What will quiet my Nissan?

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Dec 6, 2003
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Location
Stockbridge, GA
1990 Nissan Pickup
2.4l ka24e (SOHC)
130,000 miles


This truck runs great, and clean, uses no oil. Used to commute 4 miles a day plus maybe a little runaround time on lunch and weekends. Not putting on much mileage.

I am currently using M1 10w-30 SS with Napa Gold Filter. Temps here in the ATL have been 20's in the morning (some 30's and 40's) and 40-50 in the afternoon. But I digress....

The engine is a little noisy around 2,000 to 2,500 rpm's, especially when cold. I know that it's not the timing chain or guides, because I did a complete kit in November. Before that it was really loud for the first 3 seconds of running. I don't think that this noise is hurting the engine, but it annoys me a bit.

It may be valve tapping, or piston slapping (doubtful on a Nissan), or little gremlins under the hood, i don't know???

What do ya'll think would be the best oil to quiet this mess down? By the way, it does get much less as the engine warms up, but I don't usually get to peak temp on the way to work unless I warm it up in the driveway.

I've heard the "m1 makes engines louder because it's too thin" argument and the "you need a 0W oil to get good lubrication to the tappets on those cold mornings" argument. Both sides seem to think that either thinner or thicker is the best way to quiet an engine. It can't be both ways (can it)?

I'd like some input. This is my first Nissan and I don't know what makes them happy. Should I try GC 0w-30, or maybe a 15w-40, or even 20w-50 (not in winter)?

OK, discuss.
 
IMO, M1 isn't too thin. Mobil 1 owns 63% of the market, there fore there are more good and bad claims with it simply bc there are more people using it.

On to the subject, I've used Amsoil S2, 5w/10w-30, RL, Mobil 1 0w,5w/10w-30 oils and some were a bit noisier then others. HOWEVER, you need to realize it's not the oils fault, but the engines. I would try getting a valve adjustment. With 130k miles, these are things that come about. Using an oil to mask the problem could help. Maybe try a thicker 40wt oil.
 
The valves have hydraulic lifters, so adjustment is not an option.

Isn't a 10w30 and 10w40 about the same at a cold start? That's when I get the noise. Again its not a loud noise, but just a little too noticeable for me. Should I try a OW to get the lifters pumped up quicker, or would a thicker oil keep them pumped up better?

If it is piston slap noise, would a thinner oil get in there to cushion better quicker, or a thicker oil to take up the space better?
 
Use the 0w40 Mobil1 or GC 0w30 next time.
Also, check your accessories. Could be alternator/idlerpulley/PS pump noise resonating throughout the engine mounted on loose mounts.

Also, try a different filter. I never did care for Nissan nonbypass noise creating oil filters.

What napa PN are you using?
 
Try GC 0-30 it may help I also had a similar problem with Mobil 1 10-30/and a defective K&N oil filter
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. Switched over to a Wix/NAPA Gold #51356 and GC quieter engine. Also try a different filter you might have got a bad one??
 
quote:

Originally posted by unDummy:
Use the 0w40 Mobil1 or GC 0w30 next time.
Also, check your accessories. Could be alternator/idlerpulley/PS pump noise resonating throughout the engine mounted on loose mounts.

Also, try a different filter. I never did care for Nissan nonbypass noise creating oil filters.

What napa PN are you using?


Thanks for the suggestion. My accessories are all in good shape and tight, as are my engine mounts.

Next time I will try a different filter, either the Napa/Wix 1348 or 1516 with bypass valves. Now I am using the 1361 stock filter. The 1516 may not fit due to clearance issues (.8 inches longer), but we'll see. The 1348 will fit, but I will sacrifice a little filter area (.6 inches shorter). These seem to be the only other choices, unless someone can throw out some more ideas.

By the way, which Autozone in atlanta sells GC?
 
Have you thought about giving Lube Control a try? I've read on here a success story of the knocking going away with it's use. And you can extend your oil life too.
 
a) Sometimes oil doesn't help (sometimes dino is quieter in some engines)

b) You really need to find out what the noise is. A mechanic's stethascope is indespensible. Talk to the folks that know your engine.

c) I would do an AutoRx treatment, for sure.

d) That said, try a 15W-40 this summer, or a synthetic 15W-40 this winter.
 
These KA24 engines develop lifter noise. I've seen a lot of them this way, some by 50,000 km, others not til about 140,000 km. Viscosity change doesn't do much for it. These are perfect engines for a treatment like Auto Rx to get out the built up varnish from the lifters and return the sounds to normal. I've seen results in 4 days, although I never expected that fast a reaction.
 
How about a high quality group II or II+ in 10w-30? Chevron Supreme/Havoline, Pennzoil? What about one of the 5w-40s or even 15w-40s?

Mikep
 
quote:

Originally posted by widman:
These KA24 engines develop lifter noise. I've seen a lot of them this way, some by 50,000 km, others not til about 140,000 km. Viscosity change doesn't do much for it. These are perfect engines for a treatment like Auto Rx to get out the built up varnish from the lifters and return the sounds to normal. I've seen results in 4 days, although I never expected that fast a reaction.

Thanks for the info. Other forums have given me similar info and that makes sense.

When I did my timing set, I cleaned out the oil pan and valve covers (a little crud in the pan, varnish under the VC), so no big chunks left to clog anything that I can SEE. I also am buying our first home in the next month, and the budget is tight.

The auto-rx treatment makes sense but is out of my budget for now. Any thoughts on using Marvel, Rislone, or Seafoam to clean out the lifters, followed by an oil change? I've had good success with seafoam in the past and heard that the others also work well, though some in this forum disagree. I hate to go cheap on this, but I have to now. Also, I don't put enough miles on the car to finish an ARX cycle within a year even.
 
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