Maybe the only thing worse than a drunk and disorderly sister in law is a mean and sober mother in law?
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Shes a J Witness. Truth in your words!!!
Son to the clown cars Civic nearly crashed it (like said clown car) and decided then was the time to tell me the brakes are loud 
Mhm...
Yeah...
They were allegedly quiet till the grinding started
Ironic it was an outer pad (no AWI)
The inner pads on the Civic carry the AWI, except the last shop that put brakes on this thing put the AWI facing down, instead of up as the service manual states
I wonder if that's why they weren't audible in time
Bosch Quietcast pad & rotor kit got him right, along with a mild front fluid flush
I've been having good luck with Bosch Quietcast pad/rotor combos
Much better than Raybestos Element3 kits
It also got an OCI and a ATF spill and full
144k on it, that might've been factory ATF that came out
In went 2.5qts of Idemitsu H Plus
I really need to pull the display and resolder
Wound it all the way up to 11mph
He's been advised of the severe control arm bushing wear, that causes odd handling and erratic tire wear
I sent him a pair of the second cheapest tires, I give it a week tops
Mhm...
Yeah...
They were allegedly quiet till the grinding started
Ironic it was an outer pad (no AWI)
The inner pads on the Civic carry the AWI, except the last shop that put brakes on this thing put the AWI facing down, instead of up as the service manual states
I wonder if that's why they weren't audible in time
Bosch Quietcast pad & rotor kit got him right, along with a mild front fluid flush
I've been having good luck with Bosch Quietcast pad/rotor combos
Much better than Raybestos Element3 kits
It also got an OCI and a ATF spill and full
144k on it, that might've been factory ATF that came out
In went 2.5qts of Idemitsu H Plus
I really need to pull the display and resolder
Wound it all the way up to 11mph
He's been advised of the severe control arm bushing wear, that causes odd handling and erratic tire wear
I sent him a pair of the second cheapest tires, I give it a week tops
Did rear diff fluid in the RAV4 today. Noticed a leak of pink fluid from the front end. Did the ATF yesterday and thought uh oh. Luckily it was just a loose radiator cap that inadvertently loosened working on the serpentine belt on Friday. Took me 4 hours for the ATF and transfer case fluids. I found lost tools under the engine and I'm sore today. Good thing that I don't do car repairs for a living.
No start on '01 4R. This has been intermittent all year but finally STUCK to where I could diag.
The owner had banged on the starter to get it going. But once at my shop no amount of physical abuse would prompt a response with a helper holding the key in the START position.
I popped in a test relay and starter happily cranks. OK, not actually the starter.
The OEM purple cover had come unglued from the relay and I could watch the armature move in the relay as I stood at the a-pillar and turned the key, so not the ignition switch.
Swapped in a different relay = cranks. Swapped back to original relay = return to clicking relay but no crank.
Ok, just a relay that couldn't or wouldn't carry the load.
Presently have two of these on my property, soon to have the same owner (not me). The one on the right is the offender who took years off my life recently when it hydrolocked itself with fuel just by having the key on engine off!!!
The owner had banged on the starter to get it going. But once at my shop no amount of physical abuse would prompt a response with a helper holding the key in the START position.
I popped in a test relay and starter happily cranks. OK, not actually the starter.
The OEM purple cover had come unglued from the relay and I could watch the armature move in the relay as I stood at the a-pillar and turned the key, so not the ignition switch.
Swapped in a different relay = cranks. Swapped back to original relay = return to clicking relay but no crank.
Ok, just a relay that couldn't or wouldn't carry the load.
Presently have two of these on my property, soon to have the same owner (not me). The one on the right is the offender who took years off my life recently when it hydrolocked itself with fuel just by having the key on engine off!!!
Pad slapped the rear brakes on the Forester. The rears always wear out first on Subies at least going back to our old '09 Forester since the EBD puts the initial stopping load on the rears and the rears are used for stability control.
Really easy on a Subie since the parking brake is a little drum in the hat of the rotor so no need for anything more than a C-clamp to depress the caliper piston.
Really easy on a Subie since the parking brake is a little drum in the hat of the rotor so no need for anything more than a C-clamp to depress the caliper piston.
With project Volvo nearing completion, the final task on hand is to do a 4 corner brake job to cure a heavy pulsation from rusted rotors. I was able to get 3 of 4 wheels off with a lot of force and a breaker bar, but the right rear put up a massive fight. I ended up snapping my breaker bar at the head after putting a 3 foot pipe on it, without so much as nudging the lug bolt.
I drove the car down to the shop, figuring our 3/4 drive Earthquake would get the lugs loose in short order, but boy was I wrong... I ended up needing our 1" CP D-handle impact running 1/2" air hose and twice-reduced down to a 19mm 1/2" impact to get the freaking things off. Somehow none of the lug bolts broke, nor did any of them have any significant rust or corrosion build up, so I'll chalk the difficulty removing up to poor installation and many years between services.
