I don't see many plugs. Those seem to have a very large gap relative to the plugs in Toyotas.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
- Joined
- May 5, 2018
- Messages
- 26,557
Don't you just love in spec materials
I just got in some Nylon 101, Acetal, etc in 20mm
It worked out because it wasn't 20mm it ran from .813 to .845 inch od.. now I had a few rods at .815 that was great because I just had to neck and taper the front but .815" was great...better than .787...
I won't mention where I got it but no doubt its Chinese crap...out of spec warped on the ends and no it doesn't machine it fractures....
Since covid nothing is in spec. or good
I just got in some Nylon 101, Acetal, etc in 20mm
It worked out because it wasn't 20mm it ran from .813 to .845 inch od.. now I had a few rods at .815 that was great because I just had to neck and taper the front but .815" was great...better than .787...
I won't mention where I got it but no doubt its Chinese crap...out of spec warped on the ends and no it doesn't machine it fractures....
Since covid nothing is in spec. or good
Well, it was a fantastic day out here again. I wont even begin to say what kind of day it ended up for my wife. Don't have horses. Anyway, I continued the heat cycle on the Ram's front hub splines. Used an air chisel, no dice. Picked up an 8 pound sledge, no dice. Not one half a bloody millimeter. Not anything. I have had some fun with rusted cv shafts before but this one had me beat.
Ok, I'll just unbolt the hub and pull it as one. Nope, the cv housing is to big to get the bolts out. Ok, fine, I'll pull the whole **** knuckle. Beat the pss out of it to get the lower ball joint to release. Well crap, the cv wont allow enough room to remove the knuckle as the ball joint is to long.
I had to grind the cv shaft threads because I pounded it out with the sledge. I barely got the nut on with the 3/4" drive ratchet and snipe. Then it stripped as it almost seated. Who cares, old trailer park trash Brian dont care. The rust will hold it for now. After the long weekend, we will find a shop to figure it out.
On a good note, the stub shaft looked in great shape. The splines were all uniform and other than some rust, good shape.
To finish the day off, I filled the front diff and drained filled the rear . Easy enough.
Ok, I'll just unbolt the hub and pull it as one. Nope, the cv housing is to big to get the bolts out. Ok, fine, I'll pull the whole **** knuckle. Beat the pss out of it to get the lower ball joint to release. Well crap, the cv wont allow enough room to remove the knuckle as the ball joint is to long.
I had to grind the cv shaft threads because I pounded it out with the sledge. I barely got the nut on with the 3/4" drive ratchet and snipe. Then it stripped as it almost seated. Who cares, old trailer park trash Brian dont care. The rust will hold it for now. After the long weekend, we will find a shop to figure it out.
On a good note, the stub shaft looked in great shape. The splines were all uniform and other than some rust, good shape.
To finish the day off, I filled the front diff and drained filled the rear . Easy enough.
My 2019 QX60 is at 146 k km (91k miles) and I decided to change the OEM serpentine belt and tensioner. The old belt looked great, no cracks or anything concerning. The old tensioner was a Litens brand and might have a bit of wobble in the bearing but it was still quiet.
New Continental belt, new Continental (Litens) tensioner went in. The job was much more challenging because of watching YT videos ahead that all showed doing the work from the bottom side, I tried that and my hands are too big to fit around the tensioner for bolt removal, so instead I removed the coolant overflow and did the balance of the work from the top of engine. I really wished I had this epiphany sooner! the work was much easier and my hands didn't get slaughtered. Glad this car will never need another belt in the time I likely own it. There, I said it.
New Continental belt, new Continental (Litens) tensioner went in. The job was much more challenging because of watching YT videos ahead that all showed doing the work from the bottom side, I tried that and my hands are too big to fit around the tensioner for bolt removal, so instead I removed the coolant overflow and did the balance of the work from the top of engine. I really wished I had this epiphany sooner! the work was much easier and my hands didn't get slaughtered. Glad this car will never need another belt in the time I likely own it. There, I said it.
