What are you working on today?

[michaelluscher]

Co workers son got a different (take 3?) 2006 Ridgeline
Which lasted all of a month, before breaking down and overheating
'06 RTL with 144k, I believe I pulled the factory radiator
In the parking lot, of the job...

Due to corrosion and time/tool limitations, I bypassed/eliminated the radiator ATF warmer, only the aux external standalone cooler is in play
Luckily one of the hoses is the perfect length for the job, eliminating a time consuming parts run

And before anyone says that I've deprived this BJFA of temperature control, it was neglected before I got a hold of it
It's the least of this things problems

Buy a new cooler line assy if you plan on this job, if it's crusty
Denso Indonesian radiator was used
B/A (Tama Japan) thermostat and a meh Fel Pro (Japan) gasket

It holds temp and doesn't overheat, that was the objective
I might swap the cap for a Calorstat brand, we'll test them out
Also did some other minor nonsense
Keys, keyfobs, PCM reflash for a shift concern TSB, found out why the cruise control didn't work

It's gonna need my standard workup
CAF, OCI, I now preventatively replace all old Honda MAG CLUTCH relays because of the trauma I had of one sticking on and locking up the compressor
$5 for the peace of mind
Needs a door jamb switch, CHMSL bulbs, P/S pump o rings, the rear diff probably has the factory Dual Pump Fluid in it
It gets what they're willing to pay for
It's a premium beater ™

It'll do

 

[meep]

Co workers son got a different (take 3?) 2006 Ridgeline
Which lasted all of a month, before breaking down and overheating
'06 RTL with 144k, I believe I pulled the factory radiator
In the parking lot, of the job...

Due to corrosion and time/tool limitations, I bypassed/eliminated the radiator ATF warmer, only the aux external standalone cooler is in play
Luckily one of the hoses is the perfect length for the job, eliminating a time consuming parts run

And before anyone says that I've deprived this BJFA of temperature control, it was neglected before I got a hold of it
It's the least of this things problems

Buy a new cooler line assy if you plan on this job, if it's crusty
Denso Indonesian radiator was used
B/A (Tama Japan) thermostat and a meh Fel Pro (Japan) gasket

It holds temp and doesn't overheat, that was the objective
I might swap the cap for a Calorstat brand, we'll test them out
Also did some other minor nonsense
Keys, keyfobs, PCM reflash for a shift concern TSB, found out why the cruise control didn't work

It's gonna need my standard workup
CAF, OCI, I now preventatively replace all old Honda MAG CLUTCH relays because of the trauma I had of one sticking on and locking up the compressor
$5 for the peace of mind
Needs a door jamb switch, CHMSL bulbs, P/S pump o rings, the rear diff probably has the factory Dual Pump Fluid in it
It gets what they're willing to pay for
It's a premium beater ™

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It'll do

Thankfully the rear axles in these aren’t nearly as hard on the fluid as the dual pump design used in the CRVs. Those are the shortest life driveline fluid applications I’ve ever seen. We’ve owned both variants.

I still have a soft spot for these gen 1 ridgelines. I didn’t like them when they were current but the basic boxy shape and general robust build of the things is commendable. You can keep a good one on the road a long time. Lots of steel in them.

 

[wlk]

Enjoying my last night at the truck show in the truck. I had originally planned to drive the hour home and an hour back in the morning but I’m done with it today. I keep the bed made all the time so it wasn’t a big deal. Got the Yanmar powered Thermo King Tri-pac chugging away and it’s about 65 degrees in here with the air conditioner on.

For anyone curious this is the room you got in the sleeper of one of these old cabovers, and this is a longer sleeper than average. Many newer flat top(coffin) sleepers are still like this depending on how it was ordered. This is the best sleep I ever get with the Tri-pac running, way better than I ever do at home.
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I always sleep better at truck stops or rest stops when we travel with our camper. Same bed but at our campsites and not as good. I think it is the idling that masks my tenitus and puts me to sleep. Way better than at home too.

 

[wlk]

Power steering pressure hose on my '94 f350.
Washed and treated our camper roof, box is next, just uncovered it yesterday.

 

[D60]

Power steering pressure hose on my '94 f350.
Washed and treated our camper roof, box is next, just uncovered it yesterday.

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That C2 reservoir gives me nightmares. Needs Sag swap!!

 

[wlk]

That C2 reservoir gives me nightmares. Needs Sag swap!!

