Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Its good to see Redline make the 10w60 grade for BMW, I wish they would just get it approved.
Red Line is a boutique formulator that chooses not to submit their oils to anyone for approval.
As A_Harman pointed out, RL recommends their VII free HTHSV 3.8cP 5w30 in place of the TWS 10W-60 for M series BMWs and not their own 10W-60. RL made the grade available because it's "popular" but it's not actually recommended by them. And with a HTHSV of 6.7cP it is indeed a extremely heavy oil; much more so than the 5.4cP TWS 10W-60, an oil that is know to shear as much as 25% in service. Even RL's 5W-50 (HTHSV 5.9cP) is still way heavier than TWS 10W-60.
If I had an M series BMW for which TWS 10W-60 was spec'd that's the only 10W-60 I would consider using. It's the oil that's important not the grade on the bottle. In reality this oil has the viscosity closer to that of a heavy 40wt oil in service. Way too much is made of the grade on the bottle.
I quoted this from another thread. It brings to mind the most common problem on oil forums - the label on the can (as I see it).
All day long people say to use the oil grade recommend in the owners manual. They answer the question as to the problems associated with using a grade below what is the OEM recommendation.
Never do these people take into account the actual, real viscosity of the oil when poured out of the can nor the viscosity after 500-1,000 miles of use. Many oils thin considerably in this period.
Then there is the engine related changes that occur as thinning from fuel dilution and shear forces.
Let’s next look at HTHS viscosity and the effects of shear and of fuel dilution. In the end the viscosity is most often radically different than what is advertised on that oil can label. So why do people most often refer to the label when only an oil analysis can tell what oil viscosity is being run in that engine?
My opinion is that most advice given here is misguided when trying to be specific with regards to viscosity. They assume the viscosity is stable. It is dependent on so many things. Many (some) oils resist viscosity changes by fuel dilution. Better VII compounds resist early breakdown and thinning. Other oils maintain original viscosities and may be higher or lower from the onset. One needs to be very, very specific about recommendations.
Is the viscosity actually that important? Should we be concerned about other criteria? There are so many within the realm of motor oil. This is one of the reasons motor oil piques my interest.
My original premise is that you need to base viscosity recommendations on many of these changing parameters is still true. Oil is dynamic. It is not possible to make blanket statements.
Generally speaking, I look for viscosity stability rather than initial labelled viscosity grade. I prefer oil that does not thicken much on engine shut down. One of my greatest fears is damage from cavitation related to too much RPM for the viscosity during the early 20 or 30 minute start up period even here in Florida.
aehaas
PS- ‘Quality flack jacket donned, actually never doffed on this site.
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Its good to see Redline make the 10w60 grade for BMW, I wish they would just get it approved.
Red Line is a boutique formulator that chooses not to submit their oils to anyone for approval.
As A_Harman pointed out, RL recommends their VII free HTHSV 3.8cP 5w30 in place of the TWS 10W-60 for M series BMWs and not their own 10W-60. RL made the grade available because it's "popular" but it's not actually recommended by them. And with a HTHSV of 6.7cP it is indeed a extremely heavy oil; much more so than the 5.4cP TWS 10W-60, an oil that is know to shear as much as 25% in service. Even RL's 5W-50 (HTHSV 5.9cP) is still way heavier than TWS 10W-60.
If I had an M series BMW for which TWS 10W-60 was spec'd that's the only 10W-60 I would consider using. It's the oil that's important not the grade on the bottle. In reality this oil has the viscosity closer to that of a heavy 40wt oil in service. Way too much is made of the grade on the bottle.
I quoted this from another thread. It brings to mind the most common problem on oil forums - the label on the can (as I see it).
All day long people say to use the oil grade recommend in the owners manual. They answer the question as to the problems associated with using a grade below what is the OEM recommendation.
Never do these people take into account the actual, real viscosity of the oil when poured out of the can nor the viscosity after 500-1,000 miles of use. Many oils thin considerably in this period.
Then there is the engine related changes that occur as thinning from fuel dilution and shear forces.
Let’s next look at HTHS viscosity and the effects of shear and of fuel dilution. In the end the viscosity is most often radically different than what is advertised on that oil can label. So why do people most often refer to the label when only an oil analysis can tell what oil viscosity is being run in that engine?
My opinion is that most advice given here is misguided when trying to be specific with regards to viscosity. They assume the viscosity is stable. It is dependent on so many things. Many (some) oils resist viscosity changes by fuel dilution. Better VII compounds resist early breakdown and thinning. Other oils maintain original viscosities and may be higher or lower from the onset. One needs to be very, very specific about recommendations.
Is the viscosity actually that important? Should we be concerned about other criteria? There are so many within the realm of motor oil. This is one of the reasons motor oil piques my interest.
My original premise is that you need to base viscosity recommendations on many of these changing parameters is still true. Oil is dynamic. It is not possible to make blanket statements.
Generally speaking, I look for viscosity stability rather than initial labelled viscosity grade. I prefer oil that does not thicken much on engine shut down. One of my greatest fears is damage from cavitation related to too much RPM for the viscosity during the early 20 or 30 minute start up period even here in Florida.
aehaas
PS- ‘Quality flack jacket donned, actually never doffed on this site.