08 Toy Tundra 5.7L - What Oil Would you Recommend?

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The manual says 0W20 / 5W20...but name the specific oil you would choose given my conditions.

2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7L

Miles on unit: 43k

Yota recommends 5k OCI in the manual and does not differentiate between Syn and Dino for the OCI. I believe the newer Tundra manuals (2009-2012) state 10k OCI for Syn and 5k for dino. All 5.7L engines are the same in model years 2007-2012.

I live in Ft. Worth, TX.

I drive mostly easy but I lead foot it everyonce in a while. Some WOT...but not very much. Mostly Highway miles at the moment. My work commute is either 20 miles each way or 60 miles each way, depending on the day. Some short trips here and there.

Currently, I am not towing. This is just a daily driver.

My preference: Synthetic with extended OCI, best wear during OCI, while getting best ROI...if possible. Oh, and I am fine doing UOA along the way. The goal is to keep this truck for greater than 200k miles, and to keep the engine in good shape.

Thanks.

-Dave
 
Mobil 1 0w20 or Mobil 1 EP 5w20. If you buy it at Walmart, it comes out to $5.79 qt per 5qt jug. Tough to beat.
 
The UOA you did on Amsoil OE looked to be doing well. I'm currently trying to decide If I wanna switch to 0w20 In my hemi. I use Amsoil OE in it. So far I like the OE, just trying to decide on 5w20 or 0w20.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Mobil 1 0w20 or Mobil 1 EP 5w20. If you buy it at Walmart, it comes out to $5.79 qt per 5qt jug. Tough to beat.


You mean $5.79 per quart, right?
 
There is not much difference between an 0/20 and a 5/20. If they are of the same basic type and company, the 0/20 will give a fractional reduction in cold start wear factors, but the 5/20 will last slightly longer.
If you want to be fussy, try the 0/20 in winter and the 5/20 in summer or just mix the two and make 2.5/20!
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
The UOA you did on Amsoil OE looked to be doing well. I'm currently trying to decide If I wanna switch to 0w20 In my hemi. I use Amsoil OE in it. So far I like the OE, just trying to decide on 5w20 or 0w20.


Well, I used the 0W rating because I don't understand the advantages to using 5W. I mean, it is still a 20 grade oil right, so why not have the better wear protection of a 0W at start up? I may need to be pointed to another thread to read understand this better, if I am wrong.

To stay on this topic, I liked to the look of the Amsoil OE at 4.8k miles and will run it again for 7,500 miles. Maybe that UOA will suggest it can be ran longer. I think it is helpful that most of my driving is highway long trips right now.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
There is not much difference between an 0/20 and a 5/20. If they are of the same basic type and company, the 0/20 will give a fractional reduction in cold start wear factors, but the 5/20 will last slightly longer.
If you want to be fussy, try the 0/20 in winter and the 5/20 in summer or just mix the two and make 2.5/20!


Cool, so I know the Amsoil OE is decent. The M1 gets lots of praise. What others?
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
There is not much difference between an 0/20 and a 5/20. If they are of the same basic type and company, the 0/20 will give a fractional reduction in cold start wear factors, but the 5/20 will last slightly longer.
If you want to be fussy, try the 0/20 in winter and the 5/20 in summer or just mix the two and make 2.5/20!


5w20 will last longer? Ahhh not true
 
Why don't you try the Toyota 0W-20 and see how it works for you? That's what I'll do in my 2012 4 Runner. If all is well, I'll stay with it. If the engine doesn't like it, then I'll try something else.
 
My vote would be Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20/5W-20 if you are looking for extended drain intervals.

How many miles a year do you put on?
 
Minimum 15k miles/year...but currently I am at a rate closer to 25k/year. It is not known how long I will put miles on at this rate but it could be for another 8 months or so.
 
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
I don't know how cost effective it is to buy Toyota oil from the stealership.


I was able to talk the parts guy down to $6.50/qt (yes, it is negotiable). I bought some filters too at a reasonable price ($4/filter) while I was there too. Those prices seemed competitive with auto part store prices for group III synthetics by the quart and cartridge filters even cheaper.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
I don't know how cost effective it is to buy Toyota oil from the stealership.


I was able to talk the parts guy down to $6.50/qt (yes, it is negotiable). I bought some filters too at a reasonable price ($4/filter) while I was there too. Those prices seemed competitive with auto part store prices for group III synthetics by the quart and cartridge filters even cheaper.


Did you ask what oil you were buying that was re-branded to "Toyota Genuine"? I hear it is usually Mobil but not sure exactly which Mobil. Also heard Valvoline...maybe others?
 
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
I don't know how cost effective it is to buy Toyota oil from the stealership.


I was able to talk the parts guy down to $6.50/qt (yes, it is negotiable). I bought some filters too at a reasonable price ($4/filter) while I was there too. Those prices seemed competitive with auto part store prices for group III synthetics by the quart and cartridge filters even cheaper.


Did you ask what oil you were buying that was re-branded to "Toyota Genuine"? I hear it is usually Mobil but not sure exactly which Mobil. Also heard Valvoline...maybe others?


I was not aware that TGMO was rebadged anything. I suspect that whoever they are contracted with this year is who makes it for them to Toyota specifications, just like all their geniune parts. Where did you get the information that it's rebadged?

The Toyota Dealerships in my area use Valvoline lubricants in their express lube shops. If you want TGMO, you'll have to pay extra. But that's if the parts department even has TGMO. My dealership didn't have any when I bought my 4Runner last May. I went to another dealership to buy it.

I'm not a 0W-20 fan nor a TGMO fan. If I wasn't concerned about a warranty on a new vehicle, I'd be using 5W-30 or 10W-30 from the start, and work from there. Losing 0.2-0.4 MPG wouldn't even be noticed at these gas prices.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: DavesTundra
I don't know how cost effective it is to buy Toyota oil from the stealership.


I was able to talk the parts guy down to $6.50/qt (yes, it is negotiable). I bought some filters too at a reasonable price ($4/filter) while I was there too. Those prices seemed competitive with auto part store prices for group III synthetics by the quart and cartridge filters even cheaper.


Did you ask what oil you were buying that was re-branded to "Toyota Genuine"? I hear it is usually Mobil but not sure exactly which Mobil. Also heard Valvoline...maybe others?


I was not aware that TGMO was rebadged anything. I suspect that whoever they are contracted with this year is who makes it for them to Toyota specifications, just like all their geniune parts. Where did you get the information that it's rebadged?

The Toyota Dealerships in my area use Valvoline lubricants in their express lube shops. If you want TGMO, you'll have to pay extra. But that's if the parts department even has TGMO. My dealership didn't have any when I bought my 4Runner last May. I went to another dealership to buy it.

I'm not a 0W-20 fan nor a TGMO fan. If I wasn't concerned about a warranty on a new vehicle, I'd be using 5W-30 or 10W-30 from the start, and work from there. Losing 0.2-0.4 MPG wouldn't even be noticed at these gas prices.


Cool. I am with you on the 30 weight. But maybe I'm wrong by saying "re-badged". I guess I should say, is their contract with Mobil? If so, is it very near the same as any Mobil product that you can buy off the shelf?

Honestly, I am leaning toward giving Mobile 0W30 AFE a shot. I wonder if it will hold up longer than 10k miles for me.
 
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I like the 0W-30 plan for you in the Tundra. How do the Mobil oxidation and TAN increase rates look compared with Amsoil 0W-30 rates on extended service. Does either thicken or shear significantly? Or, do they both hold their original Kv and HTHSv well? Does fuel dilution change either lube less than the other?
 
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