I am getting a 99 crown vic police interceptor and more than likely it was submitted to "heavy pedal". It will have about 115k on it, and been maintained very well. What weight oil should I use at the point being it has high miles? Although 5w-20 shows great results in young engines, should I increase to 5w30 or 10w30? I accelerate very heavy and make short trips. I always maintain my vehicles at regular intervals.
What weight oil in ford modular 4.6L/5.4L & 115k Miles?
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Unless it gets below zero, i would use 10w30 Havoline High Milage or Valvoline Maxlife 10w30. Below zero use these products in 5w30.
I'd personally would run M1 5w30 and watch it. If the oil shows up dirty the first 1K miles, then the engine hadn't been maintained to the greatest extent possible. When that happens, regardless of miles, I'd dump it and continue the process to help get that engine clean. Or, you could go with the AutoRX route, which would do about the same thing, just a lot quicker. I'd also check the dipstick frequently as that engine is known to drink a little oil from time to time.
Yeah, especially the transmission. Drop the pan and change the filter. Change all the transmission fluid. If it does not have a torque converter drain, then you can do several successive changes to get most of the oil fluid out, or try one of those flush machines, but then you want to change the filter again I would think. Oh, I would would run Redline D4 ATF in it too. Might as well go Redline in the rear end also.
Why flush the fluid on a transmission if you don't know how old the fluid is? Too risky. Just drain and top-up. Go 10k and do another drain and top-up.
JHZR2
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Run a thin 30 weight... 5 or 10w30 M1 would be excellent... top-notch ATF in the trans and redline or M1 diff oil.
Good to go!
JMH
Good to go!
JMH
Since you say you accelerate heavy and make short trips, and with cooler temps coming on, I'd say go with a good conventional 5w30 and keep the OCI's within Ford recommendations.
I agree to give the transmission some attention. I'd probably just drop the pan, change the filter, and skip the flush machine routine.
Good luck.
I agree to give the transmission some attention. I'd probably just drop the pan, change the filter, and skip the flush machine routine.
Good luck.
Ok, ok, skip the flush. I just thought it was OK since AutoRx tells you to do it for their treatment. I did not have mine flushed, but just did two pan drain changes about 5000 miles apart. Anyway I an pretty sure the Redline D4 or Molakule's (www.specialtyformulations.com) ATF has GL-4 level antiwear, whereas the Mobil 1 ATF is at best GL-3 per one of their tech folks.
Might as well go with Molakuke's stuff. Support a site brother and it is really no more expensive than the Redline. I just ordered a gallon of his ATF for my manual transmission.
Might as well go with Molakuke's stuff. Support a site brother and it is really no more expensive than the Redline. I just ordered a gallon of his ATF for my manual transmission.
I'd stick with 10w30, any good gf4 oil. I like motorcraft of mobil5000.
For the trans, just use merconV fluid, no need for redline or anything, you change it every 20k in a 4r70w (i would)
For the rear end, go for a full synthetic, mobil1, redline, or royal purple. I use royal purple.
Bleed the brakes, flush and fill the power steering fluid with merconV transmission fluid (thats what the factory uses), change the coolant.
That car will run a long long time.
For the trans, just use merconV fluid, no need for redline or anything, you change it every 20k in a 4r70w (i would)
For the rear end, go for a full synthetic, mobil1, redline, or royal purple. I use royal purple.
Bleed the brakes, flush and fill the power steering fluid with merconV transmission fluid (thats what the factory uses), change the coolant.
That car will run a long long time.
WOW, I appriciate the quick responses. Yes I am a freak when it come to changing fluids. I will definatly do that as soon as I get it home.
Do you folks know if this car calles for mercon IV or something else?
Do you folks know if this car calles for mercon IV or something else?
I own a 95 CVPI, 117 miles, 4.6, so it's very similar situation to yours. IMO that this is one of the best cars I've ever owned. Mine has provided great service and averages 22-24mpg, combination of hiway/city driving.
I have had excellent results using MC oil filters (FL-820S) and MC 5w30 (semi-synthetic blend). The last few changes I have gone with Pennzoil hi-mileage 5w30 with great results as well. I went with the Pennzoil since it has a higher moly content and additional seal conditioners, but the engine runs like a top, so I can always use the MC as well. I really would not use any other weight, but that is my view. OCI's have been at 4000-4500 miles. No need for 3000 mile changes. I add 8 oz of LC at every oil change as well.
Chances are that the rear axle on yours is not a posi unit, neither is mine. I have always used Valvoline or Castrol gear lube and changed it every 40K miles or so. I generally go with the heavier weight lube due to generally warmer climate.
MerconV is recommended for your car's transmission. I use Dexron/Mercon, but will probably go with the MerconV next fluid/filter change. Don't flush it. Drop the pan and change the filter and fluid, including in the torque converter.
Agree with the others to bleed the brakes with fresh fluid (gravity bleeding works OK too) and change out the PS fluid. It can really get nasty.
Also, change the coolant while you are at it - when I did this I also went with a 180d thermostat to replace the 195d unit. No problems with the computer or anything like that.
