What Oil Are You Running In Your Honda 1.5T?

[john_pifer]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
10w-30 is not a thick oil for Northern Indiana,,,


No, not too thick. I was up there recently and did a couple of cold starts from about 25*F in the WRX with PPPP 10W-30. But she will be doing cold starts every day with it parked outside. It's definitely a debatable point. the 10W would be great up there 3 seasons out of the year.

Heck, I might just advise her to get the PPPP 5W-30 and do the $20 rebate. I think it would be just fine and would do well over a 5K OCI (would likely end up as a 20W at the end of the OCI).

 

[meep]

just changed the oil in my son's 1.5T last weekend, first OC. The factory fill came out like water (engine was warm) but did not have any fuel-type of smell. Used PP 5w-20 going in. OLM was down to 10% remaining at 6,700 miles. His car has not had level increase. At 4,000 we added 3/4 qt. His is a manual, the smoothest, slickest manual I've driven. It is /begging/ for a short shift kit.

 

[ka9mnx]

I should have added: ..."in the Winter". Me? I would use what the OM says. Honda has been at this for a while.

 

[StevieC]

I would run a 30wt but I would be changing it far more often along with the filter to keep as much fuel out of the crankcase as possible. I would also monitor the dipstick twice between re-fueling.

 

[earthbound]

Originally Posted by StevieC
I would run a 30wt but I would be changing it far more often along with the filter to keep as much fuel out of the crankcase as possible. I would also monitor the dipstick twice between re-fueling.


yep ,call it crazy but 2k oci is what I'm doing on mine during winter months. it begins to start creeping on the stick @ 1k or so. keep in mind nearly all of it's miles are short trips.

 

[dbier]

I bought a 2018 CRV this past weekend after reading about the great safety equipment and crash test ratings (already have a 2014 Odyssey) . Now I just stumbled across the oil dilution issue - that Honda claims happens due to engines not getting up to full operating temp (e.g. short trips).

My son noticed right away this past weekend (28 degrees outside) that it took a very long for the CRV temp gauge to rise - and it would drop while sitting at a stoplight. I've read that Honda is going to do some recall tweaking to try to get the engines to warm up faster and higher (starting to roll out in 5 states this December) - but in the meanwhile I plan to change my oil every 3,000 miles in winter and 5,000 miles in summer. Also, I noticed that if I use S (SPORT) instead of D (DRIVE) the increased revs warms the engine up much faster - so I plan to use S at least in during initial winter warm-ups.

Hopefully these precautions will help (let me know your thoughts) - but it really sucks that I have to think about this on a car bought 4 days ago!

By the way, anybody know if my 2014 Honda odyssey also has a DI engine (obviously it is not turbo)?

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by earthbound
Originally Posted by StevieC
I would run a 30wt but I would be changing it far more often along with the filter to keep as much fuel out of the crankcase as possible. I would also monitor the dipstick twice between re-fueling.


yep ,call it crazy but 2k oci is what I'm doing on mine during winter months. it begins to start creeping on the stick @ 1k or so. keep in mind nearly all of it's miles are short trips.

Oil is cheaper than an engine until Honda has a verified fix. Apparently there is firmware already but I think it's too early to tell if it solved the problem.

 

[madeej11]

Simple, use the 5w30 all year round. I live in Quebec which is much colder than Indiana and I use only 5w30. I would suggest PP. The 0w factor won't benefit her until around negative -20f.

 

[dbier]

I'm willing to change the oil weight/viscosity I use, BUT worry that not using 0w20 as specified in the CRV owner's manual could be used as an excuse by Honda to deny an engine damage warranty claim down the road. Does anybody here have insight into whether that is a realistic concern?

When I bought my first car 30 years ago I changed my oil religiously at 3,000 miles - and the body rusted out while the motor kept humming along, However, over the years I started to think that with improved oil and engine technology I could safely adhere to the manufacturer's much longer oil change intervals. But now with this issue it seems like going back to changing every 3,000 miles could be cheap insurance (relatively speaking) against long term engine damage due to oil diffusion.

