I think I'm going to run a Motorcraft filter on my wife's Maxima. Does anyone know which filter is needed? A google search produced the result of FL-816. Is there a longer filter that can be used in lieu of the 816? I'm planning on running the motorcraft for 10k miles. Does anyone see an issue with that?
What motorcraft filter for a VQ35DE?
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FL-822
No Issue with the 10k. The more filters I cut open the more I think they can handle quite a bit. I don't use the super cheapies or e-cores but the FL 822 (as TownCivilian said) is the one.
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
I think I'm going to run a Motorcraft filter on my wife's Maxima. Does anyone know which filter is needed?
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
FL-822
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...446#Post1521446
It's just basically a Purolator Classic. Might as well use the Purolator 14610.
I think I'm going to run a Motorcraft filter on my wife's Maxima. Does anyone know which filter is needed?
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
FL-822
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...446#Post1521446
It's just basically a Purolator Classic. Might as well use the Purolator 14610.
dnewton3
Staff member
Be careful with x-refing.
The Wix eqiv 51356 to the FL-822 shows a bypass valve of 8-11 psi; the Wix equiv 51365 for the FL-816 also shows the same.
Not sure if either is "needed" or advisable in your application, without knowing which Maxima it is (specific engine and year). Some Nissan engines use a bypass valve in the block and don't need one in the filter. I don't know that it would "hurt" by having two bypass valves, but who knows for sure.
The Wix eqiv 51356 to the FL-822 shows a bypass valve of 8-11 psi; the Wix equiv 51365 for the FL-816 also shows the same.
Not sure if either is "needed" or advisable in your application, without knowing which Maxima it is (specific engine and year). Some Nissan engines use a bypass valve in the block and don't need one in the filter. I don't know that it would "hurt" by having two bypass valves, but who knows for sure.
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Technically, it shouldn't hurt to have two bypass valves (one in block + one in filter) ... knowing that the one with the lower opening setting will open first. Only thing to consider, is you wouldn't want to use a filter with a much less bypass setting than the valve in the block. I my experience, it's basically impossible to find out what the block bypass valves are set to (ie, I've never seen a service manual that calls out the setting spec).
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
Hmm, interesting. The book at wally world lists a motorcraft filter for the car. I wonder if that has been taken into account.
If the book lists your car, then gotta trust they know what they are talking about. As I linked above, the FL-822 is basically a Purolator L14610. Just get a Purolator, as I think the FL-822 will be hard to find except at a Ford dealership parts department.
Hmm, interesting. The book at wally world lists a motorcraft filter for the car. I wonder if that has been taken into account.
If the book lists your car, then gotta trust they know what they are talking about. As I linked above, the FL-822 is basically a Purolator L14610. Just get a Purolator, as I think the FL-822 will be hard to find except at a Ford dealership parts department.
I believe the FL-822 has lower efficiency than a Purolator Classic (93 something vs 97.5%?). Other than that, I think the only difference is the placement of the bypass valve (thread end on MC vs. dome end on PC).
I don't think any VQ35DE has a bypass valve in the block, at least I've never read of such a case.
I don't think any VQ35DE has a bypass valve in the block, at least I've never read of such a case.
Umm...why do you want to do that?
Like others have said, it's essentially a Puro Classic. There isn't anything special about them.
I personally would run a P1 or Fram Extended Guard/Ultra for 10k. They're easy to find and you'll know you have the correct part.
Like others have said, it's essentially a Puro Classic. There isn't anything special about them.
I personally would run a P1 or Fram Extended Guard/Ultra for 10k. They're easy to find and you'll know you have the correct part.
Saw this thread earlier today but no time to comment, but to be repetitive, the 822 uses a nitrile adbv and dome end bypass, same as Classic L14610. In this specific application it's not like the majority S suffix meaning silicone adbv with thread end bypass Motorcraft oil filters for FoMoCo apps.