2010 Tundra: was pulling right during braking. After a brief test drive with minimal braking, left front rotor was ~150F while right front was ~210F. Right front was also noticeably more difficult to rotate by hand.
No play in TREs, wheel bearing or ball joints, so I called it as sticky caliper.
Replaced RF caliper and hose. New pads from Import Direct (O'Reilly) and had both rotors turned.
Disabled seat belt chime per owner request. I'm ridding the world of Toyota seat belt chimes one vehicle at a time! It's important work
No play in TREs, wheel bearing or ball joints, so I called it as sticky caliper.
Replaced RF caliper and hose. New pads from Import Direct (O'Reilly) and had both rotors turned.
Disabled seat belt chime per owner request. I'm ridding the world of Toyota seat belt chimes one vehicle at a time! It's important work
Over the last few weeks:
Got the second lift installed in the shop.
2006 GMC Sierra got a full tune up, water pump, thermostat, heater and radiator hoses, new coolant and a vacuum extractor transmission fluid change. Oil change.
2010 Silverado got a junkyard 4L60 with new seals, filter, torque converter drain and fill, and a color matched junkyard passenger door
My 2004 F150 is getting a heater core replacement, I'm driving the 11 Silverado while it's apart.
Got the second lift installed in the shop.
2006 GMC Sierra got a full tune up, water pump, thermostat, heater and radiator hoses, new coolant and a vacuum extractor transmission fluid change. Oil change.
2010 Silverado got a junkyard 4L60 with new seals, filter, torque converter drain and fill, and a color matched junkyard passenger door
My 2004 F150 is getting a heater core replacement, I'm driving the 11 Silverado while it's apart.
This month's auction winnings, 2x Centec wheeled battery chargers, a Strongbox that is basically half the size of a dumpster. It needs a few welding repairs which i'll have a good time with. It has several abrasive cut off wheels inside. A 6 foot 3 point tractor blade, some metal stands, a heavy duty flat dolly, and a barely used Pacific Hydrostar gas trash pump (vintage harbor freight)
Oil change on the skidsteer with 8 quarts of Schaeffer 5w40 and a quart of 132 as well as a new Wix 51272 oil filter.
Then worked on my monitor bracket for my White 2-135 tractor. I mounted it the same as my other White tractor, drilled and tapped the ROPS(I know you’re not supposed to do this but I figure everyone that designed this is likely dead by now so engineering isn’t a concern) and bolted it in with two 3/8-24 bolts. I made both brackets with the same bolt centers so I can swap between tractors if needed. Got the RAM mount ball attached and monitor clamped on. Then I found close to period correct Royce CB radio and cleaned it up and installed it. Below the bracket will be a RAM mount for my phone and a 12v power outlet with a USB port. Pretty happy with the location of everything. For those that didn’t see the post from a few weeks ago, this started life as a broken forklift backrest that I cut some flat bar out of.
Then worked on my monitor bracket for my White 2-135 tractor. I mounted it the same as my other White tractor, drilled and tapped the ROPS(I know you’re not supposed to do this but I figure everyone that designed this is likely dead by now so engineering isn’t a concern) and bolted it in with two 3/8-24 bolts. I made both brackets with the same bolt centers so I can swap between tractors if needed. Got the RAM mount ball attached and monitor clamped on. Then I found close to period correct Royce CB radio and cleaned it up and installed it. Below the bracket will be a RAM mount for my phone and a 12v power outlet with a USB port. Pretty happy with the location of everything. For those that didn’t see the post from a few weeks ago, this started life as a broken forklift backrest that I cut some flat bar out of.
