What are you working on today?

Finally got time to solve the misfire.

I tried 3 different scanners, none showed mode 6 misfire counts. A friend loaned me some known good coils, swapped each one, no change. Finally bought new ngk platinum plugs and AC Delco wires, and the misfire is gone, she runs like a goat. I am happy. It was something on the passenger side, I was in a hurry from a thunderstorm and couldn’t determine which cylinder exactly.

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No need to use Mode 06/Generic OBD on GM vehicles, They have a fantastic misfire monitor through manufacturer scan data,
 
Just finished my first oil change on our new-to-us Rebadged Honda Minivan (Acura MDX)

Contender for the worst located oil filter in the history of cars. Can't get a filter socket on it with a ratchet (even when all the way on) so you have to use a wrench on the socket. Then it immediately pours out itself upon the subframe. Also these J35s take a ton of oil (5.7 quarts) for a gasoline car. Kirkland oil and PG6412EX filter.

The Oil Life Monitor (OLM) in the dash said the oil had 20% life left. There was 5906 miles on the oil. Seems like it wants me to change the oil in 7500 miles based on our usage, which is reasonable to me (we drive lots of short trips and don't accrue a lot of mileage)

Then I test fitted these wheels (the silver ones) which have some almost-new Vredestein Wintracs, which I bought for my X5 and used for the last two winters. It turns out the Acura uses the same BMW 5x120 and similar offset and diameter. They seem to fit fine even though they are 18" instead of the factory 20" wheels. If I end up using them I will have to get hubcentric rings and different lug nuts. (My Acura came with some studded tires on a second set of OEM wheels, but I hate studs - they chew up your driveway and garage floor!)

These Stupid Useless Vehicles have to have such huge tires, for god knows what reason. Even the 18"s were over a thousand bucks for this set of Vredesteins! The Acura tires are 245/40/20 which I imagine is quite a bit more. I would love to get by without having to buy more tires for a few years.
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You need a form-a-funnel or the oil filter deflector tool.
 
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Finished up the transmission swap in the basket case Ram ('05 1500 5.7 4x4)

Yep that's over 311k freedom:
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Transmissions 'n stuff everywhere:
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Beats bench pressing it
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I opted to leave the exhaust but the 241D barely makes it out
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Ram elects to bury two t-case bolts under the transmission xmember, so you almost need two jacks: one to support the transmission while the xmember is absent and one for the t-case
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I did another patented drain plug in the stock pan. Milled a slot so it can theoretically drain 100% and welded into the panView attachment 339315View attachment 339314

The local yard only wanted $289 for this 545RFE and -- at least for now -- it works fine. They sell 4L60s for about double that, so not sure why the Dodge transmission is so inexpensive. Supposed 90 day warranty but per paperwork they could probably weasel out since I'm not ASE certified. Hopefully don't need to find out.
The third and fifth photos (of your shop) are awesome.
 
FYI: I just ran the mower for the first time after the fluid change. The transmission was noticeably quieter (no more annoying whine) and the top speed was noticeably faster. Must be a fluid pressure thing? I don't know and I don't care. It ran great! Just my $0.02.

I had the same mower with about 80 hours on it. It was definitely noisy, especially before it warmed up. Was going to swap the fluid out this year, but I got a different mower instead :LOL:
 
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2015 CRV: engine oil change. My lift is tied up with the basket case Ram so I had to use my ramps like a peasant :cry:

On the bright side my ramps are super uber mega kool since I added dimple died bracing :cool:View attachment 339209

edit: I did not prefill the filter this time and man it sounds bad until it builds oil pressure. I know Freedomworx did some testing and prefilling didn't reduce any wear, but I prefer to prefill just for less psychological damage. I'll be hearing that angry sewing machine in my dreams (nightmares) tonight.....
Did you have that type of ramp fail - or just preventive upgrade?
 
Did you have that type of ramp fail - or just preventive upgrade?
Nah just preventive. I had to put a GMT400 2500 ECLB on them and it has a HUGE in-bed camper. Granted, the camper mostly adds weight to the rear but still.... Seems to me if those ramps are going to fail the legs will just try to spread apart like Bambi on ice.

I added the flat bar "in" on one and "out" on the other so they still mostly-sorta stack
 
Nah just preventive. I had to put a GMT400 2500 ECLB on them and it has a HUGE in-bed camper. Granted, the camper mostly adds weight to the rear but still.... Seems to me if those ramps are going to fail the legs will just try to spread apart like Bambi on ice.

I added the flat bar "in" on one and "out" on the other so they still mostly-sorta stack
Yeah, seems it would help prevent sliding as well …
 
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5 hour break in oil change on the zero turn. Was a lot nastier than I thought it would be!

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I was afraid the filter was gonna drop onto the PTO, but it appears it's just far enough away.

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Another thing that annoyed me was they didn't wipe the grease fittings on the PDI. Course it collected junk.

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Shot some of my own grease in there and wiped it like you should.

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All set till fall!
 
Oil and filter change on the Highlander. My first time working under the hood, so in true Toyota fashion, I had a pile of tools out when I was finished.

Out:
  • OEM oil filter element
  • GTMO 0W-20 (OCI 5,546 mi)
In:
  • Denso 150-3021 oil filter element (odd that Denso no longer shows this filter by application or part number).
  • Idemitsu IFG-3, 0W-20 (6qt)
I tried replacing the cabin filter, but the Denso 454-5057 woudn't fit into the filter frame. "First Time Fit"....sure, what ever you say.