As said, no real reason to use the 822 unless you can easily obtain it for less than the L14610 everyday Wally price of $3.27. Also, while I'd might run a P1 to 10k or 1 year in a well maintained vehicle, 10k on the 822/L14160 is a bit of of a stretch. It's a nice 5-6k filter imo.
As said, no real reason to use the 822 unless you can easily obtain it for less than the L14610 everyday Wally price of $3.27. Also, while I'd might run a P1 to 10k or 1 year in a well maintained vehicle, 10k on the 822/L14160 is a bit of of a stretch. It's a nice 5-6k filter imo.
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
I believe the FL-822 has lower efficiency than a Purolator Classic (93 something vs 97.5%?). Other than that, I think the only difference is the placement of the bypass valve (thread end on MC vs. dome end on PC).
If you look at the link I put up above for the FL-822 cut open, you'll see it's one case of a Motorcraft filter that has a dome end bypass valve (as sayjac also mentioned above) ... same exact one (flat spring design) that is also used on the Purolator Classic L14610.
I believe the FL-822 has lower efficiency than a Purolator Classic (93 something vs 97.5%?). Other than that, I think the only difference is the placement of the bypass valve (thread end on MC vs. dome end on PC).
If you look at the link I put up above for the FL-822 cut open, you'll see it's one case of a Motorcraft filter that has a dome end bypass valve (as sayjac also mentioned above) ... same exact one (flat spring design) that is also used on the Purolator Classic L14610.
dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Technically, it shouldn't hurt to have two bypass valves (one in block + one in filter) ... knowing that the one with the lower opening setting will open first. Only thing to consider, is you wouldn't want to use a filter with a much less bypass setting than the valve in the block. I my experience, it's basically impossible to find out what the block bypass valves are set to (ie, I've never seen a service manual that calls out the setting spec).
Once again I find myself in agreement with you.
In fact, I currently have a FL400S on my Villager. That filter has a bypass, and the block has a bypass. I don't see it as a risk; doubt any harm will come of it. I put it on by accident; grabbed the wrong filter at the OCI. Going to run it for my 10-15k mile dino OCI. As long as I'm running an extended OCI, I might as well be a pure heretic and run the "wrong" filter at the same time!
Technically, it shouldn't hurt to have two bypass valves (one in block + one in filter) ... knowing that the one with the lower opening setting will open first. Only thing to consider, is you wouldn't want to use a filter with a much less bypass setting than the valve in the block. I my experience, it's basically impossible to find out what the block bypass valves are set to (ie, I've never seen a service manual that calls out the setting spec).
Once again I find myself in agreement with you.
In fact, I currently have a FL400S on my Villager. That filter has a bypass, and the block has a bypass. I don't see it as a risk; doubt any harm will come of it. I put it on by accident; grabbed the wrong filter at the OCI. Going to run it for my 10-15k mile dino OCI. As long as I'm running an extended OCI, I might as well be a pure heretic and run the "wrong" filter at the same time!
Using Fram's oil filter look up, which is very respectable imo, from 2002 the first year for the Maxima 3.5L (VQ35DE) it shows either the longer 7317(Puro 14610) or from 2004 the shorty 6607(Puro 14612) till the present for the Maxima 3.5L. All those filter applications have an in filter bypass.
Having once removed and dissected a dealer installed Nissan 6607/14612 shorty equivalent and posted pics, the Nissan oem uses an in filter bypass as shown below. Engine bypass considerations don't appear to be a factor here.
Having once removed and dissected a dealer installed Nissan 6607/14612 shorty equivalent and posted pics, the Nissan oem uses an in filter bypass as shown below. Engine bypass considerations don't appear to be a factor here.
dnewton3
Staff member
YOu may be right.
All I know is that the two filters they were discussing (FL822 and 816) both have no bypass in them. It obviously has to be specific to the application; I agree with that. I was only going on the discussion they predicated with the stated filters.
