What filter is considered best now?

Not sure if this is the correct thread but Amsoil has at the very least acknowledged that the struggle is real.

They know they have to monitor Champ. They have stated they use some level of size/control for the louvers but acknowledge the louvers will not always be beautiful. As far as bypass leaf spring there again was not divulging of dimensions but basically if the spring is flat the pressure will provide adequate seal.
The hope is if Amsoil(and others) keep the pressure on QC will improve.
 
As far as bypass leaf spring there again was not divulging of dimensions but basically if the spring is flat the pressure will provide adequate seal.
It also has to be free of ruffles, even if it is flat. Any company that hires another to make stuff for them needs to be watched to ensure they are making what you specified, without manufacturing quality errors. Been down that road many times in my career ... constant checking on how things are being produced and the QA of such items. Even oil filters need that kind of attention.
 
It also has to be free of ruffles, even if it is flat. Any company that hires another to make stuff for them needs to be watched to ensure they are making what you specified, without manufacturing quality errors. Been down that road many times in my career ... constant checking on how things are being produced and the QA of such items. Even oil filters need that kind of attention.
Flat equals free of ruffles. What do you think I meant?

Anyway of course on the rest. You don’t need to tell me this. It was my life for forty years
 
Flat equals free of ruffles. What do you think I meant?
To clarify, a leaf spring can still be "flat" and have ruffles. Flat and warped are two different things, regardless of ruffles or not. Some of these leaf springs are also possibly warped with ruffles. One that is "flat" with ruffles can still leak oil past the media. One that is warped and smooth without ruffles can still leak ... any time there is a notable leak gap anywhere between the leaf spring and end cap, there will be some level of leakage.

On a side note: One thing you can see on filters with a leaf spring and fiber end caps, and same with the OG Ultra with the fiber sealing ring built into the end cap, the impression left by the leaf spring is much heavier below the two ears where the main compressive force transmits through the leaf spring - more force going on in those two locations. On a metal-to-metal "seal" setup, the leaf spring and end cap need to be almost perfectly flat and smooth to get the best seal possible.

Anyway of course on the rest. You don’t need to tell me this. It was my life for forty years
I wasn't telling "you" ... I was making a general statement to all reading this about quality and my experience.
 
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To clarify, a leaf spring can still be "flat" and have ruffles. Flat and warped are two different things, regardless of ruffles or not. Some of these leaf springs are also possibly warped with ruffles. One that is "flat" with ruffles can still leak oil past the media. One that is warped and smooth without ruffles can still leak ... any time there is a notable leak gap anywhere between the leaf spring and end cap, there will be some level of leakage.


I wasn't telling "you" ... I was making a general statement to all reading this about quality and my experience.
OK yes, but to me if it has ruffles, it's not flat. But no matter, semantics. Anyway here is one of my messages to them:
"There is some merit to that IF the bypass flange is relatively flat. But we have seen some look like Ruffles potato chips. They simply will never flatten regardless of pressure. The design is not great, and it was all about saving money. The savvy buyer won't see the value in a top priced, but ordinary constructed Amsoil labeled (Fram/Champ) oil filter. There really should be a polymer/elastomer seal there, not metal-metal.

The flatness of the valve flange and louver opening control should be absolutely controlled. Amsoil will dedicate valuable resources to controlling design elements at the contractor level. Seems unwise, but I'm not in charge.


Thanks for the otherwise excellent updates!"
 
OK yes, but to me if it has ruffles, it's not flat. But no matter, semantics. Anyway here is one of my messages to them:
Yeah, word definitions. To me flat is flat, not warped. Smooth is smooth, no ruffles.

The leaf spring needs to be flat and smooth to get the best possible "seal" with a metal-to-metal interface between the leaf spring and end cap. A leaf spring can be smooth, but warped and cause a leak. A leaf spring could be flat and ruffled (not smooth), and cause a leak. If it's both not flat and not smooth, then possibly even a bigger leak.

If an engineer specified how the leaf spring should be made, the "sealing" area would have both a flatness spec and a smoothness spec. Ideally, not warped (flatness) and no ruffles (smoothness).
 
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Yeah, word definitions. To me flat is flat, not warped. Smooth is smooth, no ruffles.

The leaf spring needs to be flat and smooth to get the best possible "seal" with a metal-to-metal interface between the leaf spring and end cap. A leaf spring can be smooth, but warped and cause a leak. A leaf spring could be flat and ruffled (not smooth), and cause a leak. If it's both not flat and not smooth, then possibly even a bigger leak.

If an engineer specified how the leaf spring should be made, the "sealing" area would have both a flatness spec and a smoothness spec. Ideally, not warped (flatness) and no ruffles (smoothness).
ANSI Y14.5 we used the term "flatness" which would control things like ruffles on machined surfaces, and we use surface finish for smoothness.

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=ANSI+Y14.5+definition+of+"flatness"&ia=web

That said I rarely lived in the world of sheet metal and I know they often had their own terms.
 
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Not sure if this is the correct thread but Amsoil has at the very least acknowledged that the struggle is real.
Was going to mention that if Amsoil starts putting the pressure on Champ Labs to improve quality in louvers and leaf springs, then that could trickle down into all of the Champ Lab made filters.
 
Just my luck, I guess. Is said filter a junker, or ok enough to go ahead and use? I can always return it all if need be.
From what I can see, the louvers look wide open. Does it list an efficiency on the box? It's probably 99% @ 30u like some other Champ Labs made filters, like SuperTech.

What's your planned OCI?
 
I would say neighborhood of around 5-6k. Wife's ram is about 5600 on current oil. Plan to change it before we leave on vacation at end of August. Now that wife is stay at home mom, it doesn't rack up the miles quite like it used to.

The F150, I am terrible about keeping track of miles. I typically change twice a year, whether it needs it or not. Spring in time for fishing with boat, and fall before deer season. A bit off this year, as I held off the oil change till I got oil pan gasket replaced. I set the oil life to 80% when I change it, and always change before it hits 20%. Even with later than normal change time, I was still well over that 20%. It's not my daily. When we bought Wife's ram, we kept her '08 Avenger, and I mostly drive that, for work, to save $$$ on gas.


Filter doesn't list efficiency. This is all the info it gives.

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^^^ I bet it's basically a SuperTech in an STP can, so 99% @ 30u which also the same as the new Mobil 1 filter. If the louvers are nice and open it would be OK for that OCI. Next time you could get the better version of get a Carquest Premium of MicroGard Select. If you want, take a good photo of the center tube and post it for verification.
 
My wife has a Dodge Journey Crossroad with a 2.4l engine. 180,000 miles on it. It uses the same size filter as a Hemi.
I’ve tried many different oil filters through the years. Fram Ultra, orange Extra & Tough guard, Bosch, Purolator One & Boss, Wix, and more that I can’t remember.
The best oil filter that I could actually hear a difference on the lifter ticking noise was Mopar MO-339. It was quieter than other filters. I’m guessing it has to do with the pressure?
 
The best oil filter that I could actually hear a difference on the lifter ticking noise was Mopar MO-339. It was quieter than other filters. I’m guessing it has to do with the pressure?
No new oil filter is reducing oil flow enough to cause that, especially at idle or low RPM when the oil flow volume from the pump is low. Did you change the oil brand and/or viscosity at the same time?
 
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