What weight oil for this built Chevy motor.

I agree with the recommendations of 10W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40. Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 is a decent shelf choice. Unless the bearing clearances are obnoxiously wide (>.0035"), there's no reason for a 50 grade oil.

Not my intention to hijack a thread. The point was 5w40 (with the right additives) in a properly built small block will get you pretty far. 5w30, 10w30 5w40, 10w40, and 15w40 will all be good choices based on climate. These are absolutely solid roller. Quite big cams for the winged cars as many tracks they run flat footed

Quite radical solid rollers indeed. The neat thing to me about those engines is the lack of a harmonic damper. The use the dry sump pump as the damper, bolted directly to the cam snout. It works better than any damper out there and is the reason they can run such radical cams without tearing it apart.
 
5 or 10W-30. Flat tappet or rollers? Catalytic converter? I’ve been running Brad Penn now Penn Grade 1 for years but I don’t have a catalytic converter in a 65 Tempest. Is that a Holley street HP?
 
The filter is a very high maintenance area. Has to be cleaned and oiled every race. They get a whopping 1 mpg roughly at speed on Methanol. The oil lasts 5 nights only because it is contaminated with enough dirt to matter. If we could keep the dirt out it would be a different story

Rebuilds are 15 nights at roughly $10,000

David
 
Picked this up a few years ago and only put a couple hundred miles on it, so its time for an oil change. No idea what all was done other than what you see here. Would 20W50 be the way to go? I don't expect to drive it below 40°F, and it's hard enough to start below 60° as it has no choke.

View attachment 131985
What is that a LATE 80'S CAMARO?

Likely AROUND 350-375hp IF THE RIGHT CAM SELECTION was made for streetability.
IF RUNNING FACTORY bearing clearances and cast alloy pistons, a good 10W30 will do ya.
A 50 or diesel 15W40 is going to eat power and cause cam gear and dist bushing wear.

Also, backing up, a couple hundred miles does not mean change oil!! The filter will go bye bye first.

Have fun.

btw: Is it for sale? 5MT trans?

- Ken
 
Picked this up a few years ago and only put a couple hundred miles on it, so its time for an oil change. No idea what all was done other than what you see here. Would 20W50 be the way to go? I don't expect to drive it below 40°F, and it's hard enough to start below 60° as it has no choke.

View attachment 131985
Does it tell you the brand and model of the cylinder heads on the end of them? Usually it's there. Edelbrock is usually very visible, and I'm not seeing it in this picture, but would certainly help us know more about the engine if the head and intake brand/model were available.
 
So, you picked it up a few years ago and only put a few hundred miles on it? What is wrong with you?

Use a synthetic oil from the Ford Powerstroke list. It'll have enough survivalist zddp for 'unknown' engine builds. And, there are several good 0w40's and 5w40's too so that you don't have to fear the cold start camgear:bushing wear. I'd consider a supplement if fearing a wear point that isn't solved by the 'oil' chosen.

BTW, its time for a diff change, a coolant change, and transmission service, a PSF service..... I'd even consider the thermostat and cap. Inspect your belts hoses plugs.... Set a baseline with parts and enjoy the vehicle.


 
I am seeing a TV cable must be a slushbox. Engine build looks no nonsense though.

Funny Gen III 'marrows are a slight evolution of a Vega/monza with mac struts up front versus sla.

I liked the way they drove. Had a used 86 RS in the 80's with 5mt and a sixer for less boring commuter.
 
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