That's pretty £ugly but I'm sure it's plenty strong. Stick welding 3mm is kinda brave as that's relatively thin for the process.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I just slapped a new starter on the old Chevy Express, since the old one was starting to get flaky. I would have probably rebuilt it if I had the parts, but it has to be back in service at 5 AM tomorrow. Battery and cables looked sharp so I’m sure that was it. It was pretty rough inside when I popped it open.
Of course while I was under there I noticed a small trail of coolant on the oil pan. Looks like the stupid NAPA water pump I put in a couple years ago is starting to leak from the weep hole. I’ve got an AC Delco on the way, hopefully it holds up better than the NAPA. I gotta say, the NAPA unit was terrible looking with some of the worst casting I’ve ever seen, but I needed it right now! so it went in anyway.
Of course while I was under there I noticed a small trail of coolant on the oil pan. Looks like the stupid NAPA water pump I put in a couple years ago is starting to leak from the weep hole. I’ve got an AC Delco on the way, hopefully it holds up better than the NAPA. I gotta say, the NAPA unit was terrible looking with some of the worst casting I’ve ever seen, but I needed it right now! so it went in anyway.
Neighbor that usually works on 
commissioned me to look at the car
It's a '23 CX-30, with the 2.5 NA/24k on it
Factory cabin filter
He smokes, that probably didn't help either
Some dark bulk nonsense and a jobber filter, plus the smushed OG crush washer came off
Wix 57002 and some Castrol Edge EP 0w20 went in
Check engine light was on, as were a few other dash emojis
I believe these stickers represent OCI #1 & 2, me being #3
I'm sorry, but that's just not enough IMO
My immortal statement rings true yet again
"Thank God it's a lease"
And these new cars keep receipts, they aren't afraid to snitch
Once he got the oil level low message, he stopped driving it
Definitely drove better after an OCI, and the A/C no longer feels like an asthmatic breathing through a straw
I fixed the oil level, that P2610 can be set by a poor start/weak crank (due to the bad battery)
It needs a battery badly, it just barely fires up
And there's a TSB/software update for the "In Vehicle Network Malfunction"
Because working on cars now is just a series of software updates
If he still has it, it'll be back in 6m/5k, that's my default interval
If he doesn't, then it'll make a fine off lease Mazda CPO used vehicle in the tri state area
/s
commissioned me to look at the car It's a '23 CX-30, with the 2.5 NA/24k on it
Factory cabin filter
He smokes, that probably didn't help either
Some dark bulk nonsense and a jobber filter, plus the smushed OG crush washer came off
Wix 57002 and some Castrol Edge EP 0w20 went in
Check engine light was on, as were a few other dash emojis
I believe these stickers represent OCI #1 & 2, me being #3
I'm sorry, but that's just not enough IMO
My immortal statement rings true yet again
"Thank God it's a lease"
And these new cars keep receipts, they aren't afraid to snitch
Once he got the oil level low message, he stopped driving it
Definitely drove better after an OCI, and the A/C no longer feels like an asthmatic breathing through a straw
I fixed the oil level, that P2610 can be set by a poor start/weak crank (due to the bad battery)
It needs a battery badly, it just barely fires up
And there's a TSB/software update for the "In Vehicle Network Malfunction"
Because working on cars now is just a series of software updates
If he still has it, it'll be back in 6m/5k, that's my default interval
If he doesn't, then it'll make a fine off lease Mazda CPO used vehicle in the tri state area
/s
Unless it's GM Genuine, no, it won't. Sorry. "Life is pain, highness"
Rear pads and rotors on the '11 Avalon
Bosch Quietcast pad/rotor combo, and a mild brake fluid flush
The old pads had one or two shop shorts left in them
Drum in hat parking brake adjustment is always fun
Previous tire shop screwed up the lug nuts royally
I got them on and torqued, it'll be next times problem
Bosch Quietcast pad/rotor combo, and a mild brake fluid flush
The old pads had one or two shop shorts left in them
Drum in hat parking brake adjustment is always fun
Previous tire shop screwed up the lug nuts royally
I got them on and torqued, it'll be next times problem
2018 Ford Escape, blower motor only works for about 20 seconds and then dies out. Waiting on the OEM resistor to come in, already have the OEM blower replacement. Probably the worst procedure I have ever had to do, 3 blind fasteners holding the duct assembly in extremely difficult to reach areas, a nonsensical bracket with access only after bending it. The several complaints are well justified. Should finish things up later this week.
Mocking things up and discovering the oil supply line to the top of the turbo is too short. SMH. Part number for the Golf R supply line is one letter off a D instead of the GTI B. Here I always thought letter changes at the end were for revisions of a previous part not a different one. Know better now.
