What is the best way to lubricate door locks?
- Thread starter Shel_B
- Start date
Try this:
www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE
This is the only lube that works under all conditions......
www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE
This is the only lube that works under all conditions......
Squirt some triflow in there
XW20 
Sounds like you've answered your own question
I found out about Houdini lubricant on this forum.. best stuff I've ever used for a lock! Couple of squirts and bam! Haven't had a problem since! I'm going to sound like a commercial, I just was blown away at how good it is! 
Edit: I got mine at Lowes.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Protexall-Products-oz-Houdini/1001063238
Edit: I got mine at Lowes.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Protexall-Products-oz-Houdini/1001063238
Victor lock deicer 
What's the lubricant in the Houdini? States right on the spray can, no teflon, silicone, grease, oil, or graphite, then some reviewers state it smells like citrus making me suspect it does have citrus oil in it, and the SDS also states "Proprietary blend of base oils and solvents", so how can the container claim no oil?
Anyway, I just use a light spray can oil but if it seems gummed up from contamination (or graphite), I flush it out with WD-40 first, a little squirt then let it sit to soften gunk then a longer squirt, wait several minutes then only a little spray oil.
I don't drive or park in particularly dusty areas so haven't had the oil collect sufficient grime to clog up cylinder pins. Plus I'd have to check to be sure but am under the impression that most of not all my vehicle door/hatch locks have a cover plate that seems to do well enough to keep gunk out, though I'm not so sure about (low surface tension) soapy water from washing the vehicle.
I just spray a little more in every few years, never had a problem. More problematic have been the door latch mechanisms, needing spray greased every now and then, especially on spring pivot points to slow down wear-through on those contact areas.
Anyway, I just use a light spray can oil but if it seems gummed up from contamination (or graphite), I flush it out with WD-40 first, a little squirt then let it sit to soften gunk then a longer squirt, wait several minutes then only a little spray oil.
I don't drive or park in particularly dusty areas so haven't had the oil collect sufficient grime to clog up cylinder pins. Plus I'd have to check to be sure but am under the impression that most of not all my vehicle door/hatch locks have a cover plate that seems to do well enough to keep gunk out, though I'm not so sure about (low surface tension) soapy water from washing the vehicle.
I just spray a little more in every few years, never had a problem. More problematic have been the door latch mechanisms, needing spray greased every now and then, especially on spring pivot points to slow down wear-through on those contact areas.
I believe it depends on the environment. Water intrusion and dust ingress can gunk up the mechanism and also cause corrosion and wear. On many cars key-operated door locks are nothing but an emergency feature.
Don't use graphite. It used to be widely sold as a lock lubricant, but the dirty little secret is it can be corrosive to certain metals. It can also accumulate and cause its own problems. I have locksmith training, and nowhere in the literature was graphite recommended.
Spray a little WD-40 or similar light lube on the key, wipe off the excess, then insert it in the lock and rotate the key to lock and unlock the door. Avoid spraying the lube directly into the lock.
The idea is to minimize wear on the tumblers as much as to keep the lock free.
Spray a little WD-40 or similar light lube on the key, wipe off the excess, then insert it in the lock and rotate the key to lock and unlock the door. Avoid spraying the lube directly into the lock.
The idea is to minimize wear on the tumblers as much as to keep the lock free.
Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely look into what you've said.
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