What would be proper oil???

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2004 BMW 325I M56 engine......belongs to a buddys new gf..owners manual says castrol 5w30 or 5w40......last week engine started ticking with ALOT of valvetrain noise from loss of oil pressure...oil level ok....removed oil filter and it was all crunched up and squished from being plugged up....changed oil and filter (fram)2x last week with 5w30 pyb just to get something decent into it...obviously the engine is a sludged up mess...just trying to figure out the proper oil to put in it....very short oil/filter change intervals will be used from here on out...
 
Ya knew pyb didnt but just wanted something to put in it short term....whats available at the usual places wm az oriellys that is specd fir bmw?
 
Non-M BMWs call for synthetic oil 5W30 or 5W40 that meets BMW LL-01 spec. Obviously 0W30 and 0W40 can be used. When it says 5W30 it's referring to Euro-spec 5W30, that's why PYB and other commonly found 5W30 don't meet the spec.

Mobil1 0W40 will be available at WM and is a very good oil.
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
This product has many good comments on BITOG for cleaning a sludged up engine. You might give that a try with a couple filters and some dino oil first.

http://www.auto-rx.com/sludge-oil-burning.shtml

Then once you've treated the engine, use a Euro spec 5w-40 synthetic and good filter from that point on.


Ehhhh. .. Auto-Rx is kinda scammy. The guy on here did some stuff and now nobody likes him, his product. Or Jacksonville Beach, FL. Right, Frank?
 
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Ya knew pyb didnt but just wanted something to put in it short term....whats available at the usual places wm az oriellys that is specd fir bmw?


11 year old, possibly poorly maintained non-turbo engine...

I'll throw this one out there... Rotella T 10w30... cheap, on the thick side viscosity wise for a 30 grade, and should clean well...keep the OCI short, and see what happens. That engine may not have much life left, given what you described.

I don't think I would pay for a top tier synthetic yet...
 
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
This product has many good comments on BITOG for cleaning a sludged up engine. You might give that a try with a couple filters and some dino oil first.

http://www.auto-rx.com/sludge-oil-burning.shtml

Then once you've treated the engine, use a Euro spec 5w-40 synthetic and good filter from that point on.


Ehhhh. .. Auto-Rx is kinda scammy. The guy on here did some stuff and now nobody likes him, his product. Or Jacksonville Beach, FL. Right, Frank?


Don't know who Frank is, but like any products there are posts that support and posts that don't.

I would put several products as "scammy" if you simply base it on the fanboi posts. Doesn't always mean that they are a bad product.

My own research on this a few years ago found multiple threads from people who actually tried the product and gave it good reviews while the anti auto-rx posts seemed to have no substance to them. I personally ended up not trying it, but it wasn't because of the naysayers.

The OP can search if he chooses or not...I got no irons in the fire here. I was just making a suggestion based on previous research.
 
I'd do a series of short OCIs in to clean out as much of the junk as possible. Since you'd be "wasting" oil by not using it for that long, I'd got to some place like Walmart or a local auto shop and buy a few OCIs worth of their house brand Xw-40 weight oil, and a few oil filters.

After a couple of short oil changes with the house brand oil to clean out what it can, I'd start moving up to a more high quality oils like M1 0w-40 or Castrol 0w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
This product has many good comments on BITOG for cleaning a sludged up engine. You might give that a try with a couple filters and some dino oil first.

http://www.auto-rx.com/sludge-oil-burning.shtml

Then once you've treated the engine, use a Euro spec 5w-40 synthetic and good filter from that point on.



No need for ARX if the filter is already being filled with gunk!!

How many miles between fresh oil and filter clog? I'd get a good cleaning oil and change it at 75% of the filter clog distance, repeat several times checking the filter each time afterwards. Once relatively clean, THEN try a cleaner.

Also, we've seen time and time again, engines in this situation have a bunch of sludge in the pan. Probably a good idea to drop and clean.
 
Originally Posted By: DSparks
2004 BMW 325I M56 engine......belongs to a buddys new gf..owners manual says castrol 5w30 or 5w40......last week engine started ticking with ALOT of valvetrain noise from loss of oil pressure...oil level ok....removed oil filter and it was all crunched up and squished from being plugged up....changed oil and filter (fram)2x last week with 5w30 pyb just to get something decent into it...obviously the engine is a sludged up mess...just trying to figure out the proper oil to put in it....very short oil/filter change intervals will be used from here on out...
Rotella T6, 5W 40 synthetic, and hold the mouse milk.
 
This engine has probably suffered from too long OCIs.
A few short runs with any oil will probably help to clean it up.
PYB would not be a bad choice, but any oil/filter combo on short runs would work.
Once you see the oil filter not being loaded with crud, switch to either a BMW spec oil, like M1 0W-40 or what used to be called GC and run conservative OCIs.
If you really want to help your buddy's new GF, lifting the valve cover and dropping the pan would both be good ideas.
You could then clean any gross debris from the valvetrain, the pan and the pickup screen.
Be a good job for your buddy.
Hope his new GF appreciates it.
 
M1 0w-40 on a half run OCI (5K?) with frequent checking of the filter and replacement when necessary. Also, use OEM filters please or at least confirm proper fitment. The last FRAM I used in a BMW didn't fit properly and we swapped it for a MANN.
 
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