What equipment needed for oil changes and etc..

[NorrisB]

Noob here looking for advice on what equipment I need for maintenance. I already have rhino ramps and an oil wrench as well as a good socket set.


Oil changes: I have a rhino ramps and a oil wrench, but the thought of going under the car still scares me, are there any other things (for example jack stands) to use along side these ramps to add redundancy in case one fails?

regular maintenance- tire rotation, brakes etc... What equipment do i generally need? How many jack stands and can someone recommend me a good jack havent really seen any.

 

[RiceCake]

Biggest thing with Rhino Ramps is be careful not to drive off the end and/or slide on them. Apply the parking brake too when they're up there. That should be pretty solid. You can put jack stands under the jacking points or under something solid (like the sway bar) so you have extra. I only use two jack stands, but I still like leaving my jack resting under the jacking point, so if anything falls it can at least hit the jack on the way down. Its good you're scared; just make sure you use common sense and you should be fine, but its important not to get over confident. I've neglected to set the parking brake once and my car almost slid off my jack stands...was an eye opener.

For oil changes though, its mostly "ifs". A socket set should be all you need...and plenty of rags and a drain pan. If the oil filter is stuck on a good strap wrench is extremely useful. Other then that its hard to say what else. Maybe a torque wrench if you're a gorilla or paranoid; some pans are aluminium and its a bad nightmare to strip it.

Tire rotation and brakes are pretty simple. You'll need a jack stand for that as Rhino Ramps won't permit tire removal. A good form of redundancy there is to drop the car on a jack stand and leave your hydraulic jack for backup. Rotating tires, I throw my spare tire on and do them all one by one. Slow, pain in the [censored], but I don't have four jack stands to do the job that way.

Four jack stands is probably good to have. Heavier steel ones are usually impossible to screw up and buy bad (I bought mine from a surplus metal shop). As for jacks, hard to say. I bought mine from a local hardware store for like $50 but I'm sure others would have advice on that one.

 

[randomhero439]

When i change the oil on my accord, i use one jack stand. I cant use ramps cause the car is very low.

When i change the oil on my civic, i use ramps. No jackstands, just make sure you pull the ebrake BEFORE you let off the brake pedal and put the car in park.

If you worried about the car falling, give it a couple good pushes on all sides to check. If you wana buy another tool, get a 3/8in torque wrench from Harbor Freight so you can torque the oil nut down to proper spec.

 

[Barkleymut]

the jack that comes with your car is fine, just put the car on jack stands once you have it up. I have never seen jackstands that wouldn't support a passenger vehicle, placement is the only concern.

 

[johnachak]

Wheel chocks and jack stands. I always put at least one stand under the car on the same side as I am on (just not in the way of course). Wheel chocks are always a good idea just in case the tires are not sitting in the ramp detents properly or if the parking pawl doesn't work properly or any other of several things that can make your car move without them. Put the chocks on both front and back of the wheel diagonally across from the wheel you are jacking. For example, if you are going to jack the left front wheel, chock the right rear tire. Don't forget a good oil change pan, something to bring the oil to a recycling place and rags (especially for the first few times...). Good luck and have fun!

 

[gathermewool]

Have you checked with the interwebs? I'm pretty sure they were talking about this not too long ago.

 

[teddyboy]

I'm with you on being nervous about raising the car. I changed my own oil for more than 30 years without ever raising the car. The key is there being enough ground clearance to slide the pan under the car. If you can get a pan under the drain plug, you should be able to put a wrench onto the drain plug by sliding part way under the car. The only trick then is getting to the filter. Fortunately I always had cars that you could access the filter without raising the car. Some cars have the filter at the very back of a transverse mounted engine. If that's the case, you won't be able to get to the filter without raising the car. In addition to the other things mentined, buy some oil dry (cat litter will do as well).

 

[wkcars]

Maybe a shop light or two to help see under the car. Also a funnel if you don't already have one.

 

[Rand]

2 jacks works good for rotating tires. just dont get under the car

 

[ECUpirate]

I use Rhino ramps, wheel chocks, jack stands, and a jack. I drive the car onto the ramps, set the E-brake, put the trans in P (or 1st gear on a manual trans), and chock the back wheels. Also, if I have to remove a wheel for anything and can't use the ramps, I use the jack stands and always slide the wheel under the car near where I'm working while leaving the jack barely touching the jacking surface. Another good tip would be to scour the net and pre-plan your job to become familiar with the process, such as what wrench/socket sizes or special tools you'll need, and have a plan of attack in order to reduce the amount of time you spend under there as well as reduce the amount of times you crawl in and out running back to your tool box, etc.

