My 2000 Toyota Echo recently has CEL on with P0440. I cleared the code and re-installed the gas cap several times, but the code kept coming back. I notice when I remove the gas cap there is no hissing sound (i.e. no vapor escaping). It is a good thing that the car passed the MD emission test before the code showed up. When I cleared the code, it took a day for it to re-appear. So, next emission test due two years later I just clear the code prior the emission test. My questions: 1) Will the emission test center still be able to detect the code even the CEL is off? 2) What is the consequence of not fixing the code like damage to the engine or emission related parts? Thanks.
What if I don't fix p0440?
- Thread starter sifan
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if you remove the battery for about 30secs before you go in to the test, it should re flash the memory removing all past codes so they don't show up, but if something is seriously wrong with the evap system it will still show up in your emissions..
For cars made in 1997 and later they connect the OBD socket with their test machine and increase the engine idle during thest test without physically checking the tailpipe emission. If the code does not trigger the CEL right away, it should not register in their machine, right? I have a code reader that can clear the stored codes without disconnecting the battery.
Will a faulty evap system affect the engine performance or cause any damage to the car? If not, I will just ignore the code to save on the repair cost. I am more concerning about the green in my pocket than the green environment.
Will a faulty evap system affect the engine performance or cause any damage to the car? If not, I will just ignore the code to save on the repair cost. I am more concerning about the green in my pocket than the green environment.
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The only thing a faulty evap system affect is your emissions and MAYBE your mpg minutely, but emission is a key part of a state evaluation, depending on if its a small hose leak or a part failure you may pass, you may not, but if you have to get inspected yearly you might as well fix it..
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I drive 16 local miles round trip daily to work and still get 34 mpg (with snow tires) currently. There is no annual inspection required for cars in Maryland, where I live.
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I wouldn't worry about it, my grand am threw that code all the time, and even after being performance modified and not driving it exactly nice, I still barely fell below the EPA's estimated MPG constantly..
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I dunno if they do it here or not, but when they plug in your car to the OBD-II port, if you haven't completed your drive cycle yet after clearing codes, or changing batteries, you fail the test.
Basically if you clear the codes and take it in, you will fail because the computer is not ready yet.
Basically if you clear the codes and take it in, you will fail because the computer is not ready yet.
Hmmmm... This really got me worried now. How long is the drive cycle?
This should help you. I've heard sometimes the monitors will change to ready after 45 min of driving, some people have had it take 3 hours of driving. The only way to really verify this is if you have an Emissions Ready light on your code reader.
http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html
Just curious, have you replaced the gas cap yet? If the vent is not working right, it would throw the same code as if it's not working at all.
Also, this doesn't explicitly state this if for the Echo, but it is a toyota drive cycle:
http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html
Just curious, have you replaced the gas cap yet? If the vent is not working right, it would throw the same code as if it's not working at all.
Also, this doesn't explicitly state this if for the Echo, but it is a toyota drive cycle:
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Yep, after you clear the codes, the car computer will not restart for 25-50 miles. If the computer is off, you fail inspections, I know, have dealt with this in boston a bunch. OBDII scanner will show whether the computer is off or on.
Originally Posted By: sifan
I drive 16 local miles round trip daily to work and still get 34 mpg (with snow tires) currently. There is no annual inspection required for cars in Maryland, where I live.
Then you have nothing to worry about.
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A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
I drive 16 local miles round trip daily to work and still get 34 mpg (with snow tires) currently. There is no annual inspection required for cars in Maryland, where I live.
Then you have nothing to worry about.
Quote:
A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
- The gas cap is not installed or working properly
- The purge solenoid has failed
- The canister is plugged and not working properly
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If you clear the codes, you will need a substantial amount of start/stops to pass.
This safety is built in the computer so people don't simply erase their codes while waiting in line at the testing station.
So what's wrong with your EVAP ?
Is the cap correct [even if new]?
