What are you working on today?

[tbm3fan]

First rear brake job on the 2004 Focus at 208,000 miles. Strange how Ford manual wants you to remove four bolts behind the backing plate to remove drum and spindle as an assembly. No mention of removing the drum if you wanted to replace it so no info on a torque value for the drum. Passenger side went fine while driver's side had a leaky cylinder. Now I had to call around for one as I had everything except a spare wheel cylinder. Shoes were NOS Ford as originals lasted so why change. Also re-used springs as the generic springs fit poorly. This Wednesday the manual transmission fluid and then the tie rods on the 91 626.

 

[zhaarnak02]

Because I like to overcomplicate things (hmm, maybe I should be an engineer), I grabbed an old drain plug which I think came from a Duramax and found an M14x1.5 flange nut. I machined a 1/4" groove in the nut so the fluid can drain relatively completely:

Great Thinking! I am going to perform your modification on my 4L60E pan ASAP. (Your idea is not "overcomplicating", it is the "6-P" method. Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance"

 

[D60]

Great Thinking! I am going to perform your modification on my 4L60E pan ASAP. (Your idea is not "overcomplicating", it is the "6-P" method. Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance"

A castle nut is the easier solution, although I was concerned about Z-space and castle nuts tend to be tall. As it was I faced down my basic flange nut, but that wound up proving unnecessary as I had plenty of space where I chose, kinda between the inner spin-on filter and dipstick tube (obviously a 4L60 would be different)

Forgot to mention: Mopar guys, I stumbled on this site which also gives you pinouts for connectors, although I have to imagine it's not as accurate as a dedicated wiring diagram
https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.com/

 

[D60]

First rear brake job on the 2004 Focus at 208,000 miles. Strange how Ford manual wants you to remove four bolts behind the backing plate to remove drum and spindle as an assembly. No mention of removing the drum if you wanted to replace it so no info on a torque value for the drum. Passenger side went fine while driver's side had a leaky cylinder. Now I had to call around for one as I had everything except a spare wheel cylinder. Shoes were NOS Ford as originals lasted so why change. Also re-used springs as the generic springs fit poorly. This Wednesday the manual transmission fluid and then the tie rods on the 91 626.

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When I did an '09, Ford was all over the map with something: an additional seal or a baffle or a spacer washer ‐‐ can't remember. Whatever it was, some got it and some didn't, with seemingly no rhyme or reason.

Basically, put it back together as it came apart and ignore any mention of parts you don't have

 

[crashz]

Oil change, front diff fluid change, and checked alignment with my little rig on my 2014 F250. Clearly changed before because somebody goobered the RTV all over. Used a whole tube I think. But it leaked anyway. I replaced the cover with a Dorman unit (seems OK) and a LubeLocker gasket.

Pay no mind to the dirt in the cover. The truck was filthy and pooping giant slush turds on me as I worked. None got in the diff as I was careful and protected it, but pulling the cover out was another story.

Still chasing a light grinding noise like the tires are grumbling or something. Tonight I'm going to lift up all four corners, spin all the wheels to feel for drag, check the front unit bearings again (maybe the new NAPA one is bad?) and rotate the tires.

 

[michaelluscher]

I wanted to see of key/transponder programming is supported with this old equipment. My old Toyota handheld tester (Vetronics) wouldn't turn on. Pulled the battery pack out and removed the its cover. The old NiCD batteries had leaked - bad.

Prying the batteries out, one of the contacts had broken off. Thought about a repair for a few days. The results follow.

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Removed the contact; flattened out the bent portion with a flat punch/hammer, and a flat blade screwdriver as an anvil.

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Hobby battery pack sacrificed a contact spring.

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Pressed trimmed contact and spring into place. Solder spring to contact? Future upgrade.

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Voltage present? Old batteries from my R/C racing days. Weak but there...not bad for 27 year old batteries. New NiMH batteries on the way.

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Success!

