Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
Unload it.
What would you do, repair or dump it?
- Thread starter Huie83
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In California it would be a rebuild tranny and keep going. In Minnesota it would be a replacement due to rust.
Originally Posted by Or
Quote
Thanks, I haven't tried to drop the pan yet. Last drain and fill after it started to act up I did add a bottle of Lubegard Red. It did seem to help for a few thousand miles. Now it's worse than it's ever been. Lazy shifts and flares into 4th. It is FWD.
My first instinct is that there's just a few hundred dollars of parts there, and a few afternoons with the tool kit. If you are opposed to DIY maintenance, high-mileage cars are forever going to be problematic for you. And this is a very easy one for DIY work, honestly.
The 2006 Sienna has the 3mz-fe engine and the U151E transmission. A more bullet-proof powertrain is hard to find. We have 300k now on one and it runs like new, given proper maintenance. I have to wonder if a) the transmission fill is being checked properly, as low fluid can cause the problem. The transmission needs to be checked while running. Does this one have the dipstick or is it after the deletion? Also, does it have an aftermarket filter installed? These have caused this problem, also. On the lifter tick - these engines can make some noise. I do periodic lube system flushes to keep it quiet, and I use Mobil 1 10w-30HM. I doubt it really needs valve adjustment, though I am certain you can find a mechanic who will listen to it and tell you that, and happily take your money.
The spark plugs in the engine are *conservatively* rated at 120k I believe. And they can go longer. I would put them off until 150k and do the valve cover gaskets at the same time. There is no need to change plugs right now. I did not see any mention of the timing belt being done, which is more important north of 100k.
It does have a dipstick. For my drain and fills I've been draining cold and measuring the fluid that comes out, refilling with the same amount. Then I drive it for 30+ minutes, mixed highway and city to get it up to temp. Pull in the garage leave it in running in park when checking it. It's right below the upper hot mark. I've checked it in between drains too, always the same reading.
Also a few comments about it being a MN vehicle. No rust yet.
I do spray the under body and in the doors etc with Fluid Film fall and spring.
Quote
Thanks, I haven't tried to drop the pan yet. Last drain and fill after it started to act up I did add a bottle of Lubegard Red. It did seem to help for a few thousand miles. Now it's worse than it's ever been. Lazy shifts and flares into 4th. It is FWD.
My first instinct is that there's just a few hundred dollars of parts there, and a few afternoons with the tool kit. If you are opposed to DIY maintenance, high-mileage cars are forever going to be problematic for you. And this is a very easy one for DIY work, honestly.
The 2006 Sienna has the 3mz-fe engine and the U151E transmission. A more bullet-proof powertrain is hard to find. We have 300k now on one and it runs like new, given proper maintenance. I have to wonder if a) the transmission fill is being checked properly, as low fluid can cause the problem. The transmission needs to be checked while running. Does this one have the dipstick or is it after the deletion? Also, does it have an aftermarket filter installed? These have caused this problem, also. On the lifter tick - these engines can make some noise. I do periodic lube system flushes to keep it quiet, and I use Mobil 1 10w-30HM. I doubt it really needs valve adjustment, though I am certain you can find a mechanic who will listen to it and tell you that, and happily take your money.
The spark plugs in the engine are *conservatively* rated at 120k I believe. And they can go longer. I would put them off until 150k and do the valve cover gaskets at the same time. There is no need to change plugs right now. I did not see any mention of the timing belt being done, which is more important north of 100k.
It does have a dipstick. For my drain and fills I've been draining cold and measuring the fluid that comes out, refilling with the same amount. Then I drive it for 30+ minutes, mixed highway and city to get it up to temp. Pull in the garage leave it in running in park when checking it. It's right below the upper hot mark. I've checked it in between drains too, always the same reading.
Also a few comments about it being a MN vehicle. No rust yet.
How about putting a Magnefine filter in the trans cooler line? There is a recent post where this cured a shifting problem. Total cost 25 dollars and two hours easy work. I would do a pan drop and put in a factory trans filter as well.