 

[Garak]

Lots of good advice here. Some use the factory jack with jack stands. I prefer to have two hydraulic shop jacks and jack stands so I don't have to wheel the jack around. I do like ramps, too, but I have limited use for them. They're too steep for the front of the G (great for rear end work though). A good ramp for the application is plenty safe, though.

Obviously, for tire rotations, ramps aren't going to cut it. My preference for that is four jack stands and an impact, and a torque wrench is a nice touch, of course. Depending upon the vehicle, TPMS issues may arise from rotations. Old vehicles don't have them. Some vehicles' systems don't care, but my G does.

The most important tool is often the factory service manual. That can save you a lot of grief, particularly if you wish to tackle brakes.

 

[jdawg89]

I use a hydraulic jack as well as a machanical hi lift depending on the job. For tire rotations 2 jack stands. 1 front 1 back dioagnoally. When using the ramps,put it in park set ebrake and put bloks of wood behind the tires on the ground.

 

[ajchien]

Sure, 2 redundant safety measures are always good. Rhino ramps + ebrake + extra jack stands + wheel chocks sound good to me.

As for the oil change itself... I'm not sure what an "oil wrench" is. Is it the oil filter wrench? Or the drain bolt wrench?

Nevertheless:
Wrench or socket +ratchet/breaker bar to take off oil drain bolt.
Drain pan to catch old oil.
Oil filter wrench to remove filter.
New oil filter.
New drain bolt gasket if your car needs one.
Funnel for new oil.
Oil.
Latex gloves.
Rags.


I'd say you can recoup your tool costs in 2-3 oil changes.

 

[bilibako2]

Rhino ramp-I Used left foot on brake and right foot on gas pedal
to drive it up to the ramp,I felt little thug when i hit the
end of the ramp then applied E-brake and placed piece of wood
at back of rear wheels.Open hood,removed oil cap,removed dipstick,going underneath-piece of flat cardboard,oil pan,
wrench,oil filter wrench(big fliers)rug,gloves,new oil filter with film of oil on the gasket,I used end cap oil filter wrench
to tighten new one.On new cars with filter element like those
new toyotas/lexus etc. etc. special tool to use to remove the
cannister.To put new gasket on oil pan bolt.I tighten it just a
snug,normally i can reuse gasket up to 7-8 times.Since my oil change at 4mos/4k miles.Gallon jug for used oil and bring it to
place were they accept used oil-Oreilly,autozone,pep boys,advance
auto. etc. etc.

 

[gregoron]

Don't forget OEM filters and drain plugs.

 

[JamesBond]

For oil changes I use a couple of stacks of newspapers or some flat boards to get the car an inch or two off the ground. I just drive up on them or push the car up on them and chock the wheels. The most handy tool is a large piece of cardboard to lie on. I have rhino ramps, jacks and jackstands but I don't need the car up that high, it makes the oil splash more, and the filter harder to reach. Plus its scarier. Try going under from behind the wheels with your head and shoulders under the car and your body perpendicular.

 

[PandaBear]

Depends on the car/truck.

All of my cars don't need to be raised for oil change and I have a shallow pan, and I can access the filter easily.

 

[Voltmaster]

invest in good hydrolic jack and jackstands,

Having right hieght jackstands is helpful, I got oversize one accidentally I leave two jacks ( one hydrolic and one came with car) on each side in addition since i cant put jack stands on main frame. Its prob extra 5-10 min each time i go under.

Get some good mechanic gloves, Harbor feights have them on sale. They are GREAT.

Get decent set of socket set and wrench, and oil disposal container. You only need one for rest of your life, so buy decent one.

 

[The_Jeff]

Sometimes you can park up on a curb/ sidewalk and buy space under the car that way. They put cuts in for wheelchairs but you can use 'em too.

Similarly you can park over a ditch if the earth is stable. It's intimidating being under a car but you get used to it.

First rule of the first oil change is not to fumble the drain plug either into the rapidly filling pan or a far corner of the garage. If the motor's hot the plug will be hot and if you haven't much experience you won't know how many complete turns before it comes apart and gushes out.

 

[Oldasco]

^Never thought about using a handicapped parking space as a bay to change oil!

When using ramps, have a buddy stand to side to help guide you onto ramp so you don't drive off them.