Neighbor that usually works on
It's a '23 CX-30, with the 2.5 NA/24k on it
Factory cabin filter
He smokes, that probably didn't help either
View attachment 345448
Some dark bulk nonsense and a jobber filter, plus the smushed OG crush washer came off
Wix 57002 and some Castrol Edge EP 0w20 went in
Check engine light was on, as were a few other dash emojis
I believe these stickers represent OCI #1 & 2, me being #3
I'm sorry, but that's just not enough IMO
My immortal statement rings true yet again
"Thank God it's a lease"
View attachment 345449
And these new cars keep receipts, they aren't afraid to snitch
Once he got the oil level low message, he stopped driving it
View attachment 345450
Definitely drove better after an OCI, and the A/C no longer feels like an asthmatic breathing through a straw
I fixed the oil level, that P2610 can be set by a poor start/weak crank (due to the bad battery)
It needs a battery badly, it just barely fires up
And there's a TSB/software update for the "In Vehicle Network Malfunction"
Because working on cars now is just a series of software updates
If he still has it, it'll be back in 6m/5k, that's my default interval
If he doesn't, then it'll make a fine off lease Mazda CPO used vehicle in the tri state area
/s
Some people sure are hard on stuff! What did he clean that cluster with, a Brillo pad?
2007 Ram 1500 5.7 with 250k mi
-engine oil change
-serviced the 545RFE. The pan was siliconed on which made me think it might be factory. The date on the spin-on filter confirmed it:
Did another patented drain plug with castle nut:
-replaced right rear caliper and hose. Many know Ram decided that making the rubber hose and hardline one was a good idea. Fortunately the aftermarket provides a threaded union with new hardline (terrible fit) and hose:
-engine oil change
-serviced the 545RFE. The pan was siliconed on which made me think it might be factory. The date on the spin-on filter confirmed it:
Did another patented drain plug with castle nut:
-replaced right rear caliper and hose. Many know Ram decided that making the rubber hose and hardline one was a good idea. Fortunately the aftermarket provides a threaded union with new hardline (terrible fit) and hose:
Mowed about 10 more acres of hay this morning. I have about 70 down so far. Just waiting on it to dry enough to start baling.
Rebuilding a few hubs on my rake right now. Someone had been into these hubs before and put standard lip seals in them which would have been fine had they installed them lip-out so grease could purge. Instead they were installed lip-in so when you grease the hubs it pops the grease cap off. Additionally it had a water intrusion issue because the seals face up when the rake is in the transport or storage position.
Out with the old bearings and in with new ones along with the correct style seals. Everything is done up with Schaeffer 219.
Rebuilding a few hubs on my rake right now. Someone had been into these hubs before and put standard lip seals in them which would have been fine had they installed them lip-out so grease could purge. Instead they were installed lip-in so when you grease the hubs it pops the grease cap off. Additionally it had a water intrusion issue because the seals face up when the rake is in the transport or storage position.
Out with the old bearings and in with new ones along with the correct style seals. Everything is done up with Schaeffer 219.
Replaced lower oil cooler fitting due to leaking
Started it up and it didn’t leak! But the upper line started leaking a full stream at the plastic line holder on the shroud! Corrosion is a thing in the salt states. Must have knocked natures bandaid off from moving the lines a little bit. New lines coming tomorrow from GM. Of course it’s hot and humid out.
At least it didn’t let loose while pulling my camper yesterday.
Started it up and it didn’t leak! But the upper line started leaking a full stream at the plastic line holder on the shroud! Corrosion is a thing in the salt states. Must have knocked natures bandaid off from moving the lines a little bit. New lines coming tomorrow from GM. Of course it’s hot and humid out.
At least it didn’t let loose while pulling my camper yesterday.
To add to the above
It took me 2 hours to get the lines off and out laying on my back in my garage. Having to crawl out numerous times for tools. The way it was routed was not cool at all snaking through wiring harnesses. A couple spots were a definite WT- moments and what were they thinking. I spent an hour just pulling the lines out.
Moral of the story is don’t complain about shop rates on a job like this. If I could have got in for a repair previously it was a max $700 job. I’d pay it not to have to do this in my garage on my back. This particular shop is down a mechanic and out until end of August.
It took me 2 hours to get the lines off and out laying on my back in my garage. Having to crawl out numerous times for tools. The way it was routed was not cool at all snaking through wiring harnesses. A couple spots were a definite WT- moments and what were they thinking. I spent an hour just pulling the lines out.