I'm usually a fix-it guy but given everything you said I would let it go early. Besides they can roll in whatever you still owe into the next loan and over 5-6 years that won't add much more to the payment at all.
Originally Posted by nthach
Plugs are a royal PITA to do on a tranverse V6 unless it's a Honda, Ford Vulcan/Essex or Chrysler non-Pentastar V6 which doesn't need the intake to be pulled or can be done on a lift.
Highly disagree with this statement. GM 3800 in most applications is a 15 minute job, as is the VQ30DE shoehorned into my Maxima, plus countless other engines whose plugs I have replaced on a transverse V6. Even many examples where you have to remove the upper intake, it's still a piece of cake. Ford Duratec 3.0 takes less than a half hour with intake removal, as does the 4.0L SOHC Chrysler engine. Worse plug job I've ever done was on a longitudinal V6-- the VG33ER from Nissan.
Plugs are a royal PITA to do on a tranverse V6 unless it's a Honda, Ford Vulcan/Essex or Chrysler non-Pentastar V6 which doesn't need the intake to be pulled or can be done on a lift.
Highly disagree with this statement. GM 3800 in most applications is a 15 minute job, as is the VQ30DE shoehorned into my Maxima, plus countless other engines whose plugs I have replaced on a transverse V6. Even many examples where you have to remove the upper intake, it's still a piece of cake. Ford Duratec 3.0 takes less than a half hour with intake removal, as does the 4.0L SOHC Chrysler engine. Worse plug job I've ever done was on a longitudinal V6-- the VG33ER from Nissan.
Originally Posted by Huie83
It shifts great when cold, nice clean crisp shifts. It's only after driving for about 30+ minutes and it's fully warmed up that it starts shifting really lazy/sligish and the flairs/missing gear's happens. That's really what it feels like, its missing gears between shifts. It goes to shift, kind of bucks a little bit and then clunks into gear, it's weird.
That is exactly how mine occasionally shifts. It doesn't do this every time it shifts, but it will usually do this every time I drive it at least once. It has been doing this since it was new. I fussed at the dealer about this several times when I took it in for the recalls and it was still under the powertrain warranty. They told me that it was normal. It hasn't really gotten any worse in 177k miles but it is annoying.
The computer controls the shifting on this transmission along with several engine performance parameters every time it shifts. Do this, disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes so the computer forgets your driving style. Drive it then and see how it acts. Every time that I have done this the shifting improves for awhile.
Originally Posted by Huie83
I'll prob bring it in to have it looked at before making the call.
I wouldn't count on getting a valid call on this from anyone who stands to profit from a repair.
It shifts great when cold, nice clean crisp shifts. It's only after driving for about 30+ minutes and it's fully warmed up that it starts shifting really lazy/sligish and the flairs/missing gear's happens. That's really what it feels like, its missing gears between shifts. It goes to shift, kind of bucks a little bit and then clunks into gear, it's weird.
That is exactly how mine occasionally shifts. It doesn't do this every time it shifts, but it will usually do this every time I drive it at least once. It has been doing this since it was new. I fussed at the dealer about this several times when I took it in for the recalls and it was still under the powertrain warranty. They told me that it was normal. It hasn't really gotten any worse in 177k miles but it is annoying.
The computer controls the shifting on this transmission along with several engine performance parameters every time it shifts. Do this, disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes so the computer forgets your driving style. Drive it then and see how it acts. Every time that I have done this the shifting improves for awhile.
Originally Posted by Huie83
I'll prob bring it in to have it looked at before making the call.
I wouldn't count on getting a valid call on this from anyone who stands to profit from a repair.
