What are you working on today?

[D60]

P0750 in 2014 68RFE. Ran some basics, everything pointed to the solenoid. All I could get was the Standard solenoid pack which was around $565 even commercial (O'Reilly). I see RA sells a Wells for a couple hundred less. For future reference, I wonder if @clinebarger has any thoughts on Standard vs Wells? The cynic in me thinks they're probably comparable, but I have no evidence to support this.

I know the valve body should be replaced, but this guy is crying broke. It needed to be just operational again at minimum expense. Now that I think about it, P0870 is probably right around the corner and I'll look guilty. 190k on the unit.

Because I like to overcomplicate things (hmm, maybe I should be an engineer), I grabbed an old drain plug which I think came from a Duramax and found an M14x1.5 flange nut. I machined a 1/4" groove in the nut so the fluid can drain relatively completely:

As viewed from the outside, and yeah, I got a little hot with the pan sheetmetal!:

Installed. I engraved the thread pitch in the pan in case this starts to leak and I later need to try a different drain plug. I always doubt my custom work until it's proven itself. Here, rust isn't a concern but I later hit the pan with rattle can:

His passenger interior door handle had also failed. Chrysler's interior was so piss poor during this era as I've already repaired the driver armrest/door pull which was 101 pieces of broken plastic. Well, here the handle itself was fine but a pivot tab had broken off the ginormous interior-interior plastic door panel <---technical term. What's better than one crappy plastic panel? A second crappy plastic panel under that!!

I tried epoxy and hot staples, but it's just not really repairable short of actual plastic welding, and even that is questionable. If anyone is aware of any entrepreneurial/Etsy type kits to fix this, please LMK!

 

[BrianF]

My friend picked up the sled today and drove it home. I asked how it ran and he said "Great, until I hit a massive snow bank and took 15 minutes to dig out."

 

[The Critic]

2022 Tundra gas, 31.5K.

Replaced Engine Oil and Filter
Drain and Refill ATF. Used idle speed control mode and adjusted the fluid level at 99F.

 

[paulo57509]

Took the LS430 to Lexus of Pleasanton Service Center on Thursday morning because I don't have the means to match a (factory) replacement master key transmitter to the vehicle's security transponder. I also had the oil/filter changed out of convenience.

Standard intake procedure was completed; repair order written, visual and mechanical inspection is performed while I wait in the plush waiting area; complimentary Peet's coffee, snacks, and a comfy sofa that I could have easily taken a nap on.

The service writer comes back and hands me the inspection report and estimate (below) for repairs of what they found (maybe they want me to buy a new car) . I glanced at it briefly, but internally =

Even though I was sent a video of their inspection findings, I need to do a once over myself. Unless it's just age related wear, it's kind of crazy for a low mileage vehicle. Needless to say, I can do this work in my garage, except for the alignment.

• Replace drive belt
• Brake fluid exchange
• Drain/Fill ATF
• Drain/Fill differential
• Drain/Fill cooling system
• Dump fuel system cleaner in tank
• Front struts (boots torn)
• Rear struts (LH leaking - I was wondering why the rear tire appears to have +camber)
• Wheel alignment
• Battery R&R (CCA border line CCA)

I do have to take the car back next week; they weren't able to match the key to the transponder; their current tools aren't communicating with the vehicle. I had a suspicion that they would have difficulties with this. I scheduled to being the car back next week, and they arranged for a loaner in case they need to keep the car. Meantime, I want to see if my old Toyota (Vertronix) scan tool will do the key matching.
View attachment 322335

I took a closer look at the insane estimate. They incorrectly quoted struts for a vehicle equipped with active air suspension, which my LS430 doesn't have. When I was shopping for a replacement for my LS400, this was the one option that was a hard pass - front & rear pneumatic struts are $2,500/each. Standard struts are ~$300/each; not great but still no where near calloused ankle territory.

 

[Kennedy01]

P0750 in 2014 68RFE. Ran some basics, everything pointed to the solenoid. All I could get was the Standard solenoid pack which was around $565 even commercial (O'Reilly). I see RA sells a Wells for a couple hundred less. For future reference, I wonder if @clinebarger has any thoughts on Standard vs Wells? The cynic in me thinks they're probably comparable, but I have no evidence to support this.

I know the valve body should be replaced, but this guy is crying broke. It needed to be just operational again at minimum expense. Now that I think about it, P0870 is probably right around the corner and I'll look guilty. 190k on the unit.View attachment 322446

Because I like to overcomplicate things (hmm, maybe I should be an engineer), I grabbed an old drain plug which I think came from a Duramax and found an M14x1.5 flange nut. I machined a 1/4" groove in the nut so the fluid can drain relatively completely:View attachment 322447

As viewed from the outside, and yeah, I got a little hot with the pan sheetmetal!:
View attachment 322448
Installed. I engraved the thread pitch in the pan in case this starts to leak and I later need to try a different drain plug. I always doubt my custom white trash work until it's proven itself. Here, rust isn't a concern but I later hit the pan with rattle can:View attachment 322449

His passenger interior door handle had also failed. Chrysler's interior was so piss poor during this era as I've already repaired the driver armrest/door pull which was 101 pieces of broken plastic. Well, here the handle itself was fine but a pivot tab had broken off the ginormous interior-interior plastic door panel <---technical term. What's better than one crappy plastic panel? A second crappy plastic panel under that!!

