What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I miss the roar of those S60s in the back of a MCI D4500 bus, compared to the Cummins ISM/ISX12 that replaced them when Daimler stopped supplying engines outside of Freightliner/Setra/Thomas for the exception of Pierce fire trucks. They make those heavy buses move effortlessly vs. the Cummins that sounds strained.
I have the car a long need car wash by hand, instead of the local scratch and shine. The paint was also pretty oxidized - so I gave it a quick and dirty prep with a clay bar. No iron decontamination. Used Griot’s Ceramic all-in-one which worked surprisingly well to address the oxidation. I had to use their BOSS Fast Correcting Creme(which was more of a liquid now, haven’t used it in 3 years) to cut through the oxidation on the roof. Almost 20 year old paint buffed out pretty nicely. It’s not a perfect, concours/show grade detail.
Replaced the Knock sensor on my '08 Honda CR-V. Had to partially remove the front shroud under the radiator and purchase a big 'ol 27mm combination wrench to get the job done. The old sensor came out pretty easy. It was tough to get myself positioned so that I could hold the replacement at the right angle to get the treads to catch enough to spin the new one in. It was located up around the starter and there was barely enough room to fit my hand and forearm up there. Good thing that at 69 years old, I'm not as muscular as my younger self! Even though it was a simple fix, I still get satisfaction from getting it done, not having to pay someone to do it and no longer seeing that check engine light on!
Replacing the water pump pulley on my 1968 Firebird 350. Going to a smaller pulley to get more fan speed at idle. Coolant temps climb when in traffic-stopped. Otherwise temps stay at 180 degrees while moving. Also may try a 19inch fixed blade (no clutch) fan assembly. Fan clutches produced in this era don’t fully engage until temperatures are 200 degrees plus. This 58 year old 350 doesn’t like (nor do I) temps that high. Onward!
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
I had a '69 LeMans convertible with 350HO. I put an aluminum flex fan on it as well as a 4 core radiator for a Cadillac. The flex fan required a spacer to get it out to the shroud. I don't know the dimensions for Firebirds radiators, but I measured at a junkyard and the Cadillac radiator was drop-in with no mods for the Tempest body LeMans.
The Caddy radiator would certainly be big enough. I’ve got a 4 core Cold Case radiator in it now. These Pontiacs make a lot of heat. I’ve owned other makes (60s cars) with a fixed 4 blade fan and no shroud and they never got hot. I leaned on the HO cam, heads, and compression specs when I did my top end engine overhaul. After this heating up business is taken care of the 2.56 rear end will get refreshed to a 3.08. Add a little more zip earlier in the RPM range. 60 in first gear is ok getting on the freeway but I stay on the country roads.
Late post.
Since the Accord was being sold to someone I know, I decided to not cut any corners. I finished up the reconditioning work on the Accord by investing in the following items:
- Alignment due to control arm bushing replacement
- Two Low Pressure P/S Hoses. Neither hose was leaking, they were just seeping at the connection points. Used Sunsong 3403875 and 3403863. Also used a pair of ABA Nova clamps for the former to make reassembly less painful.
- High Mount Lamp Assembly. Old one had 3 burned out LED's
- Engine Oil and Filter Change (it had been 6 months since the last one)
- Rear Brake Pads and Rotors. Used DFC 5000 Series Pads with their Coated Rotors. Old ones were at 4mm.
- Bleed Brakes (after brake service)
- Serpentine Drive Belt and Tensioner. Belt was 7 years old and the aftermarket tensioner was bouncing. Used a Litens tensioner and Bando Belt.
- Secured the OBD Connector. Prior owner had broken off the clip. I decided against replacing the connector and elected to use RTV and glue gel to secure.
- Cleaned the Battery Terminals and installed NOCO washers plus their spray.
- Replaced Radiator. Old radiator was not leaking (passed pressure test) but appeared rusty and there were some suspicious stains. Installed a new Koyorad with new coolant.
Alignment:
Two Low Pressure P/S hoses. Only took pictures of one.