Are you positive something is wrong with the transmission? Did it do it at 80k when you got it, or is this something new? Either way, stop draining the ATF so often. 4 times in 20k miles is crazy and asking for trouble. Just drive it. Cost=0
Exhaust rattles or is blown out and makes huge amount of noise due to open exhaust? From your description, it Rattles.=secure it, cost=0
Rear brake pads are probably 80-90 bucks at toyota. If you need resurface (which I wont do, would just buy new rotors), Toyota usually has a special of 199.99 or 249.00 per axle. Lets go cost=249
Tires in the spring? So you are in Minnesota, and from what you wrote, almost have worn out tires since you will need new in spring. So you are going to run close to worn out tires through fall and winter, to change in spring? No, if the tires will get you through fall and winter safe, I am going to think they would then be fine for spring/summer, and then get new next fall. But whatever, lets go with 600 bucks
Spark plugs. Unless you are getting real bad mpg compared to spec, then forget it. Runs smooth, good mpg, no. cost=0
Valve tick? Umm, really though?. Kind of doubt it. Leave it, no cost.
CD player. So what, if you still listen to cd's, plug a portable one into the auxiliary port. No cost cause you most likely have one. If not, like under 20 bucks.
Rear air, give more info. Does it blow, but not cold? Or does it not blow air? Thinking cost will equal zero.
249+600+20=869, and thats even if you need the tires. Who cares about tires, most used cars you will be looking at will need them too. So 869 and you need to figure out the air situation. And now add in you said in your post that you will do the brakes, exhaust, and other stuff. So now:
90+600+20=710
710 plus figure out air issue is a lot cheaper than another used car. And a lot cheaper than your estimate of 5k?? Do as you wish, but I say keep it.
Exhaust rattles or is blown out and makes huge amount of noise due to open exhaust? From your description, it Rattles.=secure it, cost=0
Rear brake pads are probably 80-90 bucks at toyota. If you need resurface (which I wont do, would just buy new rotors), Toyota usually has a special of 199.99 or 249.00 per axle. Lets go cost=249
Tires in the spring? So you are in Minnesota, and from what you wrote, almost have worn out tires since you will need new in spring. So you are going to run close to worn out tires through fall and winter, to change in spring? No, if the tires will get you through fall and winter safe, I am going to think they would then be fine for spring/summer, and then get new next fall. But whatever, lets go with 600 bucks
Spark plugs. Unless you are getting real bad mpg compared to spec, then forget it. Runs smooth, good mpg, no. cost=0
Valve tick? Umm, really though?. Kind of doubt it. Leave it, no cost.
CD player. So what, if you still listen to cd's, plug a portable one into the auxiliary port. No cost cause you most likely have one. If not, like under 20 bucks.
Rear air, give more info. Does it blow, but not cold? Or does it not blow air? Thinking cost will equal zero.
249+600+20=869, and thats even if you need the tires. Who cares about tires, most used cars you will be looking at will need them too. So 869 and you need to figure out the air situation. And now add in you said in your post that you will do the brakes, exhaust, and other stuff. So now:
90+600+20=710
710 plus figure out air issue is a lot cheaper than another used car. And a lot cheaper than your estimate of 5k?? Do as you wish, but I say keep it.
But its a Toyota, they go 200K miles trouble free!
Joking aside, you may be able to get a good used transmission dropped in. Some of the other issues you mentioned are regular maintenance items. This model year isn't as bulletproof as the previous Sienna, but it should be able to last you more than 100K.
Joking aside, you may be able to get a good used transmission dropped in. Some of the other issues you mentioned are regular maintenance items. This model year isn't as bulletproof as the previous Sienna, but it should be able to last you more than 100K.
$4-5K for what are mostly fairly cheap wear item replacements?
Nah.
I'd do a proper pan drop and filter change on the transaxle and call it good, as it probably will be.
The Sienna is the gold standard among minivans.
I'd doubt that yours is ready to scrap at only 102K.
It is possible that the ODO was reset to a couple of hundred K less than actual use, of course.
This can be done with the right software and there are those who will do it for the right coin if they know you or whomever recommends you for the service.
This does make way over mileage lease returns a lot less painful and I've known people who've paid to have it done.
Nah.
I'd do a proper pan drop and filter change on the transaxle and call it good, as it probably will be.
The Sienna is the gold standard among minivans.
I'd doubt that yours is ready to scrap at only 102K.