Haha, yeah I thought about it, it was noisy when I bought it but it is quiet as a church mouse with Lubegard Syn PS fluid in it. If the Lubegard hadn't helped it, I was going to swap it but until then she stays.

 

[CleanSump]

I always sleep better at truck stops or rest stops when we travel with our camper. Same bed but at our campsites and not as good. I think it is the idling that masks my tenitus and puts me to sleep. Way better than at home too.

Like being on a ship underway. There's always that slight almost imperceptible drone or thrumming that lulls you to sleep.

 

[D60]

2014 Ford Escape 2.0:
-new low pressure fuel sensor (notorious failure on these)
-new mess of EVAP hoses for the topside purge valve (notorious failure on these)

Standard builds it as 2-piece so just the valve could be replaced in the future I guess:

Dorman also makes a kit to splice one into the OEM hoses, but I try to avoid Dorman, esp for electric anything.

-new gasket on vacuum pump due to considerable oil leak (notorious failure on these)

-the intake manifold also had this (a junkyard swapped this engine in)

but @bdcardinal confirmed for me CB5Z9A450D is an OEM plug kit for that hole:

-new front struts; used Mando quick struts. This spreader tool is AWESOME for opening the knuckle!! Get one!

-engine oil change (not exciting)

 

[wlk]

Like being on a ship underway. There's always that slight almost imperceptible drone or thrumming that lulls you to sleep.

That is it!

 

[The Critic]

From a few weeks ago:

Some pro-bono work on the neighbor’s 2002 4Runner:

- Timing Belt Kit
- Replace Cam Seals
- Drive Belts
- Thermostat
- Radiator
- Radiator Cap
- Upper Radiator Hose w/new clamps
- Drain and Refill ATF twice.

Timing Belt was on time by mileage by way overdue by age. Timing belt had some dryrot and was out of time by 1/2 tooth. Lots of corrosion on the block and upper hose neck as well. I cleaned both as best as possible and reassembled without goop, so far no leaks. The outer coating of the driver bank cam seal also decided to peel a little after it was driven in 85% of the way, let’s hope that holds.

Also, I resealed the valve covers about 5 years ago using Stone gaskets. Every grommet looks like this:

At least the gaskets are not leaking yet. But Stone is using some real high quality rubber for the grommets.

 

[ripcord]

From a few weeks ago:

Some pro-bono work on the neighbor’s 2002 4Runner:

- Timing Belt Kit
- Replace Cam Seals
- Drive Belts
- Thermostat
- Radiator
- Radiator Cap
- Upper Radiator Hose w/new clamps
- Drain and Refill ATF twice.

Belt was on time by mileage by way overdue by age. Timing belt had some dryrot and was out of time by 1/2 tooth. Lots of corrosion on the block and upper hose neck as well. I cleaned both as best as possible and reassembled without goop, so far no leaks. The outer coating of the driver bank cam seal also decided to peel a little after it was driven in 85% of the way, let’s hope that holds.

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Some additional observations:

I resealed the valve covers 5 years using Stone gaskets. Every grommet looks like this:


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They’re using some real high quality rubber.

Won't you be my neighbor.

 

[The Critic]

Won't you be my neighbor.

His drive belts were screamin' at cold start-up. I took a peek under the hood and said your drive belts are properly adjusted but old and cracking. I then asked him when his last timing belt service was....and he said over a decade ago.

That's when I told him it was time to do the whole enchilada. I added in the radiator after seeing the sediment and the infamous discoloration on the neck.

My wife said I'd live an easier life if I just fixed what people ask for and keep my mouth shut.

 

[mattd]

Got the 6R140 road tested and back to the customer. I had to program the TCM back to OEM software, the aftermarket tune he had was terrible. It Shifts very well. It does have a very mild “bump” or harshness on downshift from 6-5, and 4-3, which is when direct clutch (3 5 R) is applied. I’m very confident that this is because of the omission of the wave cushion plate to dampen the hydraulic apply feel. This was done for clearance purposes so I didn’t have to take too much off the pressure plate and risk it breaking or bowing under pressure. It may smooth out over time as the TCM adapts, but may need a custom tune from a reputable company to make it more seamless on those 2 specific downshifts . Other than that, the transmission operates flawlessly, with an overall drop of 50-55 degrees of operating temperature after valve body modification (145*)