Edit: There's a clip attached to the oil filter housing. What is it's function? No reference in the FSM. P/N 15679-31050
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Oil and filter change on the Highlander. My first time working under the hood, so in true Toyota fashion, I had a pile of tools out when I was finished.

Out:
  • OEM oil filter element
  • GTMO 0W-20 (OCI 5,546 mi)
In:
  • Denso 150-3021 oil filter element (odd that Denso no longer shows this filter by application or part number).
  • Idemitsu IFG-3, 0W-20 (6qt)
I tried replacing the cabin filter, but the Denso 454-5057 woudn't fit into the filter frame. "First Time Fit"....sure, what ever you say.

Edit: There's a clip attached to the oil filter housing. What is it's function? No reference in the FSM. P/N 15679-31050
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It's a secondary retention device for the oil filter housing but doesn't really accomplish anything. Just bend it back while unscrewing the filter, if necessary.
 
Typical holiday week. If you take a Monday off you have 4 more Mondays in a row.

8 loads of rock moved today and found a deck screw in one of my new drive tires. Patched it up tonight because the truck has to work again tomorrow.

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2000 Ram 1500:
-battery went dead and then it would start with a jump and run with throttle but absolutely would not idle. Not uncommon on these trucks. Installed new battery and cleaned throttle body. Problem resolved

2014 Ram 1500:
-overheating. Based on symptoms I suspected thermostat. Pulled it and tested. I actually keep a sauce pan in the shop for this, but still use the kitchen range. The thermostat absolutely did not open at all when it should.

Nothing to see here, honey:
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2011 F350 6.7:
-using my new Autool SVB408 inspection camera, my buddy was able to retrieve the nut I dropped in the exhaust manifold awhile back when trying to extract a broken EGR bolt.

The Autool has a smaller head than my Depstech and more importantly is 4-way articulation. He was somehow able to get the camera and a magnet-on-a-stick down to the valves. Seen here is just the magnet stick
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The nut that was retrieved from on top of a valve:
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There's still a mystery ring on top of another valve. This looks like NOTHING that makes sense. Tomorrow he'll try again to retrieve it
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2000 Ram 1500:
-battery went dead and then it would start with a jump and run with throttle but absolutely would not idle. Not uncommon on these trucks. Installed new battery and cleaned throttle body. Problem resolved

2014 Ram 1500:
-overheating. Based on symptoms I suspected thermostat. Pulled it and tested. I actually keep a sauce pan in the shop for this, but still use the kitchen range. The thermostat absolutely did not open at all when it should.

Nothing to see here, honey:

2011 F350 6.7:
-using my new Autool SVB408 inspection camera, my buddy was able to retrieve the nut I dropped in the exhaust manifold awhile back when trying to extract a broken EGR bolt.

The Autool has a smaller head than my Depstech and more importantly is 4-way articulation. He was somehow able to get the camera and a magnet-on-a-stick down to the valves. Seen here is just the magnet stick

The nut that was retrieved from on top of a valve:

There's still a mystery ring on top of another valve. This looks like NOTHING that makes sense. Tomorrow he'll try again to retrieve itView attachment 339490
Kind of looks like the metal ring for a valve stem seal. It has been a long time, but I think the type of seal was called a PC seal?
 
Changed the original PCV valve on my uncles highly neglected 2014 GMC 1500 with the 4.3 DI
144,xxx miles

Its been using 1 to 2 quarts between changes, I said why not try the PCV valve. I replaced it with an AcDelco one, this one still rattled but looks gunked up.

This truck gets cheap 15W40, and a cheap filter. Hes a get in and go kind of guy, never checks or changes any fluids whatsoever.

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It's a secondary retention device for the oil filter housing but doesn't really accomplish anything. Just bend it back while unscrewing the filter, if necessary.
That's what I figured its intended function is. Evidence is that it was bent out of the way a long time prior. Thanks!
 
That's what I figured its intended function is. Evidence is that it was bent out of the way a long time prior. Thanks!
From what I've seen not all of their canister filters got it despite using the identical housing. I've stopped trying to figure it out.
 
2009 Rogue:
-they said the CVT had been slipping but it was fine today. Was low on fluid. They're deciding if they just want to top off or service it
-found failed Trakmotive axle I installed Aug '24 :rolleyes:
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2011 F350 6.7:
-my buddy fished out the mystery ring from the head. Turned out to be a ring that threads around the head of my Depstech camera
-NEXT I machined a "plug" for working in the EGR area 'cause I ain't going thru that again! You can't use rags if you're trying to weld a nut on the broken bolt
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-never could get welding to work so resorted to drilling. With a right angle drill and screw machine bits you can get in there.
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Finally backed it out with a LH bit @researcher then chased the threads M6x1.0
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The F350 lives again! (new grille coming)
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2013 Express:
-returned to have the MOVE bumper bolted up which I finally finished welding
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He'll have it powdercoated
 
6R140 overhaul. Getting some goodies on this one. I’m honestly impressed it made it to me on its own. Lost a seal on forward clutch, and direct clutch got a bit toasty. This all started over the winter when the owner got stuck in the snow.

Got everything cleaned, and ready to assemble, case is painted, valve body vacuum tested.

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