It is possible that the ODO was reset to a couple of hundred K less than actual use, of course.
This can be done with the right software and there are those who will do it for the right coin if they know you or whomever recommends you for the service.
This does make way over mileage lease returns a lot less painful and I've known people who've paid to have it done.
Originally Posted by Huie83
It does have a dipstick. For my drain and fills I've been draining cold and measuring the fluid that comes out, refilling with the same amount. Then I drive it for 30+ minutes, mixed highway and city to get it up to temp. Pull in the garage leave it in running in park when checking it. It's right below the upper hot mark. I've checked it in between drains too, always the same reading.
Also a few comments about it being a MN vehicle. No rust yet.
I do spray the under body and in the doors etc with Fluid Film fall and spring.
My transmission would be 1/2 to 1 qt low with that check method (same U151E in a Lexus sedan). Even though it's recommended, and would work fine with my other cars w/dipsticks. I've found an inconsistency on these. I think it's because of splash in the tube end giving a false high reading. Other owners have noted this, not just my unique case. Also, driving it 1/2 hour will get it WAY over the recommended check temperature. Just let it idle 5 to 10 minutes. Also, has the pan ever been opened and the filter changed?
Let it warm w/o driving it and check the temp. Simply replacing to factory fill also sounds like a solid move, but they can be low from the factory as has been seen often. No kidding. If I check mine warm, not driven vs. driven is a noticeable difference. It baffled me for a long time until I figured out the trick. Worth trying, because as many have mentioned, a transmission issue with that unit and mileage is very, very rare.
It does have a dipstick. For my drain and fills I've been draining cold and measuring the fluid that comes out, refilling with the same amount. Then I drive it for 30+ minutes, mixed highway and city to get it up to temp. Pull in the garage leave it in running in park when checking it. It's right below the upper hot mark. I've checked it in between drains too, always the same reading.
Also a few comments about it being a MN vehicle. No rust yet.
My transmission would be 1/2 to 1 qt low with that check method (same U151E in a Lexus sedan). Even though it's recommended, and would work fine with my other cars w/dipsticks. I've found an inconsistency on these. I think it's because of splash in the tube end giving a false high reading. Other owners have noted this, not just my unique case. Also, driving it 1/2 hour will get it WAY over the recommended check temperature. Just let it idle 5 to 10 minutes. Also, has the pan ever been opened and the filter changed?
Let it warm w/o driving it and check the temp. Simply replacing to factory fill also sounds like a solid move, but they can be low from the factory as has been seen often. No kidding. If I check mine warm, not driven vs. driven is a noticeable difference. It baffled me for a long time until I figured out the trick. Worth trying, because as many have mentioned, a transmission issue with that unit and mileage is very, very rare.
Originally Posted by nthach
You're not gonna get very much - Uber has hosed Toyota resale if you're near a decently sized city.
Huh, really? Is this because a lot of occasional drivers are opting out of ownership, and instead using Uber when they need to? Taking demand out of the marketplace?
I hadn't heard that (or priced used cars much lately), but I could see it working that way.
You're not gonna get very much - Uber has hosed Toyota resale if you're near a decently sized city.
Huh, really? Is this because a lot of occasional drivers are opting out of ownership, and instead using Uber when they need to? Taking demand out of the marketplace?
I hadn't heard that (or priced used cars much lately), but I could see it working that way.
Looks like the van was purchased two years ago 10/16. Van looked like it was in real good shape when purchased but it was 10 years old. Pan drop with new filter would be ideal. Also this from another thread by the OP:
Originally Posted by The Critic
If the car was here, I would scan the car with Techstream to see if there are updated calibration files available for the TCM. Some of the early 3MZ-FE's with the 5-speed auto have an updated calibration available for shift quality issues.
Originally Posted by The Critic
If the car was here, I would scan the car with Techstream to see if there are updated calibration files available for the TCM. Some of the early 3MZ-FE's with the 5-speed auto have an updated calibration available for shift quality issues.