Change the serpentine belt too. Then check the EGR passages (you have to remove the EGR valve do this). This is a common maintenance item on these cars. The passages get carboned up. There is info on the web on how to do this. Also, if you get a trouble code for EGR Insufficient Flow, it is probably not the EGR valve itself. More common is the DPFE sensor (can't remember if those are the right letters) that tells the EGR how far to open. Very common replacement item - the sensor is mounted on a bracket behind the throttle body. It reads both high and low vacuum from the exhaust flow and is prone to moisture/crud related failure. Kind of a pain to get to along with the EGR location - both to the back of the engine.
Enjoy your car. I'm really happy with mine and would get another in a heartbeat. There are a couple of CV forums that can help you out as well.
[ September 16, 2005, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Mud ]
I have had excellent results using MC oil filters (FL-820S) and MC 5w30 (semi-synthetic blend). The last few changes I have gone with Pennzoil hi-mileage 5w30 with great results as well. I went with the Pennzoil since it has a higher moly content and additional seal conditioners, but the engine runs like a top, so I can always use the MC as well. I really would not use any other weight, but that is my view. OCI's have been at 4000-4500 miles. No need for 3000 mile changes. I add 8 oz of LC at every oil change as well.
Chances are that the rear axle on yours is not a posi unit, neither is mine. I have always used Valvoline or Castrol gear lube and changed it every 40K miles or so. I generally go with the heavier weight lube due to generally warmer climate.
MerconV is recommended for your car's transmission. I use Dexron/Mercon, but will probably go with the MerconV next fluid/filter change. Don't flush it. Drop the pan and change the filter and fluid, including in the torque converter.
Agree with the others to bleed the brakes with fresh fluid (gravity bleeding works OK too) and change out the PS fluid. It can really get nasty.
Also, change the coolant while you are at it - when I did this I also went with a 180d thermostat to replace the 195d unit. No problems with the computer or anything like that.
Change the serpentine belt too. Then check the EGR passages (you have to remove the EGR valve do this). This is a common maintenance item on these cars. The passages get carboned up. There is info on the web on how to do this. Also, if you get a trouble code for EGR Insufficient Flow, it is probably not the EGR valve itself. More common is the DPFE sensor (can't remember if those are the right letters) that tells the EGR how far to open. Very common replacement item - the sensor is mounted on a bracket behind the throttle body. It reads both high and low vacuum from the exhaust flow and is prone to moisture/crud related failure. Kind of a pain to get to along with the EGR location - both to the back of the engine.
Enjoy your car. I'm really happy with mine and would get another in a heartbeat. There are a couple of CV forums that can help you out as well.
[ September 16, 2005, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Mud ]
Do you know which forums?
My Department has all Crown Vics and my POV is a CV Sport. Here in Texas, I wouldn't run anything other than a good 10w30 Dino like Havoline or Chevron Supreme. Most departments run 10W30 or 15w40 fleet oils and CV engine failures are very rare.
COPs are hard on breaks, wheel bearings (cutting curbs)and power-steering pumps. Bleed the breaks, inspect the wheel bearings and flush the power steering pump. As far as the transmission, drain and replace three or so qts every 10K.
COPs are hard on breaks, wheel bearings (cutting curbs)and power-steering pumps. Bleed the breaks, inspect the wheel bearings and flush the power steering pump. As far as the transmission, drain and replace three or so qts every 10K.
fordiesel69, try www.crownvic.net
it's the best Vic/GrandMarq forum out their.
My username is Islandvic2 overthere.
Check out the TECH ARTICLES
JohnG has a great trans service DIY article, real easy. I did my first trans service ever and it was so simple.
Use Mercon V (castrol is great) and for the 4.6, use Motorcraft FL820S filters and MoCraft 10-30 SynBlend. Both available at Wal-Mart and Oreily Auto. Good good stuff. Or use Valvoline MaxLife 10-30. Good stuff to.
If in the winter, use the 5-30, and 10-30 for spring/summer.
First thing I would do is an oil change, PCV valve change, then do a trans service.
Then use SeaFoam (bottle or Deep Creep) to decarbonize the engine, I would do 2 treatments.
Good luck with your VIC!!!
it's the best Vic/GrandMarq forum out their.
My username is Islandvic2 overthere.
Check out the TECH ARTICLES
JohnG has a great trans service DIY article, real easy. I did my first trans service ever and it was so simple.
Use Mercon V (castrol is great) and for the 4.6, use Motorcraft FL820S filters and MoCraft 10-30 SynBlend. Both available at Wal-Mart and Oreily Auto. Good good stuff. Or use Valvoline MaxLife 10-30. Good stuff to.
If in the winter, use the 5-30, and 10-30 for spring/summer.
First thing I would do is an oil change, PCV valve change, then do a trans service.
Then use SeaFoam (bottle or Deep Creep) to decarbonize the engine, I would do 2 treatments.
Good luck with your VIC!!!
Why not just change the fluid&T converter every 25 to 30k using the Mercon V which it Ford calls for?
To my surprise the cops down here in South Florida don't use Syntheic.Just dino 10w30 changed out every 3k or before.If it lived a life of dino you might want to keep it that way but a syntheic blend should work fine without worring about leaks.
Islandvic named one forum. Another is www.crownvic.us
We run 10w30 in our "spare" 2000 Crown Victoria Interceptor, it has 140k kms on it and it likes that oil, no consumption with it.
Just FLUSH the trans.Have done/handled MANY MANY high mileage vehicles and used flush machines with nothing but a great improvement in shift quality.To heck with this drop the pan every 5k and so on.What a waste of time.
Amen Hounddog!
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