What are your winter oil plans?

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Early November I'll drain, and refill with Synthetic 5w30 in both the Blazer and Ranger. Rebate PP for the Blazer, M1 for the Ranger. Going with 12 month OCI's now, barely reach 5K in either vehicle after 12 months..
 
Originally Posted By: tuckman

The Toyota truck will get Co-Op D-MO Gold 0w-40 from now on


Do you know if anyone has posted a UOA (or even a VOA) of the Co-Op 0W30/40? It looks like very interesting oil. You westerners are lucky as one cant get it east of Manitoba
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Originally Posted By: hardcore302

Question. Why does it always seems colder in the car than outiside when you first get in? lol.


cuz it is
it works the same way as it does in the summer. you go to get in your car on a 90 degree day and it is clearly over 100 degress inside your car
leaving your windows cracked will help with evening out the temperature
 
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Originally Posted By: 21Rouge


Craig, do you know that one can easily order XD 0W30 from any Home Hardware? That is how I get my supply now. Very convenient.


I had read that here, yes. It seems, however, I live in the only golden horseshoe community that didn't get a HH store
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It's probably a 30min drive to my closest one. It's not worth it for oil (egads! did I say that on BITOG?) when GC is at about 5 stores within
Thanks for the tip, though. I'll check and make sure they didn't sneak a HH into my area.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Changing oil weights is something we did in the 60s and 70s. There is no need to do that now. Use the weight your engine calls for year round.


This is generally good advice - I ended up unintentionally running winter/summer oil. I always ran the same oil year round (M1 0W40, then GC) but starting using 15W40 HDEO several summers ago for an ARX treatment. My car really likes 15W40, and so does my wallet. A couple of summers later I ran dino HDEO again because I knew I was doing a variable valve timing gear job mid-summer and expected to lose a bunch of oil - why should it be $10/L GC instead of $16/gal HDEO?

This summer I elected to run Rotella-T 15W40 because, again, I like the engine character on HDEO (noticeably smoother above 3500rpm than GC, no downside in power or fuel economy) and I'm looking for places to save some $$ and the price couldn't be beat. I bought a 5gal pail to do one change for me and two for my dad who's doing an ARX round this summer for $60 or so. I did my 7L OC for what 2L of GC would have cost me and the HDEO is smoother to boot.

Based on the fact that my vehicle winters in an attached garage, isn't used for commuting, starts and ends in the garage (shopping, errands, dropping off the kids) and likes a 40 a little bit better, I'm on the hunt for T6 as a new year-round oil so long as it's as smooth and quiet as its 15W40 cousin. I'd run 15W40 HDEO year round if I lived in a warmer climate. Perhaps if anything I may alternate between Rotella T6 and 15W40 to save some $$ in the summer.
 
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Originally Posted By: gfh77665
What is winter?
Is that when it's below 100* F>?? Mobil AFE 0W30 in the wife's Scion xB, various HDEOs in the diesels, except the PSD 6.0 which gets 5W40 syn.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
What is winter?
Is that when it's below 100* F>??


IMHO, this fictional "winter" people refer to is like Santa Clause. I won't believe it unless I ever see it.
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Yeah, all these people from Texas sharing their "winter" oil plans is really ground breaking discussion....
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I'm surprised we haven't seen one of them say "I don't change my oil, but I start idling the car for 20 minutes before leaving when the mercury plunges below 50F"
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Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Yeah, all these people from Texas sharing their "winter" oil plans is really ground breaking discussion....
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I'm surprised we haven't seen one of them say "I don't change my oil, but I start idling the car for 20 minutes before leaving when the mercury plunges below 50F"
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I will be using the same thing as now for all the cars in my signature. I see no need to change to anything else from 5w30 dino or syn.

The Protogay may or may not recieve a Purolator instead of what I got a work. We'll see......
 
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: tuckman

The Toyota truck will get Co-Op D-MO Gold 0w-40 from now on


Do you know if anyone has posted a UOA (or even a VOA) of the Co-Op 0W30/40? It looks like very interesting oil. You westerners are lucky as one cant get it east of Manitoba
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It was at least a year ago that there was a few good threads on the D-MO Gold but I think there were only specs from the pds ever given. I would have to go back and see if I posted in any of the threads.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Most likely the same dino 5W-30 I'm using now.


And knowing you it might actually be the EXACT same used oil! So how long is this current (very?) lengthy OCI?
 
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Got some PP 5w30 on sale so I'm making the jump to synthetic! If I can get more that will definately be in for the winter. Even without a sale there's a good chance that it will. Still have an interest in trying the Petro-Canada products though.

addy, is that 12.5k kilometers or miles?
 
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