Guy on you tube VS SME (subject matter experts)

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I come from the gun world where there is a LOT of clueless people giving out "advice" and "tutorials".
I watched several you tube videos on changing ford flex inner tie rod and in all instances people were using a zip tie to hold the boot down.
Being a rust belt hostage ahem I mean resident I thought that it didn't make any sense with the water and the salt.
I get ahold and of the shop manual and it SPECIFICALLY states not to use the zip tie method, ever.
Same thing for these guys cranking on the steering rack alone on one side only. You are supposed to secure the other side of the rack (usually a 2 person job).
So if I followed what pretty much what every one on you tube did I would be out about 1200 dollars for the rack and probably 1000 for the labor.

 

[fantastic]

Many of us have seen exactly what you speak about. It's like how easy it is to regurgitate memes on FB. Grabbing onto someone else's "direction" rather than thinking or learning the factual instructions themselves. It's what I say about YT and other channels..."discretion advised" and "watcher beware". "Critical thinking" is something that is not pushed enough.

 

[bdcardinal]

When you get a Motorcraft one it comes with a boot and clamps

 

[IndyIan]

It's always a balance between time and money and tools, how idiot proof a part is, and expected life span. I did the same job on my Focus recently, and I made sure not to torque on one side of the steering rack with a single wrench because that could be a instant catastrophic failure, but I didn't buy new boots(they seemed good/pliable) or and don't have the crimper to reseal the boot, but I have some very good wire reinforced zip ties. The car is likely going to the wreckers in less than 3 years so I bet that my repair will last long enough to get it there! With the cross tube to equalize air pressure between the boots, there should be no differences in air pressure when steering.
If the car was a long term keeper, then it gets done the right way as it needs to last 10+ more years, but when its value is near zero and I have limited time I want to play master mechanic, I don't mind taking some calculated short cuts, and use what I've got.
Sometime though, I should get a boot clamp crimper though for CV joints and these, but also I haven't had a CV boot fail since like 2003?

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Here is one thing I dont get. Why do I have to hold the steering rack from the other side? RH/LH?
"NOTICE: The steering gear rack must be held while loosening or tightening the inner tie rod ordamage to the steering gear may occur. Place the steering gear at the center position. Use anappropriate-sized wrench on the flat/teeth of the rack to resist rotation and to prevent damageduring removal of the inner tie rod.NOTE: An assistant will be needed to hold the steering gear rack on the LH side when servicing theRH inner tie rod."

 

[IndyIan]

Here is one thing I dont get. Why do I have to hold the steering rack from the other side? RH/LH?
"NOTICE: The steering gear rack must be held while loosening or tightening the inner tie rod ordamage to the steering gear may occur. Place the steering gear at the center position. Use anappropriate-sized wrench on the flat/teeth of the rack to resist rotation and to prevent damageduring removal of the inner tie rod.NOTE: An assistant will be needed to hold the steering gear rack on the LH side when servicing theRH inner tie rod."

I assume the rack isn't really designed to handle a lot of twisting of the shaft. So if your inner tie rod is rusted or really stuck, you could break whatever keeps the shaft from twisting! Obviously this isn't always the case, but the procedure is written for the worst case.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

But why cant I hold the steering rack still on the same side when I twist the inner tie rod off? Why must I have someone else hold the other side?

 

[IndyIan]

But why cant I hold the steering rack still on the same side when I twist the inner tie rod off? Why must I have someone else hold the other side?

Is there a flat on the same side? There wasn't on mine, but I saw a guy on youtube just grab the very end of the shaft with a monkey wrench, and I was pretty sure it doesn''t normally go into the rack that far In any case I was getting the job done that day, by myself and I figured a slightly leaking rack seal isn't the end of the world, if that happened, and it didn't. I was planning on running some fine grit sand paper over the teeth marks but I forgot, and the marks were quite shallow.
For me I find the hack mechanic videos fairly useful, as I certainly don't follow them exactly, but I use my judgement and sometimes they have a some useful tricks, to get me back on the road without a $20k of tools.
Would I want to pay dealership rates for this type of work? no, but for guys beating book time, they probably do a few things not in the service manual procedure that don't result in come-backs.

 

[D60]

Some vehicles can't practically accept a proper clamp without removing the rack or dropping front suspension components. '07 CX-9 is one and I'd assume the early Edge is the same. The aftermarket boot kits often come with zip ties.

I do actually have a right angle clamp tool, also, but never tried to use it -- yet

If there's access, there's no excuse for not using a real clamp. If not, I don't fault a guy for using a zip tie.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Some vehicles can't practically accept a proper clamp without removing the rack or dropping front suspension components. '07 CX-9 is one and I'd assume the early Edge is the same. The aftermarket boot kits often come with zip ties.

I do actually have a right angle clamp tool, also, but never tried to use it -- yet

If there's access, there's no excuse for not using a real clamp. If not, I don't fault a guy for using a zip tie.

They make a clamp tool that is basically a tiny rectangle.