What are you working on today?

2019 Rogue: engine oil change
2024 Forester: engine oil change

Took the Bambi Ranger to the car wash then dropped it at my paint guy. He quoted $760 to paint the hood, fender, bumper cover and front header under the headlights, which is a steal.
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Then swung by a guy's place where he's had his '96 Ram 1500 sitting for six months. It initially had some sort of problem causing it to not run -- after all this time details get lost and it's like the telephone game. He went full DIY ape on it doing fuel pump, numerous relays and fuses, lots of ignition components, CKP and God knows what else.

After all that it still wouldn't fire so I took some diagnostic basics. We heard the fuel pump but I screwed my gauge on for giggles (remember when fuel rails had a Schrader valve for easy diag??) and ZERO. Verified it would run on starting fluid.

I looked at fuel gauge: E. He insisted there was "some" fuel in there when he did the fuel pump. I told him there's either not enough fuel to prime or the pump is running but not building pressure.

We added 3 gallons and it started right up. It sat 6 months because he never thought to add fuel. :rolleyes:
 
Just a couple better pictures of the F250 I drug home. Took some time this evening to look at what I’ll need to rig up an external fuel tank and pump to bypass everything on it and try to start it. I pulled the fuel filter and the fuel in it was the consistency of ATF and smelled more like kerosene. I’m hoping that pushing some clean fuel and a heavy dose of cleaner through the pump and injectors will save them.

Didn’t unload it today as I was by myself and the rear brakes are completely locked up. Getting it off the trailer is a problem for another day

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Creekside said:
Just a couple better pictures of the F250 I drug home. Took some time this evening to look at what I’ll need to rig up an external fuel tank and pump to bypass everything on it and try to start it. I pulled the fuel filter and the fuel in it was the consistency of ATF and smelled more like kerosene. I’m hoping that pushing some clean fuel and a heavy dose of cleaner through the pump and injectors will save them.

Didn’t unload it today as I was by myself and the rear brakes are completely locked up. Getting it off the trailer is a problem for another day

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I'd love to pick up like a '96 with the 7.3L diesel, was a great combo. The later Super Duties had better interiors though, and were also good looking trucks.
 
Creekside said:
Just a couple better pictures of the F250 I drug home. Took some time this evening to look at what I’ll need to rig up an external fuel tank and pump to bypass everything on it and try to start it. I pulled the fuel filter and the fuel in it was the consistency of ATF and smelled more like kerosene. I’m hoping that pushing some clean fuel and a heavy dose of cleaner through the pump and injectors will save them.

Didn’t unload it today as I was by myself and the rear brakes are completely locked up. Getting it off the trailer is a problem for another day

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I love the brick nose and later but I cannot stand '80-86 interior/dash or front clip.

Still, glad you found something you like.
 
D60 said:
Then swung by a guy's place where he's had his '96 Ram 1500 sitting for six months. It initially had some sort of problem causing it to not run -- after all this time details get lost and it's like the telephone game. He went full DIY ape on it doing fuel pump, numerous relays and fuses, lots of ignition components, CKP and God knows what else.

After all that it still wouldn't fire so I took some diagnostic basics. We heard the fuel pump but I screwed my gauge on for giggles (remember when fuel rails had a Schrader valve for easy diag??) and ZERO. Verified it would run on starting fluid.

I looked at fuel gauge: E. He insisted there was "some" fuel in there when he did the fuel pump. I told him there's either not enough fuel to prime or the pump is running but not building pressure.

We added 3 gallons and it started right up. It sat 6 months because he never thought to add fuel. :rolleyes:
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On the one hand, I do realize that not everyone is "mechanically proficient" but on the other hand.......well, I used to weep for Humanity, but nowdays I pretty much just shake my head due to the fact that over my many years on this mortal coil, I have noticed a very distinct "repositioning" (downwards slide) of the "average" citizens position on the Bell Curve....... Uh oh, my cynicism is attempting to get out...."Get Back In Yer Cage! Where is that rolled up newspaper? DANGIT!!!
 
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clinebarger said:
Worked on my own ride for a change, Installing a Next Gen valve body kit in my 2019 Yukon/Gen 1 10L80.

Also getting a PPE aluminum transmission pan, Shocks, Struts, Oil Change & Differential service.
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First, I have kept an eye on Next Gen and I really like what I see. I believe that you are in very good hands. Do let us know how your rig likes the valve body upgrades.
Second, DANG! I am thankful that I just stayed with the 3-speed automatics!!! (although I just tore down that 4L60E core that I snagged for my 93 K1500. I took photos and will post what I found. It has been "rebuilt" at least once, and I was NOT impressed with what I have found so far. "Oh My Gawd" comes to mind along with the dreaded double face palm.......................:eek:
 
This weekend I helped my buddy button up an engine swap on a 2009 Nissan Altima. He'd already gotten the heavy lifting done so it was mostly reconnecting wiring, hoses and fuel lines. Customer picked it up last night.

Yesterday at work I finished drilling stainless, made 8 seat spacers, then spent the rest of the day aligning the tailstock on my lathe. I'd never done this before, but after about an hour, a dial indicator and a dead blow I was able to get less than half a thou across the surface of my ground bar across the top and across the side. Test cutting another bar yielded a consistent measurement of 1.456" across the cut surface. At its worst, which was why I did this in the first place, the machine was cutting a taper of as much as .008" 😬 it was very satisfying to get this resolved. Now I've just got to recheck the runout in the drill chuck to see if it's actually out or if it was drilling off because of the tailstock.
 
