I have 2 cars, one is a daily driver and one is a weekend nice day toy. Daily driver is a 2010 Accord coupe 4 cyl spec'd for 5w20, weekend toy is the 01 Grand Prix 3800 spec'd for 10w30. The Grand Prix uses a stock bottom end but is supercharged, intercooled, cam, ported heads, headers, ect. It is fast and I beat the snot out of this car when I drive it. In a perfect world I would like to use the same oil in both cars just to make life easier, cut waste, and not have the left over 1/2 quart when doing oil changes. I see using the same oil in both car not really possible because of the different required weights and demands from these cars. I usually use Mobil 1 but that is getting two expensive when used with a $10 Mobil 1 EP filter. Is RT6 5W40 to thick for the Grand Prix? It is a cheaper full synthetic oil with a good add pack. OCI on the Grand Prix is really a non issue because I dont drive the car enough and I change the oil twice a year. I suppose I could really use any 5w20 oil in the Accord and I like to go with 5000 mil OCI with this car. Whats you suggestion?
What should my choice of oil be?
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For the Grand Prix, if you drive less than 7-8k miles a year and if most trips are more than 10-15 miles then you could do 1 year OCI with any synthetic xW30.
For the Honda, use 5W20 and increase OCI to 6-7k miles or when the oil life monitor goes down to 10-15%.
For the Honda, use 5W20 and increase OCI to 6-7k miles or when the oil life monitor goes down to 10-15%.
Since price is an issue, buy the cheapest oil you are happy to use in a single brand in both 5w20 and 5w30. Eg PYB and when you have a little of one left, just use it in the other car. Adding half a quart of 5w30 to a fill of 5w20 and vice versa won't matter a bit.
I put 2000 miles on the Grand Prix this last year. I just feel better when I change it first thing in the spring and then around September. The car sits all winter. I complain about the price but I have such a hard time buying cheaper brand oils even though they have very good test results. I guess I just feel better about name brand stuff.
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Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
Is RT6 5W40 to thick for the Grand Prix?
Not at all. 40 wt is what I`d use.
Is RT6 5W40 to thick for the Grand Prix?
Not at all. 40 wt is what I`d use.
I have 3 Grand Prix 2 x 2000 and an 01. One of the 2000's is a GTP and the other is a GT with HD transmission and turbo on a built motor. I run Mobil 1 0w40 in both, also only low miles summer cars. No problems, they run smooth and quiet with this oil.
The 01 is my new project car, this will be a RWD conversion. Mobil 1 0w40 in that too when its together.
The 01 is my new project car, this will be a RWD conversion. Mobil 1 0w40 in that too when its together.
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
In a perfect world I would like to use the same oil in both cars just to make life easier, cut waste, and not have the left over 1/2 quart when doing oil changes.
What are you getting the extra 1/2 quart from? My Buick has the 3800 in it too and I run a
full 6 quarts in it. I've been running 6 quarts in it since 2005 with no problems what-so-ever.
In a perfect world I would like to use the same oil in both cars just to make life easier, cut waste, and not have the left over 1/2 quart when doing oil changes.
What are you getting the extra 1/2 quart from? My Buick has the 3800 in it too and I run a
full 6 quarts in it. I've been running 6 quarts in it since 2005 with no problems what-so-ever.
I would try out Mobil Super High Mileage (Castrol GTX synthetic blend is too expensive) 5w30 in both cars.
any api certified sm or sn 5w20 for the Honda
Any api certified 10w30 for the Pontiac will be perfect
Any api certified 10w30 for the Pontiac will be perfect
The oil requirements for the two engines are just too different to make the "perfect" choice of one oil. In your daily driver Honda, driving in an Illinois winter, an oil that maximizes fuel economy and minimizes oil pressure delay on a cold start would be my suggestion. M1 0w20, or the Honda 0w20, would fill those needs.
For your supercharged Grand Prix that sits a lot, I say stick with M1, but go with High Mileage 10w30. It has higher HTHS viscosity and more ZDDP than the regular M1. If you want to save money, only do one oil change a year.
For your supercharged Grand Prix that sits a lot, I say stick with M1, but go with High Mileage 10w30. It has higher HTHS viscosity and more ZDDP than the regular M1. If you want to save money, only do one oil change a year.
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I usually use Mobil 1 but that is getting two (sic) expensive
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I have such a hard time buying cheaper brand oils even though they have very good test results. I guess I just feel better about name brand stuff.
I mentioned PYB for both cars in different weights. It's brand name, it's cheap. You could put you leftover half a quart of one into the other with no real impact. It would run 6 months in your daily driver Honda and probably 1 year in your Grand Prix.