Top work
I've refurbished several Mastertechs, Amazon NiMH and a fresh 2032 coin cell have fixed every one

Depending on what kind of key you want to program, support ran out around ~MY07 (they recommend Techstream) for more complicated/Smart keys

Older stuff it's still gold

 

[D60]

Oil change, front diff fluid change, and checked alignment with my little rig on my 2014 F250. Clearly changed before because somebody goobered the RTV all over. Used a whole tube I think. But it leaked anyway. I replaced the cover with a Dorman unit (seems OK) and a LubeLocker gasket.
View attachment 322759

Pay no mind to the dirt in the cover. The truck was filthy and pooping giant slush turds on me as I worked. None got in the diff as I was careful and protected it, but pulling the cover out was another story.

Still chasing a light grinding noise like the tires are grumbling or something. Tonight I'm going to lift up all four corners, spin all the wheels to feel for drag, check the front unit bearings again (maybe the new NAPA one is bad?) and rotate the tires.

How are the front axle u-joints? I also ditched the stupid axle tube intrusion catchers, er I mean seals, on my '11. But they'll make a "ting" sound when they fall out and go for a ride on the shaft

 

[crashz]

How are the front axle u-joints? I also ditched the stupid axle tube intrusion catchers, er I mean seals, on my '11. But they'll make a "ting" sound when they fall out and go for a ride on the shaft

Thanks D60! U joints are decent. Tight but still take grease and spin/turn freely. I'll look at the those seals, maybe that's the noise. Noticeable from 30-60 mph, then its either drown out by road noise or gone. One thing I notice is that weather its in 4wd or if the hubs are locked or not, the noise is the same. Verified that the hubs are unlocking fully.

I'm sort of thinking its the tires as I've had balance issues and smoothness issues in the past. But to look at them, they are wearing very evenly. Even front to back the tire wear is the same.

 

[D60]

Thanks D60! U joints are decent. Tight but still take grease and spin/turn freely. I'll look at the those seals, maybe that's the noise. Noticeable from 30-60 mph, then its either drown out by road noise or gone. One thing I notice is that weather its in 4wd or if the hubs are locked or not, the noise is the same. Verified that the hubs are unlocking fully.

I'm sort of thinking its the tires as I've had balance issues and smoothness issues in the past. But to look at them, they are wearing very evenly. Even front to back the tire wear is the same.

Hmm yeah if lockouts don't change it it's wheel bearings, brakes or tires most likely.

The front double cardan can get sloppy but again, lockouts would isolate that. When I needed to rebuild my front CV I took the lazy route and ordered a new OEM shaft from Quirk for $250 (pre-Covid, no idea on pricing now). Useless trivia -- this isn't your noise.

 

[D60]

So when the 68RFE solenoid thing went down, I actually ordered a Wells from RA. I paid overnight FedEx, but I think the ice storms screwed me. I got it about 5 days later, and had to buy the Standard at O'Reilly because they had it on the shelf (this tells you how often these fail, to stock a part they sell for ~$600 in basically every store).

ANYWAY, I opened the RA package today to start a return and was surprised to see the Wells is hecho en Los Estados Unidos. But the Standard is Made in China. Interesting -- I wonder who and where is manufacturing these in our borders? @clinebarger

 

[BrianF]

I began cleaning up the old rusty today. This is the 2005 powder blue Grand Caravan that my folks bought new and we have had since 2021....?? It has 285,000km on it and it has sat pretty much unused for close to 2 years. Time to go. Gave it a once over, vacuum, wipe down of the plastics and aired up the tires. She has a host of trivial and not so trivial problems, neither of which I care to deal with. But... it runs and drives great.

 

[Kennedy01]

Currently trying to diagnose a bad drill chuck attachment for our lathe... My center drill marks aren't centered and my part is wobbly. Supervisor already made tailstock adjustments. Also clearance bored some Super Duty steering knuckles and machined some material off a pinion for fitment

 

[cptbarkey]

Project RTV 900 is finished. It runs excellent and did great on a long offroad test drive. Need to do HST maintenance with fluid and filters, the front axle, differentials, brake fluid. Nearly everything works, aux lights, winch, windshield wipers, except the AC and old stereo. I'm probably not bothering with either. The heater blower motor has some crunchies in it.

