Whats so good about redline?

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t's a trap that's easy to fall into. For example, the theory often goes like this: "It uses "some amount of POE basestocks? Wow, it must be great. Lots of moly? Awesome!" Would you pick a wife based on her generously sized chest? No.





completely agree. I used to think that way. I though RL was special because it used an "ester" base oil. Big deal. Not all esters are good and not all ester based oil are good. Same with certain additives. It's the complete formulation that matters.




So are you saying Redline is no good?
The only real complaint I've seen regarding Redline is the sometimes higher copper and lead readings which is theorized to be leached from bearings due to the "cleaning" properties of the esters used. However, those numbers usually tend to go down after time. I think it's probably not the best oil for most applications but that's mainly because it's overkill for most applications.
I know for a fact that any car I own with a turbo or high performance engine will be, and have been in the past, filled with Redline. Is there a better choice for the money for a high performance application? I don't think so, but others certainly have their own opinions. I know that Terry likes it and I value his opinion far more than most who post here.
 
harry, RL handles heat very well, but so does M1 and Amsoil. I'm not so sure Terry likes RL anymore. You would have to ask him. He's mentioned some things about inconsistency.

The UOA's overall have been mediocre. Thats all I can really say. Worked great in my car but the Honda 2.4L usually shows well on any oil.

We've had a lot of people say great things about it, but never any data to back it up. I know 3 people that switched from RL to other brands and picked up a few mpg. Long drains are also suspect with RL. So all in all, for turbo and high temps it's good, other than that I don't know.
 
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FWIW, if you go by cleaning effects, I found that arx was MUCH more aggressive at cleaning than redline judging by filter contents.

Yet, in the only UOA I've ever done, which was on an arx rinse cycle, the only wear metal I had that was CLOSE to abnormal was 19 ppm lead... For redline to be such an aggressive cleaner, it sure didn't translate into dirty filters...




Good point! This is EXACTLY what I've been thinking as I've read the "Red Line Poor UOA" debates over the years.

Why is it that ARX UOA's aren't terrible all the time, since they are cleaning, as Red Line does?

Don't get me wrong - I'm not a Red Line hater... I just see what appears to me to be a flaw in the logic that the poor UOAs are due to cleaning.

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You may have something there detective Big.

Although this may just be another case similar to the Mobil 1 iron spikes. They just keep on coming, so far we have no leads to that case ither.
I'm afraid this will become a cold case file and will come up 20 years later.
 
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harry, RL handles heat very well, but so does M1 and Amsoil. I'm not so sure Terry likes RL anymore. You would have to ask him. He's mentioned some things about inconsistency.

The UOA's overall have been mediocre. Thats all I can really say. Worked great in my car but the Honda 2.4L usually shows well on any oil.

We've had a lot of people say great things about it, but never any data to back it up. I know 3 people that switched from RL to other brands and picked up a few mpg. Long drains are also suspect with RL. So all in all, for turbo and high temps it's good, other than that I don't know.



I don't want to speak for Terry, but I recently exchanged e-mails with him regarding an analysis he did for me and he implied that he still liked Redline just fine.
Also, I don't think Mobil 1 or even the better grades of Amsoil handle heat quite as well as Redline does. For most applications that probably won't matter though, since the oil won't be stressed enough to need that type of protection.
 
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Also, I don't think Mobil 1 or even the better grades of Amsoil handle heat quite as well as Redline does.




Why do you think that way?

To answer your question of whether I'm saying Redline is no good...I wouldn't phrase it that way. I'd say it is a suspect oil as is the brand as a whole.
 
Seems like high Pb/Cu reading are from people who SWITCHed to Redline, 1 or 2 bad UOAs and they jump ship and the big conclusions are drawn. Has anyone used redline for 6 or 7 OC, when initially getting high Pb/Cu? I haven't seen it;

I have many "clean" UOA's with Redline (car had diet of 5K OCI M1) prior to my low mileage switch; Never had a bad UOA with RL, 7,8,9,10K OCI.
 
buster you suffer badly from 'selective memory', a common affliction. There are many exceptional UOA's on BITOG if people bother to look. You constantly forget Tyrolkids UOA's, nearly as good as yours but on a more consistent basis. Personally I don't run Redline engine oils these days (wish I could) due to cost but I use Redline gear, diff, p/s oil religiously. Try telling my Subaru head mechanic that my Redline trans/diff/p/s oil had done 60,000kms when he changed them. He said they had just been done. Mechanics don't understand oil that drains out looking like it has just come out of the bottle. Mola's Speciality Formulations probably would show similar results but then I'm guessing.
 
