What brand of 10w30 should I use in classic car

[OVERKILL]

And on top of what you guys have mentioned thus far, it sounds like this engine has the original cam, and would subsequently have extremely light springs too. Most of the "low ZDDP cam failures" were with aftermarket camshafts, likely cast in China. We ran GTX, VWB and Mobil 1 in our antique boats. There wasn't a roller lifter in the lot. These are engines that in some of the boats, dated back to the 1930's. The 425HP Ford 312 saw Mobil 1 5w-30, the rest of them just saw whatever 10w-30 was on sale, as my grandfather bought oil by the skid.

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
The reason for higher ZDDP levels in the past was it was cheap and it was a suitable antioxidant in the long term too much ZDDP causes wear to increase.

ZDDP was cheap and very effective against high pressure metal to metal contact such as flat tappet liters. None of the substitutes offer the same level of protection.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: electrolover
Because it was spec'd for an oil with higher ZDDP levels and hdeo is the closest match.

Not any more now that we have a PCMO specifically blended for older cars.


Sure there are lots of options, but rotella works well. I have used it in many old engines. And the cleaning ability is a plus as well. Rotella works and its cheap. Plain and simple.

The only other thing I would rec for the car would be VR1.

I have been down this road a few times and lost a couple cams. I learned the hard way.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
And on top of what you guys have mentioned thus far, it sounds like this engine has the original cam, and would subsequently have extremely light springs too. Most of the "low ZDDP cam failures" were with aftermarket camshafts, likely cast in China. We ran GTX, VWB and Mobil 1 in our antique boats. There wasn't a roller lifter in the lot. These are engines that in some of the boats, dated back to the 1930's. The 425HP Ford 312 saw Mobil 1 5w-30, the rest of them just saw whatever 10w-30 was on sale, as my grandfather bought oil by the skid.


This is true. If its stock cam and springs it will probably be fine with an SN oil. But there have been a couple cars I have seen show extensive wear when running new oils. Im not talking about the cam going flat in a couple hours, like a solid flat tappet would, but the cams were wore pretty bad after a couple years with normal oil.
It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen.

 

[Garak]

With a lot of small blocks, that happened quite regularly in the SJ days and earlier, too.

 

[84zmyfavorite]

Of course AMSOIL Wants You to think using a Synthetic is fine for Your engine. 15,000 25,000 even 35,000 mile Oil Change Intervals they say are fine for your engine. Well some engines. Yours would be classified as Severe Service, which tops out at 15,000 mile OCI. Yah know, Quaker State Defy 10w-30 or 10w-40, depending on engine condition, does sound good.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
Of course AMSOIL Wants You to think using a Synthetic is fine for Your engine. 15,000 25,000 even 35,000 mile Oil Change Intervals they say are fine for your engine. Well some engines. Yours would be classified as Severe Service, which tops out at 15,000 mile OCI.


No it would not be.

Originally Posted By: Amsoil
SERVICE LIFE
Because engines in classic cars, hot rods and other performance vehicles are generally modified, a universal oil drain interval recommendation for these applications cannot be given.


Amsoil Z-ROD 10W-30

Thanks for posting incorrect advice.

Nothing wrong with Amsoil in this engine, but if yours has leaks maybe go with a lower cost oil until you swap in new seals.

 

[chainblu]

Even though it's a 400,it's pretty tame with that 2 bbl and a mild cam that was broken in 46 years ago. I sure Defy would be more than enough protection.

 

[Bamaro]

Defy

 

[A_Harman]

1. Valvoline VR1 10w30 you can get at your local NAPA, but they may have to order a case for you. It has 1300 ppm of zddp.

2. Rotella T5 10w30 semi-synthetic would also be good, but may be harder to find.

3. Brad Penn 10w30 has the most zddp (1400 ppm), but is not as available as the other two.

 

[Clevy]

Rotella makes a conventional 10w-30. There ya go. Cheap,easy to find and lots of anti-wear with a good splash of cleaning.

 

[nitehawk55]

OP said he has always been using a mineral oil since it was new . Mineral oils are non detergent so I would have some concern as to what is laying in the bottom of the oil pan waiting to be stirred up .

I had a 1954 Pontiac with the flathead inline 6 that had always used mineral oil and it only had around 30K miles on it . I decided to pull the oil pan before switching to a modern multi grade oil . I'll say I was really glad I did this , the pan was full of sludge .

OP , if this is the case with you using mineral oil and the fact you do have the rear main seal leaking why not pull the pan , change out the seal and clean things up .

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
OP said he has always been using a mineral oil since it was new . Mineral oils are non detergent so I would have some concern as to what is laying in the bottom of the oil pan waiting to be stirred up .

I had a 1954 Pontiac with the flathead inline 6 that had always used mineral oil and it only had around 30K miles on it . I decided to pull the oil pan before switching to a modern multi grade oil . I'll say I was really glad I did this , the pan was full of sludge .

OP , if this is the case with you using mineral oil and the fact you do have the rear main seal leaking why not pull the pan , change out the seal and clean things up .


A mineral oil is a conventional oil. You are thinking of an ND (non-detergent) oil. Those are different things.

 

[Thax]

I think the answer to the OP's question is rather simple , QS Defy 10w-30 if he does not want to run a full Syn boutique oil or Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30. I dont agree with many responders saying to run a HDEO in a gas engine. Rotella and other HDEO are great oils but I think there are better options out there now for a antique gas motor now. Quaker State and Amsoil both have very good products tailored to the application , I say why not use them?

 

[A_Harman]

Quaker State Defy is low in zddp compared to other oils we are discussing here. It's more like an SL level of Phosphorous in comparison to VR1 conventional, which is an SH level of Phos.

 

[Thax]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Quaker State Defy is low in zddp compared to other oils we are discussing here. It's more like an SL level of Phosphorous in comparison to VR1 conventional, which is an SH level of Phos.


Defy's level of zddp is fine for a stock 400ci 2bbl engine . Super high levels of zddp are not needed unless a motor has very high valve spring pressures and a aggresive camshaft profile. VR1 is intended for built ,high performance engines. The amount of zddp required to protect flat tappet cams is not as high as most people believe. QS Defy also has a decent amount of Moly in it as well , which many oils high in zddp lack . Defy's zddp levels with its shot of Moly is a very effective wear fighter.

 

[TFB1]

In case no one's noticed, the OP bailed after his second post...

No doubt more confused than when he joined...

 

[wtd]

I run a 10W-40 in the 396 BB in my 70 Monte Carlo. This engine was rebuilt back in 1997 and probably only has about 12,000 miles on it since. I tried running a 10W-30 at first but the engine seemed noisy and the oil pressure was lower than I liked. With 10W-40, the engine seems to like it better.

Back in 1987 when I first bought the car and it was running it's original 400 SB, I used 10W-40 in it with no issues. I currently have Valvoline 10W-40 with a ZDDP additive in it but will put in some 10W-40 PYB that I picked up cheap. I will probably run a ZDDP additive in it also.

Wayne

 

[bds1984]

Originally Posted By: Doog
Brad Penn


Yes! Plus it is green!

 

[84zmyfavorite]

Hilarious,.redgoat where did You go?