There are lots of brand name cheap oils out there that you can use. Rebates on Valvoline, Quaker State & Pennzoil would all make using a Synthetic the same price as off the shelf prices of many dinos. If you don't want to do rebates and want synthetic and want to change at 6 months on your GP and don't want to pay a lot, then get Walmart Supertech.
Most oils are ok for most cars, especially at 6 month intervals and your mileage. Nothing is really that expensive especially with so many deals and rebates on oil and filters for a DIY oil changer.
I don't though get this thing that you'd like to use Mobil, but it's getting expensive so tell me what else to use, but you don't want to use something cheap because it isn't a name brand, even though you know the OA's come back good, and you don't want to go to extended OCI, because it makes you feel better to change twice a year.
Seems like you need to sort out your feelings a bit. Either you want to make logical decisions or you want to make emotional decisions. At the end of the day, oil choice is easy these days. Meet the oil spec recommended by your manufacturer and buy whenever it is cheapest. Use the OE oil filter unless you know the aftermarket meets the spec. Change according to the specified intervals unless you have good information to the contrary (either more or less frequent). More frequent would be related to severe service, Less frequent would be related to driving pattern and oil manufacturer information / guarantee.
I usually use Mobil 1 but that is getting two (sic) expensive
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I have such a hard time buying cheaper brand oils even though they have very good test results. I guess I just feel better about name brand stuff.
I mentioned PYB for both cars in different weights. It's brand name, it's cheap. You could put you leftover half a quart of one into the other with no real impact. It would run 6 months in your daily driver Honda and probably 1 year in your Grand Prix.
There are lots of brand name cheap oils out there that you can use. Rebates on Valvoline, Quaker State & Pennzoil would all make using a Synthetic the same price as off the shelf prices of many dinos. If you don't want to do rebates and want synthetic and want to change at 6 months on your GP and don't want to pay a lot, then get Walmart Supertech.
Most oils are ok for most cars, especially at 6 month intervals and your mileage. Nothing is really that expensive especially with so many deals and rebates on oil and filters for a DIY oil changer.
I don't though get this thing that you'd like to use Mobil, but it's getting expensive so tell me what else to use, but you don't want to use something cheap because it isn't a name brand, even though you know the OA's come back good, and you don't want to go to extended OCI, because it makes you feel better to change twice a year.
Seems like you need to sort out your feelings a bit. Either you want to make logical decisions or you want to make emotional decisions. At the end of the day, oil choice is easy these days. Meet the oil spec recommended by your manufacturer and buy whenever it is cheapest. Use the OE oil filter unless you know the aftermarket meets the spec. Change according to the specified intervals unless you have good information to the contrary (either more or less frequent). More frequent would be related to severe service, Less frequent would be related to driving pattern and oil manufacturer information / guarantee.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
The oil requirements for the two engines are just too different to make the "perfect" choice of one oil. In your daily driver Honda, driving in an Illinois winter, an oil that maximizes fuel economy and minimizes oil pressure delay on a cold start would be my suggestion. M1 0w20, or the Honda 0w20, would fill those needs.
For your supercharged Grand Prix that sits a lot, I say stick with M1, but go with High Mileage 10w30. It has higher HTHS viscosity and more ZDDP than the regular M1. If you want to save money, only do one oil change a year.
I'd agree with this suggestion but would go with any Japanese 0W-20 (preference would be the Toyota 0W-20) for the Accord.
For the Pontiac GP I'd use the same 0W-20 and substitute a couple of quarts of M1 0W-40 instead of the 10w30 (I don't like antiquated low VI oils). This will give you a 0w30 with the same HTHSV as the 10w30 or even higher if you want by simply increasing the 0W-40 percentage.
The oil requirements for the two engines are just too different to make the "perfect" choice of one oil. In your daily driver Honda, driving in an Illinois winter, an oil that maximizes fuel economy and minimizes oil pressure delay on a cold start would be my suggestion. M1 0w20, or the Honda 0w20, would fill those needs.
For your supercharged Grand Prix that sits a lot, I say stick with M1, but go with High Mileage 10w30. It has higher HTHS viscosity and more ZDDP than the regular M1. If you want to save money, only do one oil change a year.
I'd agree with this suggestion but would go with any Japanese 0W-20 (preference would be the Toyota 0W-20) for the Accord.
For the Pontiac GP I'd use the same 0W-20 and substitute a couple of quarts of M1 0W-40 instead of the 10w30 (I don't like antiquated low VI oils). This will give you a 0w30 with the same HTHSV as the 10w30 or even higher if you want by simply increasing the 0W-40 percentage.
