Worked on the 8n, pto lever was stuck and wouldn’t fully engage or disengage. Was stuck engaged when I got it but a little use loosened it up some. Pulled the shaft but doesn’t look twisted or bent which is the usual cause. Came right out and back in so not sure just doesn’t want to slide on it, put grease on it didn’t scrap it off like it was tight. Dunno but it’s working for now. Left my gasket maker at the house so seal it up next weekend.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Back in February I had looked at an '18 Silverado 1500 4x4 for an occasional front end clunk. It seemed to be RF, and would mostly happen in tight turns when hitting a bump or when transitioning off pavement in a RH turn.
It didn't really happen while actively turning the steering wheel ‐‐ more so once in a turn with the wheel static and then hitting bumps just right.
Unfortunately I was able to find nothing conclusive. Everything was tight incl all sway bar components.
Fast forward to May and the RF upper ball joint had noticeable play. I replaced that and the owner reports the clunk is resolved.
So if you have this era of Silverado with a mystery clunk, it may be early signs of UBJ failure
It didn't really happen while actively turning the steering wheel ‐‐ more so once in a turn with the wheel static and then hitting bumps just right.
Unfortunately I was able to find nothing conclusive. Everything was tight incl all sway bar components.
Fast forward to May and the RF upper ball joint had noticeable play. I replaced that and the owner reports the clunk is resolved.
So if you have this era of Silverado with a mystery clunk, it may be early signs of UBJ failure
Quoting myself, this was a Trakmotive and note above was April '25. Now in May '26 these boots are SOOOOOO close to splitting. They look like a lake bed that's been dry for a decade with huge, deep cracks. @The Critic
I don't know why I keep using Trakmotive? Truly, I'm an idiot!
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
Beautiful Area!
Dry air because of all that humidity you've got in California? Maybe.....
2016 KL Cherokee 3.2:
-engine oil change
-new coated front rotors and Bosch Quiet-Whatever pads
2006 Hummer H3 with 245k mi:
-engine oil change; used 10W40 and PF61E
Then upgraded a small trailer with new tongue jack, weld-on D rings and a ratchet strap hook as an additional tie-down. The closest I had in paint was Rustoleum Pro "Almond" (think tan eggshell) and it wasn't that close
-engine oil change
-new coated front rotors and Bosch Quiet-Whatever pads
2006 Hummer H3 with 245k mi:
-engine oil change; used 10W40 and PF61E
Then upgraded a small trailer with new tongue jack, weld-on D rings and a ratchet strap hook as an additional tie-down. The closest I had in paint was Rustoleum Pro "Almond" (think tan eggshell) and it wasn't that close
...7 months was all she could muster in the Fusion (10/25)
In a rare moment of Walmart clarity, they no charge swapped me and I was on my way
...with a battery ONE MONTH NEWER (11/25)
Because it's all they had
I let it fully charge before going into service
I also gave the iDataLink remote start a little reconfiguration, and a firmware update
And checked the dashcam, making sure it's ignition cycling as it should
I'll perform a proper parasitic drain test soon, I don't remember this car killing batteries
I pulled the valve cover to swap the weeping VCT seal, I didn't swap it when I did the VCG ~4 years ago
Note to self, always change that seal
I reused the VCG, let's see how long it takes for me to regret it
The Mahle seal fits well, a few dabs of super glue holds it into the valve cover firmly
Ultra black in the corners, torqued to exactly 89 in.lbf
Paused for an OCI on a 2011 Avalon
It got the Warren/Kirkland High Mileage 5w30 and a Toyota filter cartridge
Switched gears to dads work issued basket case 2010 Prius
Literally all 8 incandescent bulbs in the front of the vehicle were out
D/s low beam connector melted
All 3 wiper blades, a CAF, and a PCM reflash for extra credit
I take a belt and suspenders approach
Weatherproof crimp connectors (melt them) then slide over marine grade heat shrink (melt it)
Top with either 3M 33+ or Tesa tape
Ain't it so illuminating
H9 mod of course, they could also use a polish
wheezes asthmatically
Haven't had a CAF fail the sunlight test in quite some time
Apply TSB reflash of dubious value, because smoke em if you got em
The Opus IVS SuperGoose-Plus will earn it's keep around here
Replaced the belt mouldings on the Camry, only because I bagged a set of 4 for $30 delivered
Haven't had dew wipes since the late aughts
In a rare moment of Walmart clarity, they no charge swapped me and I was on my way
...with a battery ONE MONTH NEWER (11/25)
Because it's all they had
I let it fully charge before going into service
I also gave the iDataLink remote start a little reconfiguration, and a firmware update
And checked the dashcam, making sure it's ignition cycling as it should
I'll perform a proper parasitic drain test soon, I don't remember this car killing batteries
I pulled the valve cover to swap the weeping VCT seal, I didn't swap it when I did the VCG ~4 years ago
Note to self, always change that seal
I reused the VCG, let's see how long it takes for me to regret it
The Mahle seal fits well, a few dabs of super glue holds it into the valve cover firmly
Ultra black in the corners, torqued to exactly 89 in.lbf
Paused for an OCI on a 2011 Avalon
It got the Warren/Kirkland High Mileage 5w30 and a Toyota filter cartridge
Switched gears to dads work issued basket case 2010 Prius
Literally all 8 incandescent bulbs in the front of the vehicle were out
D/s low beam connector melted
All 3 wiper blades, a CAF, and a PCM reflash for extra credit
I take a belt and suspenders approach
Weatherproof crimp connectors (melt them) then slide over marine grade heat shrink (melt it)
Top with either 3M 33+ or Tesa tape
Ain't it so illuminating
H9 mod of course, they could also use a polish
wheezes asthmatically
Haven't had a CAF fail the sunlight test in quite some time
Apply TSB reflash of dubious value, because smoke em if you got em
The Opus IVS SuperGoose-Plus will earn it's keep around here
Replaced the belt mouldings on the Camry, only because I bagged a set of 4 for $30 delivered
Haven't had dew wipes since the late aughts
2010 Accord:
-finally found time to repair the rodent damage to the KS wire. I opted to try this aftermarket from Amazon. OEM Honda has also been upgraded with special "rodent resistant tape," but reviews indicate rodents still chew both the aftermarket pictured and the Honda OEM
The fuel injectors were quite stubborn. I finally resorted to progressively leveraging them out with a set of hose pliers. The shape and bend worked quite well.