High Mount Lamp Assembly. Didn’t take pictures of the new one:
Rear Brake Pads and Rotors:
Drive Belt and Tensioner. Picture with tensioner removed:
Secured OBD connector — it has a broken tab:
Radiator:
Final Engine Bay Shot:
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Did the transfer case on the 2020 Ram with the 48-11. Easy as it gets. The fluid was pretty dark but not burnt smelling or anything in the plugs (assuming they are magnetic). In went some conventional Conventional Co-op THF tractor fluid. I will run this for a bit and then pick up a few new oils.
The local PetroCan has Duratran XL THF and Duradrive LV for a good price, which will be a good fit for the Ram.
The local PetroCan has Duratran XL THF and Duradrive LV for a good price, which will be a good fit for the Ram.
Pulled the '79 Caddy out of storage this morning and wanted to get it up on the hoist for it's spring inspection... but my hoist had other ideas. As soon as I hit the lift switch, the motor let out a horrible grind followed by magic smoke and the sound of the breaker popping. Awesome timing.
Ordered a Vevor replacement pump from Home Depot, as the original Duro PU-220V-L-H pump costs north of $700 and that's just not in the budget right now. On the plus side, having to remove the pump finally gave me an excuse to pull the leaking hydraulic line so I can fab up a new one this week at work.
On the plus side, the Cadillac fired right up after it's 6+ month long slumber. All the tires held within 2 pounds of where they were set, the air shocks stood strong, and it doesn't appear as though any rodents got after it while in storage. Little victories.
Ordered a Vevor replacement pump from Home Depot, as the original Duro PU-220V-L-H pump costs north of $700 and that's just not in the budget right now. On the plus side, having to remove the pump finally gave me an excuse to pull the leaking hydraulic line so I can fab up a new one this week at work.
On the plus side, the Cadillac fired right up after it's 6+ month long slumber. All the tires held within 2 pounds of where they were set, the air shocks stood strong, and it doesn't appear as though any rodents got after it while in storage. Little victories.
Cut brush on Saturday, Sunday and yesterday I piddled around working on a 2000 Chevrolet Express 1500. No rush on it so I just took my time.
Replaced front wheel bearings, brake rotors, brake pads, calipers and hoses. Replaced distributor cap, rotor button, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter, and did an oil change.
Replaced front wheel bearings, brake rotors, brake pads, calipers and hoses. Replaced distributor cap, rotor button, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter, and did an oil change.
2015 Lexus GX460: engine oil change. I continue to be annoyed by Toyota's truck skid plates. The holes never line up quite right when you go to put it back together.
2014 Nissan 370Z: engine oil change. Once again my super fancy Vivo Home ramps made getting it on the lift possible:
2014 Nissan 370Z: engine oil change. Once again my super fancy Vivo Home ramps made getting it on the lift possible:
7 loads of rock hauled.
Then threw a new alternator on my Kubota L245 tractor courtesy of DB Electrical. Went to plow my parents garden last week and had to jump start it. It still had the original alternator based on the sticker so it didn’t owe me anything. This was the first use for the disk and I don’t think it’s seen grease since it was new. Two tubes of Schaeffer 219 everything was turning good.
Now on to replace valve cover gaskets in my 86 K20 service truck.
Then threw a new alternator on my Kubota L245 tractor courtesy of DB Electrical. Went to plow my parents garden last week and had to jump start it. It still had the original alternator based on the sticker so it didn’t owe me anything. This was the first use for the disk and I don’t think it’s seen grease since it was new. Two tubes of Schaeffer 219 everything was turning good.
Now on to replace valve cover gaskets in my 86 K20 service truck.
Replaced the outside spigot.. for the 3rd time. With my boys help didn’t take long.
Cleaned the radiator on the borrowed truck. If you have a Chevy truck I’d highly suggest popping off the plastic covering and check it. Clean the RVs- Chevy Express- yearly and runs fairly cool.
Cleaned the radiator on the borrowed truck. If you have a Chevy truck I’d highly suggest popping off the plastic covering and check it. Clean the RVs- Chevy Express- yearly and runs fairly cool.