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If you have to pay for all of that, ditch the vehicle. If you can do the rear brakes and the spark plugs do that and change the trans fluid. Pay to have the mid-pipe changed or repaired.
If the trans goes, a junkyard swap and keep driving. The valve tick won't hurt anything, leave it be. Is the rear air a fan problem or a air movement blend door problem? You can clean the condenser yourself.
All this depends on how mechanically inclined you are, and how badly you want to avoid another vehicle purchase.
If the trans goes, a junkyard swap and keep driving. The valve tick won't hurt anything, leave it be. Is the rear air a fan problem or a air movement blend door problem? You can clean the condenser yourself.
All this depends on how mechanically inclined you are, and how badly you want to avoid another vehicle purchase.
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Plus the OP has another vehicle with issues. From another thread and part of the bigger picture.
Originally Posted by Huie83
I have been maintaining our 2010 Impala for the past 5 years and close to 100K. It's at around 130K miles now, is starting to show it's age and well... I'm sick of working on it.
Some more serious issues have all popped up the past year or so:
- The airbag light is on.
- The rear defrost stopped working.
- The trans is starting to not shift so great. I slapped a shift kit in it and flushed the fluid which helped a lot. Still slips sometimes on start so I know it's not healthy.
- The struts all need to be replaced soon. The passenger front sits lower that he driver side by about 3/4 inch.
- What I think is the sway bar end links in the rear are clunking around over bumps.
- Drivers side CV output seal is leaking trans fluid.
- Valve covers are weeping.
- Needs new tires this year and an alignment.
- Front doors are starting to rust on the bottom inside where the door skin folds over the frame.
- Needs a coolant flush, its on factory orange fill.
- Front end starting to feel loose and clunky over bumps. I'm sure tie rod ends and or ball joints need to be looked into. Starting to cause uneven tire wear.
The stuff above is on top of what I did this past year:
- Rotors and pads all around.
- Replaced Evap solenoid and purge solenoid.
- Tune up ( plugs, air filter, serp belt)
- Air blend door motor.
Question is, how do I convince my wife it's time to dump it while it's still worth a little money? I've tried to relay that it needs substantial work and isn't worth it, but the vehicle has sentimental value to her. It was the first car she ever purchased on her own and she just wants to keep throwing money at it. The list of things it needs compared to how little it's worth makes justifying fixing it very hard to me.
Should I make a list of all the things it needs and the cost VS putting that into a newer used vehicle? Stop maintaining it and drive it till it breaks then junk it? What's worked for you in the past?
Originally Posted by Huie83
I have been maintaining our 2010 Impala for the past 5 years and close to 100K. It's at around 130K miles now, is starting to show it's age and well... I'm sick of working on it.
Some more serious issues have all popped up the past year or so:
- The airbag light is on.
- The rear defrost stopped working.
- The trans is starting to not shift so great. I slapped a shift kit in it and flushed the fluid which helped a lot. Still slips sometimes on start so I know it's not healthy.
- The struts all need to be replaced soon. The passenger front sits lower that he driver side by about 3/4 inch.
- What I think is the sway bar end links in the rear are clunking around over bumps.
- Drivers side CV output seal is leaking trans fluid.
- Valve covers are weeping.
- Needs new tires this year and an alignment.
- Front doors are starting to rust on the bottom inside where the door skin folds over the frame.
- Needs a coolant flush, its on factory orange fill.
- Front end starting to feel loose and clunky over bumps. I'm sure tie rod ends and or ball joints need to be looked into. Starting to cause uneven tire wear.
The stuff above is on top of what I did this past year:
- Rotors and pads all around.
- Replaced Evap solenoid and purge solenoid.
- Tune up ( plugs, air filter, serp belt)
- Air blend door motor.
Question is, how do I convince my wife it's time to dump it while it's still worth a little money? I've tried to relay that it needs substantial work and isn't worth it, but the vehicle has sentimental value to her. It was the first car she ever purchased on her own and she just wants to keep throwing money at it. The list of things it needs compared to how little it's worth makes justifying fixing it very hard to me.