 

[dblshock]

not a concern, here's why...It doesn't say anywhere your obligated to produce DIY receipts and it's on Honda's back to prove a upgraded oil caused the hypothetical problem...with all the dilution, oxidation, sheer and heat going on they'd be a fool to even try and they know it especially in the face of what the owners now know about this issue.

The conflict we're faced with is knowing all that's happening it makes complete sense to upgrade and big and as I've urged time again develop a means to bring the oil level within reason (especially cold regions). pop the hood siphon off a qt. and add .5qt fresh, 10min. inexpensive and you can then run 10k OCI's no problem.

 

[oil_film_movies]

The Honda Warranty: Technically, Honda could be insistent on a consumer using the "right" 0w20 oil, according to their own owners manual. There was a thread here a while back, and people wrote in evenly split between their experiences. Honda might care, and they might not care. Chance of a warranty claim that involved the bearings and oil is probably small anyway. ...Take the risk. Put in M1 AFE 0w30 for a little extra fuel-absorbent viscosity and don't worry.

 

[tiger862]

Originally Posted by madeej11
Simple, use the 5w30 all year round. I live in Quebec which is much colder than Indiana and I use only 5w30. I would suggest PP. The 0w factor won't benefit her until around negative -20f.

Why go tell people to use non approved oil in new vehicle with warranty? No proof 0 or 5w20 will damage his engine or Honda would have it in manual. I can't tell you how many vehicles have high mileage with 5w20 with no problem. Just did Kia with 5w20 with 173k.

 

[john_pifer]

Originally Posted by dbier
I'm willing to change the oil weight/viscosity I use, BUT worry that not using 0w20 as specified in the CRV owner's manual could be used as an excuse by Honda to deny an engine damage warranty claim down the road. Does anybody here have insight into whether that is a realistic concern?

When I bought my first car 30 years ago I changed my oil religiously at 3,000 miles - and the body rusted out while the motor kept humming along, However, over the years I started to think that with improved oil and engine technology I could safely adhere to the manufacturer's much longer oil change intervals. But now with this issue it seems like going back to changing every 3,000 miles could be cheap insurance (relatively speaking) against long term engine damage due to oil diffusion.


Welcome. I don't believe so. And that's why I'm advising my girlfriend to go with a 30W.

Being a mechanic (albeit on airplanes for a living - cars and motorcycles for fun), I know how mechanics evaluate problems. Let's take a hypothetical situation - engine damage symptoms occur (let's say customer brings it in and gripes that it's knocking and losing power). The first thing the mechanics are going to do is check the dipstick and maybe even go to the trouble of an internal oil filter inspection. If the oil looks sludgey and black, they might start asking questions about service history. On the other hand, if the oil looks normal, like it's been changed regularly, they're likely to not even ask. At that point they're going to just warranty the engine. The mechanics aren't really going to go snooping down that road unless they're given a reason to.

Now, if this were a VW we were talking about....ahem...

 

[dblshock]

Another tip i'll share is the silly orange dip-stick. take a big
pliers to the orange plastic, crush it til it falls off what your left
with is a old school readable gauge...

 

[SilverFusion2010]

If you decide to go higher viscosity give M1 HM 10w-30 consideration. It's on the thick end of 30 with HTHS of 3.5 and KV100 12.1

More insurance against dilution

 

[ChemLabNL]

Don't you love the NPC who state "follow the recommendations in the owners manual"...This is BITOG fercrysakes

I suspect Honda is having a hard time fixing the fuel dilution problem without causing other issues.

Use a Dexos2 5w30 or 0w40 oil.

 

[ChemLabNL]

Yes, Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 will work as well.

The higher viscosity (HTHS 3.5) of these oils will also have higher viscous friction which will warm the engine up without having to rev the heck out of it.

Ain't high thermal efficient, small displacement, Turbo/DI engines great?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.

 

[BTLew81]

I like the idea of a 10w30 except in winter, but you won't find a d1g2 10w30.

 

[dblshock]

0/40 ACEA A3/B4 solves those problems and likely with my routine thinness toward mid to end OCI,