What oil after turbo failure?

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Originally Posted By: saaber1
If you think the turbo failure was related to oil why not go thicker? RL 5w30 has a HTHS viscosity of 3.8, which is great for a 30 weight, but you can get HTHS 4.6 with the 5w40 or 4.7 with the 10w40.

I ran both RL 5w40 and 5w30 in my car and noticed no difference in turbo spool up (VW 2.0FSI). I did however notice a positive improvement in spool up when switching from factory fill 30 weight to the RL 5w40. So if you can get more HTHS and no loss in spool up, it seems like a safer way to go to me. 2 cents


I agree with saaber. I'm running RL 10W40 now too and love it. The RL 5w40 will be just fine in the winter too.
 
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Originally Posted By: bluesubie

4. I drive hard, but not necessarily fast. Short gearing on the car makes it quick to redline.
5. Daily drive is seven miles each way. At least once a week I hit WOT/redline after about 30 minutes of driving (in addition to my regular commute). I drive on the beach in the summer, do some light off-roading, drive spiritedly in the twisties and hills, do some highway miles to the beach, and drive to SC 2-3 times per year. No track or auto-x.


There are at least 2 problems with the described regimine: 1) you should not drive hard until the oil is up to temperature (minimum of 20 minutes--far longer than your daily commute), 2: with a turbo, you should drive as gently as possible for the last 5 minutes before ariving at a destination, and then idle for another minute so the oil can cool off the turbo. No oil can save your turbo is if you actually do drive as described above.

3: you NEED an oil temperature gauge and use it to determine when the car is warm enough to use the full power of the engine. For your cases, nothing under 150dF is warm enough to git the throttle a full dose.
4: if you turn the car off with an oil temperature reading over 250dF you will coke the oil in the turbo.

Thus, your question should be: "How should I change my driving style so that my car lasts a long time?" no oil can do this.
 
The redlining is not part of my daily 7 mile trip, but when I drive to another town once a week.

Quote:
Daily drive is seven miles each way. At least once a week I hit WOT/redline after about 30 minutes of driving (in addition to my regular commute).


I have 15 minutes of driving 25-35 mph after that. I definitely need an oil temp. gauge.


-Dennis
 
TDT, T6, Delvac 1, and if you want to stick with 30 weights RL or T5 10w30.

If you 'read between the lines' of the subaru manual oil recommendations, and trust the manufacturer, you'll quickly come to the realization that thicker could be better for the H4.
 
Surprised no one has mentioned Pennzoil Platinum in 5w30. I run it in my CX7 turbo and get very good UOAs using a 5-6K OCI. I read that Honda has a special particulate? test that Honda/Acura specs. I do believe Mobil 1 in 5w30 also meets the Honda turbo spec. Not a fancy big name oil but, seems to be popular with the turbo vehicles.
 
Eddie - I'm not considering any GF-4 oils since I prefer to run something more robust.

Steve - The oil return line and screen were checked and all was clear.

Right now I'm leaning towards M1 TDT or RL xW-30/xW-40. RL because I love how my starts are with the 5W-30 and TDT because it would be cheaper and I can pick it up almost anywhere.
I actually just added a qt. of TDT to my RL since I needed to top it off. Hopefully, the oils aren't
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.

-Dennis
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Surprised no one has mentioned Pennzoil Platinum in 5w30. I run it in my CX7 turbo and get very good UOAs using a 5-6K OCI. I read that Honda has a special particulate? test that Honda/Acura specs. I do believe Mobil 1 in 5w30 also meets the Honda turbo spec. Not a fancy big name oil but, seems to be popular with the turbo vehicles.


M1 5-30 was the first to meet the HTO-06 spec. The Acura RDX comes with it as factory fill.
 
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