- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
Looking GOOD! Done a few of those back in the day. Things were so much simpler then...HEAVY sigh.
In the (much) later years it started to get difficult finding a case with pristine case lugs.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
In the (much) later years it started to get difficult finding a case with pristine case lugs.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
I have the "Chineseum" carb on my 9n. It works well, although I had to slightly "waller" out the manifold flange holes because the carbs mounting studs were just a "tad" wider than stock. I also installed the 12 volt conversion with the good old Delco 10SI. Works fantastic.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
And the Quadrajet sincerely appreciates you for that! I have run more than a few "Quads" and they all received a inline spin-on fuel filter with a top quality element (usually a Baldwin) at some location.
With my hoist back up and running, it was time to get the '95 in to replace the seized RR caliper. Went closeout or eBay on everything: Chinese Auto Extra semi-coated rotors, Indian CQ Platinum semi-metallic pads, Mexico-rebuilt Pro Line calipers and Chinese Sunsong hoses. Flushed the system with fresh DOT4 and called it a job well done.
Finished off with a tire rotation and an oil change: drained/removed a 4.5k mile run of Valvoline Restore and Protect/Fram FPS3506 and dumped in 7.5 quarts of Castrol A3/B4 5w30 along with a Mobil M1-206 Extended Performance filter and a new drain plug seal.
Took the blades off my uncle’s mower so he could sharpen both, expandable 3/4 rachet is one of the best tools ever bought. Brought home the 86 f150 5.0-EFI/auto. Going to try reviving but its rough.. beat by cows rough. Got parked due to coolant leak on the back of the timing cover.. then the bolts broke off. That was 20 years ago back before I knew anything.. still don’t but I’m better at figuring it out. Think the transmission or rear end has a issue also but have to figure that out if it runs.
Performed a 21 year old TSB on a 22 year old Highlander
Because that's a productive use of my Sunday
The new OPUS IVS Supergoose Plus was utilized, and an online cache of .cuw files netted the update for this '04 Highlander 3MZ 5AT
TC004-05
ECM CALIBRATION: SHIFT FEELING ENHANCEMENT
Took ~40 minutes from start to finish, plus ECU reset and writing the VIN to the ECM
Best practices were followed, everything plugged in and a 20a power supply keeping voltage
Trio of wiper blades, one brake light bulb, and a PSF reservoir that had a clogged filter
Since all brands seem to be made in China, I'm trying these Hella and Bosch blades
Reasonably priced, and I've had no complaints
It didn't quiet down the pump like I hoped it would, but it's a bit better
This Lares part didn't fit quite like the OEM part, I'm gonna contact them
Because that's a productive use of my Sunday
The new OPUS IVS Supergoose Plus was utilized, and an online cache of .cuw files netted the update for this '04 Highlander 3MZ 5AT
TC004-05
ECM CALIBRATION: SHIFT FEELING ENHANCEMENT
Took ~40 minutes from start to finish, plus ECU reset and writing the VIN to the ECM
Best practices were followed, everything plugged in and a 20a power supply keeping voltage
Trio of wiper blades, one brake light bulb, and a PSF reservoir that had a clogged filter
Since all brands seem to be made in China, I'm trying these Hella and Bosch blades
Reasonably priced, and I've had no complaints
It didn't quiet down the pump like I hoped it would, but it's a bit better
This Lares part didn't fit quite like the OEM part, I'm gonna contact them
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
10 days ago, my wife came back from Trader Joe's: good news: My TPMS light is off (we had a cold snap), bad news: CEL is on. I am like: OK, no biggie, at 113,000 miles I am expecting PCV to die any day. Opsie, not so fast. I get the dreaded P0299 code on the VW Tiguan. I was like: well, there goes turbo.
On these IHI turbos, the wastegate rod gets loose, as well as the arm that the rod is attached to. Turbos rarely, if ever, die in these, unless grossly neglected, but the wastegate is another story. Repairing only the wastegate does not make sense, since the turbo has to go out.
