What method to use to set toe after repairs?

[BigD1]

What methods are you guys using to set toe after repairs to steering components?

I am going to be replacing many steering parts on my Toyota truck this weekend, weather permitting, so I need a good method to get the toe close. Going to be replacing the inner and outer tie rods plus the adjusting sleeves. Factory service manual has a starting assembled length of 12 3/8 inches with equal threads showing on the inner and outer tie rods. That will get me close, but I still want to use what ever method to set the toe, so I can get it to a shop without destroying my new tires to do a wheel alignment.

 

[seanf]

I use a tape measure from inner tire groove to inner tire groove and try and get measurements in front of the tire and the back of the tire within 1/8". It takes a while as I center the steering wheel and eyeball the driver front tire to make sure its straight and measure and adjust passenger side, road test, if the steering wheel is off center I add toe on one side and remove on the other to correct, double check my measurements and road test again, then I check with tape measure again.

I'm still driving like this on one car I've changed the steering rack on and no issues 8k km later, I need to replace the outer tierods on it since I noticed a hole in the boot then I'll take it for a proper alignment.

 

[WobblyElvis]

ON Flat level ground with steering wheel straight ahead. Put your eyes down low in front of the truck and look across the outer edge of the front tires towards the rear tires. This line of sight, should just miss the rear tires slightly to the outside. If you want more toe in, adjust so that the line of sight misses the rear tires more. Take into account the front and rear track. If the vehicle is to have toe out, then looking across the outer edges of the front tires will show a little of the rear tires. Make both sides similar.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

No. What if the rear axle is 2 " narrower than the front?

I fell for that once.

Tiller straight ahead on a fairly level road, wax String the fronts to extend their steering angle to show skew. You will see the extended steering angle easily.
You can use a plank with eyelets screwed in at the ends lays along the tire (wheel). rotate tires 1/3 turn and double check. Adjust for ZERO toe on FWD to slightest toe on RWD.

I hear you can do good things with a garage wall and laser pointers now too

 

[supton]

I had a 1x2 board by about 6', and I found a block of wood to make a large L stick out of that. Block of wood about 90 degrees on the 1x2.

I used rubber cement to stick on a tape measure; it doesn't have to go all the way down the wood.

Stick the L behind a wheel, put it onto the bulge of the tire (fattest part), and put the 1x2 next to the tire. Make sure it's on both tires. Take a square and go to the other side, drop it down, record the number. Flip the L stick to the other side of the tire, again use the square, record the number. Toe is the difference.

I tried to get the 1x2 against the tire, and to get about halfway up the tire with the square bits. Going for consistency and reputability. Tires dead ahead of course, while on flat ground.

 

[Fattylocks]

I replaced a tie rod end and the steering rack on our Focus wagon after a hit and run driver banged into the wheel/tire.
Good times on the garage floor in January. Wish they would have creamed the fender.
Counted all the threads and the replacement parts matched the OEM Ford stuff perfectly but the steering wheel was way off and it pulled hard to one side.
To line everything up I used a long piece of string. Tied it to the back wheel and ran it all the way around the fronts to the other back wheel. Carefully tweaked it till I a had a bit of toe, about 1/8 of an inch both sides.
Worked out OK.

 

[demarpaint]

I measure and count threads. I found measuring is more accurate. When I'm done I get an alignment. The last time I needed a tie rod I paid a local shop. For the price including an alignment it was money well spent. It was the dead of winter, and messing with it in the freezing cold was not on the top of my priority list.

 

[Rand]

Lots of good reading in here I usually go with the Seanf option
If I cant get it in for an alignment for a few days.. or its a beater.


Originally Posted By: seanf
I use a tape measure from inner tire groove to inner tire groove and try and get measurements in front of the tire and the back of the tire within 1/8". It takes a while as I center the steering wheel and eyeball the driver front tire to make sure its straight and measure and adjust passenger side, road test, if the steering wheel is off center I add toe on one side and remove on the other to correct, double check my measurements and road test again, then I check with tape measure again.

I'm still driving like this on one car I've changed the steering rack on and no issues 8k km later, I need to replace the outer tierods on it since I noticed a hole in the boot then I'll take it for a proper alignment.

 

[supton]

Not sure why counting threads on a tie rod works--that assumes they are made the same. Distance from the joint to the adjustment nut would be better. Heck, before doing the job, hold the new tie rod up against old, spin the nut to match. Mark the rod somehow, measure, etc. Then count threads and see if it's close.

 

[Olas]

I bought Dunlop gauges off eBay. Look down the periscope and adjust the track rods.
Simples

 

[Handon]

Just recently replaced tie rods, ends, and sway bar end links and did the string alignment, where you basically set up jack stands in in front and behind the car, just out to the sides and tie a string between the front and back, make sure the back wheel is exactly squared up to the line by measuring from the front and back of the rim on the back and then measure the front and adjust until it's squared up. If that makes any sense

 

[BigD1]

Watched a lot of videos about the various methods on Youtube. Going to just use a tape measure to measure across on the front and back side of the tires. I think it should be close enough, so I don't shred the tires apart going to get a front end alignment. Think I will run a chalk line around the center line of tread instead of just measuring off a tread. Might just be wasting my time doing it that way though.

 

[BigD1]

Originally Posted By: seanf
I use a tape measure from inner tire groove to inner tire groove and try and get measurements in front of the tire and the back of the tire within 1/8". It takes a while as I center the steering wheel and eyeball the driver front tire to make sure its straight and measure and adjust passenger side, road test, if the steering wheel is off center I add toe on one side and remove on the other to correct, double check my measurements and road test again, then I check with tape measure again.

I'm still driving like this on one car I've changed the steering rack on and no issues 8k km later, I need to replace the outer tierods on it since I noticed a hole in the boot then I'll take it for a proper alignment.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: BigD1
... Think I will run a chalk line around the center line of tread instead of just measuring off a tread. ...
Good plan, because the tread ribs aren't necessarily perfectly true with respect to the bead. Using tread ribs should be less inaccurate if you do it several times with the tires at random orientations, and average the results.

 

[chunt]

I've had good luck using the string method. I use two jack stands with a string from front to rear with just a touch of toe in on the front wheels.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

And all this doesn't matter of it doesn't drive well with minimal toe. You can Leave the links loose and tweek it as needed.

You do need to be able to tell when a car is over toed by steering feel.

If you cant you can feel that - read the tread feathers. Its amazing how a tiny toe change can radically affect handing on a mac strut front end.