What would synthetic have added

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4WD

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Texas/Other via IAH
Test case at 400k on GM truck. No engine or trans issues ever.
Driver is not a Gearhead - does nothing mechanics do. In fact, he is lazy.
Always Mobil 5w30 dino (bulk lube + cheap filter). $39.95 (5k OCI) - HM after 200-something...
If same truck started now with promotional PP/UOA - I'm betting he'd see better UOA results.
This spring I had Pennzoil Platinum done at a lube place - it was $80 for same motor. So he'd have to drive it twice as much to break even. (Some time savings, but they vacuum and check fluids & filters). He would not - I had to push him from 3k to 5k ... Refusing to go longer is why I told him to stay dino super. (I am mechical advisor, he's desperate).
Truck now needs suspension work and interior looks rough - wholesale to the southern boarder around here.
Beginning of the end - What do you think he'd have gained from PP or other synthetic ?
 
Nothing relevant. Has he had any oil related issues or work done? If not nothing would of been gained.. reality is, something else will fail far before most engines.
 
Probably nothing...maybe he could have gone with longer OCIs, but dino was probably perfect for him because he wanted to keep them short.
The rest of the truck fell apart before the engine, just like should happen with routine maintenance!
I say your friend won...
 
I would guess a cleaner engine but it worked dirty, so not a big deal.
Our trucks always rusted out or the suspension wore out before the engine did no matter the oil in them.
 
( I am mechanical advisor, he's desperate)

That's funny here. I would gladly listen to what you would have to say and I am would not be desperate.

I agree with you that running a synthetic oil would've gained nothing. $80 for a oil change is (plus a Ray Charles vacuuming job) and ancillary fluid checks, tire pressure checks etc is a bit steep. I know some other vehicles it's over $100 plus... crazy. I agree with staying with the $39.99 conventional changes. I'm glad to do my own Havoline Pro DS, Formula Shell, Castrol Magnatec changes and my own Ray Charles vacuuming job for less than $30 and sometimes less than $20 at times.
 
TX is not the place or the weather to worry about thinner 0W 0r 5W synthetic oils. Motor gets plenty hot enough for water vapor to be gone. Dino oil is fine. Worked for 100 years, will be around a long time.

Minnesota or Wisconsin, I'd do something else... Out here and down there, just keep on keepin on
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
TX is not the place or the weather to worry about thinner 0W 0r 5W synthetic oils. Motor gets plenty hot enough for water vapor to be gone. Dino oil is fine. Worked for 100 years, will be around a long time.

Minnesota or Wisconsin, I'd do something else... Out here and down there, just keep on keepin on
smile.gif



^^This^^
 
Nothing lube related - had wheel bearings, an alternator/belts, brakes, tires ...
Was doing BG flush on 4L60e ...
In the end, he did better than me - (other than 90% I DIY for $40 w/ M1 or PP)
I'll stick with synthetic on my two GDI's - and give it up on my two that are not ...
 
For that type of motor just longer OCIs. Syn is best for turbos, heavily modified motors, motors known for sludge, and longer OCIs. GMs motors, esp their trucks, will usually go forever with just basic upkeep.
The HM oil was probably a semi-syn but its best attributes is the stronger additive package.
 
Not suggesting UOA's at all ... I don't do them since I don't run over 7500 OCI's on high spec oils (OLM's barking) ...
And if I go to 5k on Dino - there is enough empirical evidence out there - So I'll just spend the money on jugs.
... don't own anything special to start with ...
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
( I am mechanical advisor, he's desperate)

That's funny here. I would gladly listen to what you would have to say and I am would not be desperate.

I agree with you that running a synthetic oil would've gained nothing. $80 for a oil change is (plus a Ray Charles vacuuming job) and ancillary fluid checks, tire pressure checks etc is a bit steep. I know some other vehicles it's over $100 plus... crazy. I agree with staying with the $39.99 conventional changes. I'm glad to do my own Havoline Pro DS, Formula Shell, Castrol Magnatec changes and my own Ray Charles vacuuming job for less than $30 and sometimes less than $20 at times.


Wow. I can change the oil in my vehicles with full syn and stay at the under $40 price you mention. Yes, including filter. I realize you must be referring to quickie lube places or something.
 
TT: I had the quick lube do it while doing cancer treatments - I'm back inside the wooden ramps again ...
(</=$40 again)
 
Well, I can do M1 or PP with either an M1 or Fram Ultra filter for around ten bucks simply chasing store deals stacked with MIRs.
This is the reason that I favor synthetic oil. You can get it so darn cheaply.
In the case of this truck, synthetic oil and better filters would clearly have brought nothing to the party.
 
Ohh absolutely Tired Trucker. That's a correct analysis there. I can easily do my oil changes for $20-35 full synthetic. I can't imagine paying $60-100 for a synthetic oil change..
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
This spring I had Pennzoil Platinum done at a lube place - it was $80 for same motor.

The fact that I can do my own oil change using synthetic oil and a premium filter for less than what a quickie lube place or dealer would charge me for a conventional change has kept me at it for the last 30 years. It's my way of rationalizing my behavior, and it makes me feel good in the process. To each his own I suppose.

Perhaps it would be better if you would rephrase your questions to ask what he might have saved by changing his own oil. That math is is pretty easy given 400K miles with a 5K OCI.
 
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