I tried epoxy and hot staples, but it's just not really repairable short of actual plastic welding, and even that is questionable. If anyone is aware of any entrepreneurial/Etsy type kits to fix this, please LMK!View attachment 322450

My response to you was removed so if you didn't get to read it, I simply said basically I like your repairs and have found your repairs and modifications helpful.

 

[D60]

I took a closer look at the insane estimate. They incorrectly quoted struts for a vehicle equipped with active air suspension, which my LS430 doesn't have. When I was shopping for a replacement for my LS400, this was the one option that was a hard pass - front & rear pneumatic struts are $2,500/each. Standard struts are ~$300/each; not great but still no where near calloused ankle territory.

Smart move! My former FIL had an AllRoad and there's a cottage industry around aftermarket airbags that are more affordable than OEM. Or at least, there was -- not sure how many are still on the road. Audis seem oddly like "disposable luxury" cars.....at least here in the States

edit: also disturbing that a dealer -- who should be referencing parts by VIN -- couldn't catch something major like this??

 

[D60]

My response to you was removed so if you didn't get to read it, I simply said basically I like your repairs and have found your repairs and modifications helpful.

I did see it and thank you. I don't meddle in the affairs of dragons or mods for I am crunchy and taste good with ketchup

ANYWAY....what I'm working on today....just picked up cheap on-sale Traveller oil from TSC thanks to fka eljefino and now I need to start tearing into an '04 Ranger that hit Bambi

Somehow I always feel worse for the animal when they leave fur behind:

Fortunately I have a donor in good shape, and the PO even provided new-in-box CAPA cert headlamps from RA that he bought before the transmission quit! I gave $1500 for the donor and all the individual parts were gonna cost me at least that

 

[Tomioka]

Co-workers 08 F-150 4.6L for an A/C compressor replacement.
YT vids show having to remove the fan and fan shroud to get to the top of the compressor lines.
Most of the work can be done by raising the front and removing the pass. side tire. Just disconnect any wiring in the way, remove the 3 10mm looong bolts to lower the compressor, then unbolt the two lines from the top.
While under the truck, saw the lower ball joints with its boots gone so I've put Motorcraft LBJ's on order for next week's job.

 

[wander2039]

Changed the flush valve on one toilet and filled taxes.. the irony..

 

[ripcord]

Changed the flush valve on one toilet and filled taxes.. the irony..

Hopefully you don't have to replace that new valve before you can toss the records

 

[clinebarger]

P0750 in 2014 68RFE. Ran some basics, everything pointed to the solenoid. All I could get was the Standard solenoid pack which was around $565 even commercial (O'Reilly). I see RA sells a Wells for a couple hundred less. For future reference, I wonder if @clinebarger has any thoughts on Standard vs Wells? The cynic in me thinks they're probably comparable, but I have no evidence to support this.

I know the valve body should be replaced, but this guy is crying broke. It needed to be just operational again at minimum expense. Now that I think about it, P0870 is probably right around the corner and I'll look guilty. 190k on the unit.View attachment 322446

I get them new from Mopar or a Reman from Sonnax (Through WIT)

Might want to consider doing the Solenoid Switch Valves anytime you are doing a solenoid pack.
Kit's HERE Once you have the tooling for both sizes....You can just order refills.

 

[KE7JFF]

So, on that $750 Subaru I bought, I did end up replacing the alternator. I found out a guy parting out from a 2003 Forester which has the bigger 110A alternator which he sold to me for $25.00. All I had to do was change over the harness plug, which turns out, was sold at AutoZone for 6.99. It otherwise just drops right in. Did that and I noticed the old alternator was a recent rebuild. Took it to this time to O'Reilly to test it and it somehow passes but the counter guy said he noticed the pulley is a hair loose so it slips when moving. I fixed the pulley and threw it on Facebook Marketplace for $25.00 to pass on the karma.

The smell is 95% better from the PO's giant Great Dane. The front seats have these fluffy shag covers over them, so I pulled them off as I noticed the smell was embedded in them. Under those, was pristine factory seats! I sat in them without the covers and actually, they felt better than the fluffy covers. So, I put the seat covers in a bag and maybe I'll wash them later. And now, the smell is 100% gone!

I also installed my ham radio gear into the Legacy; that was easy part!

 

[D60]

I get them new from Mopar or a Reman from Sonnax (Through WIT)

Might want to consider doing the Solenoid Switch Valves anytime you are doing a solenoid pack.
Kit's HERE Once you have the tooling for both sizes....You can just order refills.