Vacuum leaks, lines and connections next.
Then, electrical connections and the valve itself.
This safety is built in the computer so people don't simply erase their codes while waiting in line at the testing station.
So what's wrong with your EVAP ?
Is the cap correct [even if new]?
Vacuum leaks, lines and connections next.
Then, electrical connections and the valve itself.
Disconnecting the battery does not clear codes on OBD2 cars. It may move them into history, but the codes are still there.
I don't know what is wrong with the EVAP system. I am starting with the replacement of gas cap, which costs $32 at the Toyota dealer (I wonder if the high price has to do with the recent disaster in Japan). They have to special order it, which won't arrive till this Wednesday. I will keep you updated when I replace the gas cap. I hope this will fix it.
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you shouldn't need to buy a toyota gas cap. Any Stant or whatever brand should be more than adequate anyway.
If my understanding correctly: your P0440 on Toy relating to EVAP system would be of similar/code or nature to that of the known Corolla EVAP issue, where it may call for a replacement in order to fully allievate the code from returning.
If replacing fuel filler cap doesn't work then you might consider the options.
Q.
If replacing fuel filler cap doesn't work then you might consider the options.
Q.
Originally Posted By: EricF
you shouldn't need to buy a toyota gas cap. Any Stant or whatever brand should be more than adequate anyway.
Nope.
Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.
I've replaced many many aftermarket caps due to evap leaks.
you shouldn't need to buy a toyota gas cap. Any Stant or whatever brand should be more than adequate anyway.
Nope.
Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.
I've replaced many many aftermarket caps due to evap leaks.
The gas cap may fix your CEL, or may not. There should be a diagram of the emissions system on the engine-side of your hood. Start looking for rotted vac hoses & elbows. The vac leak may also be in one of the many hoses on top of your gas tank.
Or to save time & money from throwing parts at it guessing, take it to your mechanic and have a smoke test done.
However if your state doesn't test emissions or scan for CEL's, then don't worry about it.
Or to save time & money from throwing parts at it guessing, take it to your mechanic and have a smoke test done.
However if your state doesn't test emissions or scan for CEL's, then don't worry about it.
I installed the new gas cap Wednesday afternoon with 3 turns and clicking sound, and cleared the code. This morning the code returned again. Just wasted $33 for the new gas cap. I am thinking of taking the car to a mechanic to avoid wasting more money on parts. Will this be a costly repair by a mechanic?
MD does not require annual car inspection like VA does, but it does require emission test every two years.
MD does not require annual car inspection like VA does, but it does require emission test every two years.
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Find a mechanic who knows what he is doing and has access to a good scanner which can initiate EVAP test. Look for easy stuff first such as hoses or corroded clamps near the filler neck. It is possible that filler neck has pinhole leak. To find that, you (or your mechanic) will need a smoke machine.
EVAP tests usually DON'T run when the tank is less than 1/4 or greater than 3/4th. You also get either one or two freebies as far as number of inspection monitors are allowed to be incomplete but this is a tricky business and it needs your own code scanner to time it right.
There is no guarantee that the mechanic or the dealer will NOT keep on throwing parts at it either.
Your best bet is to contact the MD state agency which is responsible for the air quality. Those guys will know the best place which handles the trickiest of emission repairs.
Since you have two more years, you can do lot of research until that time. There is ton of information on the web if you are willing to look.
- Vikas
EVAP tests usually DON'T run when the tank is less than 1/4 or greater than 3/4th. You also get either one or two freebies as far as number of inspection monitors are allowed to be incomplete but this is a tricky business and it needs your own code scanner to time it right.
There is no guarantee that the mechanic or the dealer will NOT keep on throwing parts at it either.
Your best bet is to contact the MD state agency which is responsible for the air quality. Those guys will know the best place which handles the trickiest of emission repairs.
Since you have two more years, you can do lot of research until that time. There is ton of information on the web if you are willing to look.
- Vikas
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