Moral of the story is don’t complain about shop rates on a job like this. If I could have got in for a repair previously it was a max $700 job. I’d pay it not to have to do this in my garage on my back. This particular shop is down a mechanic and out until end of August.
On Monday my fiancé's stepdad brings over their 2021 Subaru Forester because the CEL was on and the display said that the Eyesight system was disabled and there were some other lights on in the cluster.
I hook the scanner up and there are a bunch of codes in it but most of them were history codes. I clear the codes and re-scan to see what comes back and only two come back. One is in the ECM as a pending code for an Engine coolant bypass valve circuit code. The other one was in the Eyesight module for an Abnormal ECM.
I also check the battery voltage because my scanner is only showing about 11.8 volts and they just drove the car 60 miles the day before. The battery is the original Subaru battery. I check the battery with the multimeter, and it reads 12.2 volts. with it running it's 14.2 so I know that the alternator is charging. I check the battery with my battery tester, and it said it was good but to recharge.
I do some research on the codes, and it says that the Eyesight codes can set because of a low battery, but it says if there are any other P codes to address them first. The Engine coolant bypass valve is basically an electronic thermostat and apparently these are a widespread problem on certain Subaru vehicles from 2019-2021 and that Subaru has given an extended warranty for that part. Apparently, they leak internally and mess with the electronics inside the valve. The extended warranty is 15 years or 150,000 miles from the vehicle Inservice date. This code will also disable the Eyesight system.
He called the dealer yesterday and they said to bring it in. They determined that this valve was failing and they replaced it under the extended warranty and had it fixed that same day. I had let the owner know about this extended warranty, so he already knew about it when he brought it in. This valve is under the intake and supposedly an expensive fix if you had to pay out of pocket for it. He said that there is no more CEL and the Eyesight message is gone along with the other lights that were on.
I hook the scanner up and there are a bunch of codes in it but most of them were history codes. I clear the codes and re-scan to see what comes back and only two come back. One is in the ECM as a pending code for an Engine coolant bypass valve circuit code. The other one was in the Eyesight module for an Abnormal ECM.
I also check the battery voltage because my scanner is only showing about 11.8 volts and they just drove the car 60 miles the day before. The battery is the original Subaru battery. I check the battery with the multimeter, and it reads 12.2 volts. with it running it's 14.2 so I know that the alternator is charging. I check the battery with my battery tester, and it said it was good but to recharge.
I do some research on the codes, and it says that the Eyesight codes can set because of a low battery, but it says if there are any other P codes to address them first. The Engine coolant bypass valve is basically an electronic thermostat and apparently these are a widespread problem on certain Subaru vehicles from 2019-2021 and that Subaru has given an extended warranty for that part. Apparently, they leak internally and mess with the electronics inside the valve. The extended warranty is 15 years or 150,000 miles from the vehicle Inservice date. This code will also disable the Eyesight system.
He called the dealer yesterday and they said to bring it in. They determined that this valve was failing and they replaced it under the extended warranty and had it fixed that same day. I had let the owner know about this extended warranty, so he already knew about it when he brought it in. This valve is under the intake and supposedly an expensive fix if you had to pay out of pocket for it. He said that there is no more CEL and the Eyesight message is gone along with the other lights that were on.
Will be changing the thermostat for my 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3. Noticed while on the road yesterday at highway speeds the temp gauge was fluctuating from the normal 210 degrees up to 220 degrees. In 9 years old owning this truck since new the temp gauge has always stayed at 210 degrees even if ambient temperatures are 20 degrees or 105 degrees. Kept doing this with ac on or off. Starting with replacing the thermostat and doing an overdue cooling system flush and fill. Looks like the RF inner fender has to be removed just to gain access to the radiator drain cock. That part sucks but addressing it now instead of a failure and overheating situation miles from home. My timing is great! Daytime temperatures here will be 100 degrees and more for the next 5 days!!
Ever compared the water temp PID to the gauge? You may find it doesn't reflect reality. Not debating if something has changed, merely saying 220 may not be 220
Neat fire call this morning. I had just delivered my 5th load of rock and was headed back to town when we were paged out to an “aircraft down”-that’s the information we had to operate on. I made a quick trip to the fire station in the dump truck and grabbed a truck. As it turned out a Black Hawk was experiencing some issues and made an emergency landing in a hay field. No injuries or damage. I left to go to another fire while they were doing a ground run but my understanding is that another Black Hawk brought parts and a maintenance crew and got it repaired and back in the air.
Our local air care helicopter is the only one I had been around in person but these are huge. It was a cool experience made better by no injuries or damage to anything.
Our local air care helicopter is the only one I had been around in person but these are huge. It was a cool experience made better by no injuries or damage to anything.