4 wheel brake job on a 2017 Ram 5500 aerial boom truck, It's generally my rule to not work on anything over a 1 ton but this a good client/account that spends quite a bit at my shop, This truck is originally from Connecticut & boy was it rusty......Had to loosen all the lug nuts & drive it just to break loose the wheels from the hubs.
Got back on the '03 F150 2V 4.6L head gasket job, Cab lowered back down....
Got back on the '03 F150 2V 4.6L head gasket job, Cab lowered back down....
2021 Silverado 1500 3.0 Dmax: Installed a PPE deep pan and PPE aftermarket transmission cooler. The owner is suddenly very concerned about longevity of his 10L80 but didn't want to do a NextGem valve body and seemingly didn't know anything about a thermostat delete.
The pan is easy but not sure these are worth the money.
The cooler is very straightforward in theory but took forever because it's difficult to get the lines back on. This guy does a good job of not being overly dramatic but believe him when he says it's a chore:
The owner was still running factory alloys and I talked him into one-piece lugnuts I had here.
Now for Sir Rants A Lot: let's run ULV and the highest transmissionmission temps possible in the name of MPG -- and, ultimately, being "green." But let's then use one-time-use transmission filter bolts that are TTY? Do we have an epidemic of transmission filters escaping due to the extremely high loads placed on them, like main bearings in a motor?
And how is it green or ecologically sound to require new bolts when others can somehow use bolts that can be used time and again?? You think most shops scrap those bolts? Nah, straight to the landfill -- not that it much matters because if you scrap them they're transmissionported (energy) to the scrap yard, then transmissionported several more times (energy energy energy), then melted down using absurd amounts of energy (ENERGY), and then maybe shipped back to us (energy) as something else -- after being thrown into new packaging (energy)
But yeah, we're saving the planet with thin fluid and by shortening transmissionmission life with tenps on the ragged edge of clutch delam
Cognitive dissonance is real, folks!
The pan is easy but not sure these are worth the money.
The cooler is very straightforward in theory but took forever because it's difficult to get the lines back on. This guy does a good job of not being overly dramatic but believe him when he says it's a chore:
The owner was still running factory alloys and I talked him into one-piece lugnuts I had here.
Now for Sir Rants A Lot: let's run ULV and the highest transmissionmission temps possible in the name of MPG -- and, ultimately, being "green." But let's then use one-time-use transmission filter bolts that are TTY? Do we have an epidemic of transmission filters escaping due to the extremely high loads placed on them, like main bearings in a motor?
And how is it green or ecologically sound to require new bolts when others can somehow use bolts that can be used time and again?? You think most shops scrap those bolts? Nah, straight to the landfill -- not that it much matters because if you scrap them they're transmissionported (energy) to the scrap yard, then transmissionported several more times (energy energy energy), then melted down using absurd amounts of energy (ENERGY), and then maybe shipped back to us (energy) as something else -- after being thrown into new packaging (energy)
But yeah, we're saving the planet with thin fluid and by shortening transmissionmission life with tenps on the ragged edge of clutch delam
Cognitive dissonance is real, folks!
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
A fluid and system that SO many people fail to realize should be changed and flushed occasionally.
Finished up the '03 F150.
But let's then use one-time-use transmission filter bolts that are TTY? Do we have an epidemic of transmission filters escaping due to the extremely high loads placed on them, like main bearings in a motor?
And how is it green or ecologically sound to require new bolts when others can somehow use bolts that can be used time and again?? You think most shops scrap those bolts? Nah, straight to the landfill -- not that it much matters because if you scrap them they're transmissionported (energy) to the scrap yard, then transmissionported several more times (energy energy energy), then melted down using absurd amounts of energy (ENERGY), and then maybe shipped back to us (energy) as something else -- after being thrown into new packaging (energy)
But yeah, we're saving the planet with thin fluid and by shortening transmissionmission life with tenps on the ragged edge of clutch delam
Cognitive dissonance is real, folks!
They're aluminum & can break if reused, The speed sensors also use the same type bolt. The GEN 1 10L80 used regular steel bolts.
I'm sure it's about weight & CAFE standards.