It sounds to me like I have nothing to worry about then, since my drive to work is 45-60min and my drive home is the same. And I never use the car for short trips, anytime I start it I drive it at least 20-30 miles.
I definitely am enjoying it, I've put almost 1700 miles on it in three weeks.quote:
Originally posted by Brett Miller:
You worry too much. Just drive the car and enjoy it.
Sometimes I wonder if I should let the engine die sooner so that I could justify (to the wife!) spending $$$ on an even more powerful one!quote:
Originally posted by Matt89:
And the good thing to remember, Patman, is that you've got yourself a classic ride where it would be WORTH IT to rebuild the engine at some point
Maybe ...after the bearings, that start out at the same temp as the oil, reach a temp that allows the water to reach a state that it can vaporize ..keeping in mind that the same "warming up" bearing surfaces are being cooled by that "average temp" oil supply.quote:
pan temp would give an average temp of all the oil, but the tiny bit of oil that just dropped in from a bearing or the underside of a piston is way way way above boiling. If every drop of oil gets a shot in the bearings every few minutes, it does not take long to boil off the water
FWIW, my normal oil temps are around 180-185F, and they just barely get there by the time I'm done with my 12 mile commute to work and then back. I do a bunch of shorter trips as well. My last UOA did not show any moisture present. I did have 1% fuel though.quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
I know that in theory they say that you need to reach 212F (100C) in order for water to boil, but does that mean my oil temperature must reach 212F in order to fully burn off the moisture?
Wouldn't it be better to let it steam off and out of the engine rather than holding the water in a filter and running the oil through it?quote:
Originally posted by sifan:
Install an oil bypass filter which will filter out the water in the oil.