I spent this afternoon pulling the rear brakes apart so I could inspect the parking brake shoes before putting in a RA order. Turns out it's got brand new ATE shoes installed, so pads/rotors it is. Those should be done just in time for next week's tire appointment, then it's time for photos and sale.
I drove the car down to the shop, figuring our 3/4 drive Earthquake would get the lugs loose in short order, but boy was I wrong... I ended up needing our 1" CP D-handle impact running 1/2" air hose and twice-reduced down to a 19mm 1/2" impact to get the freaking things off. Somehow none of the lug bolts broke, nor did any of them have any significant rust or corrosion build up, so I'll chalk the difficulty removing up to poor installation and many years between services.
I spent this afternoon pulling the rear brakes apart so I could inspect the parking brake shoes before putting in a RA order. Turns out it's got brand new ATE shoes installed, so pads/rotors it is. Those should be done just in time for next week's tire appointment, then it's time for photos and sale.
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Light day.. trimmed around the eldest fruit trees, trimmed off some of dead limbs and applied a fungicide to all but the apples. Cleaned up the rose bushes and then headed home. Cleaned up the banana trees when I got home. Not sure where the green thumb came from but the wife loves it, and going through big M and I’ll take the win. Alot of mechanicals repairs waiting.. probably next week.
Just got unloaded from a 6 hour trip to pick up a load of fescue seed for my former employer. Been dodging rain all day but we finally got it all inside the building and on a drying floor.
Chances are if you have ever bought fescue lawn seed that says anything besides Scott’s on it we processed it here or at one of the smaller divisions.
Had 47,680 pounds in the trailer.
Chances are if you have ever bought fescue lawn seed that says anything besides Scott’s on it we processed it here or at one of the smaller divisions.
Had 47,680 pounds in the trailer.
Replaced an alternator in '16 Ford Fusion 1.5 Ecoboost. These things ain't cheap, and this was the smallest at 150A. O'Reilly thinks they get $430 at the counter. Commercial cost $266. But indeed, even at RA they hover around $200 after shipping.
Someone tell Jim Farley Ford screwed up because by some miracle the alternator is easily accessed. Even stranger: after being replaced by me -- absent any special credentials from Ford -- the vehicle inexplicably has no additional safety concerns than it did before I touched it. Guess I got lucky.
Someone tell Jim Farley Ford screwed up because by some miracle the alternator is easily accessed. Even stranger: after being replaced by me -- absent any special credentials from Ford -- the vehicle inexplicably has no additional safety concerns than it did before I touched it. Guess I got lucky.
It was a Monday....All day long.
I got the PCM on the 2010 Dodge Charger reprogrammed after fighting with wiTECH for 3 hours. Speedometer now works.
wiTECH said it had the correct software in it, But flashing it fixed the problem.
Had a customer back into the Cornwell Tool truck.
2009 Chevy Tahoe......EVAP cannister came apart.....Charcoal pellet party!!!!!!
I got the PCM on the 2010 Dodge Charger reprogrammed after fighting with wiTECH for 3 hours. Speedometer now works.
wiTECH said it had the correct software in it, But flashing it fixed the problem.
Had a customer back into the Cornwell Tool truck.
2009 Chevy Tahoe......EVAP cannister came apart.....Charcoal pellet party!!!!!!
Back onto the LBZ Duramax....
My friend Art, owner of New Life Tree Company, called with a dead brush chipper. His crew was working 25 miles south in San Martin-Gilroy area. Ton of brush on the ground with a no start chipper... He told me a couple of guys tried fixing it when his back was turned. Oops.
So he brings it over; I have his step son Allen (great young man) talk me through what he knew. It was clear there was little/no voltage to the starter. 12.6v battery; 12.6v to hot side of switch but 23mv on the switched side. The switch was kinda beat before so I Amazoned one but hadn't installed it. You coul see the crack in the body of the switch. Put the new one on and it cranked but not enough. Under load the battery showed 7v. I had a jump pack; that helped but quickly depleted. The #6 cable from the switch to the starter was questionable at best. So they went home and will pick up a #4 36" cable. I think they have a spare battery. Should be good to go.
This is the chipper with that cool 4 cylinder Wisconsin industrial engine. Low speed high torque for the win!
@Trav @OVERKILL is the 4ga cable to the starter appropriate? The battery to switch cable appears to be 4ga. Thanks in advance!
So he brings it over; I have his step son Allen (great young man) talk me through what he knew. It was clear there was little/no voltage to the starter. 12.6v battery; 12.6v to hot side of switch but 23mv on the switched side. The switch was kinda beat before so I Amazoned one but hadn't installed it. You coul see the crack in the body of the switch. Put the new one on and it cranked but not enough. Under load the battery showed 7v. I had a jump pack; that helped but quickly depleted. The #6 cable from the switch to the starter was questionable at best. So they went home and will pick up a #4 36" cable. I think they have a spare battery. Should be good to go.