Should I make a list of all the things it needs and the cost VS putting that into a newer used vehicle? Stop maintaining it and drive it till it breaks then junk it? What's worked for you in the past?
I'd spend 5k to keep from spending 20-40k but that's me. At 200k miles I'd be more inclined to dump it.
Agree with the DIY keep it alive suggestion. If you can do a lot of the stuff then it is parts only.
Call local mechanics ans see what a decent used tranny installed tuns, just in case.
Otherwise, check local dealerships and see if they will work with you.
Hertz car sales has helped me out.
Call local mechanics ans see what a decent used tranny installed tuns, just in case.
Otherwise, check local dealerships and see if they will work with you.
Hertz car sales has helped me out.
We had a 2002 Sienna (sold it in 2015 for a new Sienna) with 225000 miles. Watch out you will have O2 sensors starting to go, and you will need a new CAT Converter (not cheap). BUT the vehicle should go for at least 200000 miles!
Originally Posted by gregk24
But its a Toyota, they go 200K miles trouble free!
Joking aside, you may be able to get a good used transmission dropped in. Some of the other issues you mentioned are regular maintenance items. This model year isn't as bulletproof as the previous Sienna, but it should be able to last you more than 100K.
Even 200K isn't that many miles on a WELL MAINTAINED Sienna, or any Toyota for that matter. I suspect this particular Sienna has not been well maintained, and I would also guess the tranny fluid has never been changed, which is why the tranny is going out. My '04 Corolla now has 350K miles and is still going strong, but I have kept up on all of the fluid and filter changes. Do this with any Toyota and 300K is easily doable...
But its a Toyota, they go 200K miles trouble free!
Joking aside, you may be able to get a good used transmission dropped in. Some of the other issues you mentioned are regular maintenance items. This model year isn't as bulletproof as the previous Sienna, but it should be able to last you more than 100K.
Even 200K isn't that many miles on a WELL MAINTAINED Sienna, or any Toyota for that matter. I suspect this particular Sienna has not been well maintained, and I would also guess the tranny fluid has never been changed, which is why the tranny is going out. My '04 Corolla now has 350K miles and is still going strong, but I have kept up on all of the fluid and filter changes. Do this with any Toyota and 300K is easily doable...
I vote to keep. A newer car is almost always going to cost you more.
Rear AC issues in Minnesota - I personally would roll the windows down. Rear AC issues in Texas, or really anywhere in the South, safety issue, fix immediately. But then again I've lived in Texas for almost 30 years. Oregon native though. We never had a car with AC until we moved down here. How much weather over 90 do you have where you live? If it's 5-15 days a year, like I had in Oregon growing up - ignore the rear AC.
Engine tick on startup - ignore, lots of cars have that. Try a different oil or different filter.
Midpipe - safety issue, pay exhaust shop to fix.
Rear brakes - DIY, get new rotors while you're at at, the cost delta between resurfacing and new is not very much anymore.
Tires - all cars need tires eventually. Sunk cost of driving. Replace them.
The transmission is the hard one. Take some of the advice from the people here and try to patch it up. If it starts slipping while driving - see if you can locate a low mileage used one, that's going to be much cheaper than a rebuild.
Rear AC issues in Minnesota - I personally would roll the windows down. Rear AC issues in Texas, or really anywhere in the South, safety issue, fix immediately. But then again I've lived in Texas for almost 30 years. Oregon native though. We never had a car with AC until we moved down here. How much weather over 90 do you have where you live? If it's 5-15 days a year, like I had in Oregon growing up - ignore the rear AC.
Engine tick on startup - ignore, lots of cars have that. Try a different oil or different filter.
Midpipe - safety issue, pay exhaust shop to fix.
Rear brakes - DIY, get new rotors while you're at at, the cost delta between resurfacing and new is not very much anymore.
Tires - all cars need tires eventually. Sunk cost of driving. Replace them.
The transmission is the hard one. Take some of the advice from the people here and try to patch it up. If it starts slipping while driving - see if you can locate a low mileage used one, that's going to be much cheaper than a rebuild.
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