What are you working on today?

D60 said:
2015 CRV: engine oil change. My lift is tied up with the basket case Ram so I had to use my ramps like a peasant :cry:

On the bright side my ramps are super uber mega kool since I added dimple died bracing :cool:View attachment 339209

edit: I did not prefill the filter this time and man it sounds bad until it builds oil pressure. I know Freedomworx did some testing and prefilling didn't reduce any wear, but I prefer to prefill just for less psychological damage. I'll be hearing that angry sewing machine in my dreams (nightmares) tonight.....
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Not every vehicle has this, but with the top mounted filter on the Subaru I do a couple cycles of clear flood mode on it to build oil pressure. Doesn't work on the Camry, so I have to endure the timing chain slap for an extra couple seconds. I don't remember the Outlander making any noise filling the filter up.
 
Delta said:
Not every vehicle has this, but with the top mounted filter on the Subaru I do a couple cycles of clear flood mode on it to build oil pressure. Doesn't work on the Camry, so I have to endure the timing chain slap for an extra couple seconds. I don't remember the Outlander making any noise filling the filter up.
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You can fill the filter a few hours before or the night before and it won't spill on those upside down filters...
 
This weekend I piddled with ope. Got my free poulan running with a carburetor/fuel line/ primer bulb, fuel filter kit I found on walmart.com. Needs a chain but I think it'll be a good little saw. An old customer of mine brought me his sisters push mower that wouldn't start. Troy Bilt TB200 self propelled with a briggs 625ex engine. I've messed with these a little in the past, the plastic self prime carburetor will get crud in what seems to be the jet apparatus. There was also some crud in the fuel tank. Removed both and did a thorough cleaning. Took some grunt work and a cheater shot of brake cleaner to fire it off, but I was finally able to get it to start self priming and starting on its own like it should. I changed the oil, waiting on him to bring me an air filter and new spark plug today.
 
We have a 2009 Honda Pilot in the family, just recently acquired. It still has 50,000 miles until the next timing belt change. I built a second set of Pine-O’s to get it up on all four corners. Here is a pic, modelled after my existing set so the wheels will climb at the same rate and are at the same height. I am working towards changing 5 things.

1. Rear diff fluid
2. Transfer case fluid
3. Transmission fluid
4. Motor oil
5. Coolant

I crawled underneath and confirmed the Honda’s pipe thread square plugs are tighter than you know what. Plus the plugs in the rear diff are rusted and none of my 3/8 square drive fittings will fit. Here are photos of the fittings on the transfer case. I ordered a pipe thread insert fitting tool to help with that and for now sprayed all the threaded plugs with Liquid Wrench. Does anyone have any suggestions on any other tool to reach into the pipe fitting plug to apply torque?

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Was chasing a tire leak on my kid's 08 Prius and I couldn't loosen/ tighten/ check the valve core because it was frozen. So I removed the nut and tapped it into the rim with a hammer, got the air out in under a second, LOL. Pulled the tire and found this. It was still working, transmitting! The fuzz is a sort of asphalt, not sticky. Figure some fix-a-flat was used at one point then the "tire shreddings" found their way back there between sensor and rim. Rest of the rim is clean.

Wire brushed the bead surfaces, that weren't bad, but you never know, and I was in there. Back together with a new sensor, programmed, GTG, maybe? LOL.

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The_Jeff said:
Was chasing a tire leak on my kid's 08 Prius and I couldn't loosen/ tighten/ check the valve core because it was frozen. So I removed the nut and tapped it into the rim with a hammer, got the air out in under a second, LOL. Pulled the tire and found this. It was still working, transmitting! The fuzz is a sort of asphalt, not sticky. Figure some fix-a-flat was used at one point then the "tire shreddings" found their way back there between sensor and rim. Rest of the rim is clean.

Wire brushed the bead surfaces, that weren't bad, but you never know, and I was in there. Back together with a new sensor, programmed, GTG, maybe? LOL.

View attachment 339246
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I was tripping a little bit; I saw this on Reddit and now here. Was wondering what was going on :ROFLMAO:
 
The_Jeff said:
Was chasing a tire leak on my kid's 08 Prius and I couldn't loosen/ tighten/ check the valve core because it was frozen. So I removed the nut and tapped it into the rim with a hammer, got the air out in under a second, LOL. Pulled the tire and found this. It was still working, transmitting! The fuzz is a sort of asphalt, not sticky. Figure some fix-a-flat was used at one point then the "tire shreddings" found their way back there between sensor and rim. Rest of the rim is clean.

Wire brushed the bead surfaces, that weren't bad, but you never know, and I was in there. Back together with a new sensor, programmed, GTG, maybe? LOL.

