What should be my next oil?

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Mar 5, 2007
Western Washington
I've been running Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (European Formula) with an Mobil 1 filter in my 2004 Sequoia V8 for the past few oil changes with great UOA results out to 10,000 miles. My wife was driving about 50 miles roundtrip to work four days a week plus weekend traveling so the miles piled up quickly, but now that she's only working two days a week it will take a little longer to put on the same amount of miles. My goal is to choose a less expensive oil that I can run without worry to about 7,500 miles with the Napa Gold Filters that I have a case of. I've been away from the forum for a while but I'm thinking that I can't go wrong with Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra. What are your thoughts. I don't plan to do a UOA to prove whatever oil I select. I don't think it's worth the money with a known easy on oil motor.
QSUD is a great oil that goes for $20.xx at wallyworld. But, I would imagine a good conventional of any major brand or a good Syn-blend like motorcraft is pretty cheap as well and would handle 7.5k with no worries.
You can't go wrong with either Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra. Both are great oils. Ultra may have a tad stouter additive package for longer oci's but both are great.
Well Syntec is on sale this month AZ with a Bosch filter for like $25 w/ $& MIR you can get use the coupon on two separate purchases. Hey No lies here, look at the PDS for PEAK "syn", I was extremely surprised at the quality of the oil. Check that out as a quality alternative.
I would use Wal-Mart supertech synthetic 5W-30 and a OEM Toyota filter. Seriously, your climate is relatively mild, the engine is superbly engineered and Supertech has actually proven to be a decent product. I always prefer OEM filters for all applications and you can use the money that you save on oil for the filter price increase.
The Napa Gold Filter's a done deal since I've been happy with them in the past and I have a case of the oversized version that fit on both my Sequoia and old 4Runner. I'm actually thinking that the filter is likely the limiting factor. As for oil, there are a couple of people on the forum running Mobil 1 Extended Performance in the same engine with great results, one was close to 15,000 miles. It seems like a slam dunk, but are the Pennzoil products any better?
As you can see from my sig I'm a fan of both GC 0W-30 and PP so I have no bias between the two. In your case with proven UOA's, why fix what's not broken? I'm not sure about where you live, but in my neck of the woods, GC and PP are priced pretty similar, with Mobil 1 EP & PU being at a higher price point. If you really want to make a change for the sake of change, any of those you listed are fantastic oils and will serve you well.
Supertech will be great pil for a great price also QS is another good oil for cheap price if you want a name brand...stick with those filters you got until their gone Napa Golds are good stuff.
I guess I should clarify that my goal isn't as much about saving money as it is convience. GC is difficult to get in my area, the last time I purchased it I could only find it stocked in an AZ that is not on my way to anywhere. The local store seemed to have dropped that particular oil from the stock. I'll probably be purchasing oil from Walmart which means Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, non-GC Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, QS, etc. I could run the standard Mobil 1 that's available at Costco as well. Should I have any concerns with running the NAPA Gold filter to 7,500 or 10,000 miles? I'd like to stick to a known long drain oil just as a warm fuzzy. Mobil 1 EP doesn't have an official long drain spec, but it's been proven in my engine to more than 15,000 miles. I'm confortable with PP to 7,500 miles and Ultra at least that far and maybe more. Is the filter the weak link?
Dance with the one that brung ya. If GC worked well for 10K in your app, it will continue to do so over a longer time interval. This is a Euro spec long drain, long interval oil. You'll surely come across an AZ stocking it sometime during each OCI. If not, any AZ can order it for you, as can almost any parts store stocking Syntec, even if they don't stock GC. If you had good results with the oil, and have paid for UOAs, stay with it.
A_Harmon - Does EP cost any more than standard M1? I don't actually know the current prices, but that seems to be the only reason to not choose EP. Have I already mentioned that another reason to go away from GC is to get a thinner oil? GC is nearly a 40wt oil so I'm interested to see if there's any efficiency to be gained using an oil that is closer to the 20wt end of the 30wt range.
Every time I've checked the price of EP, it's about $1.00 more than regular M1. It's be a good deal if you were planning to run it up to their recommended 15,000 miles.
I did some oil shopping today while I was out of the house. At Walmart, Mobil 1 EP would cost $5.61 more than Mobil 1for 7 quarts. The cost inclues a jug and two quarts with tax. Here's the breakdown of the oil cost for different oils based on my comfort level with them: 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP - $0.43 per 100 miles (10,000 mile OCI) 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum - $0.44 per 100 miles (7,500 mile OCI) 0w-30 Castrol Syntec - $0.62 per 100 miles (10,000 mile OCI) Based on several great oil samples posted on the forum with Mobil 1 EP I'm very comfortable with 10,000 mile OCI, but I wouldn't push PP over 7,500 without some testing.
I also picked up two quarts of 5w-30 Maxlife to round out one quart of 5w-30 and two quarts of 10w-30 in my garage that will go into my 89 4Runner. It gets driven less and less all the time and even though it's winter I don't think the temperatures will be a significant concern for a 2/5 mix of 10w-30, especially since it's a garage dweller.
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