This is where I love ginormous Q-tips: cleaning injector seats
I didn't have to touch the lower intake as I was able to use long pliers to slide the old connector off the KS
Anyway she runs well and no CEL, so I'll take it.
-finally found time to repair the rodent damage to the KS wire. I opted to try this aftermarket from Amazon. OEM Honda has also been upgraded with special "rodent resistant tape," but reviews indicate rodents still chew both the aftermarket pictured and the Honda OEM
The fuel injectors were quite stubborn. I finally resorted to progressively leveraging them out with a set of hose pliers. The shape and bend worked quite well.
This is where I love ginormous Q-tips: cleaning injector seats
I didn't have to touch the lower intake as I was able to use long pliers to slide the old connector off the KS
Anyway she runs well and no CEL, so I'll take it.
New plug time for our '06 Kia Spectra. Pulled these crusty looking IZFR5L-11's and installed a set of BKR5EGP's. I just couldn't stomach $10+ per plug to put iridium's back in, the $12 set of plat's will suit this engine just fine. I have no idea if the plugs I pulled were original, per Kia my CARB ULEV Beta should have come with IFR5G-11's from the factory. To make it even more confusing, RA says the correct plug is the IFR5E-11
After the plugs were situated, I pulled project Volvo in and started stripping it down. I picked up a new used front bumper this weekend for $100, and I've got a fender on the way from a yard a state over. The headlight is getting pulled today and should be ready for pickup tomorrow, they're even throwing in the headlight wiper arm I need.
Much as I suspected, there's zero structural damage to the car. There's also zero rust to be found anywhere, which is great up here in the Midwest. I'll be installing a new A/C discharge hose while it's all apart and I have access to the condenser, the old part was covered in oil and dye. Fingers crossed the compressor is in good shape... they aren't cheap.
Once the body work is done she's an alignment and detail away from being ready for sale. I'm hoping to get $3,500 out of it when all is said and done, which should be easy in today's market.
Swapped out the base steering wheel in my Son's Colorado with one from a higher trim Canyon. Programmed the Maestro module that adapts and aftermarket head unit to the vehicle to add steering wheel audio/phone controls. Mindset was that he will keep his hands on the wheel more and make driving safer for adjusting volume and changing songs, etc.
Dad and I cleaned around 25 family headstones - 3 cemeteries and two granite yard signs. Used around 60 gallons and one bottle of Awesome, took around 150 gallons. That stuff made the moss fall right off. Couldn’t read some of them before. Dads 75 and I’m 45 that mostly sets at a desk.. we we’re both beat! If I can find any energy might finish mowing.
Geartrain staked on the 4L60
I was taking inventory of some of the hoarded parts over the years, and came across a couple of Beck-Arnley PCV valves for the Highlander; easy 10 minute job.
I tried using the new torque adapters I recently purchased. The torque spec for the valve is 44 in-lb; it's plastic running into plastic. The adapter doesn't read that low. Just used the old school clicker.
I tried using the new torque adapters I recently purchased. The torque spec for the valve is 44 in-lb; it's plastic running into plastic. The adapter doesn't read that low. Just used the old school clicker.
Putting a you-pull-it Sync2 to Sync3 upgrade in my '15 F150 from a Focus donor. The install was easy. Spending a bit of time writing and debugging it with Forscan.
Spent the afternoon replacing spark plugs on our 21 Crosstrek Sport at 60278 miles. Thankfully, the boots and plugs were totally dry and did not have to worry about valve cover gaskets. Not the easiest job by any means but it is done. The original plugs came out in excellent condition.
I dropped my spare tire on my 2009 Honda Pilot. It’s a 17 inch skinny 80 psi temp spare. The road side of the rim was very rusty. I cleaned it up with a pressure washer, let it dry and hit it with Rustcheck rust convertor. After it fully reacted and dried I gave it two coasts of Tremclad black rust spray paint. After it dried I hoisted it back up underneath the floor.
Here are a few shots. For the most part the area where the tire sat is rust free. Removing the tire gave me a chance to spray Krown on the rusty rear suspension.
Also shown is that a 1/4 inch electric ratchet can turn the crank to lower and raise the cable suspending the tire. Just take it easy.
Here are a few shots. For the most part the area where the tire sat is rust free. Removing the tire gave me a chance to spray Krown on the rusty rear suspension.
Also shown is that a 1/4 inch electric ratchet can turn the crank to lower and raise the cable suspending the tire. Just take it easy.