CATERHAM, I think you're one of few people who likes to mix different grades to get desired result.
Your idea of mixing Toyota 0W-20 and M1 0W40 for the Pontiac GP is very sound.
When I have few cases of M1 15W50 some years ago, I used 4 quarts M1 0W40, 2 quarts M1 5W20 and 2 quarts M1 15W40, the final grade was close to xW40. It may be a little thicker than M1 0W40 at cold start, but I needed to get rid of the thick 15W50.
Your idea of mixing Toyota 0W-20 and M1 0W40 for the Pontiac GP is very sound.
When I have few cases of M1 15W50 some years ago, I used 4 quarts M1 0W40, 2 quarts M1 5W20 and 2 quarts M1 15W40, the final grade was close to xW40. It may be a little thicker than M1 0W40 at cold start, but I needed to get rid of the thick 15W50.
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I usually use Mobil 1 but that is getting two (sic) expensive
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I have such a hard time buying cheaper brand oils even though they have very good test results. I guess I just feel better about name brand stuff.
I mentioned PYB for both cars in different weights. It's brand name, it's cheap. You could put you leftover half a quart of one into the other with no real impact. It would run 6 months in your daily driver Honda and probably 1 year in your Grand Prix.
There are lots of brand name cheap oils out there that you can use. Rebates on Valvoline, Quaker State & Pennzoil would all make using a Synthetic the same price as off the shelf prices of many dinos. If you don't want to do rebates and want synthetic and want to change at 6 months on your GP and don't want to pay a lot, then get Walmart Supertech.
Most oils are ok for most cars, especially at 6 month intervals and your mileage. Nothing is really that expensive especially with so many deals and rebates on oil and filters for a DIY oil changer.
I don't though get this thing that you'd like to use Mobil, but it's getting expensive so tell me what else to use, but you don't want to use something cheap because it isn't a name brand, even though you know the OA's come back good, and you don't want to go to extended OCI, because it makes you feel better to change twice a year.
Seems like you need to sort out your feelings a bit. Either you want to make logical decisions or you want to make emotional decisions. At the end of the day, oil choice is easy these days. Meet the oil spec recommended by your manufacturer and buy whenever it is cheapest. Use the OE oil filter unless you know the aftermarket meets the spec. Change according to the specified intervals unless you have good information to the contrary (either more or less frequent). More frequent would be related to severe service, Less frequent would be related to driving pattern and oil manufacturer information / guarantee.
I am a brand name person. If the exact same oil was in a Supertech synthetic and a Mobil 1 bottle with the correct pricing I will buy the Mobil 1 bottle after I complain to myself for a min. The old myth of changing oil every 3 months or 3000 miles is still driven into my head and I know it is not true, I am trying to change that. I personally just feel better to change my oil every 5000 miles on the Honda and twice a year on the GP. That is probably a waste of good oil and money so I need to fix that too.
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I usually use Mobil 1 but that is getting two (sic) expensive
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
I have such a hard time buying cheaper brand oils even though they have very good test results. I guess I just feel better about name brand stuff.
I mentioned PYB for both cars in different weights. It's brand name, it's cheap. You could put you leftover half a quart of one into the other with no real impact. It would run 6 months in your daily driver Honda and probably 1 year in your Grand Prix.
There are lots of brand name cheap oils out there that you can use. Rebates on Valvoline, Quaker State & Pennzoil would all make using a Synthetic the same price as off the shelf prices of many dinos. If you don't want to do rebates and want synthetic and want to change at 6 months on your GP and don't want to pay a lot, then get Walmart Supertech.
Most oils are ok for most cars, especially at 6 month intervals and your mileage. Nothing is really that expensive especially with so many deals and rebates on oil and filters for a DIY oil changer.
I don't though get this thing that you'd like to use Mobil, but it's getting expensive so tell me what else to use, but you don't want to use something cheap because it isn't a name brand, even though you know the OA's come back good, and you don't want to go to extended OCI, because it makes you feel better to change twice a year.
Seems like you need to sort out your feelings a bit. Either you want to make logical decisions or you want to make emotional decisions. At the end of the day, oil choice is easy these days. Meet the oil spec recommended by your manufacturer and buy whenever it is cheapest. Use the OE oil filter unless you know the aftermarket meets the spec. Change according to the specified intervals unless you have good information to the contrary (either more or less frequent). More frequent would be related to severe service, Less frequent would be related to driving pattern and oil manufacturer information / guarantee.
