What do you do if you dont know your oil pressure?

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: TFB1



Ford did not start using the idiot gauge till '89 or '90(I know the '90 had them), '88-earlier Stangs, Turbo Coupes, Aerostar, etc had real gauges, at least the 15+ I owned did...

I don't know what to say, I had two different 87 GTs and in both cases the oil pressure gauge did not move at all other than when you first started the engine and it found "it's spot" After that it stayed there and did not go up and down with rpm or when the engine warmed up. I had a LOT of close friends with 5.0s back in the 90s and I don't know any of them who had a working oil pressure gauge. Maybe the Canadian cars all got the "idiot light" one?


Mine was Canadian... Maybe it was gifted? LOL!

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL




Mine was Canadian... Maybe it was gifted? LOL!

Ford was odd when it came to some of the parts that go in their cars though. For instance, when I changed the heater core in my second 87GT, the parts counter guy even told me that there was a good chance that the "non AC" heater core he sold me might not be the right one for my "non AC" Mustang. Turns out he was right! My non AC Mustang needed the heater core for an AC equipped car. Go figure.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL




Mine was Canadian... Maybe it was gifted? LOL!

Ford was odd when it came to some of the parts that go in their cars though. For instance, when I changed the heater core in my second 87GT, the parts counter guy even told me that there was a good chance that the "non AC" heater core he sold me might not be the right one for my "non AC" Mustang. Turns out he was right! My non AC Mustang needed the heater core for an AC equipped car. Go figure.


BAH HAHAHAHHAHA! Mine took the regular heater core. It EXPLODED when I went WOT in 2nd one day. Pretty dramatic failure actually. None went inside the car surprisingly, but was flowing out the heater box drain like a river.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


BAH HAHAHAHHAHA! Mine took the regular heater core. It EXPLODED when I went WOT in 2nd one day. Pretty dramatic failure actually. None went inside the car surprisingly, but was flowing out the heater box drain like a river.


I caught mine before it got that bad, but man that repair job was a bear! It took me and my friends about 7 or 8 hours! (some of that time was driving back to the Ford dealer though, haha!) If only my car had been an 86 model, it would've been a piece of cake, then I would have only needed to remove the glove box door instead of the entire dashboard and console!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


BAH HAHAHAHHAHA! Mine took the regular heater core. It EXPLODED when I went WOT in 2nd one day. Pretty dramatic failure actually. None went inside the car surprisingly, but was flowing out the heater box drain like a river.


I caught mine before it got that bad, but man that repair job was a bear! It took me and my friends about 7 or 8 hours! (some of that time was driving back to the Ford dealer though, haha!) If only my car had been an 86 model, it would've been a piece of cake, then I would have only needed to remove the glove box door instead of the entire dashboard and console!


You poor, poor soul. You took the hard way. The swap took me about 45 minutes?

I undid the main dash support bolt on the right pillar, removed the glove box and the heater box retaining nuts under the hood.

Pulled out the dash frame to gain some space (possible with that bolt removed) and then pulled at the heater box to get the studs that protrude into the engine bay inside the car. Once that is done, the whole box drops down a few inches with some coaxing. The frame doesn't move out much.... But it moves out enough to allow this to happen.

Reaching through the glove box opening.... swearing a bit, and with a lot of patience, you can use a 1/4" stubby ratchet to take the four bolts out and remove the cover. You then pull the core out through the glove box opening (not fun) and then reverse to install the new one.

MUCH faster way of doing it, but you have to do a bit of contorting and be patient and careful so you don't drop your ratchet.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL




You poor, poor soul. You took the hard way. The swap took me about 45 minutes?

I undid the main dash support bolt on the right pillar, removed the glove box and the heater box retaining nuts under the hood.

Pulled out the dash frame to gain some space (possible with that bolt removed) and then pulled at the heater box to get the studs that protrude into the engine bay inside the car. Once that is done, the whole box drops down a few inches with some coaxing. The frame doesn't move out much.... But it moves out enough to allow this to happen.

Reaching through the glove box opening.... swearing a bit, and with a lot of patience, you can use a 1/4" stubby ratchet to take the four bolts out and remove the cover. You then pull the core out through the glove box opening (not fun) and then reverse to install the new one.

MUCH faster way of doing it, but you have to do a bit of contorting and be patient and careful so you don't drop your ratchet.


Wished we had known this back in 92 (or 93?) when we did this swap!

 

[OVERKILL]

Well, when I was told I had to remove the dash to do it, I was like "not a chance in [censored]!!!" and then went about trying to do it without doing that. And I did

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Patman
I had a LOT of close friends with 5.0s back in the 90s and I don't know any of them who had a working oil pressure gauge. Maybe the Canadian cars all got the "idiot light" one?


All the Town Cars and CVPIs in taxi service at the time had the idiot light gauges, too. Even my 1999.5 Lightning had the idiot light gauge. My 1990 Town Car only had a real idiot light, since it had the digital dash.

 

[hooligan24]

Quote:
What do you do if you dont know your oil pressure?


Me personally, I wouldnt experiment. I would stick to what the owners manual states as a minimum