No my workplace.
What is your home's voltage today (07/02/2026)?
- Thread starter ripcord
- Start date
Maybe 50 y ears ago the brought a Power Plant on line by synchronizing the frequency. Those days I believe are long gone (in the U.S)
Con Edison in New York can reduce by a maximum of 8%
Currently 0 at my house. Storm came thru and dropped a tree on the power lines. ;-)
Oh, no! Is the beer still cold?
I got it now.
The motel property I maintain has a 208/120 service its just about always dead on 212v when checking stoves, and hvac equipment
My house is at 119/120 V. Normally it’s around 123. Yesterday I was at a customer’s home and they were at 113/114v. In both homes at was a solid 60.0 hz. The poco here guarantees that power will be within 6% (so 114 to 126). So they were close to within/within spec, but it was on the edge.
I texted an electrician friend who said that they see this all the time during heavy grid use. I never thought about it until the other day.
I texted an electrician friend who said that they see this all the time during heavy grid use. I never thought about it until the other day.
115 down to 110. AC runs most of the time. 100 today but the humidity is only in the forties which makes it bearable.
Just saw a report that Data centers in the Mid Atlantic have been told to run on their backup generators to prevent blackouts. Of course certain people are objecting saying that the diesel fumes will raise pollution. Some of them are probably on Nat gas.
back in the day 110 motors would operate on voltages down to around 90v not ideal torque would be low amp draw higher most electrical appliances were designed around 107, 115 and 117v before a modern more efficient grid of 110/120-220/240v. Motors were made beefy years ago heavy casings heavy copper windings added stress and heat from under voltage wouldn’t take them out so easily.
By electrical standards equipment has to be designed to operate 10% of its absolute lowest voltage rating. So a unit designed to operate 208-230/240v for 208 that’s 187v. Sensitive electronics such as logic boards and inverters are much more finicky and pose a higher risk of being taken out by low voltages.
By electrical standards equipment has to be designed to operate 10% of its absolute lowest voltage rating. So a unit designed to operate 208-230/240v for 208 that’s 187v. Sensitive electronics such as logic boards and inverters are much more finicky and pose a higher risk of being taken out by low voltages.
A long time ago when our kids were little, a splice at our power pole let go and we had a big voltage sag. The lights went very dim and all the magic smoke escaped from our old CRT TV set (which was off). Pe-ew! Luckily our PC's and other electronics survived long enough for me to kill the power at the mains.
Most accurate measurement would be at the panels main breaker checking off a wall receptacle depending on house load and where that receptacle is in the circuit could be significant voltage drop.
I used a Kill-a-Watt meter to measure mine. It looks like some folks are showing output from a UPS (Un-interuptible Power Supply).
Did you lose the neutral that happens and 120v appliances see 240 and you’ll get the smoke show with no magic.
Its a unit of my own design that publishes to HomeAssistant. I have a whole panel energy monitor that I made, CT (Current Transformers), as well as PT (Potential-Voltage Transformers). Overkill for residential but its fun for me. This way I can actually measure the true power and not just the Voltage*Current (Magnitude) that most consumer energy monitors (at least for whole panel) are setup for. It takes into account Distortion as well as Displacement Power Factor to arrive at the true power. While the unit obviously has no 3rd party lab credentials it was enough for me to dispute the power companies meter that had drifted with age and get them to change meters and issue me a refund a few years back.
I'm really not sure about that. I figured it was a voltage drop because the incandescent live bulbs got very dim.
Unbalanced load from a lost neutral. leg a could have dropped to 90v leg b shot up to 150v if the lights that dimmed were on leg a that would have been why.
Similar threads
