What oil for Dodge Cummins?

[SHARK1]

Hi I am new here I have been checking things out here for a while but still don't understand a lot about oils. I have a 2003 Dodge 3500 dually 4x4 with the Cummins diesel & 6 speed tranny.I am averaging about 10,000 miles a year or a little less. I run very short distances back & fourth to work during the week & tow 11,000 pound boat on about 2hr trip both ways on the weekends in the summer.My question is what brand oil & filter should I run for this type of driving & can I get away with changing it once a year?

Thanks Charlie

 

[carter]

The Fleetguard Stratapore (LF16035) uses a full-synthetic media and may be a good canditate to go one year/10k miles. The Wix 5760XE "appears" to be the same filter made by Cummins Filtration. I don't know if the media is Stratapore or the lower-grade Cellulose(?). A certain site sponsor is a good source for the Wix.

The "very short distances" you usually run may be particularly hard on your oil since the ISB probably doen't even warm up by the time you shut it off. I'll defer to a resident expert about oil selection, but I use Chevron Delo at 5k intervals.

Regards.

 

[D-Roc]

You can run Amsoil for extended drain intervals and be quite safe. 15w40AME or 5w30HDD

 

[SHARK1]

That was the one thing I am concerned about is the very short runs back & fourth to work I know this has to be hard on any oil synthetic or dino. Right now I am running Rotella 15w-40 dino & fleetgaurd filter changing it every 5000 miles. Maybe I will be safer sticking with this? Thanks Charlie

 

[D-Roc]

You can change your oil every 5000 miles, but the owners manual allows for 7500 mile intervals under severe service. Bottom line for oil is that it is personal choice. You could probably run flax oil in the Cummins and it would be fine! Ford Powerstrokes are much harder on oil.

 

[D-Roc]

Stratapores are definitely one of the better filters to use.

 

[LACTD]

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That was the one thing I am concerned about is the very short runs back & fourth to work I know this has to be hard on any oil synthetic or dino. Right now I am running Rotella 15w-40 dino & fleetgaurd filter changing it every 5000 miles. Maybe I will be safer sticking with this? Thanks Charlie

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No matter what oil you use, you will always have the moisture problem to deal with. You can either change the oil or put a bypass filter on. Thats the main reason I installed my Oilguard. It also lets me skip 2 oil changes. I use the Rotella 5w40.(Plus LC20

)

 

[SHARK1]

Do you guys think going with a good synthetic like Delvac 1 or Amsoil & a good filter like the Fleetguard Stratapore or the Amsoil EAO would be safe to run for 10,000 or is it pushing any oil running these short distances every day. Or am I better off just sticking with the dino & changing it every 5000? I like to feel safe. Won't there be a lot more contaments or oxidation in sythetic at 10,000 at these short distances every day? Don't mean to be a pain just trying to understand all this. Thanks Charlie

 

[tsmay51]

I use my ctd just about the same as you. You would be fine with any of the name brand diesel oils on the market. Synthetic or conventional would be fine and a good strat... filter. Synthetic would give a bit more protection at startup in the cold part of the yr. I have tried rotella, delvac, delo, and valvoline conventional oils and cannot tell anything different from one to the other. Get whatever is easiest and most reasonable and be happy.

 

[D-Roc]

Everyone pretty much has the same opinion on the oil...but you you should definitley stick with a high quality filter. Fleetguard Stratapores, Donaldson Endurance, Amsoil EAO, Wix/Napa. The filter is just as important as a good quality oil. I have an 06 Dodge Cummins and right now I am using a Stratapore and Esso XD3 0W40. I am going to switch however, to a Donaldson Endurance and Amsoil HDD 5W30.

 

[tsmay51]

I don't understand why someone would change to a 5w30? Not saying that it is wrong. Just curious how this could benefit. I can understand the 5w40 but why would you change to the 5w30 when the manual specifies 15w40 or 5w40 synthetic? Just curious... not saying anyone is wrong.

 

[Gene K]

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but why would you change to the 5w30 when the manual specifies 15w40 or 5w40 synthetic?