This is the chipper with that cool 4 cylinder Wisconsin industrial engine. Low speed high torque for the win!
@Trav @OVERKILL is the 4ga cable to the starter appropriate? The battery to switch cable appears to be 4ga. Thanks in advance!
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Just odds and sods for this simpleton. My wife is gearing up for an Arab horse show this weekend so.... the 6 horse came out from the winter slumber. Was cleaned, tires aired, bearings and jack greased and brakes seem to be working fine. The spare tire was found to have bad tread separation and was replaced with a Carlisle or Carlstar or whatever they are called now.
I made a treated lumber frame to mount heavy rubber stall mats to the outside wall. Seems to work well.
The 3500 is good to go, all fluids in check, aired up the tires for the heavier load. I floated around the 60/55 psi mark for front and rear this winter and spring. It never towed heavy so I opted for better ride. They are 65/70 now and will handle the approx 10k pound load fine.
I made a treated lumber frame to mount heavy rubber stall mats to the outside wall. Seems to work well.
The 3500 is good to go, all fluids in check, aired up the tires for the heavier load. I floated around the 60/55 psi mark for front and rear this winter and spring. It never towed heavy so I opted for better ride. They are 65/70 now and will handle the approx 10k pound load fine.
Friend dropped off his wife's 2023 Outlander for a broken off piece of door trim
That's it, remember this
I get in it, and catch my boat anchors for feet on something hanging from under the dash
Interesting
I look up under the dash, can't see where this goes, but I see my old friend, a tracker
Who's IMEI number aligns with the sticker on the door post
It was bought CPO from the local Mitsubishi dealer, but we suspect it began life as an Enterprise rental car
I don't know if they did this, or there was another intermediary owner
None of the paperwork from the dealer mentioned this, and there would be no reason
They bought it cash outright, no LoJack or equivalent add ons
So out it came
Looks like it simply picked up power/ground at the DLC
Dressed it back as stock as possible
As for that other (OBD2 Y adapter), that became clear after I pulled the lower dash apart
$300 worth of Start-X Amazon DIY 3x lock remote start kit, already installed and programmed
Just disconnected from the DLC
The salesman swore blind this car didn't have it, and it couldn't be added
He's right, only SEL and up comes with factory remote start
This might be another remnant of that intermediate owner
It tees in at the 40 PIN BCM connector, because this thing is a reskinned Nissan Rogue
Since I already had it apart, might as well program a spare key (they already lost 1 of 2)
Nissan hasn't made that any easier lately
You gotta pull the fuse box, and get to the BCM behind it
T harness into it
The Lonsdor K518 Pro was used, with the Nissan 40 PIN bypass cable
PIN calculations performed
That's it, remember this
I get in it, and catch my boat anchors for feet on something hanging from under the dash
Interesting
I look up under the dash, can't see where this goes, but I see my old friend, a tracker
Who's IMEI number aligns with the sticker on the door post
It was bought CPO from the local Mitsubishi dealer, but we suspect it began life as an Enterprise rental car
I don't know if they did this, or there was another intermediary owner
None of the paperwork from the dealer mentioned this, and there would be no reason
They bought it cash outright, no LoJack or equivalent add ons
So out it came
Looks like it simply picked up power/ground at the DLC
Dressed it back as stock as possible
As for that other (OBD2 Y adapter), that became clear after I pulled the lower dash apart
$300 worth of Start-X Amazon DIY 3x lock remote start kit, already installed and programmed
Just disconnected from the DLC
The salesman swore blind this car didn't have it, and it couldn't be added
He's right, only SEL and up comes with factory remote start
This might be another remnant of that intermediate owner
It tees in at the 40 PIN BCM connector, because this thing is a reskinned Nissan Rogue
Since I already had it apart, might as well program a spare key (they already lost 1 of 2)
Nissan hasn't made that any easier lately
You gotta pull the fuse box, and get to the BCM behind it
T harness into it
The Lonsdor K518 Pro was used, with the Nissan 40 PIN bypass cable
PIN calculations performed
And two minutes later, there was keys
Ran down the street, had the emergency blanks cut
Added key condoms to prevent expensive remote loss again
Dealer that sold them the thing wanted $650 for 1 new key
Put it all back together (better than the last guy?)
They broke so many clips
Swapped the CAF
Marvelled at the nearly bald 20" Uniroyals
Cleaned the cluster properly (I despise a dirty cluster)
And finally, replaced the broken door trim
Final code scan shows Mitsubishi (probably Nissan really) have added some type of security gateway that you bypass by doing something (newer VWs do similar)
They picked it up, loved the remote start, gave me the $100 or so, and it's out
It'll be back, they always come back....