I am a brand name person. If the exact same oil was in a Supertech synthetic and a Mobil 1 bottle with the correct pricing I will buy the Mobil 1 bottle after I complain to myself for a min. The old myth of changing oil every 3 months or 3000 miles is still driven into my head and I know it is not true, I am trying to change that. I personally just feel better to change my oil every 5000 miles on the Honda and twice a year on the GP. That is probably a waste of good oil and money so I need to fix that too.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
CATERHAM, I think you're one of few people who likes to mix different grades to get desired result.
Your idea of mixing Toyota 0W-20 and M1 0W40 for the Pontiac GP is very sound.
When I have few cases of M1 15W50 some years ago, I used 4 quarts M1 0W40, 2 quarts M1 5W20 and 2 quarts M1 15W40, the final grade was close to xW40. It may be a little thicker than M1 0W40 at cold start, but I needed to get rid of the thick 15W50.
I don't really set out to mix oils but it often turns out that way for various reasons. Like your I often wind up with a mix in using up what's in my oil stash and also (since I have oil gauges in all my cars) to adjust the operational viscosity of the oil between oil changes.
The other reason applies to the 30wt grade which has very little in the way of high VI offerings. We've got the 200+ VIs of the Japanese OEM 0W-20s and the ubiquitous M1 0W-40 (VI 186) but little in between. As a consiquence both these oils become ideal cost effective candidates for blending to produce a resultant high VI 0w30 that's simply not otherwise available without resorting to an expensive oil like RL, RLI or heaven forbid Lucas.
CATERHAM, I think you're one of few people who likes to mix different grades to get desired result.
Your idea of mixing Toyota 0W-20 and M1 0W40 for the Pontiac GP is very sound.
When I have few cases of M1 15W50 some years ago, I used 4 quarts M1 0W40, 2 quarts M1 5W20 and 2 quarts M1 15W40, the final grade was close to xW40. It may be a little thicker than M1 0W40 at cold start, but I needed to get rid of the thick 15W50.
I don't really set out to mix oils but it often turns out that way for various reasons. Like your I often wind up with a mix in using up what's in my oil stash and also (since I have oil gauges in all my cars) to adjust the operational viscosity of the oil between oil changes.
The other reason applies to the 30wt grade which has very little in the way of high VI offerings. We've got the 200+ VIs of the Japanese OEM 0W-20s and the ubiquitous M1 0W-40 (VI 186) but little in between. As a consiquence both these oils become ideal cost effective candidates for blending to produce a resultant high VI 0w30 that's simply not otherwise available without resorting to an expensive oil like RL, RLI or heaven forbid Lucas.
I'd keep using Mobil 1 for your Prix, but I would go with either Quaker State or PYB conventional for your Accordion! (like my phrase? lol)
Both QS and PYB are good values for their test results this year.
Both QS and PYB are good values for their test results this year.
Through work I can get Parts Master synthetic in 10w30, 5w30, and 5w20 flavors. It is cheap too at under $4 a quart my cost but I am a little worried about using it because I have not heard much about it other then it is made by Valvoline. What do you guys think about Parts Master oil?
If I were you i would find the right mobil oil thats syn and spec'd right for your honda in the 5w-20 weight and get the same oil in a 5w30 for your gp. use the left over 5w-20 for the partial in the gp. The oil would be exact same besides the viscosity and the gp would not notice the small change the 20wt would make. You would verify with your oil pressure gauge since you have some mods you should have. The temps for the gp's oil should be less cause of the little bit thinner oil so temp should not be a prob. Best of both worlds, a proper weight and no risks of mixing. You can obviously sub out the mobil with any type Im just a big mobil fan.
With that nice syn you could safely go 1 year in the gp. Id do a uoa for the first interval just to make sure there is no fuel or water in it amongst the other bad things.
And secondly with the nice syn oil you can be assured your newer car will get all the oil help it can. I assume you are sticking with the manuf intervals.
You could also get a uoa done on the particular oil in the honda at the end of honda's reccomended oci just to see if your oil choice was a good one and a safe one for your driving habbits and so on.
With that nice syn you could safely go 1 year in the gp. Id do a uoa for the first interval just to make sure there is no fuel or water in it amongst the other bad things.
And secondly with the nice syn oil you can be assured your newer car will get all the oil help it can. I assume you are sticking with the manuf intervals.
You could also get a uoa done on the particular oil in the honda at the end of honda's reccomended oci just to see if your oil choice was a good one and a safe one for your driving habbits and so on.
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That is basically what I am doing now is Mobil 1 5w30 in the GP Mobil 1 5w20 in the Honda and saving the 1/2 quart for top offs.
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