got a 07 yukon xl with 52k, got it last week and i haven't drove it much since, got in it this morn and it wouldn't crank, battery was completely drained. i read on another forum where this model has had a problem where the computer stays on after everything is turned off. therefore the battery is being drained without you even knowing? anyone here ever heard of this, and if so, can this be fixed without carrying it to the dealer?
what's draining my battery ?
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Your info may or may not be correct. I can not confirm that.
What I can tell you is that since 1983, I have bought four GM cars new, from the dealer. None of the OEM batteries made it past two years. On my first of two 98 Buick Regal GSs, the one that got lemon-lawed back to GM, the factory battery gave up within months of delivery.
I'd just check to make sure that you don't really have an off-line draw killing your battery, then I'd invest in something real like an Odyssey or Optima.
What I can tell you is that since 1983, I have bought four GM cars new, from the dealer. None of the OEM batteries made it past two years. On my first of two 98 Buick Regal GSs, the one that got lemon-lawed back to GM, the factory battery gave up within months of delivery.
I'd just check to make sure that you don't really have an off-line draw killing your battery, then I'd invest in something real like an Odyssey or Optima.
first of all, are you sure that no interior lights were left on? then do a load test on the battery. after that, you need an ammeter in series with the battery. I'm not sure of the exact spec, but a "normal" car probably pulls less than 50 ma with the car off. if you have more draw than that, start pulling fuses until the draw drops to an acceptable level. I've also one case where the alternator (either a diode or internal regulator) was the culprit.
I'd say there's a hot lead that stays hot when the key is pulled.
The current gen of Honda Pilots are having issues like this with the sunroof motors drawing way too much power and killing the batteries. The fix: Pull the fuse and wait for a real fix.
The current gen of Honda Pilots are having issues like this with the sunroof motors drawing way too much power and killing the batteries. The fix: Pull the fuse and wait for a real fix.
Get it jumped and check the voltmeter on the dash. If its about 13.5 - 14 volts you know it's charging. Then it can only be a key off draw or a faulty battery. You want to eliminate that first.
My dad's Windstar had a problem of killing the battery because the computer wouldn't go into sleep mode after the ignition was shut-off and it turned out to be the security module that controls the door locks keeping it awake because the one door actuator on the driver-side door wasn't moving to the lock/un-lock position fully so the switch in the door that told the computer whether the door was unlocked or locked wasn't feeding it information so the computer kept waiting.
Long story short we replaced the door actuator for the power locks and it has been fine since.
Drove us friggin' nuts!
Long story short we replaced the door actuator for the power locks and it has been fine since.
Drove us friggin' nuts!
We started pulling fuses 1 at a time and left the vehicle over night to isolate the circuit that was causing it and then investigated all the devices on the circuit once we found which fuse, when pulled, fixed the problem.
Then we started unplugging devices attached to that fuse. When we pulled the power off the ECM we knew it was that causing the drain and then we investigated what would keep it running by googling and talking to a Ford dealer through a friend who worked there.
If you can isolate the circuit I will help you troubleshoot it from there.
Steve
Then we started unplugging devices attached to that fuse. When we pulled the power off the ECM we knew it was that causing the drain and then we investigated what would keep it running by googling and talking to a Ford dealer through a friend who worked there.
If you can isolate the circuit I will help you troubleshoot it from there.
Steve
If you can't wait that long you could hook up an AMP meter around the positive wire and start pulling fuses until you see the amps drop off to almost 0 and that will be your circuit.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
I'd say there's a hot lead that stays hot when the key is pulled.
The current gen of Honda Pilots are having issues like this with the sunroof motors drawing way too much power and killing the batteries. The fix: Pull the fuse and wait for a real fix.
Interesting. I have an 09 odyssey that's had dead batteries. I'm going to measure the draw with and without the sunroof fuse in. I always thought it was my wife's short trips and 2 side power doors + one power rear door all opening and closing at each stop that's killing it.
This is the first lead towards something else. Thanks for that!
I'd say there's a hot lead that stays hot when the key is pulled.
The current gen of Honda Pilots are having issues like this with the sunroof motors drawing way too much power and killing the batteries. The fix: Pull the fuse and wait for a real fix.
Interesting. I have an 09 odyssey that's had dead batteries. I'm going to measure the draw with and without the sunroof fuse in. I always thought it was my wife's short trips and 2 side power doors + one power rear door all opening and closing at each stop that's killing it.
This is the first lead towards something else. Thanks for that!
Pull 1/2 the fuses the first night:
If the problem goes away then it is with the fuses that you pulled. If this is the case put 1/2 of those back in for the second night. Exc...ecx...
If the problem does not go away then it is with the 1/2 you did not pull. If this is the case pull 1/2 of the ones you did not pull the first night. Exc...exc
If the problem goes away then it is with the fuses that you pulled. If this is the case put 1/2 of those back in for the second night. Exc...ecx...
If the problem does not go away then it is with the 1/2 you did not pull. If this is the case pull 1/2 of the ones you did not pull the first night. Exc...exc
Almost anything could be wrong - something could be keeping the computer awake (it should go into standby mode when everything is off), or you could have something as simple as a under hood light, trunk light, or glove box light stuck on.
After confirming a good battery and alternator, I would follow the advice earlier in this thread of using an ammeter to check the parasitic load with the key off and all doors closed.
One tip I'd like to add for that is that you need to keep the ammeter hooked up for a few minutes with everything off and all doors closed and everything off. Load will probably be high at first because everything will wake up when power is reconnected. A shop manual will help with this process since it should list what an acceptable load would be, and if you need to do anything special to test it (on some cars, for example, the hood switch for the security system may have to be closed or disconnected for the computers to go into standby mode). It should also list how long it takes for the computers to go into standby. Also, opening any doors or any other disturbances may wake one or more computer and you'll have to start all over with your tests.
Electrical diagrams will also help with this process if you have them, assuming you find a fault in the system with the parasitic load test.
After confirming a good battery and alternator, I would follow the advice earlier in this thread of using an ammeter to check the parasitic load with the key off and all doors closed.
One tip I'd like to add for that is that you need to keep the ammeter hooked up for a few minutes with everything off and all doors closed and everything off. Load will probably be high at first because everything will wake up when power is reconnected. A shop manual will help with this process since it should list what an acceptable load would be, and if you need to do anything special to test it (on some cars, for example, the hood switch for the security system may have to be closed or disconnected for the computers to go into standby mode). It should also list how long it takes for the computers to go into standby. Also, opening any doors or any other disturbances may wake one or more computer and you'll have to start all over with your tests.
Electrical diagrams will also help with this process if you have them, assuming you find a fault in the system with the parasitic load test.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
If you can't wait that long you could hook up an AMP meter around the positive wire and start pulling fuses until you see the amps drop off to almost 0 and that will be your circuit.
Steve
I would suspect the aftermarket dvd. also do you have xm or sirius radio? also, some of the power outlets/cigarette lighters have constant power and if you have a radar detector or other device plugged in, it could be the cause.
If you can't wait that long you could hook up an AMP meter around the positive wire and start pulling fuses until you see the amps drop off to almost 0 and that will be your circuit.
Steve
I would suspect the aftermarket dvd. also do you have xm or sirius radio? also, some of the power outlets/cigarette lighters have constant power and if you have a radar detector or other device plugged in, it could be the cause.
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