The syndrome is this;

Any oil except Redline + Bad UOA = problem with engine
Any oil except Redline + Good UOA = great oil.

Redline, Toyota + Good UOA = Its because its a toyota.
Redline, any car except Toyota or VW, + bad UOA = overpriced botique oil.

-T
 
Selective memory? sprintman you seem to be selecting the same UOA's every time this comes up. Seriously, do a search and look at what cars RL does well in and you'll see. I have no bias towards or against RL, but it's something worth noting.
 
There is a RL 5W30 UOA somehere way back that was also exceptional. A few yrs ago from memory. All I remember is after runing Arx and Delvac 1 in our Outback then RL it got dirty quickly. Best fuel economy ever in this vehicle
 
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The syndrome is this;

Any oil except Redline + Bad UOA = problem with engine
Any oil except Redline + Good UOA = great oil.

Redline, Toyota + Good UOA = Its because its a toyota.
Redline, any car except Toyota or VW, + bad UOA = overpriced botique oil.

-T




Very well said!

Thats why I dont believe half of the information on this site,because of simliar observations.
 
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The syndrome is this;

Any oil except Redline + Bad UOA = problem with engine
Any oil except Redline + Good UOA = great oil.

Redline, Toyota + Good UOA = Its because its a toyota.
Redline, any car except Toyota or VW, + bad UOA = overpriced botique oil.

-T




Very well said!

Thats why I dont believe half of the information on this site,because of simliar observations.



Agreed. There's lots of valuable information to be found in this forum, but you really need to sift through all the garbage, bias, and typical "internet expert" opinions first. That's not always easy to do.
 
My opinions don't come from "internet experts", that I can assure you of. Amsoil will soon be releasing a White Paper (similar to the Motor Cycle oil paper) on gear oils. Redline will be on the list.
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Redline's racing oils are probably stellar, I just question their street oils and so do many others. To each their own....if you're absolutely positive that high Pb readings are not corrosion or that high tin/al are not wear, go for it.
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I'm wondering why none of the BITOG oil professionals are responding to this thread (at least that I am aware of). Would really like to hear their take.

I run Redline in transmissions and differentials. Probably will run it in PS pump next time I change on out. As for motor oil, Redline seems way overkill for street use. If I had a vehicle that accumulated enough miles in a year and didn't have oil seepage, I might be inclinde to run Redline in it.

I did put Redline 10w30 in my motorhomes air cooled generator. I feel the ester is a good way to go with air cooled. Might be a good idea to UOA this one.
 
I have Redline D4 ATF in my transmission the specs Mercon / Mercon V....doing just fine....3 months use so far.

I have Redline 5W-20 in my engine.....I read posts in this thread that say that is is not good......to saying that it is way too good.....
My motor is doing fine.......1 year use so far.

I have Redline "Synthetic Power Steering Fluid" in my power steering that specs. "Type F" ATF...... Lists the FORD Specification number on the bottle...... It has been doing fine for the past 3 years.

A lot of people are super loyal to a particular brand, and other's just get what is on sale.
I used Mobil 1 for YEARS before the Redline, and, I am sure that I would still be just fine on it.
Read up (but don't worry about internet hype), use, and be happy with the particular product you choose.
If in doublt....get a UOA and a Dyson Analysis.
 
Redline won't destroy your engine. LOL. What I'm saying is based on the accumulated data we have here, RL has been an AVERAGE oil at best. (Street oils). The pro's use Redline racing oils.

I used to believe in the so called "scavenger" theory, but if that is the case, why doesnt' Motul, BIO RLI, Maxima and even AutoRx behave similarly? RL's TBN is always low even during moderate drain intervals and I've noticed higher tin/Al in most reports. Pb could be corrosion.
 
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