be lowly SC/CC oils or fancy factory fill jobbies, price is the thing that transcends all discussion of wear rates or ring fill.

Furthermore, when you twig that the majority of oils are built around the concept of 'extremes' which are rarely encountered by boring drivers who drive boring cars in a boring way in a boring country with a boringly moderate climatic variance, you should ask the question, why should I pay more than I need to?
 
Originally Posted By: Big_3_Only
I'm not asking the "best oil" question, but maybe I'm not conveying my question correctly. If there's not one spec that is more important than any other because they all have to work together, then that would be an answer.

A lot of it depends upon your application, usage patterns, and maintenance habits. For instance, if you're doing 3000 mile OCIs on an ordinary fuel injected vehicle (i.e. no fuel dilution, easy use, a vehicle calling for an ordinary ILSAC lube and nothing proprietary or exotic), worrying about getting the highest possible TBN would be silly. You're not stretching the limits of the lubricant in the first place. If you're running a taxi, you probably don't need to worry a whole lot about viscosity index (for fuel economy concerns over the warm up phase) or cold start values.
 
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