What gives!? (cooling/overheating issues)

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About 2 years ago, the wife's Cavalier (2200/auto) overheated on the freeway. Had the thermostat and radiator replaced. It overheated again shortly after. Thermostat was replaced again, still overheated. Thermostat was replaced a third time, and this fixed the problem.

Car has been fine for 2 years until it started running warm again, and eventually got to the point where it would almost overheat if left idling for any period of time. The radiator fan would come on, and barely keep the temp out of the red zone. Temp would come down some, but not all the way, once you get moving. Definitely not normal behavior, and would happen every time the car was driven.

On a hunch, given that we went through 3 thermostats before getting a "good" one, I replaced the thermostat again last weekend. Fired it up and had to shut it off before the engine overheated at idle. Radiator fan could not control the temperature at all.

Found no coolant in upper radiator hose. Added a gallon (all I had on hand) through the overflow reservoir and most of it got sucked down; reservoir stayed about half full. Must have simply not had enough coolant to control the temperature.

After doing this earlier today, I took it for a test drive. Three miles to get gas and 3 miles back; temperature stayed rock steady at the middle of the gauge. Problem fixed, I thought.

Turned the car off, went in and got the wife, and we decided to go to the store. By the time I had gotten back outside, the car had heat-soaked a bit and the gauge was reading higher than "normal," but I have the same car and this has always been typical behavior. Nothing to worry about, and it cooled down to halfway as we got moving.

Went on the freeway. Suddenly I watched the gauge climb steadily and by the time we got to where we were going, it was approaching the end of the "safe" zone. Parked, went inside for ~30 mins, and headed home.

When I started the car again to leave, the gauge was at 1/2 like it normally is. The whole way home, it stayed roughly at half, maybe slightly over, but where it should be. Did not overheat again.

Which leaves me wondering what happened.


Sticky (but brand new) thermostat? I'd believe it based on the fact it took 3 to get a good one last time.
Air in coolant? I let it boil over with the reservoir cap off after topping it up, so I would think I got any out.
New thermostat "break-in?" Is there such a thing?
Headgasket? I hear these engines like to blow them, but it seems unlikely given there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, the car is neither hard to start nor lacks power (well, for a Cavalier...)


I think for now I'll just monitor it and see if it comes close to overheating again. At that point I may just run it without a thermostat and see how it behaves. Outside temps are in the 100s for the foreseeable future so I don't think warming up will be a problem.

Or maybe I should just drain the ATF and replace the VSS. I'm sure that will fix my problem.
 
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Um.... No.
Well, at least on those last 2 idea's, no.
Why don't you actually drain, flush, and fill your cooling system with the specified coolant, actually BLEED the cooling system, then take it from there.
 
This is a long shot - but I'm going to guess that the water pump is not working properly. Perhaps the lack of circulation is causing the coolant temperature to skyrocket.
 
How would I test for that? Weep hole is not weeping, and bearings are not squeaking, which are the two things the service manual says to check for.
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
This is a long shot - but I'm going to guess that the water pump is not working properly. Perhaps the lack of circulation is causing the coolant temperature to skyrocket.


+1
My first though! How well was the coolant maintained over the years?
 
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Impellers (on the water pump) can erode, fallen off or otherwise disintegrate.

I had a vehicle like this, years ago. Never fixed it it. But some point later was told it might have been the radiator cap? Didn't make sense to me, but the system was full.
 
If the water pump were malfunctioning, the temperature control would not be an intermittent issue. It would always overheat. I would lean toward debris in the cooling system clogging passages, either in the block or the radiator.
Also, check the external condition of the radiator. Is it missing fins?
Start with a full cooling system flush and a new radiator cap (OEM cap only!).
 
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I'd replace the water pump- they are dirt cheap for those. One other thing I distinctly remember from when I had mine is that it always ran warm- the temp gauge would climb toward the high end of the "normal" range, before the radiator fan would kick on, until I started moving again. I do remember that it did that all the time. I think that could be normal behavior on those engines, because the radiator fans weren't set to come on until like 210 degrees.
 
These thermostats air-lock. Drill a couple 1/8" holes in the flange. You'll never notice the slower warm up.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
These thermostats air-lock. Drill a couple 1/8" holes in the flange. You'll never notice the slower warm up.


^^^this^^^

your system still has air in it.

I'd keep a wary eye on the fluid level. hoping you don't have a HG issue prompting the buildup of gasses in there.
 
+1
I worked on a mazda 626 that had an overheating problem with no obvious culprit so I swapped out the water pump and problem solved. Funny thing is the old water pump didn't seem worn out but was the cause.
 
Originally Posted By: gulian
+1
I worked on a mazda 626 that had an overheating problem with no obvious culprit so I swapped out the water pump and problem solved. Funny thing is the old water pump didn't seem worn out but was the cause.


Was the same with my Cherokee. The water pump didn't have the impellers worn off, it wasn't weeping and the bearing was good. Helped , though.
 
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Originally Posted By: meep
Originally Posted By: eljefino
These thermostats air-lock. Drill a couple 1/8" holes in the flange. You'll never notice the slower warm up.


^^^this^^^

your system still has air in it.

I'd keep a wary eye on the fluid level. hoping you don't have a HG issue prompting the buildup of gasses in there.


Wow, this sounds a lot like the issues that my (son's) Mark VIII is having. Just drill one (or two?) 1/8 holes in the face of the thermostat? I'd do it if we could finally solve this.
 
So I checked online and my cooling system does have bleed screws so I'll try that later. Radiator and coolant are only 2 years old so I doubt that is the issue. There are no signs of a HG leak, and I'd prefer to only have to mess with the water pump if I have to. Thanks for the suggestions; I don't know much at all about cooling systems.
 
Originally Posted By: Anduril


Or maybe I should just drain the ATF and replace the VSS. I'm sure that will fix my problem.


GHT is that you?

crazy.gif
thankyou2.gif
 
Did you open both bleeders, the one on the upper water outlet, and the one on the heater pipe?

Is the thermostat in the correct way?

Headgaskets on those usually fail on the bellhousing end externally. Another cooling system trouble spot is the block of metal that houses the upper water outlet and the EGR, the gasket between this block and the head likes to fail.
 
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Check the condition of the lower radiator hose. If it is collapsing it will cause it to overheat also.
 
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