I'm thinking over expanding the dump bed (not yet reinstalled) a good 12 inches for more capacity and weld in reinforcement.

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Ticking off the maintenance items, today new OEM Kubota HST filters and 10 quarts of MAG1 THF fluid at 1038 hours. I don’t believe it was ever serviced. After a test drive it made a huge improvement in responsiveness with the transmission. There was a little gunk on the drain plug but not an alarming amount.

 

[wings&wheels]

It's 14dg and the weather feed says "Feels colder"....good evening for this;

 

[The Critic]

Neighbor’s beater 2014 Forester with 145k…the one that I have done way too much free work on.

His LF headlight’s low-beam bulb burned out. Due to the lens condition, he requested a complete headlamp assembly.

I installed a CAPA certified TYC headlamp. Since the front bumper was removed, he also approved replacement of the washer fluid reservoir due to a failed level sensor.

During inspection I found a leaking CVT oil pump chain cover or input shaft seal. This one also has all of the usual FB25 oil leaks. I think it’s time for the engine to be removed for a full reseal, but unfortunately, the cost of these repairs probably exceeds the value of the vehicle.

 

[zhaarnak02]

Oil change, front diff fluid change, and checked alignment with my little rig on my 2014 F250. Clearly changed before because somebody goobered the RTV all over. Used a whole tube I think. But it leaked anyway. I replaced the cover with a Dorman unit (seems OK) and a LubeLocker gasket.

Pay no mind to the dirt in the cover. The truck was filthy and pooping giant slush turds on me as I worked. None got in the diff as I was careful and protected it, but pulling the cover out was another story.

Still chasing a light grinding noise like the tires are grumbling or something. Tonight I'm going to lift up all four corners, spin all the wheels to feel for drag, check the front unit bearings again (maybe the new NAPA one is bad?) and rotate the tires.

Ahh, Slush Turds. Almost prescient in their ability to wait, and calculate the absolute best angle to hit you and ruin your day.

 

[zhaarnak02]

A castle nut is the easier solution, although I was concerned about Z-space and castle nuts tend to be tall. As it was I faced down my basic flange nut, but that wound up proving unnecessary as I had plenty of space where I chose, kinda between the inner spin-on filter and dipstick tube (obviously a 4L60 would be different)

There is a tad bit more room in a 4L60 pan, although, instead of grinding the groove like you did I may see how drilling a small hole in each "flat" of the hex looks for sh..s and giggles. Just need to come up with an unplated, steel flange nut. Maybe a Dorman 611-295. To the Man Cave!!

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Made wife very happy. I actually cleaned up and straightened out my messy "man cave." I had really let it go and it was looking like a bomb had gone off in there. I spent 3-4 hours in there today cleaning and throwing stuff away. At least I can roll my chair around again.

 

[clinebarger]

So when the 68RFE solenoid thing went down, I actually ordered a Wells from RA. I paid overnight FedEx, but I think the ice storms screwed me. I got it about 5 days later, and had to buy the Standard at O'Reilly because they had it on the shelf (this tells you how often these fail, to stock a part they sell for ~$600 in basically every store).

ANYWAY, I opened the RA package today to start a return and was surprised to see the Wells is hecho en Los Estados Unidos. But the Standard is Made in China. Interesting -- I wonder who and where is manufacturing these in our borders? @clinebarger

Not sure, But I've seen issues with aftermarket solenoid packs & more often than not replace them with Sonnax remans......Not that they're all bad or I have hard data.

 

[zhaarnak02]

Ahh, Slush Turds. Almost prescient in their ability to wait, and calculate the absolute best angle to hit you and ruin your day.

What I really enjoy is when a "Slush Turd" manages to hit me between my forehead and my eyeglasses.