Well, last weekend I went under the car, somehow got my arm in to inspect the rod and wastegate arm. Rod does not have absolutely any play, while the arm is just a little bit loose, but nothing major. A temporary solution to this is to bend the rod a bit (using the Turbobend tool developed for these engines) to tighten the seal where the arm goes into the turbo. So, I am already thinking to do that which on Tiguan is bit of work as axle has to go out etc. But still, confusing considering there is no play. I know there is a boost leak, I can hear it when driving.
Then I remember that these had issues with diverter valves. They upgraded the diverter valve in 2011. Mine is 2011, but actually it is made in 2010.
So, there's a good chance it is an old, problematic style diverter valve. Why not try? It is cheap. So, I order Pierburg (OEM) diverter valve ($59), and new Hengst PCV (OEM, $110). PCV is still OK, but if they fail, they will blow the rear main seal, so just as preventive maintenance, why not?
Today, I get under the car. DV is not the most accessible, but it is OK, not too much drama. One screw cannot be seen when under the car, so it is working by feel. I disconnect DV, and oil pours from the connector. I was: OK, this definitely should not be happening.
I get DV out and lo and behold:
You can see a cracked red gasket there, and oil was just passing through, probably killing it. That is old-style DV, and that red gasket is what cracks.
I am now feeling better, thinking maybe, maybe, wastegate is OK. But still, don't want to celebrate prematurely.
Installed new DV, latest update (there were several updates):
You can see the difference between old and new:
Of course, I lost one screw, dropped it somewhere into the subframe, tried to find it using a magnet, went to ACE, and they had it. Then trip to Wal Mart to get Brakeklean as I did not see I don't have any to clean surfaces.
Then it was time for PCV:
Old:
I put a new one in, turned the car on, and all was good. Car warmed up while I was cleaning the garage, removed QuickJacks, etc.
No leaks anywhere. Time for a test drive.
Lo and behold, the boost is back! No boost leak, permanent P0299 is gone as boost reached appropriate values.
Overall, good day. I did not change anything on this car since VW replaced the water pump under a free replacement campaign at 64k, when I also did coils and spark plugs.
So, hopefully, this is it when it comes to P0299.
On these IHI turbos, the wastegate rod gets loose, as well as the arm that the rod is attached to. Turbos rarely, if ever, die in these, unless grossly neglected, but the wastegate is another story. Repairing only the wastegate does not make sense, since the turbo has to go out.
Well, last weekend I went under the car, somehow got my arm in to inspect the rod and wastegate arm. Rod does not have absolutely any play, while the arm is just a little bit loose, but nothing major. A temporary solution to this is to bend the rod a bit (using the Turbobend tool developed for these engines) to tighten the seal where the arm goes into the turbo. So, I am already thinking to do that which on Tiguan is bit of work as axle has to go out etc. But still, confusing considering there is no play. I know there is a boost leak, I can hear it when driving.
Then I remember that these had issues with diverter valves. They upgraded the diverter valve in 2011. Mine is 2011, but actually it is made in 2010.
So, there's a good chance it is an old, problematic style diverter valve. Why not try? It is cheap. So, I order Pierburg (OEM) diverter valve ($59), and new Hengst PCV (OEM, $110). PCV is still OK, but if they fail, they will blow the rear main seal, so just as preventive maintenance, why not?
Today, I get under the car. DV is not the most accessible, but it is OK, not too much drama. One screw cannot be seen when under the car, so it is working by feel. I disconnect DV, and oil pours from the connector. I was: OK, this definitely should not be happening.
I get DV out and lo and behold:
You can see a cracked red gasket there, and oil was just passing through, probably killing it. That is old-style DV, and that red gasket is what cracks.
I am now feeling better, thinking maybe, maybe, wastegate is OK. But still, don't want to celebrate prematurely.
Installed new DV, latest update (there were several updates):
You can see the difference between old and new:
Of course, I lost one screw, dropped it somewhere into the subframe, tried to find it using a magnet, went to ACE, and they had it. Then trip to Wal Mart to get Brakeklean as I did not see I don't have any to clean surfaces.