BTW - I just posted a UOA on my VG30E with 10k miles on Walmart dino oil and a Puro Classic. The wear and contamination and insolubles were all right in line with normal macro expectations; the engine did VERY well with those products for 10k miles.
As I've stated before, the selection of filters is secondary to the two main controlling factors; oil add-pack and OCI duration. Too much data (UOA field evidence) and clinical lab data (such as SAE studies) to say otherwise.
All I know is that the two filters they were discussing (FL822 and 816) both have no bypass in them. It obviously has to be specific to the application; I agree with that. I was only going on the discussion they predicated with the stated filters.
BTW - I just posted a UOA on my VG30E with 10k miles on Walmart dino oil and a Puro Classic. The wear and contamination and insolubles were all right in line with normal macro expectations; the engine did VERY well with those products for 10k miles.
As I've stated before, the selection of filters is secondary to the two main controlling factors; oil add-pack and OCI duration. Too much data (UOA field evidence) and clinical lab data (such as SAE studies) to say otherwise.
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Quote:
.....All I know is that the two filters they were discussing (FL822 and 816) both have no bypass in them.....
The FL822 previously linked here by ZO shows it has a Purolator flat spiral spring dome end bypass, same as the PL/L14160/14612.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...446#Post1521446
.....All I know is that the two filters they were discussing (FL822 and 816) both have no bypass in them.....
The FL822 previously linked here by ZO shows it has a Purolator flat spiral spring dome end bypass, same as the PL/L14160/14612.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...446#Post1521446
@ the OP: is there a specific reason you don't want to run OEM filters?
The primary reason people like MC filters is that the most popular ones have a silicone ADBV, a threaded-end bypass, and they're easily found for a reasonable cost. Since the FL-822 has none of those features, there's nothing special about it.
Well OK...it's made in the USA, so I guess that makes it special.
The primary reason people like MC filters is that the most popular ones have a silicone ADBV, a threaded-end bypass, and they're easily found for a reasonable cost. Since the FL-822 has none of those features, there's nothing special about it.
Well OK...it's made in the USA, so I guess that makes it special.
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If the Nissan OEM supplied by the dealer is the one I posted on the first page, imo nothing very special construction-wise about it. Nitrile adbv and fiber endcaps made in China. That plus it's the shorty version of the longer more media area 14610/7317. Also it's not exactly a media area leader.
The L14610 and the FL822 have more media area than said Nissan OEM. Can see more about the Nissan shorty OEM and the Honda A-02 in the link below.
Nissan (shorty) OEM & Honda A-02
The L14610 and the FL822 have more media area than said Nissan OEM. Can see more about the Nissan shorty OEM and the Honda A-02 in the link below.
Nissan (shorty) OEM & Honda A-02
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
@ the OP: is there a specific reason you don't want to run OEM filters?
The primary reason people like MC filters is that the most popular ones have a silicone ADBV, a threaded-end bypass, and they're easily found for a reasonable cost. Since the FL-822 has none of those features, there's nothing special about it.
Yep ... the FL-822 is basically just a Purolator Classic L14610. I'd spend a couple bucks more and step up to the PureOne PL14610.
sayjac knows his filters for the Nissans.
@ the OP: is there a specific reason you don't want to run OEM filters?
The primary reason people like MC filters is that the most popular ones have a silicone ADBV, a threaded-end bypass, and they're easily found for a reasonable cost. Since the FL-822 has none of those features, there's nothing special about it.
Yep ... the FL-822 is basically just a Purolator Classic L14610. I'd spend a couple bucks more and step up to the PureOne PL14610.
sayjac knows his filters for the Nissans.
I guess I'm spoiled...the OE filter for my cars is the FL820S and I can get them at Wally's for under $4.
I also use OE for my sister's and BIL's Toyotas as well...they are reasonably priced at the local dealer.
I also use OE for my sister's and BIL's Toyotas as well...they are reasonably priced at the local dealer.
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