View attachment 339246
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Looks like a really greasy clipless pedal
 
Finished up the transmission swap in the basket case Ram ('05 1500 5.7 4x4)

Yep that's over 311k freedom:
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Transmissions 'n stuff everywhere:
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Beats bench pressing it
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I opted to leave the exhaust but the 241D barely makes it out
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Ram elects to bury two t-case bolts under the transmission xmember, so you almost need two jacks: one to support the transmission while the xmember is absent and one for the t-case
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I did another patented drain plug in the stock pan. Milled a slot so it can theoretically drain 100% and welded into the pan
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The local yard only wanted $289 for this 545RFE and -- at least for now -- it works fine. They sell 4L60s for about double that, so not sure why the Dodge transmission is so inexpensive. Supposed 90 day warranty but per paperwork they could probably weasel out since I'm not ASE certified. Hopefully don't need to find out.
 
Learn Ya said:
2024 Cub Cadet XT1 LT46: First transmission fluid change using Amsoil Hydrostatic 20W-50. 💪
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FYI: I just ran the mower for the first time after the fluid change. The transmission was noticeably quieter (no more annoying whine) and the top speed was noticeably faster. Must be a fluid pressure thing? I don't know and I don't care. It ran great! Just my $0.02.
 
cptbarkey said:
My truck has developed a consistent miss, but no check engine light. I am the 2nd owner since 2007 and put about 25k miles on it during that long duration, its sitting at a lazy 134k on the odo. It’s given me only age related problems. I started the parts cannon today with an OEM fuel filter. No change in behavior, but it was notable that the filter wasn’t original, being a Fram. The inner cartridge on the Fram was loose which didn’t inspire confidence. I did replace the spark plug wires with AC Delo Professional wires about 12 months ago, only as a maintenance activity. I can’t remember if I had a miss this badly before the change.

I don’t have an OBD2 scanner, so one is on order. Will try to diagnose vs parts cannon from now on for this repair, I’d like to do some heavier towing sometime in the next 2-3 years to eventually invest in a 3 ton excavator.

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Finally got time to solve the misfire.

I tried 3 different scanners, none showed mode 6 misfire counts. A friend loaned me some known good coils, swapped each one, no change. Finally bought new ngk platinum plugs and AC Delco wires, and the misfire is gone, she runs like a goat. I am happy. It was something on the passenger side, I was in a hurry from a thunderstorm and couldn’t determine which cylinder exactly.

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D60 said:
Pulled the 545RFE out of the basket case '05 Ram.

I found the notorious front diff bracket. Puzzled, I scratched my head for awhile, then stared blankly into space. Made some caveman grunts, then searched the interweb. Surprisingly little discussion of this bracket, with most people asking about it then disappearing -- I suspect many are afraid to say they cut it and didn't bother replacing/welding it back.

1) One guy says you can rotate the transmission to clear it. I wasn't convinced it would come off the dowels enough, and even if it did I figured removal would be FAR easier than replacement.

2) a couple other guys say to support the motor and remove the engine mount on that side (the bracket goes from bellhousing to front diff to motor mount and is all one piece). On principle alone I was NOT doing this -- Dodge can suck my.....crossmember ;)

I chose option #3 which was the blue wrench. Worked well enough, but they COULD have made this bracket bolt together and still maintained sufficient rigidity. The whole thing seems arguably unnecessary anyway. View attachment 339127View attachment 339129

I'm curious how more experienced guys deal with this bracket? @clinebarger
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Don't think I've ever done a 545RFE in a 4WD Ram 1500, DFW used to be the epicenter of 2WD 1/2 ton pick-up's....Only Jeep Wranglers & Diesel pick-up's were 4WD.
 
Pulled lower radiator hose on the Heavy Chevy 6.0 to get some coolant out and replace it. Changed oil and filter too. Lubed the door hinges on the front. She’s rusty but has to last me a few more years because the wife needs a new car.

Replaced the MAF a couple days ago after a lean code and fuel trims look good so hopefully the ping ping ping goes away. MAF voltage didn’t change when back probed and rpms increased so replaced it. 92k miles on it at 15yo. Going to rot out before anything major needs replacing.
 
clinebarger said:
Don't think I've ever done a 545RFE in a 4WD Ram 1500, DFW used to be the epicenter of 2WD 1/2 ton pick-up's....Only Jeep Wranglers & Diesel pick-up's were 4WD.
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It's really an odd design. I got it nice and rosy today and pounded that one tab back until I could start the upper bolt, then used the bolt to suck it back once I got it cherry again.

We know all about you TX folks at the ski areas up here! We used to call 2wd Suburbans "Texas Town Cars" and they were always stuck in the parking lot ;)
 
Got the driver door working again on the 2004 Escape. Put some dry lube through the outer door handle and magically she works. So..... Im going to clean it up this week, maybe throw a new front wheel bearing in it and put her for sale.
 
D60 said:
It's really an odd design. I got it nice and rosy today and pounded that one tab back until I could start the upper bolt, then used the bolt to suck it back once I got it cherry again.

We know all about you TX folks at the ski areas up here! We used to call 2wd Suburbans "Texas Town Cars" and they were always stuck in the parking lot ;)
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I've worked more on the later 8HP equipped 4WD Rams....They still mount the front differential to the engine/mount brackets & do have a pinion support bracket.....But it's not wrapped around the bellhousing. The service information makes no mention of this bracket in Alldata on a '05 Ram.

Those people would just get themselves in more trouble with 4WD.....I see it everytime we do get ice/snow here!
 
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