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Amsoil HDD is a very robust oil. It decreases cold start wear (it will be thinner at normal cold start temps than 5W-40) and increases mpg while provided very good protection at any sump temperature your likely to see without severe overheating. Any engine manufacture will tell you wear is directly proportional to the amount of fuel run through the engine not miles.

I know guys that run HDD in OTR Class 8 trucks with a Bypass Filter and have 250,000 mi without an oil change.

Actually though on a dollar to benefit ratio without a bypass filter I think it would be very hard to beat Schaeffers 7000 Blend 15W-40. It has very good cold cranking performance and is actually betwen 5W and 10W in most cold test I have seen. The only problem is its hard to source in some areas.

There is alway Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 or Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-400. In my 25,000 mi test in a CAT 3406E they still had a TBN of 7.8-8.3 and a TAN of 2.5-2.8 with Soot Levels of 0.1-0.2 (with no bypass filter!) and viscosity was perfect. They were mirror twins of each other. I could have easily just changed the full flow oil filter and ran another 25,000 mi.

 

[D-Roc]

As stated above, but in different words the HDD 5W30 has a low number for viscosity at startup. Better performance at startup and it also has a lower viscosity at operating temps, this reduces as Amsoil states "hydraulic drag". In short, it is easier for the moving parts to push through. While it is lower viscosity at running temps, it protects just as well if not better than many oils out there. I probably would have chosen Schaeffer's myself, but it seems to be hard to come by up here in Canada. I also chose Amsoil for the extended drain intervals. If I don't want to change my oil for a year, I most likely do not have to. I will just take a UOA.

 

[hounddog]

I have had two Dodges with Cummins and put about the same mileage you stated.Amsoil 15w40 and Fleetguard filter once a year now for 12 years or so.Works for me.Also use it in a New Holland tractor with once a year oil changes.

 

[Joseph Fihn]

I, also, have an '03, 6-sp. with a bit over 50,000 miles. Tha last two changes were at about 8000 miles, using Chevron Delo-400, 15-40 & Fleetguard Stratopore filters. I had used oil analysis done on both of these changes & the oil came out still in good, usable condition.

Regarding all the short trips, you may want to try to get in the habit of taking the truck out & getting it hot, to burn off any moisture in the oil. One of the things I do is to go to the Flying J truck stop for fuel. It's about 25 miles from my home but, the fuel is cheaper & it gives the engine a chance to warm up, a bit. Fueling up is an event, for me. Enjoy talking to the other "diesel guys" at the truck stop. I've learned a lot, there. That trip accomplishes quite a bit, for me & my truck.

Joe Fihn

 

[Reg# 43897]

What about using Esso's 0w-30 XD-3 instead of the forty-weight?

John.

 

[D-Roc]

Can't see any harm, I used to think it was bad scoobies to use a 30 weight in the Cummins. More and more I find that if you use a top quality diesel rated 30 like Amsoil or Esso, you will have excellent results. Backup with UOA however. I just renewed my membership with Amsoil and bought some 5W30 HDD and an EAO 80 filter. I have XD3 0w40 in right now.
Try it.

 

[rossn2]

To you want to maintain your Dodge and Cummins warranty? Then it's a 15w-40 or 5w-40, every 7500 miles (Severe-Schedule B). If you use a different weight oil adn deviate from the OEM procedures, than you become your own warranty station. Are you just towing the boat during summer months? Since you're in PA why not 15w-40 during spring and summer and change to 5w-40 for Fall and Winter? And just do 5k mile changes with a Stratapore Oil filter?

 

[D-Roc]

Not necessarily. With dealers playing warranty hardball on EVERYTHING these days, I can't see a problem. If you do UOA's and everything is fine, then under the MM act, they have to PROVE that what you did caused the problem. I have heard of people being charged at the dealer because they had a fuel problem and the dealer said that it was bad fuel with little explanation.
To each his own. You can do as you are told your whole life and never be happy. Each individual has to make their own choice.

 

[rossn2]

Don't want to get into the MM act mess. How long would you be fighting the dealer to fix the vehicle and waiting for court dates, etc?
Why not just use the OEM recommended weight and specifications of oil, while it's under warranty to avoid the hassle?