Then it was time for PCV:
Old:
I put a new one in, turned the car on, and all was good. Car warmed up while I was cleaning the garage, removed QuickJacks, etc.
No leaks anywhere. Time for a test drive.
Lo and behold, the boost is back! No boost leak, permanent P0299 is gone as boost reached appropriate values.
Overall, good day. I did not change anything on this car since VW replaced the water pump under a free replacement campaign at 64k, when I also did coils and spark plugs.
So, hopefully, this is it when it comes to P0299.
Last edited:
worked on radio replacement on a 2015 F-350. Former work truck. It had a cheap radio and a data interface since Ford used RAP and MS-CAN to run this. The Axxess adapter was used to provide both +12V constant(keep-alive) and switched(accessory) power. Thought the new Kenwood would work with a regular adapter. Nope. It turned into a 5 hour ordeal but the truck is mostly back together. Owner is ordering a dash kit and I need to reset and reprogram the Axxess modules one-by-one.
Water pump R&R on '15 BMW 328d. Not bad at all except for dealing with all the quirky German engineering.
Obviously a still photo does no good but the pump that came off was roasted -- gobs of play at the pulley. A Saleri came off and a Saleri went back on
Obviously a still photo does no good but the pump that came off was roasted -- gobs of play at the pulley. A Saleri came off and a Saleri went back on
I went thru it on an '87 302 F150 years ago. Still keep my shop-brew stainless bushings in a baggie in my box. If you can get the water pump to stay in place, it provides locating for the bushings to drill into the timing cover and stay concentric
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Replaced a BMW N52 Expansion Tank cap and hose clip. Minor seepage from each all fixed.
Well .....life's much harder when you're dumb. I bolted in the JY TR690 on this 2015 Outback. The yard had peeled the pan open -- we're gonna hope to look for stuff in the pan that shouldn't be there -- and so I installed a new strainer "filter" and sealed up the pan with Right Stuff. I filled the fluid and even got it to the correct level.
BUT if were smart I would have skipped nearly all that and just turned the key on and pulled codes. It'll throw solenoid codes with nothing more than key on engine off.
I had a code for the AWD solenoid. So....you get to drain the fluid, peel the pan back open, drop the valve body etc etc. Then clean up all the mating surfaces (@Trav 's favorite activity) once you're satisfied and apply more RTV
What's more scary is that I had the AWD solenoid code (385 ohms and should be 3.2) but checked them all and the torque converter lockup solenoid was also bad (65 ohms and should be 12). Fortunately I ohm'd them all while the vb was on the bench -- although you can do it (test) without removing the vb.
I had the old TR690 as a solenoid donor so I set it on its face and robbed the entire valve body:
I'm often skilled at smearing RTV but wow these cheap little plastic pan hangers are a lifesaver. I need to remember to use them more often.
I ran out of steam tonight -- need to refill transmission tomorrow and hope it works.
BUT if were smart I would have skipped nearly all that and just turned the key on and pulled codes. It'll throw solenoid codes with nothing more than key on engine off.
I had a code for the AWD solenoid. So....you get to drain the fluid, peel the pan back open, drop the valve body etc etc. Then clean up all the mating surfaces (@Trav 's favorite activity) once you're satisfied and apply more RTV
What's more scary is that I had the AWD solenoid code (385 ohms and should be 3.2) but checked them all and the torque converter lockup solenoid was also bad (65 ohms and should be 12). Fortunately I ohm'd them all while the vb was on the bench -- although you can do it (test) without removing the vb.
I had the old TR690 as a solenoid donor so I set it on its face and robbed the entire valve body:
I'm often skilled at smearing RTV but wow these cheap little plastic pan hangers are a lifesaver. I need to remember to use them more often.
I ran out of steam tonight -- need to refill transmission tomorrow and hope it works.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2025
- Messages
- 138
Phew! Finally a successful test drive with the '15 Outback and junkyard CVT. This has been a long saga for a kinda-sorta family friend, complicated by her lack of funds (and my general incompetence)
I'm now quite proficient in the TR690 R&R, basic torque specs, and valve body removal for swapping solenoids. The problem is that tonight I'll sleep and then I'll forget 80% of it.