I was tasked with preparing this absolutely hammered '06 Ridgeline to be somewhat road ready
Only after I warned them, and got started, did they decide the poor Carfax and awful smell was too much to bear, and they're gonna just sell it and find a more viable prospect
I told them it was junk when it rolled up
Still got paid tho
It was an '06 RTL Leather/Nav, 255k (wound back to 166k), airbags blown, wrecked at least twice
Maybe they should take it in for the fuel tank strap recall, maybe Honda would buy it back
Keys, fuses, plug the horn in, 22 attempts at the radio code, radiator cap missing valve, B1 O² sensor, wiper blades, CAF, dipstick, there was a TSB for a PCM reflash, so I lived dangerously and did it on battery power in the parking lot
I swear every Honda that I work on needs keys
Lubed the latch for the under bed storage box, it was causing a battery drain
Same with the Magic Gate latch
Once I got remotes that worked and the horn plugged in, it was obvious those latches were intermittently setting the alarm off, causing a battery drain
Engine sounded decent, but it is what it is
Put a d/s axle in a '17 Optima
It no longer shakes your fillings out acceleration from 15mph
The owner was grateful, as it's only got 12 payments left, he wants it to last
A new Trakmotive (China) axle was procured, because the budget
130k on a factory axle in the city is not a terrible lifespan
Only after I warned them, and got started, did they decide the poor Carfax and awful smell was too much to bear, and they're gonna just sell it and find a more viable prospect
I told them it was junk when it rolled up
Still got paid tho
It was an '06 RTL Leather/Nav, 255k (wound back to 166k), airbags blown, wrecked at least twice
Maybe they should take it in for the fuel tank strap recall, maybe Honda would buy it back
Keys, fuses, plug the horn in, 22 attempts at the radio code, radiator cap missing valve, B1 O² sensor, wiper blades, CAF, dipstick, there was a TSB for a PCM reflash, so I lived dangerously and did it on battery power in the parking lot
I swear every Honda that I work on needs keys
Lubed the latch for the under bed storage box, it was causing a battery drain
Same with the Magic Gate latch
Once I got remotes that worked and the horn plugged in, it was obvious those latches were intermittently setting the alarm off, causing a battery drain
Engine sounded decent, but it is what it is
Put a d/s axle in a '17 Optima
It no longer shakes your fillings out acceleration from 15mph
The owner was grateful, as it's only got 12 payments left, he wants it to last
A new Trakmotive (China) axle was procured, because the budget
130k on a factory axle in the city is not a terrible lifespan
Installed a Trakmotive on the 92 GTI. I considered using Vaico ends to overhaul the original, but with well over 500K miles on the OEM, it was in fairly rough shape.I was tasked with preparing this absolutely hammered '06 Ridgeline to be somewhat road ready
Only after I warned them, and got started, did they decide the poor Carfax and awful smell was too much to bear, and they're gonna just sell it and find a more viable prospect
I told them it was junk when it rolled up
Still got paid tho
It was an '06 RTL Leather/Nav, 255k (wound back to 166k), airbags blown, wrecked at least twice
Maybe they should take it in for the fuel tank strap recall, maybe Honda would buy it back
Keys, fuses, plug the horn in, 22 attempts at the radio code, radiator cap missing valve, B1 O² sensor, wiper blades, CAF, dipstick, there was a TSB for a PCM reflash, so I lived dangerously and did it on battery power in the parking lot
View attachment 331432
View attachment 331433
View attachment 331435
View attachment 331434
I swear every Honda that I work on needs keys
View attachment 331436
Lubed the latch for the under bed storage box, it was causing a battery drain
Same with the Magic Gate latch
Once I got remotes that worked and the horn plugged in, it was obvious those latches were intermittently setting the alarm off, causing a battery drain
View attachment 331437
Engine sounded decent, but it is what it is
Put a d/s axle in a '17 Optima
It no longer shakes your fillings out acceleration from 15mph
The owner was grateful, as it's only got 12 payments left, he wants it to last
A new Trakmotive (China) axle was procured, because the budget
130k on a factory axle in the city is not a terrible lifespan
View attachment 331438
My neighbor bought a '16 Forester for himself with 103k freedom. It was owned by a non-profit and I don't think they did anything but oil changes. Thus it got
-front diff svc
-rear diff svc
-transmission svc w Transmax
-new rear pads and rotors
-new air filter
-new spark plugs
-engine oil change
This was the first time I've seen this Subaru and I swear I found what I see on every Subaru -- EVERY. SINGLE. TIME:
^if you know, you know
The Mad Max '15 Forester happened to roll in for summer wheels/tires and an oil change. Thus I got to take a shot of Mad Max Forester next to bone stock Forester. Simple minds, simple pleasures
-front diff svc
-rear diff svc
-transmission svc w Transmax
-new rear pads and rotors
-new air filter
-new spark plugs
-engine oil change
This was the first time I've seen this Subaru and I swear I found what I see on every Subaru -- EVERY. SINGLE. TIME:
^if you know, you know
The Mad Max '15 Forester happened to roll in for summer wheels/tires and an oil change. Thus I got to take a shot of Mad Max Forester next to bone stock Forester. Simple minds, simple pleasures
Just ate dinner... Going to go out and swap Mom's snow tires out. She was pleased with how Michelin X-Ice snow tires worked with her Forester.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
I don't' know. What's with the stud?