Just watched Transgo's vid. Never seen that before -- VERY cool!!

 

[paulo57509]

I wanted to see of key/transponder programming is supported with this old equipment. My old Toyota handheld tester (Vetronics) wouldn't turn on. Pulled the battery pack out and removed the its cover. The old NiCD batteries had leaked - bad.

Prying the batteries out, one of the contacts had broken off. Thought about a repair for a few days. The results follow.

Removed the contact; flattened out the bent portion with a flat punch/hammer, and a flat blade screwdriver as an anvil.

Hobby battery pack sacrificed a contact spring.

Pressed trimmed contact and spring into place. Solder spring to contact? Future upgrade.

Voltage present? Old batteries from my R/C racing days. Weak but there...not bad for 27 year old batteries. New NiMH batteries on the way.

Success!

 

[clinebarger]

Just watched Transgo's vid. Never seen that before -- VERY cool!!

142 Mineral Spirits/Solvent works just as good or better than WD-40, The more volume the better to clear the chips as I'm sure you know

The 5 Accumulators & the bracket that holds them in & the Channel Plate are really the only other valve body wear/failure points.

 

[BrianF]

Nothing mechanical yet. Cleared snow with the 318G, jockeyed horse trailers and our infinite fleet of vehicles around. The dealer called and our Jeep GC is ready to be picked up, apparently needed an update.

Now my daughters new bf is here and hanging out. Seems like a nice kid.....

 

[paulo57509]

I wanted to see of key/transponder programming is supported with this old equipment. My old Toyota handheld tester (Vetronics) wouldn't turn on. Pulled the battery pack out and removed the its cover. The old NiCD batteries had leaked - bad.

Prying the batteries out, one of the contacts had broken off. Thought about a repair for a few days. The results follow.

View attachment 322540
View attachment 322541
Removed the contact; flattened out the bent portion with a flat punch/hammer, and a flat blade screwdriver as an anvil.

View attachment 322543
Hobby battery pack sacrificed a contact spring.

View attachment 322546
Pressed trimmed contact and spring into place. Solder spring to contact? Future upgrade.

View attachment 322547
Voltage present? Old batteries from my R/C racing days. Weak but there...not bad for 27 year old batteries. New NiMH batteries on the way.

View attachment 322548
Success!

I got the "extra" key registered to the transponder. I didn't need to use the Vetronics. I looked through the Engine Immobilizer section of the FSM, specifically the registration (matching) keys to the transponder ECU. The FSM described the registration process with/without using the Vetronics.

Adding an additional key, you need an existing "Master" key. Steps are as follows.

It's similar to the '98-'00 LS400. This should work for '01-'03 LS430's.

 

[D60]

Delivered 25 fencing panels to a guy. Long story. These are 8x10' and built in my shop on a custom jig. Frame is 1.25" sq tube with 1x2" center post. Horse panel with 2x4" openings.

My non-profit's 24' deck over which I can borrow whenever I please:

Not that it matters, but that's "the guy" welding -- not me. Sorta helping him but it's become a no good deed scenario. I never learn.

 

[Creekside]

Had our first live grain bin entrapment for our fire department tonight. Fortunately the victim should make a full recovery and only had minor injuries. Had mutual aid from 4 neighboring departments. The individual’s total time trapped was right at 2.5 hours. We provided an on-scene landing zone and the helicopter sat down right next to the bin so he was on his was to higher level care within minutes. I’m gonna be sore from all the shoveling.

 

[clinebarger]

Kind of an interesting one today.....And it might help someone out there?

2018 F150, 157,xxx miles, 5.0L/10R80. The general repair garage that I do quite a bit of work for had replaced Timing Chains & all 4 Cam Phasers.....After completing the work the engine wouldn't accelerate past about 1/4 throttle without falling on it's face.

Short Term Fuel Trims would peg lean under acceleration & lean pop through the intake, To their credit.....They knew or at least guessed it was a fuel delivery problem because they replaced the High Pressure Fuel Pump & the Low Pressure Fuel Pump before throwing in the towel.

This engine has both PFI & DFI....Took me a minute to familiarize myself with the system as I haven't put my hands on a dual injection system yet....I still might have more questions than answers when it comes to in depth diagnosis.

The DI rail pressure would drop like a rock anytime the Volume Control Solenoid was opened over 10-12%.....Low as 16psi, VCS commanded 100%, Desired Rail Pressure near 2000psi, Low Pressure Side high as 90psi.

Verified the Low Pressure Side at the PFI rail that feeds the DI Pump (Tee'ed in).

No memory codes in the PCM & it passed a KOER self test, Probably could've kept pushing it & forced a Lean DTC or a P0087 Low Rail Pressure DTC....It would go so violently lean & pop I was concerned about causing engine damage!

Ran across a P0087 related bulletin on Google.....SSM 50089 about the DI Pump Feed Line being installed backwards, The feed has a one way check valve built into the line. Flipping it around & fixed the issue.

Alldata had no mention of the bulletin by the way.