I'm also just gonna say (RANT!) that Subaru's choice to put the motor mounts on the bellhousing and use super-mega fine thread bolts in tight quarters makes their CVT R&R way harder than it needs to be.
I also finally took the time to get rid of the stupid push connect fittings on my Mityvac fluid pump (at the suggestion of @clinebarger), so for the first time I filled a transmission without a big puddle from my hose. What a concept.
Then, less exciting: engine oil change in a '17 Tundra with a whopping 85k miles. The owner was excited at the idea of an aluminum filter housing to replace the plastic, so I'm continuing my quest to rid the world of the plastic units. Keep up the good fight
I'm now quite proficient in the TR690 R&R, basic torque specs, and valve body removal for swapping solenoids. The problem is that tonight I'll sleep and then I'll forget 80% of it.
I'm also just gonna say (RANT!) that Subaru's choice to put the motor mounts on the bellhousing and use super-mega fine thread bolts in tight quarters makes their CVT R&R way harder than it needs to be.
I also finally took the time to get rid of the stupid push connect fittings on my Mityvac fluid pump (at the suggestion of @clinebarger), so for the first time I filled a transmission without a big puddle from my hose. What a concept.
Then, less exciting: engine oil change in a '17 Tundra with a whopping 85k miles. The owner was excited at the idea of an aluminum filter housing to replace the plastic, so I'm continuing my quest to rid the world of the plastic units. Keep up the good fight
Well, things actually went better than planned over at the Crimetown ranch.
Into the shop went my daughter's 2020 Ram 1500 classic, 5.7. It sits at 85ish thousand km. Before we took delivery, they fixed a few things, notably the leaking passenger side cv boot. They said the new cv shaft comes with the whole stub shaft assembly. Ok, trust but verify.
I started out back. Each brake was disassembled, antiseize applied to surfaces, slide pins lubed, calipers bled and then the rear gear oil changed. Well, old dumb Brian must have been favored by the gods, rhe rear rotors popped off with nothing more than a love tap by my palm. Everything looked good and went together well. I was becoming leary as this never happens. Ok so I at least dropped the drain plug and hex bit into the drain pan. Can't have everything.
Up front, same deal, one rotor popped right off, the other needed the bolt through the mounting ear and it popped quick. So, up first was rhe passenger side, nope, no antiseize in the hub splines, lots of powdery rust but my god! A little tap with a hammer and it was free! I knocked the tripot off the stub shaft and what?? They used antiseize!!!!! It buttoned up fine with a quick bleed.
Driver side..... hmmmm..... nope, lots of rust, a few whacks with hammer and the spines were free. The inner tripot took coaxing but it broke free without the stub shaft, and what? Antiseize??? *** is going on??? Well everything got fresh antiseize and again, buttoned up fine. The front diff was serviced and off the blocks it went. Of course I didn't have any ATF laying around so the transfer case will be another day.
Sorry this was a run on, I'm just amazed that this stayed on course, i suffered only minor cuts and it was able to leave the shop under its own power. And the ribs were good.
Into the shop went my daughter's 2020 Ram 1500 classic, 5.7. It sits at 85ish thousand km. Before we took delivery, they fixed a few things, notably the leaking passenger side cv boot. They said the new cv shaft comes with the whole stub shaft assembly. Ok, trust but verify.
I started out back. Each brake was disassembled, antiseize applied to surfaces, slide pins lubed, calipers bled and then the rear gear oil changed. Well, old dumb Brian must have been favored by the gods, rhe rear rotors popped off with nothing more than a love tap by my palm. Everything looked good and went together well. I was becoming leary as this never happens. Ok so I at least dropped the drain plug and hex bit into the drain pan. Can't have everything.