Decided I’ll keep the 1/2” compensating front lift on the Tacoma. It’s settled to oem height. Added 1/8 diamond plate on top of the bedrack as a minor rain shield for bed contents while also serving as a good upper platform for odd objects. I really like having the full roof rack on the small-bed truck. Mowed the weeds. Drove all over town to find odd screws, loan the pressure washer to a friend, and run some errands. Got to use the new hoist to lift the rather heavy PW into the truck. These cheap consumer grade lifting straps really have to be treated delicately to avoid tears. They may hold a thousand pounds but they easily snag/tear on things that shouldn’t snag or tear them, like good D-rings. Worked on four “clocks” (dashboard eBay scores, wooden box, get the clock and backlights working and perhaps they’ll make good holiday presents!)
I need to wash the Tacoma. I tried carlperl tire treatment and it flung to the sides of the car and then soaked in over the week. No pants are safe when walking by.
I need to wash the Tacoma. I tried carlperl tire treatment and it flung to the sides of the car and then soaked in over the week. No pants are safe when walking by.
Imma bet a wheel was loose.
Got some work done on the S60. New liners, new rings, reused pistons. new rod bearings. Bottom end all together, oil pan on. All 38 head bolt holes cleaned out with a tap. Head will be done tomorrow morning so I’ll be back at it, but with limited time tomorrow. Tough because this truck is almost an hour from home.
2007 Mazda CX9:
-complaint was clunking noise after starting. Just the a/c compressor as best I can tell
-engine oil change
-front brakes squealing. I actually pulled the pads and sanded them on my belt sander (wearing respirator). This seems to have cured it. I also found this heavy flakey rust ring on one rotor, and only the inner circumference. Odd because we don't typically see this here. I could scrape it off easily with my pocket knife:
Then went to my non-profit to cut a dead tree. Got to visit The Kraken afterward, rescues from atrocious conditions in Ohio
They grew up in our basement since before they could walk and were psyched to see me. Here sister attacks brother in play
A nice break from brakes
-complaint was clunking noise after starting. Just the a/c compressor as best I can tell
-engine oil change
-front brakes squealing. I actually pulled the pads and sanded them on my belt sander (wearing respirator). This seems to have cured it. I also found this heavy flakey rust ring on one rotor, and only the inner circumference. Odd because we don't typically see this here. I could scrape it off easily with my pocket knife:
Then went to my non-profit to cut a dead tree. Got to visit The Kraken afterward, rescues from atrocious conditions in Ohio
They grew up in our basement since before they could walk and were psyched to see me. Here sister attacks brother in play
A nice break from brakes
Got the head painted and installed. Camshaft in and checked drive gear backlash. Cam access cover back installed. Injectors in and rocker shafts on and ready to run the overhead tomorrow. If I get a full day tomorrow might be able to get it going. Could only get there for about 4 hours today
Finished my neighbor's '16 Forester 2.5 and took it out to bed the rear brakes. Stops really nicely with O'Reilly basic ceramic pads, runs great with basic NGK 93501 plugs, and another TR580 that seems happy on Castrol Transmax.
Oh also disconnected the single wire at the key switch so it can't "keep" the key -- very common failure on this era of Subaru.
Oh also disconnected the single wire at the key switch so it can't "keep" the key -- very common failure on this era of Subaru.