What is this horrible gunk?

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I'd pull an oil sample and send it in. The lab will definitely tell you if it is antifreeze or water. A lab sample is about 20-25 bucks and much cheaper than an unnecessary head gasket replacement.

The most probable explanation is usually the most simple one.
Since the car isn't consuming antifreeze, no increase in oil level, I'd do the following fixes while you wait for the lab results on the sample to come back.

1. Replace PCV valve. I suspect your problem is primarily due to short trips and possibly a sticky PCV valve.
2. Auto-RX or use a harsher engine flush to clean out any possible sludge
3. Drive the vehicle on the highway for a minimum of 20 minutes at highspeeds at least once a week.

Please let us know what the oil lab results are if you pull a sample and send it in.
 
The 2.8 12v motor has no PCV valve. Instead, there is a bulletproof rubber flap valve in the intake silencer. Checking the breather hoses and connection between intake silence and throttle body won't hurt.

The coolant light comes on if the coolant is too hot. How could the coolant have been hot after a few minutes? There is another sensor in the coolant expansion tank, and that's as far as I know a coolant level sensor. However, I don't think this thing is hooked up, at least on my car I don't get an idiot light if that sensor is not plugged in. I suspect it's only functional if the vehicle is equipped with a multi functional driver info system, which our old US import A4s didn't have yet. Euro versions had that option, which may explain why at least the connector is present.

I can't believe that this problem is simply due to condensation. And condesation would not explain the massive oil loss.


By the way, welcome, Jestnomen1.

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I've seen cars worse then that just from condensation. I would probably spend the $20 on a used oil analysis before spending lots of money on any gaskets and such. Tell him to wind it out for a little each week.

-T
 
Gary, I'm not disagreeing, I'm just wondering where the oil went all of a sudden. I suppose that oil leaking into the coolant could cause oil to be burnt in quantities?

If that gunk is due to condensation, then something must be seriously wrong with the crankcase ventilation, I think -- although T-Keith thinks it's possible. I can't say for sure.

I believe checking the spark plugs for fouling is a good idea, and I would do that first.
 
Somebody pointed out that there was a small crack in the plastic valve cover near the filler hole. Maybe it's related to the problem? See the image link in my original post.
 
Somebody pointed out that there was a small crack in the plastic valve cover near the filler hole. Maybe it's related to the problem? See the image link in my original post.

Added via EDIT: forget it. The valve cover is made with two layers. That "crack" is a normal feature.

[ December 20, 2004, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: moribundman ]
 
quote:

condesation would not explain the massive oil loss.

True, but they don't have to necessarily be related. I would also offer that you don't usually see losses in both. That is, if coolant is entering the crackcase to contaminate the oil to that degree..why is the volume decreasing? That is, how is the coolant entering and the oil leaving via the same leak and NOT showing up in either the cooling system or the combustion chamber (500 miles for two quarts should "show" either in smoke or fouled plugs.

I'm just offering the "leave no stone unturned" approach here and not looking at the worst case situation without proof that it indeed exists. I would have a hard time rationalizing the expense of a set of head gaskets ...only find out that it was something in the $30 range ..if I had only eliminated all the $30 possibilities ahead of time.
 
1996-97 used the old G-11 coolant. I wonder if this car had G-12 or an OAT/Dexcool coolant switch at some point in life? That stuff will eat through gaskets if they are not compatible.
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I don't know what coolant he had in there, but I switched my '96 from G-11 to G-12 witout ill effects. His car is now at the shop. I guess we'll find out what's going on before the end of the week.
 
Hey guys, got my oil and coolant results back.No hydrocarbons in the coolant. They pressure tested the system and it checks out ok. The tech suggested I remove the valve covers and clean up all the condensation, and also remove the oil pan and clean out all moisture. He blamed it on my short trips to and from work without letting the car reach operation temp.

Yeah I've been using G12 coolant.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/Jestnomen/5ebbd510.jpg

[ December 22, 2004, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: Jestnomen1 ]
 
Ah-HA!!! So ..........

quote:

would have me first looking for some external leak (loose hose clamps that would allow leakage only during a brief period where pressure is elevating, but coolant temp isn't high enough to swell hoses). I'd have a cold pressure check done (on of those hand pumps that fits on the rad cap).

and ....

quote:

Lots of moisture ..no temp to purge it. The stuff condenses and eventually emulsifies.

so....

quote:

..this head gasket is innocent until proven faulty")

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Another thing to consider: If your heater isn't getting as hot as it used to, or it seems like the air isn't as warm during some conditions you may have a partially stuck thermostat. This would prevent your oil from getting hot regardless of the length of your trips. It would also result is slightly reduced fuel economy.
 
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