My buddy brought his '93 Dakota over. It's a basket case and being OBD1 not entirely easy to troubleshoot.

He insisted the exhaust was plugged up, but I started and revved it and was not convinced. I went along because I didn't feel like being in charge of the escapade and I'm not getting paid on this one. So, he can make the call and be wrong (or right but he's usually a terrible diagnostician).

Fortunately we could easily loosen a clamp at the muffler aft of the cat and indeed he was correct! A wee bit of honeycomb at the muffler inlet:
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He had purchased a short section of 3" pipe but it really needed to be flared at both ends. Pretty sure my cheap expander won't do 3" reliably so I had to butt weld new 3" to old 3". If we ignore the fact my short beads don't like up, it could be worse
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D60 said:
My buddy brought his '93 Dakota over. It's a basket case and being OBD1 not entirely easy to troubleshoot.

He insisted the exhaust was plugged up, but I started and revved it and was not convinced. I went along because I didn't feel like being in charge of the escapade and I'm not getting paid on this one. So, he can make the call and be wrong (or right but he's usually a terrible diagnostician).

Fortunately we could easily loosen a clamp at the muffler aft of the cat and indeed he was correct! A wee bit of honeycomb at the muffler inlet:
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Mmmmm, "Dried Converter Chunks In A Can" YUM! I just had to fabricate a "Converter Test Pipe" for my original, 1993 K1500, GM Pellet Bed Converter. The old girls "vigor" increased exponentially with the test pipe. The noise increased as wall, far, FAR more than I was "comfortable" due to the back of the muffler having parted company during a hissy fit. I then replaced everything from test pipe to tail pipe, stupidly forgetting to install a new cat. Oops, my bad. :rolleyes: And now, the original, 36 year old "Y Pipe has gone the way of the DoDo and is attempting to fumigate my a$$. There are times that you just cannot win..................
 
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A guy I help brought his '82 square body over. It's got a 4" lift and he needed rear shocks. I bought him some shocks because the whole family is well below the poverty level and he hauls 425 gal of water in the rear.
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When I went looking, the price of shocks for a square body with a lift is ridiculous. I figured there had to be an alternative, and as usual the internet came through: '99-04 SuperDuty shocks for stock height work great.
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I got him FCS because I want to help, but only so much. His old shocks were ROASTED so anything stronger than a limp noodle is a huge improvement.

Of course a rear upper stud snapped. These have been welded in place by a PO, so I just welded on some more threaded rod to give us room to snug a nut. These single-shear shock mounts always struck me as a bad design.
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Then I put a new thermostat in a '15 Journey Pentastar with a P0128
 
I changed the transmission fluid in my recently acquired 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I'm a retired semi driver that still drives a truck 1 day a week and started running 330 miles one day a week in this car to pick up samples at a food production facility and take them to a lab. I still love to tinker with cars. I help a few friends with brake jobs and oil changes.
 
D60 said:
A guy I help brought his '82 square body over. It's got a 4" lift and he needed rear shocks. I bought him some shocks because the whole family is well below the poverty level and he hauls 425 gal of water in the rear.

When I went looking, the price of shocks for a square body with a lift is ridiculous. I figured there had to be an alternative, and as usual the internet came through: '99-04 SuperDuty shocks for stock height work great.

I got him FCS because I want to help, but only so much. His old shocks were ROASTED so anything stronger than a limp noodle is a huge improvement.

Of course a rear upper stud snapped. These have been welded in place by a PO, so I just welded on some more threaded rod to give us room to snug a nut. These single-shear shock mounts always struck me as a bad design.

Then I put a new thermostat in a '15 Journey Pentastar with a P0128
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You Sir, ARE a TRUE KNIGHT. From the bottom of my heart I thank you for helping that entire family!! So many people are falling through the cracks in our society that it is quite simply, obscene. And yet, so many people either do not see it, or are ambivalent to what they DO see. He does have a stout truck with which to haul his water though! except for possibly the frame behind the steering box. Has that area been checked closely for cracks?
 
While clearing brush in preparation to replace a 30 year old water line that was damaged in the hard freeze a few weeks ago, I broke a hydraulic fitting on the front end loader. It turns out to have been a terrible design (pressed in vs welded) in the first place. Taking advantage of the situation to upgrade all 4 cylinders and the hydraulic pump that is supposed to make the tractor much more capable and smooth operating. I will also meditate if there is any armor I can add to the loader to protect the lines. Making preparations this Saturday for the upgrades, its supposed to rain most of the day.

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Got my oil changed -Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30. Drain and fill the transmission with Toyota fluid for winter snow weather driving heating up that transmission fluid for sure. Got two new A/T tires up front after finding one front tire slashed in two spots. Replaced the air filter with a WIX. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Ran 1 bottle of AMSOIL Gasoline P.i. and 1 bottle of AMSOIL Upper Cylinder Lubricant.
The car is running so well, I change the transmission fluid every 30k miles. The preventive maintenance feels good. On my way to 500k miles plus some. 😬 At least I'm trying to get there anyway.
 
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