Up front, same deal, one rotor popped right off, the other needed the bolt through the mounting ear and it popped quick. So, up first was rhe passenger side, nope, no antiseize in the hub splines, lots of powdery rust but my god! A little tap with a hammer and it was free! I knocked the tripot off the stub shaft and what?? They used antiseize!!!!! It buttoned up fine with a quick bleed.
Driver side..... hmmmm..... nope, lots of rust, a few whacks with hammer and the spines were free. The inner tripot took coaxing but it broke free without the stub shaft, and what? Antiseize??? *** is going on??? Well everything got fresh antiseize and again, buttoned up fine. The front diff was serviced and off the blocks it went. Of course I didn't have any ATF laying around so the transfer case will be another day.
Sorry this was a run on, I'm just amazed that this stayed on course, i suffered only minor cuts and it was able to leave the shop under its own power. And the ribs were good.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Lovely that the ribs will oil themselves.
I put a receiver on this '15 Outback, mostly as a gift of sorts for the family friend. I'm a firm believer in receivers because -- especially in snow country -- they provide a solid recovery point if nothing else.
I prefer Curt but they hover around $200. This lady may never use this hitch so I decided to try one of the less expensive bolt-together versions that have proliferated on ebay and Amazon.
This one was $126 and while I knew it wouldn't be as nice, I was curious and figured it would likely be "sufficient."
Overall, it works. Cons:
-looks less finished not being fully welded
-the mounting rails that engage the frame are shorter, meaning your load may not be spread as well
-the provided fish wires are terrible. The coils are too small and impossible to unthread once you get them on. Fortunately I hoard the Curt ones, and even though the Curt fish wires are intended for 1/2-13 they worked fine on the provided M12 carriage bolts.
-this requires you to drill one completely new hole on each side, but IIRC Curt uses existing holes (you still have to enlarge a hole, even with Curt)
At the end of the day, I'm glad I tried one but would really recommend spending more money for Curt.
I prefer Curt but they hover around $200. This lady may never use this hitch so I decided to try one of the less expensive bolt-together versions that have proliferated on ebay and Amazon.
This one was $126 and while I knew it wouldn't be as nice, I was curious and figured it would likely be "sufficient."
Overall, it works. Cons:
-looks less finished not being fully welded
-the mounting rails that engage the frame are shorter, meaning your load may not be spread as well
-the provided fish wires are terrible. The coils are too small and impossible to unthread once you get them on. Fortunately I hoard the Curt ones, and even though the Curt fish wires are intended for 1/2-13 they worked fine on the provided M12 carriage bolts.
-this requires you to drill one completely new hole on each side, but IIRC Curt uses existing holes (you still have to enlarge a hole, even with Curt)
At the end of the day, I'm glad I tried one but would really recommend spending more money for Curt.
2014 Ram 1500: service both diffs and transfer case, new LF wheel speed sensor, new LF CV due to split boot.
I decided to try a Top Notch from RA which is supposed to have TPE boots. It seemed nice, but time will tell.
Channeling my inner @BrianF , the stupid inner stub shaft would NOT come out of the ..... well, other inner stub shaft. I don't really understand why Ram wanted to build extra pieces here? It smacks of Subarus of old with the roll pin at the diff.
We wound up cutting the inner CV and then pressed the stub out in my 50T press (with quite a BANG)
But in the meantime I had just ordered a replacement from O'Reilly and we opted to use the new, not-rusty piece.
The lesson for me is just quote a new inner-inner stub on Rams. To that end, at least I learned my one new thing for the day.
I decided to try a Top Notch from RA which is supposed to have TPE boots. It seemed nice, but time will tell.
Channeling my inner @BrianF , the stupid inner stub shaft would NOT come out of the ..... well, other inner stub shaft. I don't really understand why Ram wanted to build extra pieces here? It smacks of Subarus of old with the roll pin at the diff.
We wound up cutting the inner CV and then pressed the stub out in my 50T press (with quite a BANG)
But in the meantime I had just ordered a replacement from O'Reilly and we opted to use the new, not-rusty piece.
The lesson for me is just quote a new inner-inner stub on Rams. To that end, at least I learned my one new thing for the day.